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At what level should I let lead acid battery discharge before shutting down inverter?

ak1ca

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Nov 10, 2022
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Hello!, few days ago I bought my first inverter and 12v 100ah lead acid battery for my little server room. Yesterday electricity went off and was time to test how many h can battery hold on 230watts load. I was reading that battery should not go under 50%/12.2v, so after 1:15h battery level went to 12.2 so I powered off inverter. After powering inverter off battery voltage went to 12.56v instantly, does this depends on load? (230w), and I was able to have more run time on battery ? if so under load at what voltage level should I turn off inverter?
Thanks!
 
Only way to know is if you measure columb flow.
You need a shunt meter.
You could also get a hydrometer and measure the sg to determine charge.
Volts vary based on load, and battery condition. I would error on the safe side if I wanted to keep the battery long.
And at 50%, the battery needs to be recharged asap... not just disconnected from load.
 
first answer is always - refer to manufactures data sheet.

typical recommendations is to not discharge below 50% for max battery life. In that case that's usually 12.0v. FLA is "saggy" under load so yes as soon as you disconnect load you'll note what may look like significant recovery.

remember most FLA AH ratings are 20hr discharge rates or .1C so for your 100ah battery thats a 10a load nominal.
 
Only way to know is if you measure columb flow.
You need a shunt meter.
You could also get a hydrometer and measure the sg to determine charge.
Volts vary based on load, and battery condition. I would error on the safe side if I wanted to keep the battery long.
And at 50%, the battery needs to be recharged asap... not just disconnected from load.
Battery is new. So if I buy another 100ah battery, 200ah battery will last 3h on 230w load ?
 
100Ah should just about handle 3 hours at 230W from the battery, and stay above 50%
 
100Ah should just about handle 3 hours at 230W from the battery, and stay above 50%
I did shut it off after 1:15min cuz battery voltage went to 12.2v, but I assume I can go lower that that cuz of the load right?
sorry if I ask stupid question, this is my first time building this.
 
Hello!, few days ago I bought my first inverter and 12v 100ah lead acid battery for my little server room. Yesterday electricity went off and was time to test how many h can battery hold on 230watts load. I was reading that battery should not go under 50%/12.2v, so after 1:15h battery level went to 12.2 so I powered off inverter.
Well done with your first system. You did the right thing being conservative to start with, as the chance of doing any damage is very unlikely.

When you see a chart which estimates the state of charge (SOC) of a lead acid battery from its voltage - this is usually based on a resting voltage, i.e. no load, no charging. Which is of course not particularly helpful as we mostly want to know the SOC while the battery is being used.

Obviously as a battery is discharged it gradually loses voltage.

However when a load is applied to a lead acid battery they also immediately step down in voltage. How much the voltage steps down depends on the size of the load applied and the condition of the battery. Remove the load and the voltage recovers, as you have noted.

Hence, using voltage as a guide to SOC while under load is misleading, and given batteries in service tend to either be under load or being charged, then the voltage isn't more than a very general guide as to what their state of charge is. Of course there are still lower voltage limits we should be wary of not going below even when load is applied.

As Supervstech says, the most convenient way to get a decently accurate picture of the SOC while in use is to have a coulomb meter / shunt which measures the voltage and the charge flowing from or into the battery.

Given the recovered "resting" voltage was 12.5+ V, then I'd say you ceased your test well before they had reached 50% SOC.

It's not a bad thing to be conservative about how much you discharge lead acid. The deeper you discharge them, the fewer cycles you can expect to get from them over their useful life. If the battery is going to be performing only occasional discharges because it's for outage backup, then a deeper discharge is fine as they might only be required to do this a few dozen times. But they need to be recharged very soon afterwards.

A 12 V battery with 100 Ah of capacity has a nominal energy capacity of 12 V x 100 Ah = 1200 Wh or 1.2 kWh

However you should consider only a proportion of that capacity as being effectively useable. Discharging the full 1200 Wh would shorten its useable life significantly.

So if you decide you do not wish to discharge the battery lower than 50% state of charge (SOC) then you can discharge no more than half of that 1200 Wh, i.e. 600 Wh (assuming it is fully charged to begin with).

On the AC load side you have a load of 230 watts. The inverter itself will also be consuming energy and there are losses involved when converting DC to AC power. How much those losses are varies but let's assume you need to add another 15% to allow for that (it might be less, or more, it's just to illustrate the example).

So let's call the load 230 W + 15% for the losses, which is about 265 W in total.

600 Wh / 265 W = about 2.25 hours, 2 hours 15 minutes.

Anyway, the above is just an example to illustrate how to think about how long you can reasonable power loads. It also assumes of course that your measurement of load is accurate too (it can be measured with a plug in power meter).

Battery University is a good reference to learn about many things to do with batteries, and they have chapter on lead acid:

Good luck with it.
 
Well done with your first system. You did the right thing being conservative to start with, as the chance of doing any damage is very unlikely.

When you see a chart which estimates the state of charge (SOC) of a lead acid battery from its voltage - this is usually based on a resting voltage, i.e. no load, no charging. Which is of course not particularly helpful as we mostly want to know the SOC while the battery is being used.

Obviously as a battery is discharged it gradually loses voltage.

However when a load is applied to a lead acid battery they also immediately step down in voltage. How much the voltage steps down depends on the size of the load applied and the condition of the battery. Remove the load and the voltage recovers, as you have noted.

Hence, using voltage as a guide to SOC while under load is misleading, and given batteries in service tend to either be under load or being charged, then the voltage isn't more than a very general guide as to what their state of charge is. Of course there are still lower voltage limits we should be wary of not going below even when load is applied.

As Supervstech says, the most convenient way to get a decently accurate picture of the SOC while in use is to have a coulomb meter / shunt which measures the voltage and the charge flowing from or into the battery.

Given the recovered "resting" voltage was 12.5+ V, then I'd say you ceased your test well before they had reached 50% SOC.

It's not a bad thing to be conservative about how much you discharge lead acid. The deeper you discharge them, the fewer cycles you can expect to get from them over their useful life. If the battery is going to be performing only occasional discharges because it's for outage backup, then a deeper discharge is fine as they might only be required to do this a few dozen times. But they need to be recharged very soon afterwards.

A 12 V battery with 100 Ah of capacity has a nominal energy capacity of 12 V x 100 Ah = 1200 Wh or 1.2 kWh

However you should consider only a proportion of that capacity as being effectively useable. Discharging the full 1200 Wh would shorten its useable life significantly.

So if you decide you do not wish to discharge the battery lower than 50% state of charge (SOC) then you can discharge no more than half of that 1200 Wh, i.e. 600 Wh (assuming it is fully charged to begin with).

On the AC load side you have a load of 230 watts. The inverter itself will also be consuming energy and there are losses involved when converting DC to AC power. How much those losses are varies but let's assume you need to add another 15% to allow for that (it might be less, or more, it's just to illustrate the example).

So let's call the load 230 W + 15% for the losses, which is about 265 W in total.

600 Wh / 265 W = about 2.25 hours, 2 hours 15 minutes.

Anyway, the above is just an example to illustrate how to think about how long you can reasonable power loads. It also assumes of course that your measurement of load is accurate too (it can be measured with a plug in power meter).

Battery University is a good reference to learn about many things to do with batteries, and they have chapter on lead acid:

Good luck with it.
First of all thank you for your time writing it appreciate it
This answer all of my questions. I do have one more question, do I need to add some kind protection like dc braker or something similar to that between battery and inverter ?
 
This answer all of my questions. I do have one more question, do I need to add some kind protection like dc braker or something similar to that between battery and inverter ?
At the very minimum you should have an appropriately rated fuse for protection in case of a short circuit or other anomaly causing a severe overload and which can cause the cables and connections to get hot, melt the insulation or even cause a fire.

The fuse should be the weakest link in the chain. It needs to be able to blow before anything else does.

It's usually also a good idea to have a DC disconnect of some kind so that you can quickly and safely shut down the supply of energy from the battery if ever needed.

There are DC breakers which can provide both the shut down switching and circuit overload protection. Good ones are not cheap but I'll leave it to others to make suggestions for a 12 V system.

Do not think you can use an AC breaker for a DC circuit. Breaking DC current is way harder to do than AC, which is why they are more expensive.
 
Since you are new, it might be worth while looking through the resources section of the forum, see the link at the top. There is a beginners' section.

Here is one link for information about DC fusing:
 
Hello!, few days ago I bought my first inverter and 12v 100ah lead acid battery for my little server room. Yesterday electricity went off and was time to test how many h can battery hold on 230watts load.

We can napkin-calc it, although you didn't specify what type of lead acid (flooded / agm?). There is a little thing called Peukert - the larger the current you draw, the faster the voltage drops.

Example - had you chosen to fire up with only a 10ah little agm, it would last mere seconds with massive voltage drop, even though you only drew 1ah out of it before the inverter's lvd kicked in (assuming 10.7v lvd)

Napkin time - 230w / 10v (fudge factor instead of using 12v) = 23a. That's about 0.25C for your 100ah batt, which would be ok (but not great) for an agm without suffering an immediate voltage drop due to Peukert.

You might get roughtly 4 hours on paper out of it before hitting the 10.7v backstop. (zero capacity - don't go further). Real world, much less. :)

But yes, if you've got the ability to increase your total battery capacity, that would mean less Peukert - less voltage drop under load. Assuming that is, that you have the ability to *really* charge them to full, and maintain them properly in parallel. (Like charging each individually before you place them into final service.)

At some point though, you may want to consider LFP, but thought this might be fun to chew on.

Long way of saying - try to go for two hours. You may reach about 12.0v under load. This is assuming the battery is *new*, and has been fully charged properly. Used, flooded, etc and YMMV.
 
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We can napkin-calc it, although you didn't specify what type of lead acid (flooded / agm?). There is a little thing called Peukert - the larger the current you draw, the faster the voltage drops.

Example - had you chosen to fire up with only a 10ah little agm, it would last mere seconds with massive voltage drop, even though you only drew 1ah out of it before the inverter's lvd kicked in (assuming 10.7v lvd)

Napkin time - 230w / 10v (fudge factor instead of using 12v) = 23a. That's about 0.25C for your 100ah batt, which would be ok (but not great) for an agm without suffering an immediate voltage drop due to Peukert.

You might get roughtly 4 hours on paper out of it before hitting the 10.7v backstop. (zero capacity - don't go further). Real world, much less. :)

But yes, if you've got the ability to increase your total battery capacity, that would mean less Peukert - less voltage drop under load. Assuming that is, that you have the ability to *really* charge them to full, and maintain them properly in parallel. (Like charging each individually before you place them into final service.)

At some point though, you may want to consider LFP, but thought this might be fun to chew on.

Long way of saying - try to go for two hours. You may reach about 12.0v under load. This is assuming the battery is *new*, and has been fully charged properly. Used, flooded, etc and YMMV.
Not sure what type of lead acid is this.
Thank you for your reply I really appreciate it. I was planing to get another 100ah battery. So if I understanded correctly. I should not go under 10.7v underload right?, Also what type of fuse should I use on battery. How do I calculate that?
 

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Not sure what type of lead acid is this.
Thank you for your reply I really appreciate it. I was planing to get another 100ah battery. So if I understanded correctly. I should not go under 10.7v underload right?, Also what type of fuse should I use on battery. How do I calculate that?
I don’t think anyone will give you a recommendation because there are to many unknowns in your systems.

They could tell you and if you used it then the fuse could be too high and burn up your wires or worse. It could be too low and pop all the time.

Read the information these folks sent you.

It will go a long way in enabling you to understand FLA and others.

This way after you have read it you will be able to discern what is needed or at least have a better idea.
 
So I do have simple setup, 1200va hybrid inverter, 12v 100ah battery, 230w load no fuse, dc braker just simple connected. How do I determent what type of fuse, dc breaker I need?
thanks.
 
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That's a conventional (recycled lead) AGM. Make note of the initial inrush current limitation. I can't see it, but I'll bet it is either 0.25 to 0.3C. (25 to 30a) "C" is the rated capacity - 100ah in this case.

It is best not to go beyond 10.7v to 11.7v under load - although these two voltages are common for most inverters. But that is a last-ditch effort to prevent the battery to be drawn to zero capacity. (lower than 10.7v is beyond zero percent, and is mere immediate chemical damage).

Ideally, one should also purchase a charger large enough not to tickle them, but to actually charge. That means staying under the 0.25C limit (or whatever is printed on the case), but not going lower than about 0.1C for deep discharges, as below 0.1C, instead of a charger, your device is now a "trickler" - which is only used when the battery is actually full to near-full in the first place.
 
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