Can someone review my 24v setup?

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Hello,

I'm a beginner working out the details of a 24V system for a bus I'm converting to an RV. At this point, I think I've got things figured out for the most part. I really want to ensure my wiring schematic looks good and takes everything into account, most especially safety. Here's the list of primary components I have to work with:

24V System
-(3) BougeRV 200W 16BB 24V Panels - https://a.co/d/0igli4zc
-(1) PowMr 60A MPPT PRO Controller(Max PV in.105V@24V) - https://a.co/d/0gTZYH3B
-(1) SunHooPower 24V 185Ah LiFePO4 Battery - https://a.co/d/05pye5fo (planning on buying another one of these next year)
-(1) 3000W 24V Inverter - https://a.co/d/0e1xFkJQ

I've been doing quite a bit of digging for good information. I have a pretty good idea what sizes I need to connect each component, until I get to the battery->alternator connection. I'm trying my best to follow NEC Codes and Regulations, but I don't have a thorough enough understanding of the difference between 12v and 24v systems, other than 24v is generally safer to run due to lower current and heat

My expected continuous usage is looking to be between 1200w-1800w. I have power tools I'd like to use, so that value could possibly get closer to 3000W.
Refrigerator - ~400W
A/C Unit - ~800W
Computer - ~180-220W
TV - ~60W
Charging devices - ~20-50W

With these, it looks like I'll sit around the halfway mark of that 3000W, approx. 1460-1530. This leaves me a good 1500W of room to work with for battery chargers for tools and other tools that utilize AC power. Worst case scenario, I can cut off the A/C while I work with tools, offering a window of about 2300W to work with. I plan on adding some devices a little later on, like an RO system and water pumps(may go with independent solar pumps).

Here's the spec sheet for the BougeRv 200W 16BB N-Type TOPCon

Maximum Power (W)	200±3% W
Open Circuit Voltage Voc (V)	36.4V±5%
Max Power Voltage Vmp (V)	31.7V±5%
Max Power Current Imp (A)	6.3A±5%
Short Circuit Current Isc (A)	6.6A±5%
Solar Cells Efficiency	25%
Power Life	30 Years

Specs for PowMr 60A MPPT PRO Controller
Rated Battery Current - 60A
System Voltage - 12/24/36/48V Auto
Max. Input Power for 24V - 1440W 37V-105V
Max PV Open Circuit Voltage- 160Vdc
Max. Capacitive load capacity-10000uF
Self Consumption - 0.7-1.2W
Conversion Efficiency - </= 98%
MPPT tracking efficiency - >99%
Temp Compensation - -3mV/degrees C/2V(default)

Specs for SunHooPower 24V 185Ah LiFePO4 Battery
Capacity - 4736Wh
Nom. Voltage - 25.6V
Current Capacity - 185 Ah
BMS - 200A
Max Load - 5120W
Rec. Current Charge- 37A (0.2C)
Terminals - M8 - 9/16"
(according to support
Max. Voltage Drop - 4.5V
22V after voltage drop

Specs for 3000W 24V Inverter
Rated Input Voltage - DC24V
Nominal Input Voltage - DC 19.5-31.6V
Nominal Output Voltage- AC 115+/-10% V
Rated resistive load - </= 3000W
Peak Power - 6000W
Rated Inductive load- </= 1500W
4xAC provide maximum 800W power output
1000W-3000W, the high-power output terminal must be used as the output link(will probably hook the AC Unit to this)


Wire Sizing:
PV -> PV - 18AWG
PV -> Controller - 10AWG(30') (The bus will be in the shade, with the panels out in the sun)
Controller -> Battery- 4AWG(2')
Battery -> Inverter - I decided on 2AWG. I'll have two sections of 5.9" cables for the positive with a 175A breaker. At 1', the voltage drop is approx. 1.43%. 1AWG wire is almost impossible to find on Amazon and 1/0 was getting expensive very fast.

I'm currently trying to sort out how to string together any connections that might help with safety or increase efficiency. I want to be absolutely sure I'm hooking the battery up to the inverter correctly. I've seen examples where there are two cables hooked up to each terminal of the inverter, but where the other end of those cables connected to, I'm lost(this was proposed as the 'correct' way to hook up the inverter, so I'm a little lost there.). I also want to ensure that I have everything grounded properly and may double down on lightning protection.


As far as the components of the system go, I'm worried about using the PowMr Controller and that specific inverter, as they have a handful of one-off reviews labeling them as garbage products. I'm not sure how much of this has to do with a lack of experience hooking them up or if they're actually defective. I could see where things could go sideways if any part of the system thinks it's running 12v, as opposed to 24v, or connecting components in the wrong order(which I've seen in a lot of videos on Youtube.) I still have some time to return those components in the case that any of you might have had bad experiences with them and can confirm what the lower rated reviews are saying on Amazon.

Here's my choppy, basic blueprint for things so far. Some obvious points are, I'm trying to figure out the best solution for handling the negatives, hence the complete lack of grounding. The wiring is very basic at the moment until I can sort out the finer points of the various connections. Any and all insight here will be greatly appreciated.



Thanks in advance for taking the time to read through all this and any help provided. Looking forward to getting everything sorted out!

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Going through everything and double checking the rating of the components, I realized the combined input voltage is sitting higher than the Max input voltage of the charge controller(105V). With fluctuations in temperature, as it gets cold, I see this being a problem. I think I'm going to go ahead and return the PowMr controller and go with a Victron 60|150. I'll be paying 3x as much, but it's the only controller that I'm aware of that can handle the voltage.

I'm wondering if I can do one series and one parallel connection between the 3 panels or if that's starting to get sloppy. Not even sure if that's a possibility or how to go about doing it. If this is possible, someone please let me know. I feel like that would mess with the whole array though. Alternatively, I could keep two of the panels going into one PowMr and then the third by itself on a separate PowMr controller. Not sure what to do as far was wiring goes coming out of the two different controllers. If I link the connections on a bus bar, would that retain the same electrical ratings for the system if I have each controller set to charge the battery at 37A? I'd like to think so, but I'm not well versed in this stuff by any means.

If a combination of series and parallel connections is possible, I'd only have to update the wire and breaker size for PV > Controller. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Going through everything and double checking the rating of the components, I realized the combined input voltage is sitting higher than the Max input voltage of the charge controller(105V). With fluctuations in temperature, as it gets cold, I see this being a problem. I think I'm going to go ahead and return the PowMr controller and go with a Victron 60|150. I'll be paying 3x as much, but it's the only controller that I'm aware of that can handle the voltage.

I'm wondering if I can do one series and one parallel connection between the 3 panels or if that's starting to get sloppy. Not even sure if that's a possibility or how to go about doing it. If this is possible, someone please let me know. I feel like that would mess with the whole array though. Alternatively, I could keep two of the panels going into one PowMr and then the third by itself on a separate PowMr controller. Not sure what to do as far was wiring goes coming out of the two different controllers. If I link the connections on a bus bar, would that retain the same electrical ratings for the system if I have each controller set to charge the battery at 37A? I'd like to think so, but I'm not well versed in this stuff by any means.

If a combination of series and parallel connections is possible, I'd only have to update the wire and breaker size for PV > Controller. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Trying my best to work out a coherent diagram of this setup. Here's what I've been able to come up with. Could someone confirm if this looks correct?

 

[Mkgough]

I have 5 BourgeRV N 200w bi-facial panels, very light panels mounted on my Eco-Worthy tracker, VERY efficient tracker to get 1000w of input, be sure to calculate your volts in or you will need to go parallel with your input, an issue I have with my MPP Solar 2424LV at 145 max volts in. I am struggling running my 8 1/2” Dewalt table saw when ripping a 2x4 it trips the MPP. I would like to know what tools you are wanting to run and IF it works as I may add an inverter that gives me better output for the power tools. I also use an EG4 EG4LL and Lifepower set of batteries in a rack for 3000 watts of storage and a Raspberry Pi Solar Assistant to get real data. I can send you pics if you want. I also run 12v output for yard lighting and to run my tracker controller. I also have a tracker for my Bluetti AC300 with 3-365w panels. I also run a 12k btu EG4 mini-split off of the Bluetti and it has 4- 200w rich solar panels to feed the mini-split. You should be able to get 4 of those on that controller, but it will be close. My 4 BourgeRV panels on the ground never overloaded the MPP. Once I put them on the tracker, I could only do 3 in series as the tracker is so much more efficient. The 2 other panels on the tracker are in parallel.

Very curious how this will work for you and the tool load.

 

[Mkgough]

Trying my best to work out a coherent diagram of this setup. Here's what I've been able to come up with. Could someone confirm if this looks correct?

I think you will be fine all in series, it has 160v max so you are only at 130 ish with 3 panels. My other post has more details.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

I know my inverter is rated at 800W per outlet on the inverter. I'm planning on hardwiring off the inverter to a 20A outlet or something along those lines for tools. I may be able to run less power intensive tools off the outlets built into the inverter, but I'll have to be careful factoring power usage and such initially. I think I've got a good enough series-parallel configuration that'll lower the input voltage to 72.8V/13.2A instead of the former 109V/6.6A with series.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

I think you will be fine all in series, it has 160v max so you are only at 130 ish with 3 panels. My other post has more details.

That's 160V input @ 48V, it's rated at 105V @ 24V.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

That's 160V input @ 48V, it's rated at 105V @ 24V.

I THINK I'm understanding this correctly. It's been a confusing time going through all the various alternatives so far.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

I have 5 BourgeRV N 200w bi-facial panels, very light panels mounted on my Eco-Worthy tracker, VERY efficient tracker to get 1000w of input, be sure to calculate your volts in or you will need to go parallel with your input, an issue I have with my MPP Solar 2424LV at 145 max volts in. I am struggling running my 8 1/2” Dewalt table saw when ripping a 2x4 it trips the MPP. I would like to know what tools you are wanting to run and IF it works as I may add an inverter that gives me better output for the power tools. I also use an EG4 EG4LL and Lifepower set of batteries in a rack for 3000 watts of storage and a Raspberry Pi Solar Assistant to get real data. I can send you pics if you want. I also run 12v output for yard lighting and to run my tracker controller. I also have a tracker for my Bluetti AC300 with 3-365w panels. I also run a 12k btu EG4 mini-split off of the Bluetti and it has 4- 200w rich solar panels to feed the mini-split. You should be able to get 4 of those on that controller, but it will be close. My 4 BourgeRV panels on the ground never overloaded the MPP. Once I put them on the tracker, I could only do 3 in series as the tracker is so much more efficient. The 2 other panels on the tracker are in parallel.

Very curious how this will work for you and the tool load.

I'd love to see pics of your setup when you get around to it. Anything helps, trying to learn as much as I can, as I have about 2-3 weeks to sort out the details of my system and feel confident enough to start setting it up. Thanks for the info and input, it's definitely appreciated!

 

[Mkgough]

Hello,

I'm a beginner working out the details of a 24V system for a bus I'm converting to an RV. At this point, I think I've got things figured out for the most part. I really want to ensure my wiring schematic looks good and takes everything into account, most especially safety. Here's the list of primary components I have to work with:

24V System
-(3) BougeRV 200W 16BB 24V Panels - https://a.co/d/0igli4zc
-(1) PowMr 60A MPPT PRO Controller(Max PV in.105V@24V) - https://a.co/d/0gTZYH3B
-(1) SunHooPower 24V 185Ah LiFePO4 Battery - https://a.co/d/05pye5fo (planning on buying another one of these next year)
-(1) 3000W 24V Inverter - https://a.co/d/0e1xFkJQ

I've been doing quite a bit of digging for good information. I have a pretty good idea what sizes I need to connect each component, until I get to the battery->alternator connection. I'm trying my best to follow NEC Codes and Regulations, but I don't have a thorough enough understanding of the difference between 12v and 24v systems, other than 24v is generally safer to run due to lower current and heat

My expected continuous usage is looking to be between 1200w-1800w. I have power tools I'd like to use, so that value could possibly get closer to 3000W.
Refrigerator - ~400W
A/C Unit - ~800W
Computer - ~180-220W
TV - ~60W
Charging devices - ~20-50W

With these, it looks like I'll sit around the halfway mark of that 3000W, approx. 1460-1530. This leaves me a good 1500W of room to work with for battery chargers for tools and other tools that utilize AC power. Worst case scenario, I can cut off the A/C while I work with tools, offering a window of about 2300W to work with. I plan on adding some devices a little later on, like an RO system and water pumps(may go with independent solar pumps).

Here's the spec sheet for the BougeRv 200W 16BB N-Type TOPCon

Maximum Power (W)	200±3% W
Open Circuit Voltage Voc (V)	36.4V±5%
Max Power Voltage Vmp (V)	31.7V±5%
Max Power Current Imp (A)	6.3A±5%
Short Circuit Current Isc (A)	6.6A±5%
Solar Cells Efficiency	25%
Power Life	30 Years

Specs for PowMr 60A MPPT PRO Controller
Rated Battery Current - 60A
System Voltage - 12/24/36/48V Auto
Max. Input Power for 24V - 1440W 37V-105V
Max PV Open Circuit Voltage- 160Vdc
Max. Capacitive load capacity-10000uF
Self Consumption - 0.7-1.2W
Conversion Efficiency - </= 98%
MPPT tracking efficiency - >99%
Temp Compensation - -3mV/degrees C/2V(default)

Specs for SunHooPower 24V 185Ah LiFePO4 Battery
Capacity - 4736Wh
Nom. Voltage - 25.6V
Current Capacity - 185 Ah
BMS - 200A
Max Load - 5120W
Rec. Current Charge- 37A (0.2C)
Terminals - M8 - 9/16"
(according to support
Max. Voltage Drop - 4.5V
22V after voltage drop

Specs for 3000W 24V Inverter
Rated Input Voltage - DC24V
Nominal Input Voltage - DC 19.5-31.6V
Nominal Output Voltage- AC 115+/-10% V
Rated resistive load - </= 3000W
Peak Power - 6000W
Rated Inductive load- </= 1500W
4xAC provide maximum 800W power output
1000W-3000W, the high-power output terminal must be used as the output link(will probably hook the AC Unit to this)


Wire Sizing:
PV -> PV - 18AWG
PV -> Controller - 10AWG(30') (The bus will be in the shade, with the panels out in the sun)
Controller -> Battery- 4AWG(2')
Battery -> Inverter - I decided on 2AWG. I'll have two sections of 5.9" cables for the positive with a 175A breaker. At 1', the voltage drop is approx. 1.43%. 1AWG wire is almost impossible to find on Amazon and 1/0 was getting expensive very fast.

I'm currently trying to sort out how to string together any connections that might help with safety or increase efficiency. I want to be absolutely sure I'm hooking the battery up to the inverter correctly. I've seen examples where there are two cables hooked up to each terminal of the inverter, but where the other end of those cables connected to, I'm lost(this was proposed as the 'correct' way to hook up the inverter, so I'm a little lost there.). I also want to ensure that I have everything grounded properly and may double down on lightning protection.


As far as the components of the system go, I'm worried about using the PowMr Controller and that specific inverter, as they have a handful of one-off reviews labeling them as garbage products. I'm not sure how much of this has to do with a lack of experience hooking them up or if they're actually defective. I could see where things could go sideways if any part of the system thinks it's running 12v, as opposed to 24v, or connecting components in the wrong order(which I've seen in a lot of videos on Youtube.) I still have some time to return those components in the case that any of you might have had bad experiences with them and can confirm what the lower rated reviews are saying on Amazon.

Here's my choppy, basic blueprint for things so far. Some obvious points are, I'm trying to figure out the best solution for handling the negatives, hence the complete lack of grounding. The wiring is very basic at the moment until I can sort out the finer points of the various connections. Any and all insight here will be greatly appreciated.



Thanks in advance for taking the time to read through all this and any help provided. Looking forward to getting everything sorted out!

I am thinking a GOOD inverter is a must to run your tools… can't go wrong with Victron, but the 30/150 may not handle 4 panels so you would have to go parallel. Maybe go to the 45 to get more parallel amps if needed.

 

[Mkgough]

I'd love to see pics of your setup when you get around to it. Anything helps, trying to learn as much as I can, as I have about 2-3 weeks to sort out the details of my system and feel confident enough to start setting it up. Thanks for the info and input, it's definitely appreciated!

I'd love to see pics of your setup when you get around to it. Anything helps, trying to learn as much as I can, as I have about 2-3 weeks to sort out the details of my system and feel confident enough to start setting it up. Thanks for the info and input, it's definitely appreciated!

Posted, the MPP I have says 80 a 145v, I clearly exceeded the 145v on 4 panels, but no issues with at all on the tracker in great sun, so that is 105v, round up for safety 10%, 120v. Cold weather will get you better performance, so maybe plan for 20%.

 

[Mkgough]

Oh and be sure to get a Pure Sine Wave inverter, not a Modified sine wave inverter. You want clean power out for tools to run optimally, and any electronics you might use.

 

[Mkgough]

And Victron requires Victron everything… I used a Victron shunt to be able to monitor my batteries using Solar Assistant…. https://solar-assistant.io/

Pretty good stats and info of PV in, load and battery levels

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Posted, the MPP I have says 80 a 145v, I clearly exceeded the 145v on 4 panels, but no issues with at all on the tracker in great sun, so that is 105v, round up for safety 10%, 120v. Cold weather will get you better performance, so maybe plan for 20%.

Man, those trackers are ace. I'd love to get one eventually, it's definitely on my list. I rememebr stumbling across a video where this guy build his own using a couple servo motors with 4 photocell sensors behind each edge of the array to detect if sun was getting around the array. It was a really neat and relatively simple system.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Oh and be sure to get a Pure Sine Wave inverter, not a Modified sine wave inverter. You want clean power out for tools to run optimally, and any electronics you might use.

Definitely. With your Victron statement, I wouldn't be able to use a Victron controller? it wouldn't be connected to anything that wasn't Victron on either side of it I don't think. Still not 100% sure how to hook the battery up to the inverter yet, looking further into that.

 

[Mkgough]

Definitely. With your Victron statement, I wouldn't be able to use a Victron controller? it wouldn't be connected to anything that wasn't Victron on either side of it I don't think. Still not 100% sure how to hook the battery up to the inverter yet, looking further into that.

Victron for monitoring, they have their unique Comms, the Shunt which works with Solar Assistant too, their monitoring software and unit…. Piece by piece..$$$ by $$$ those add up and get pricey. Monitoring battery level is a key need. I have added my Solar Assistant dashboard pic. It tells me I have excess solar so I can add a battery, or my battery is drawing and my loads.

Just put a block in and connect the batteries to the blocks, and the inverter to the blocks using the vendors recommend cables, some call for two cables. You can see in my pics the blocks used to split off the power to the fuse box, replace that with the inverter. This is where I will connect an inverter when I find one that I am confident will run my power tools properly.

RVBOATPAT Upgrade 275A 12V Bus Bar Battery Power Distribution Block Car Audio 12 Volt DC Busbar 4 x 3/8" Posts 6 x #8 Screws for Marine Automotive RV and Solar Wiring https://a.co/d/08FjIP2R

 

[Mkgough]

Man, those trackers are ace. I'd love to get one eventually, it's definitely on my list. I rememebr stumbling across a video where this guy build his own using a couple servo motors with 4 photocell sensors behind each edge of the array to detect if sun was getting around the array. It was a really neat and relatively simple system.

You can hack one together, but consider storms. We just had a Tornado near miss with 120mph winds, golf ball+ hail and my tracker was unscathed and went flat when the wind picked up protecting the panels from worse impact. VERY impressed how well, why I just got the 2nd one. Only $450 with their coupon on Amazon, ground mounts hold 4 panels, these hold 6 and only $150 more than ground and WAY more efficient and I can get spare parts.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Victron for monitoring, they have their unique Comms, the Shunt which works with Solar Assistant too, their monitoring software and unit…. Piece by piece..$$$ by $$$ those add up and get pricey. Monitoring battery level is a key need. I have added my Solar Assistant dashboard pic. It tells me I have excess solar so I can add a battery, or my battery is drawing and my loads.

Just put a block in and connect the batteries to the blocks, and the inverter to the blocks using the vendors recommend cables, some call for two cables. You can see in my pics the blocks used to split off the power to the fuse box, replace that with the inverter. This is where I will connect an inverter when I find one that I am confident will run my power tools properly.

RVBOATPAT Upgrade 275A 12V Bus Bar Battery Power Distribution Block Car Audio 12 Volt DC Busbar 4 x 3/8" Posts 6 x #8 Screws for Marine Automotive RV and Solar Wiring https://a.co/d/08FjIP2R

Yea, the Victron stuff is pretty pricey. I could swing a controller, but that's about it. I see the bar you've got your controller connected to. I was worried about that split in the positive line between the controller and battery. The inverter should pull up to 125A from the battery and I can't seem to wrap my head around how the inverter will pull only from the battery and not try to pull 125A from the controller. That's where I'm completely lost.

With the probably flawed logic that I have, I wasn't sure if it would be better to stick a bar on the positive line from controller to battery and branch off of that to the inverter or hook up cables from the battery terminals to the inverter. Both of those options don't make any sense to me. I think it's the DC part of it that isn't making sense to me somehow.

In terms of how DC works, is the current being pushed through the lines by the source or pulled by the receiving component? I feel like it's pushed, unless a multimeter is actually pulling the current into it while testing connections. This is where I need that 'explain like I'm five' explanation, lol.

 

[OhmManiPadmeHum]

Victron for monitoring, they have their unique Comms, the Shunt which works with Solar Assistant too, their monitoring software and unit…. Piece by piece..$$$ by $$$ those add up and get pricey. Monitoring battery level is a key need. I have added my Solar Assistant dashboard pic. It tells me I have excess solar so I can add a battery, or my battery is drawing and my loads.

Just put a block in and connect the batteries to the blocks, and the inverter to the blocks using the vendors recommend cables, some call for two cables. You can see in my pics the blocks used to split off the power to the fuse box, replace that with the inverter. This is where I will connect an inverter when I find one that I am confident will run my power tools properly.

RVBOATPAT Upgrade 275A 12V Bus Bar Battery Power Distribution Block Car Audio 12 Volt DC Busbar 4 x 3/8" Posts 6 x #8 Screws for Marine Automotive RV and Solar Wiring https://a.co/d/08FjIP2R

The controller I got does have a display that shows all the vital monitoring info I'll need. I may order a BTS for it just to be safe. I've been looking at some options to redundancy, as I'm not sure how accurate the info in the display will be. I was planning on testing every connection with a multi meter, as I probably should, throughout the installation process.

 

[Mkgough]

Yea, the Victron stuff is pretty pricey. I could swing a controller, but that's about it. I see the bar you've got your controller connected to. I was worried about that split in the positive line between the controller and battery. The inverter should pull up to 125A from the battery and I can't seem to wrap my head around how the inverter will pull only from the battery and not try to pull 125A from the controller. That's where I'm completely lost.

With the probably flawed logic that I have, I wasn't sure if it would be better to stick a bar on the positive line from controller to battery and branch off of that to the inverter or hook up cables from the battery terminals to the inverter. Both of those options don't make any sense to me. I think it's the DC part of it that isn't making sense to me somehow.

In terms of how DC works, is the current being pushed through the lines by the source or pulled by the receiving component? I feel like it's pushed, unless a multimeter is actually pulling the current into it while testing connections. This is where I need that 'explain like I'm five' explanation, lol.

There is only one line in and out of the batteries through the block, so in and out are on the same line, don't sweat, it works ;-). Think about your car… same concept, you can run multiple cables to the batteries to the inverter and separate to the SCC if you want to spend the copper… thicker 2awg from the battery to the block, then whatever size the components want from the block, 2 sets of cablesfor some inverters.

 

[Mkgough]

The controller I got does have a display that shows all the vital monitoring info I'll need. I may order a BTS for it just to be safe. I've been looking at some options to redundancy, as I'm not sure how accurate the info in the display will be. I was planning on testing every connection with a multi meter, as I probably should, throughout the installation process.

Unless it connects to the battery your data will suck.. you will not know the battery actual state of charge, why I use the Solar Assistant which does work with the Victron shunt via a cable, the cheapest monitoring solution you can get

 

[Mkgough]

Definitely. With your Victron statement, I wouldn't be able to use a Victron controller? it wouldn't be connected to anything that wasn't Victron on either side of it I don't think. Still not 100% sure how to hook the battery up to the inverter yet, looking further into that.

There is a positive and negative post on the inverter you connect the cables to a block and then block to the batteries with 2awg cables. Thick cable to batteries good, thin bad.

 

[Mkgough]

I know my inverter is rated at 800W per outlet on the inverter. I'm planning on hardwiring off the inverter to a 20A outlet or something along those lines for tools. I may be able to run less power intensive tools off the outlets built into the inverter, but I'll have to be careful factoring power usage and such initially. I think I've got a good enough series-parallel configuration that'll lower the input voltage to 72.8V/13.2A instead of the former 109V/6.6A with series.

Use a surge bar like this for output… what I used before I connected it the panel directly in my workshop, hook it up to the heavy load output and you get more outlets USB and plug your roll up extension cord like I have in the pics

 

[Mkgough]

There is a positive and negative post on the inverter you connect the cables to a block and then block to the batteries with 2awg cables. Thick cable to batteries good, thin bad.

In the pic notice the connections. The far right is where I have a grey breaker box going to the main panel, before it was that Webang with the wires that are in my hand in the MPP output. I left it there as I will add an inverter to beef up output for my heavy tools, table and chop saws. Then the red stripe box is a PV cutoff so it’s easy to work on panels. Bottom left is the Raspberry Pi Solar Assistant. The red battery cable is connected to a 50amp fuse so I can disconnect batteries to work on things. Then the blocks are used to connect it all together. Notice the cable thicknesses vary, but thick to the batteries. And I have a fuse between the MPP input to protect it, this would be your Solar Charge Controller. Maybe use your inverter AC output plugs to a surge strip for little things like tool battery chargers and the like.

 

[Mkgough]

What Solar Assistant cured for me is to see the actual battery SoC, PV input and load in an easy console on my phone. I will basically be replacing the MPP Solar 2424LV to a setup like yours to solve 2 problems. 1) maximize solar input as it is trimming my 1000 watts to 650 ish, wasting solar. 2) better output for tools with an inverter. 3) add another battery so full use of solar I have. The only other option I have is to go 48v which is overkill for what I need and already have 2-24v EG4 batteries in an EG4 rack that can hold 3 batteries, covered, protected. I had external top post batteries before and found the exposed terminals made me nervous, so rack mount is so much cleaner. I can also service the cells in mine if one fails.