diy solar

diy solar

Another RV thread

lol, nope that close to 1 ton territory.
Yup. I traded my half ton for a dually really quick on my last trailer that wasn't nearly as big.
What about that exterior kitchen / bunk combination?
Honestly been thinking about this. Just wasn't sure how well it would it do if it ever had the chance to get exposed to the rain. I think unlikely but I still think it's possible. I do like that it wouldn't be adding additional heat to the trailer though.
 
Trying to figure out where to mount the converter and battery in the trailer. The electrical box is under the ward / pantry towards the back of the trailer. Initially was thinking under the king bed for the batteries but that inverter (6000xp)is not going to fit. It is a 2018 keystone cougar 34tsb. Favorite part "half-ton" towable. What a joke at over 10k lbs.

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There's usually empty space under the cabinets or somewhere else where you can remove a panel and rework a bit to get it to fit, then replace the panel. I've seen others put under their sofa or even a false wall inside a closet/pantry. If setup right you don't really need to easily access, just need to access and the bigger the space the easer it'll be to work on.
 
batteries are usually hands off - I have them under my couch - and need tools to get to them.

- but the inverter I would recommend to having accessible.

Further the inverter produces heat - you want that to be in a bigger space to proper cooling.
 
batteries are usually hands off - I have them under my couch - and need tools to get to them.

- but the inverter I would recommend to having accessible.

Further the inverter produces heat - you want that to be in a bigger space to proper cooling.
True but you can easily put it in the back of a large pantry behind a panel then put slots and even fans on an area to draw air through it. idk how this inverter is but Victrons have the fan on the bottom then vents on top so you can easily put slots on the sides up top so itll suck air and flow through.
 
I would love to put the batteries under the bed. There is some room under the pantry where I can put stuff but there is not that much space. I could possibly do it in the back of a cabinet but I do worry lack of airflow. My old camper I had a smaller inverter under a cabinet and it got hot. I also don't want the batteries too far away either from the inverter since that is the biggest wire. I guess it is a bigger deal with 12V than 48V but still important.

I still need to figure out where I would put my 2nd AC cord in as well. I may add two inlets so I could do shore power or truck depending on access. Just need to make sure they are both not connected at the same time or get a longer extension cord.
 
I would love to put the batteries under the bed. There is some room under the pantry where I can put stuff but there is not that much space. I could possibly do it in the back of a cabinet but I do worry lack of airflow. My old camper I had a smaller inverter under a cabinet and it got hot. I also don't want the batteries too far away either from the inverter since that is the biggest wire. I guess it is a bigger deal with 12V than 48V but still important.

I still need to figure out where I would put my 2nd AC cord in as well. I may add two inlets so I could do shore power or truck depending on access. Just need to make sure they are both not connected at the same time or get a longer extension cord.

I'd suggest plugs on the side then you can keep the cables wherever. Might even be able to use both 50a and the same cord then just a 30a adapter on the side when using 30a. Then just wire it as 120v on the plug

Furrion Ltd 30a Square Inlet, Black F30INS-BS https://a.co/d/dBTAAZG
 
I was definitely going to keep them separate. The split phase and regular 120V outlet. 120V would go to a battery charger to power the RV and the split phase would just go to the AIO. The issue is where the power cord is right now is in the back corner of the RV next to the entertainment center and routes all the way around. I guess I could route through cabinets if necessary to make it work.

I would love to be able to charge the battery while driving using AC but also don't want a 50' extension cable hanging on the side of the trailer while traveling.

Thank you for the link. That is most likely what I am looking to use.
 
I was definitely going to keep them separate. The split phase and regular 120V outlet. 120V would go to a battery charger to power the RV and the split phase would just go to the AIO. The issue is where the power cord is right now is in the back corner of the RV next to the entertainment center and routes all the way around. I guess I could route through cabinets if necessary to make it work.

I would love to be able to charge the battery while driving using AC but also don't want a 50' extension cable hanging on the side of the trailer while traveling.

Thank you for the link. That is most likely what I am looking to use.

I still say put 2 of these 50a plugs and carry 1 50a cable. When on 240v use it just like normal. But on the 120V just wire up 1 side of the plug then use a 50-30 dogbone adapter. It'll send the 120v to both legs of the shore cable but not plugged in on the RV side so you're getting 120V. This way you save a bunch in not buying 2 shore cables AND its a lot easier to carry a 1ft dogbone adapter then a 2nd cable around. A simple sticker on the 120V 50a one will make sure you remember which is which. PLUS it lets you plug in the 240V into the 120V and only pull 120V from it so you can use the battery charger just incase the inverter has an issue charging.

On my old RV I only had 120V but still used the 50a. Also added a 15A plug for when at home to charge off a normal extension cord. Put them on the rear and backed up to the garage. when I had it on the side I forgot to unplug multiple times and had a ripped extension cord. This way its a quick disconnect :)

New RV its on the side before my rear axle with the Cerbogx screen to adjust input level outside. I keep all kinds of dogbones, adapters and extension cords in a bay now and the new RV is a powerhog so 15A doesn't cut it. I use like 150ft of 30a/240v generator extension cords from side of house with adapters.
 

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I still say put 2 of these 50a plugs and carry 1 50a cable. When on 240v use it just like normal. But on the 120V just wire up 1 side of the plug then use a 50-30 dogbone adapter. It'll send the 120v to both legs of the shore cable but not plugged in on the RV side so you're getting 120V. This way you save a bunch in not buying 2 shore cables AND its a lot easier to carry a 1ft dogbone adapter then a 2nd cable around. A simple sticker on the 120V 50a one will make sure you remember which is which. PLUS it lets you plug in the 240V into the 120V and only pull 120V from it so you can use the battery charger just incase the inverter has an issue charging.

On my old RV I only had 120V but still used the 50a. Also added a 15A plug for when at home to charge off a normal extension cord. Put them on the rear and backed up to the garage. when I had it on the side I forgot to unplug multiple times and had a ripped extension cord. This way its a quick disconnect :)

New RV its on the side before my rear axle with the Cerbogx screen to adjust input level outside. I keep all kinds of dogbones, adapters and extension cords in a bay now and the new RV is a powerhog so 15A doesn't cut it. I use like 150ft of 30a/240v generator extension cords from side of house with adapters.
I love it. I am actually thinking of using the 50A as a second split phase as well. I can use the same plug and send it to a battery charger that is a universal input (chargeverter) and if I just want to quickly charge the battery I could use that.


Only question is running it to my truck while driving since it would be in the back. Maybe put some hooks underneath the trailer to run the cable underneath while on the road. Would also allow me to run the generator out of the back of the truck in inclement weather.


Or I just run a second adapter input towards the front in conduit.
 
I love it. I am actually thinking of using the 50A as a second split phase as well. I can use the same plug and send it to a battery charger that is a universal input (chargeverter) and if I just want to quickly charge the battery I could use that.


Only question is running it to my truck while driving since it would be in the back. Maybe put some hooks underneath the trailer to run the cable underneath while on the road. Would also allow me to run the generator out of the back of the truck in inclement weather.


Or I just run a second adapter input towards the front in conduit.

I'd just run an extension cord to the front of the hitch as an input and zip tie it to the 7 pin wiring all across then cut the end off and wire directly into the input of the chargeverter. Get some dummy plug to cover the end when not in use. Then just have an extension cord from truck AC to the cord you just ran. Then if using the genny in bed you unplug from truck and plug into genny and all good
 
I'd just run an extension cord to the front of the hitch as an input and zip tie it to the 7 pin wiring all across then cut the end off and wire directly into the input of the chargeverter. Get some dummy plug to cover the end when not in use. Then just have an extension cord from truck AC to the cord you just ran. Then if using the genny in bed you unplug from truck and plug into genny and all good
That's a great idea. Now to just get things on order and the snow to melt to start working. A lot of work to do before camping.
 
Well I went and took some measurements and I don't think my initial solution is going to work where to mount the inverter. The inverter is 18×25.5×5.25 inches and max kitchen is 20 inches. The first photo shows the small kitchen. Not sure I want things in the kids bedroom too accessible either. I circled where the power is and where there is room.

**I keep trying to attach pictures but it is not working. Here is a link to pictures on a for sale one. Link
 
I'd put it right here. Easily accessible with slide open and even could could cut out the back of the cabinet on the side and put it back as a false wall so you can access part of it there too. Even have the back half accessible under that bunk.


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Do you think I could face mount it and recess part of it in the cabinet? I got to see how far the slide sticks out and then use the cabinets for batteries I guess. There is a little room underneath as well I just won't fit that much. I just would need to see if I have 5" that it would stick out or not. I just hate making permanent changes I can't undo if I sell the RV but nothing a picture couldn't cover up.

Put the batteries as best as I can underneath under the cabinet and go from there
 
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Do you think I could face mount it and recess part of it in the cabinet? I got to see how far the slide sticks out and then use the cabinets for batteries I guess. There is a little room underneath as well I just won't fit that much. I just would need to see if I have 5" that it would stick out or not. I just hate making permanent changes I can't undo if I sell the RV but nothing a picture couldn't cover up. Lol.
That would work great and easier to access. Its nice to have a lot of space then only use what you need and cover the rest up with a false wall. Plus if you move it you can always find a way to make it look like normal. Inside a cabinet can be redone a lot easier than a wall as it doesn't have to match. Could just put thin veneer or vinyl all inside it so it pops more.
 
That would work great and easier to access. Its nice to have a lot of space then only use what you need and cover the rest up with a false wall. Plus if you move it you can always find a way to make it look like normal. Inside a cabinet can be redone a lot easier than a wall as it doesn't have to match. Could just put thin veneer or vinyl all inside it so it pops more.
I think this is what I am going to try and do. I will run the other cable connector coming in under the cabinets in the back possibly in conduit or some moulding just to hide the wire from the kids and their stuff.
 
I have a 24V system - this voltage is slowly dying, not many new products are coming out.

These days I would go 48V. You didn't say what batteries you are using? And it is very likely in the long run that you are going to have more batteries then you have today.
I mean sure, but as long as your batteries are in pairs, when you finally feel like changing to 48v you just swap it out with what ever the 48v new thing is and just put your batteries in series. you already have over speced wire in place so keep on trucking
 
I mean sure, but as long as your batteries are in pairs, when you finally feel like changing to 48v you just swap it out with what ever the 48v new thing is and just put your batteries in series. you already have over speced wire in place so keep on trucking
true, I have 2x 24V 200AH batteries in parallel. Should my 24V AOI Inverter die someday I can just reconfigure to 48V and have oversized cable :)

Back when I got it - 24V was cheaper and I had different panels - with a lower voltage - so my thought was - that I get more charge since the MPPT is starting earlier.
 
I bought the EG4 6000XP this morning. Very excited for this. Now trying to figure out my second plug wiring with the chargverter to make it work with 120V and 240V. The wiring for the chargverter wants 120L-N on the same pins as 240V L-L. I would love to be able to use both with an adapter cable just not sure the easiest way to do it from the trailer port using a single traditional twist lock cord for both. Normally the 50A plug to 30A trailer adapter just shorts the two hots together for 120V.

I wonder if I just use the new plug for 120V instead and then use the inverter for charging 240V for split phase only.
 
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