Charge Controller Repair

[Cuemaker]

Has anyone taken apart a charge controller to try & fix it?
I have an Aims 100amp CC that everything seems to work but will not charge.
I can scroll through the settings, no problem.
Battery voltage 53v, solar panel input voltage = 111v, but amps = <10 (full sun)
Normally panels = 95v & amps = 3k+ with good sun.
Strong urge to pop it open, check fuses or see if anything got hot.
Any advise, am I crazy or do I have a chance to fix it?

 

[Supervstech]

I’m in the same boat… I have some soldering skills, and plenty of tools, but no clue how to go about fixing mine… I just got another one.

 

[OffGridInTheCity]

You don't say how much it's been used. I had an AIMS 12,000w inverter that started operating erratically at 25,000hrs (5 yrs). Opened it up and couldn't see anything wrong but sent the control board for repair... where they replaced all the caps and measured some stuff and it fixed it! - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/success-story-aims-12-000w-control-board-repair.62171/

The AIMS Inverter control board repair cost ~$500 which was OK for an AIMS 12,000w inverter based on it's price but maybe not so much for a charge controller.

If you have patience open it up and look around for something popped or burnt. If nothing obvious then the next level is to try to replace capacitors as I understand they wear over several years if that makes sense in you're situation. But one needs patience to try self repair and like @Supervstech I'm more inclined to buy something else and hope for longer service.

 

[Cuemaker]

In service a couple years.
I accidentally turned off the battery switch & flipped it back on.
Early in the morning, there was 740w coming into CC.
I can see 8 fuses looking up in it, they are close enough to check & they all seem good but hard to get a good connection without taking apart.
New board cost $375 + shipping.

 

[Road Dog]

I attempted repair on a Renogy Rover 30 charge controller. I was changing out the batteries, failed to follow my written checklist, and disconnected the charge controller B4 disabling the solar panel. I was working in my barn with only 1 overhead light but apparently it was enough panel voltage to fry the circuit. I tested all of the fuses and looked for a burned circuit trace but no joy. At this point it was above my pay grade so I simply replaced it. Others have successfully repaired controllers by following these methods and repairing a burned connection or replacing a fuse.

 

[Cuemaker]

I attempted repair on a Renogy Rover 30 charge controller. I was changing out the batteries, failed to follow my written checklist, and disconnected the charge controller B4 disabling the solar panel. I was working in my barn with only 1 overhead light but apparently it was enough panel voltage to fry the circuit. I tested all of the fuses and looked for a burned circuit trace but no joy. At this point it was above my pay grade so I simply replaced it. Others have successfully repaired controllers by following these methods and repairing a burned connection or replacing a fuse.

No luck so far, wish I had a schematic I'm sure I could figure it out.
I'm going to order a new board & compare them before I stick it in.
I'm not a master electrician but it doesn't seem to be too complicated.
It acts like an electric motor when a start capacitor goes bad, PV = 111 then it tries to start but it doesn't.
PV drops to about 0 & when it doesn't start producing amps, the PV shoots back up to 111.