Alternator Hookup to a All-In-One MPP Solar unit (12V, 800W, 120VAC)

[Wafflecone]

I love the idea of the MPP All-In-One unit for a small weekender camper van i plan to build. Keeps things much simpler! I plan to buy the 12V/800W unit, as i believe it will be enough for my needs. Realistically, i don't think i will get a solar panel installed right away, so i was wondering if -- just to get started -- i could use what most "VanLifers" use: a smart battery isolator, such as the one below;

Robot Check

The unit attaches to your vehicle's alternator to charge up your leisure battery(ies) while the vehicle engine is running. I plan to use a 100Ah Battleborn LiFePO4 battery.

Could one of these be hooked up to the MPP unit??? Has anyone done this? I think i know how to hook up everything else (12V fuse block, solar panel wires, AC in/out), just need info on this....

Thanks!

 

[ShiftLizard]

To the MPP itself, no. It has a max dc input of 40 (default) 60 (max) amps, and that is through the mppt charge controller, which does not sound healthy. lol If I were to do this in my own van, I would hook it up to the BB lifepo4. But, I also read the following on amazon questions. So I would try to do a little research to make sure I don't fry my MPP. Hope this helps you.

Question:
Could i run a seperate charge controller to the battery for a wind mppt controller as well

Answer:
Yes, but when doing this pls be sure that both charging sources (solar and wind) *must* have the same charging volt. The concern is that when you have a higher charging volt from this separate source than the inverter's own charging (solar) then you'll likely bring the battery to a level where it becomes unsafe for the inverters and could cause damage. please be very careful when doing this. see less

Maximum Solar TW
Seller · October 30, 2019

 

[ShiftLizard]

 

[Perrybuilds]

A safer method would be to run a vehicle powered inverter to convert to 120v to then power the charger on the mpp unit. You would want to size this inverter appropriately with your alternator and max charging input. Probably only a 800-1000 watt inverter max. Inverter to inverter charging isn't as efficient as a DC to DC charging method but has many benefits in it's simplicity, cost (wire sizing, hardware etc) and is a awesome option for charging lipo as you can use the already very functional lipo charger on the mpp unit.

 

[Wafflecone]

To the MPP itself, no. It has a max dc input of 40 (default) 60 (max) amps, and that is through the mppt charge controller, which does not sound healthy. lol If I were to do this in my own van, I would hook it up to the BB lifepo4. But, I also read the following on amazon questions. So I would try to do a little research to make sure I don't fry my MPP. Hope this helps you.

Question:
Could i run a seperate charge controller to the battery for a wind mppt controller as well

Answer:
Yes, but when doing this pls be sure that both charging sources (solar and wind) *must* have the same charging volt. The concern is that when you have a higher charging volt from this separate source than the inverter's own charging (solar) then you'll likely bring the battery to a level where it becomes unsafe for the inverters and could cause damage. please be very careful when doing this. see less

Maximum Solar TW
Seller · October 30, 2019

I guess I'm just confused as to whether MPP unit will recognize the charging from the alternator? If, in the future, I install solar - will the alternator charging mess with the MPP, if it's also being charged by the panels?

Not sure if I'm really making sense with my question.. hehe. I just want to charge the battery while I don't have panels, but still use the MPP for the inverter and grid/AC input. Then, when I do get solar, I want to have the alternator AND solar charge the batteries (for e.g.: alternator charging when driving to a camp site, solar charging while at the camp site)

 

[ytwytw]

I think AIO may not work for you, get this renogy DC-DC charger and an inverter should work

 

[gdpetti]

Couldn't he just wire the isolater to the battery thru a shunt? Same as the AIO is right? If the voltage is the same, it shouldn't matter? I got no experience, but thinking of doing the same with 24v after converting from 12v alternator... if I connect to a common shunt at same 24v, or in the above poster's case, 12v.. then it's ok? I'd be using the 24v AIO instead... .thus the need to convert the Amps from alternator from 12v to 24v first. Of course, now I have to understand the difference between isolated and nonisolated... protection issue? seems the nonisolated will deliver more current... I was told this from Victron as I asked about the two Orion units:

As you can see below, both circuits operate by switching at high frequencies, but it can be seen that the fundamental difference is that the non-isolated converter does not use a transformer and has one less output rectifier. Without the transformer, the overall size of the converter can be reduced, not only by the absence of a bulky component, but wasted heat from switching and copper losses is minimized. Also an isolated DC-DC converter is cleaner (less noise) passes from one to the other.

By the way, has anyone using these in a van/RV etc, had any problems with vibrations harming the unit? If they are designed for stationary setup, that would be an issue that those designed for such use, like Victron, wouldn't have, right?

 

[gdpetti]

Actually, I was asking about vibrations on the AIO... not the isolater... any issues with using them in a RV/campervan?

 

[thomascleary66]

I love the idea of the MPP All-In-One unit for a small weekender camper van i plan to build. Keeps things much simpler! I plan to buy the 12V/800W unit, as i believe it will be enough for my needs. .... I think i know how to hook up everything else (12V fuse block, solar panel wires, AC in/out), just need info on this....

How DO I hook up the 12v fuse block? like this: