Another RV thread

[justinm001]

Do you think I could face mount it and recess part of it in the cabinet? I got to see how far the slide sticks out and then use the cabinets for batteries I guess. There is a little room underneath as well I just won't fit that much. I just would need to see if I have 5" that it would stick out or not. I just hate making permanent changes I can't undo if I sell the RV but nothing a picture couldn't cover up. Lol.

That would work great and easier to access. Its nice to have a lot of space then only use what you need and cover the rest up with a false wall. Plus if you move it you can always find a way to make it look like normal. Inside a cabinet can be redone a lot easier than a wall as it doesn't have to match. Could just put thin veneer or vinyl all inside it so it pops more.

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

That would work great and easier to access. Its nice to have a lot of space then only use what you need and cover the rest up with a false wall. Plus if you move it you can always find a way to make it look like normal. Inside a cabinet can be redone a lot easier than a wall as it doesn't have to match. Could just put thin veneer or vinyl all inside it so it pops more.

I think this is what I am going to try and do. I will run the other cable connector coming in under the cabinets in the back possibly in conduit or some moulding just to hide the wire from the kids and their stuff.

 

[kchortu]

I have a 24V system - this voltage is slowly dying, not many new products are coming out.

These days I would go 48V. You didn't say what batteries you are using? And it is very likely in the long run that you are going to have more batteries then you have today.

I mean sure, but as long as your batteries are in pairs, when you finally feel like changing to 48v you just swap it out with what ever the 48v new thing is and just put your batteries in series. you already have over speced wire in place so keep on trucking

 

[eXodus]

I mean sure, but as long as your batteries are in pairs, when you finally feel like changing to 48v you just swap it out with what ever the 48v new thing is and just put your batteries in series. you already have over speced wire in place so keep on trucking

true, I have 2x 24V 200AH batteries in parallel. Should my 24V AOI Inverter die someday I can just reconfigure to 48V and have oversized cable

Back when I got it - 24V was cheaper and I had different panels - with a lower voltage - so my thought was - that I get more charge since the MPPT is starting earlier.

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

I bought the EG4 6000XP this morning. Very excited for this. Now trying to figure out my second plug wiring with the chargverter to make it work with 120V and 240V. The wiring for the chargverter wants 120L-N on the same pins as 240V L-L. I would love to be able to use both with an adapter cable just not sure the easiest way to do it from the trailer port using a single traditional twist lock cord for both. Normally the 50A plug to 30A trailer adapter just shorts the two hots together for 120V.

I wonder if I just use the new plug for 120V instead and then use the inverter for charging 240V for split phase only.

 

[eXodus]

I wonder if I just use the new plug for 120V instead and then use the inverter for charging 240V for split phase only.

I use two different cables and inlets

50A 240V goes to 6000XP (115A max charger set to 50A)
30A 120V goes to the Chargverter. (100A max Charger set to 50A)

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

I use two different cables and inlets

50A 240V goes to 6000XP (115A max charger set to 50A)
30A 120V goes to the Chargverter. (100A max Charger set to 50A)

Your design is making more and more sense now that I keep copying it further.

I do have another 48V power supply that is 10A. That is a .1c charge rate. I am guessing I still want a chargverter to charge quickly if needed.

 

[eXodus]

Your design is making more and more sense now that I keep copying it further.

I do have another 48V power supply that is 10A. That is a .1c charge rate. I am guessing I still want a chargverter to charge quickly if needed.

Thanks,

I like my designs simple, with off the shelf parts, that is not always the most efficient, or cheapest.

But I gives me redundancy and the ability to expand or repair with basic tools and more of the shelf components

 

[eXodus]

I am guessing I still want a chargverter to charge quickly if needed.

If you do are hooked up to the grid for a long time - 10A at 48V

10A * 48V *24H = 11.5kWh a day, so it depends how much are you using. Probably not enough with both A/C blasting when you are sitting in the shade.

While my Chargeverter setting at 50A

50A * 48V * 24H = 57.6 kWh / day

Completely different story if you are on generator and just want to fill up the batteries as fast as you can. When I run my 5500W Onan I dial the charger all the way up.

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

If you do are hooked up to the grid for a long time - 10A at 48V

10A * 48V *24H = 11.5kWh a day, so it depends how much are you using. Probably not enough with both A/C blasting when you are sitting in the shade.

While my Chargeverter setting at 50A

50A * 48V * 24H = 57.6 kWh / day

Completely different story if you are on generator and just want to fill up the batteries as fast as you can. When I run my 5500W Onan I dial the charger all the way up.

Well that's my main reason for the chargverter. I would want to dial it up for our short generator hours we are allowed where I mainly stay. Most have a 2 hours in the morning and 2 or 3 in the evening. Problem is if you miss one of those, especially in the evening it can make getting through the night tougher especially on hot days.

Just means I probably want the chargverter fairly accessible for ease of adjustment. Probably will still want to bring my two smaller generators and parallel them to maximize the output.

Also does anyone know the difference between V1 chargverter and V2?

 

[kchortu]

I am planning on doing a 24 v system to use a truck cab 24v mini split ... and my cpap is 24v. Yes i know there are step down converters but I can also put a high output alternator and a victorn 12|24 battery charger in it to refill while moving. As long as big rigs need the 24v to turnover the engine there will be 24v mobile living devices. At least that's my hope

 

[eXodus]

Most have a 2 hours in the morning and 2 or 3 in the evening

The chargverter puts 5kWh per hour in your battery system - if your generator can supply it.
The 6000XP puts almost 6kWh per hour in the batteries when dialed up to max.

I only have 10kWH of batteries - that usually last my one A/C unit multiple nights. (2-3k WH / night) Not sure where you camp in the summer - but even here in humid Florida the A/C use during night is not that much.

If you A/C is drawing too much - get a new inverter based one.

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[mmmmmdonuts]

Has anyone actually measured the EG4 6000xp. I did some preliminary measurements in the trailer today and I might have a tougher time fitting it somewhere than I thought. Is it truly 25.5"x18"x5.25" as it says on the spec sheet?

I seem to be very close in one or two of the dimensions quite a bit where I would put it. Just wanted to confirm.

As much as I hate to say it I may have to put it in the kids bedroom. Most free space not on a wall slide.

Are there ways to lock things out so the kids couldn't play with anything?

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

Well I think I found where I want to put the inverter. I have a large area behind the TV where it should easily mount. I am wondering if I have room to put the batteries next to the fireplace in the back. Two on each side.

The only thing I don't like is this would all be on a slide. The fridge and other stuff is already on this slide so I guess I would just use some sjoow wire to run under the slide and attach it to the other wire already on the slide hanger. Might still sleeve the wire as well with wire loom.

Thoughts? Any thoughts on an outdoor box with this stuff off the back of the trailer in a truck toolbox or something

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

Removed the fireplace and there is room to put the inverter either there behind the fireplace or remove the shelf above the TV and put the converter there.
Behind the fireplace which has its advantages of everything being hidden but I don't know if I would need more ventilation or not. There is probably a 3" or 4" hole where wires run to behind the fireplace to the fridge side. There is a vent behind the fridge to the outside since it's an absorption fridge. The fireplace comes out with 6 screws if I needed access to anything. My hope is the wifi module of the 6000xp could show everything that is needed.

The big post in the middle does not help either where the TV mounts since the converter does not fit entirely on side or the other.

I plan on the battery and chargverter being down below behind where the fireplace is unless there is a compelling reason not too.

 

[chrisski]

Removed the fireplace and there is room to put the inverter either there behind the fireplace or remove the shelf above the TV and put the converter there.

This is the point where I figure out if the install is worth where its going inside.

I agree with ventilation. It can be loud. I have not found a way I want to spend my money and time on to build it. I just don't have the specifics with part #'s of how to do it. Also, this noise has to be somethign the guests and family cna deal with.

I have an AC to DC converter, around 900 watts charging to the battery, and that converter does use a lotof energy. Its not something I'd like to leave on in an enclosed area if it was in constant use. Of course it is in an enclosed area, and even in the coldest days he fan is loud enough to be heard through the wall. Right now the fan is the one on the converter. What I have trouble doing is finding a fan to install on the cabinet side, with trim, that will turn on when I have the converter on. Luckily, my solar has been enough for my batteries that I only turn it on once a year.

I have my 3000 watt SAMLEX inverter in the pass through RV storage. Whenever I run a 400 watt load, the invert fan will turn on at some point. Its loud enough to be heard inside the RV from pass through storage. If the inverter was installed inside the RV cabin, the fan would activate more, and be louder.

=================

Noise from the inverter is never really an issue because I rarely have the inverter with enough wattage t put the fan on. I do use it for Air Conditioning but at that point the air conditioner is so loud I can't hear the inverter.

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

In my previous RV I had the inverter installed under the kitchen sink area raised up on a platform. This was mainly invented unless the cabinet door was open (rare). You could here the fans but over the noise of everything else it was never an issue.

I never had an issue and maybe it was so oversized for the loads it didn't matter. I wonder if that would be the case here although I do have two ACs on this trailer.

 

[outsider]

I still need to figure out how to do the solar. 5 panels makes it a little awkward but I could possibly get to 6 if needed. I worry about overall space on the roof. Initially I thought series but I do tend to park under trees so maybe series parallel combination or full parallel.

Check the voltage the MPPT will need. Depending on the panels, if you're charging 48 V batteries a full parallel connection might be too little voltage without a converter. This would not be a concern for a 12 V system.