Basic setup but no need for more ATM

[RVLiFe]

I actually purchased an inverter with a built-in transfer switch and wired one circuit/line of the RV breaker panel to it. That line runs the refrigerator, an outlet on the counter(coffee machine/toaster) the TV and a couple of outlets near my couch. That’s all I need for power. No need to power every outlet in the RV. Start with your breaker panel and find out what is running off each line. You may find something similar that will work for you.

 

[Scycle]

That sounds like a good idea. Would I need a separate transfer switch in order to do between inverter or shore power for that one line? In other words the inverter would power one line and shore power would supply both lines as it currently does. I'm thinking about an inverter charger to solve the non-lithium converter issue. Would there be a problem when I add solar and the solar charger and inverter charger both going to the batteries? Concerning the bus bars, I found the Victron Lynx Power-in distribution block that you can add the hardware to fuse it, bus bars and fuses in one.

 

[KellyDood]

As you say, it's about how much power you use. I'm constantly amazed at how many people with vans talk about their electric hot water heaters, microwaves, induction cookers and so on and then try to figure out how to get 2kw of panels and 30 KWh of batteries packed in. I live in my van for 3 months a year most years, and until last year had 200 watts of panels and a 150 ah battery. Finally upgraded to 400 watts of panels and a 280 ah lithium, living large now! I've only ever run short of power a handful of times when I was camped at one site for a week and it was cloudy and rainy all week, not common in good places to spend the winter.

Yes, the setup I'm doing for my house is primarily for power-fail scenarios and I do not plan on running furnace, water heater, Air Conditioner, washer/dryer etc. It doesn't take much propane to cook and heat a small space in (I've done it before). I was at a box store yesterday and saw 10-pound bags of rice cheap but it takes at least 20 minutes to cook so I skipped it- rather use minute rice and save cooking energy.

 

[RVLiFe]

That sounds like a good idea. Would I need a separate transfer switch in order to do between inverter or shore power for that one line? In other words the inverter would power one line and shore power would supply both lines as it currently does. I'm thinking about an inverter charger to solve the non-lithium converter issue. Would there be a problem when I add solar and the solar charger and inverter charger both going to the batteries? Concerning the bus bars, I found the Victron Lynx Power-in distribution block that you can add the hardware to fuse it, bus bars and fuses in one.

Yes separate transfer switch or one built in would be recommended. No problem having multiple charge sources connected to the battery but most people prefer using a bus bar. Victron Lynx is a great option if you can afford it. I didn’t feel I needed it for only a 12V system.

 

[Scycle]

The Lynx power-in block is much less than the one with the circuit board with blown fuse LED's, so my thought was comparing cost of quality bus bars, plus separate fuses would almost equal that. Something I saw on allaboutrv video. So if the inverter charger has a transfer switch, then it would recognize power from shore, gen, battery and switch accordingly-correct? I realize there would only be enough inverter power for one line on the RV panel, but still unclear on that. If I removed one incoming shore line from rv panel and connected to the inverter then run inverter out back to panel, not sure what would happen?

 

[RVLiFe]

The Lynx power-in block is much less than the one with the circuit board with blown fuse LED's, so my thought was comparing cost of quality bus bars, plus separate fuses would almost equal that. Something I saw on allaboutrv video. So if the inverter charger has a transfer switch, then it would recognize power from shore, gen, battery and switch accordingly-correct? I realize there would only be enough inverter power for one line on the RV panel, but still unclear on that. If I removed one incoming shore line from rv panel and connected to the inverter then run inverter out back to panel, not sure what would happen?

Yes, you are correct in that If the inverter charger has a transfer switch, then it will recognize power from shore, gen, battery and switch accordingly. You wouldn't remove one of the incoming shore lines. Here is a diagram on how mine is wired. You would need to run two lines from the inverter back to the RV panel. One would be inverter input(RV panel output from one circuit) and the other line would go into a junction box and feed your existing circuit. This way, the inverter can tell if there is shore power coming in. If so, it bypasses the inverter and grounds to the RV shore source and if there isn't shore power then it switches over to battery power and grounds internally and to your RV's chassis. At least that is how mine works. Many are different and depending on what you buy, you may be able to wire it directly to shore power to provide power to the entire RV. Mine is only 1500 Watts so I kept it simple but I suppose I could have used multiple circuits if I would have put in another breaker panel but I don't feel it's necessary for my needs. My one circuit feeds 5 electrical outlets in the RV(not including fridge) and I certainly don't need more than that. Their wiring diagram has mislabeled wires. You don't need 12/3 wires, instead it's only 12/2. Again, my RV was wired perfectly in that one circuit powers my fridge, countertop receptacle, TV, and three additional outlets. If I needed electric in the bedroom I'd have to figure something else out but I have USB ports in there that take care of any charging needs.

 

[Scycle]

Do you have 30A shore power? I have 50A. I apologize for being thick, I have wired home AC power and mechanically inclined with practical experience, but missing something. I see the two yellow 12/2 romex coming from your inverter each will have gnd, neutral, hot. I have 4 wires coming in from shore cable gnd, neutral and (2) 120v each going to a 50A breaker. I install a junction box and run the inverter output into that then it gets fuzzy, not sure what you mean by "feed your existing circuit". The other 12/2 wire is inverter input (RV panel output from one circuit) is unclear as well.

 

[RVLiFe]

Do you have 30A shore power? I have 50A. I apologize for being thick, I have wired home AC power and mechanically inclined with practical experience, but missing something. I see the two yellow 12/2 romex coming from your inverter each will have gnd, neutral, hot. I have 4 wires coming in from shore cable gnd, neutral and (2) 120v each going to a 50A breaker. I install a junction box and run the inverter output into that then it gets fuzzy, not sure what you mean by "feed your existing circuit". The other 12/2 wire is inverter input (RV panel output from one circuit) is unclear as well.

I have 50A shore power as well. Where I believe you are getting confused is in your thinking that you have to feed the inverter off your 50A shore power. You don’t. I am only feeding the inverter off of one of the 15A circuits at the RV panel. If your looking to supply power to one leg of your RV’s 50A service, then that is completely different. I can’t help you there, I know a lot of RVrs do that. I’m only supplying power to one 15A breaker circuit that is in the RVs panel.

 

[Scycle]

Ah! makes sense now. Not sure what I'm going to do, it depends on my needs and what's involved. Thanks