Dinosaur system and a newbie.

[DouglasPaul]

I am living full time in a 2003 26' trailer at Quartzite AZ. It came with a couple solar panels and two lead acid 6 volt golf cart batteries. They don't seem to hold a lot of power though they aren't that old. What I hope to accomplish is to be able to use small amounts of 110 ac power without being plugged in to anything and not have to run a generator for so many hours to charge to full. I will give all the pictures I can on what I have to work with. My question is can I integrate some modern things into this system or do I need a complete overhaul? My panels are Renogy panels. Would something like this be a good option for me?

Here is what I'm working with..

 

[DouglasPaul]

 

[DouglasPaul]

Thank you in advance for any suggestions/help.

 

[HRTKD]

Looks like a good start. The IOTA Engineering converter can be used with LiFePO4 batteries if you add the IQ4-LiFePO4 module. It isn't perfect, but it will charge safely LiFePO4.

If the existing batteries aren't cutting it then you can replace them with similarly sized LiFePO4 batteries. You'll buy 12 volt LiFePO4 batteries, not 6 volt and wire the two batteries in parallel, not series like the existing 6 volt batteries are.

The solar charge controller must be programmable for LiFePO4 or some other battery chemistry that is safe for LiFePO4.

 

[DouglasPaul]

It appears that my charge controller is this one without the optional meter.

https://www.solaris-shop.com/morningstar-tristar-ts-45-pwm-charge-controller/

https://www.solaris-shop.com/content/TS-45%20Specs.pdf

I could buy the meter to adjust it to LiFePO4 batteries or maybe I could buy one of these and use my laptop to do that?

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Chipset%EF%BC%8CDB9-Serial-Converter-Windows/dp/B0759HSLP1/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb

What I'm not sure of is what size load it will handle. Or better put, what volts can be entered from the solar panels; ie can it handle 2-400 watt panels on top of the 2 presumably 100 watt panels already installed on my rv?

And I'm pretty sure I'm going to need to replace the Iota DLS-45 power converter with a inverter to get power to my ac plugs, as it stands they will only work when my 30 amp line is plugged into some kind of shore power.

Am I anywhere near the target here? More or less flying blind as I know nothing about this stuff.

 

[HRTKD]

I don't have a lot of experience with the PWM controllers. I'm going to say that you have to be careful with what PV you attach to a PWM solar charge controller. The MPPT solar charge controllers are much more of a known quantity to me and you have quite a bit of PV flexibility with them. The overriding principle you must follow with MPPT solar charge controllers is to never, ever exceed the Maximum PV Input Voltage.

If the solar charge controller is rated for 100 volts PV, then you darn well better keep the PV volts under 100 or you are likely to fry the solar charge controller. Quality solar charge controllers will just shut down, if you're lucky.

 

[DouglasPaul]

I don't have a lot of experience with the PWM controllers. I'm going to say that you have to be careful with what PV you attach to a PWM solar charge controller. The MPPT solar charge controllers are much more of a known quantity to me and you have quite a bit of PV flexibility with them. The overriding principle you must follow with MPPT solar charge controllers is to never, ever exceed the Maximum PV Input Voltage.

If the solar charge controller is rated for 100 volts PV, then you darn well better keep the PV volts under 100 or you are likely to fry the solar charge controller. Quality solar charge controllers will just shut down, if you're lucky.

Thanks. I'll have to take a meter to what I have now, also the fuses on this controller are 40 amps so it may not be up to what I want to do.

 

[HRTKD]

Thanks. I'll have to take a meter to what I have now, also the fuses on this controller are 40 amps so it may not be up to what I want to do.

Well, that's interesting. If the 40 amp fuse is on the OUTPUT side of the controller then you've never produced enough current to take the solar charge controller to it's limit.

We usually recommend overcurrent protection that is 1.25 times the expected current. So on a 45 amp solar charge controller you would use a 56 amp breaker/fuse. But you are unlikely to find one at that amperage so you would move up to a 60 amp breaker/fuse.

 

[DouglasPaul]

Well, that's interesting. If the 40 amp fuse is on the OUTPUT side of the controller then you've never produced enough current to take the solar charge controller to it's limit.

We usually recommend overcurrent protection that is 1.25 times the expected current. So on a 45 amp solar charge controller you would use a 56 amp breaker/fuse. But you are unlikely to find one at that amperage so you would move up to a 60 amp breaker/fuse.

There is a 40 amp breaker on the line coming into the controller and a 42 amp breaker on the outgoing line. Maybe their thinking was with two panels that was all that was needed. Nothing about it looks amateurish to me, that probably won't last after I'm done with it.

 

[justgary]

It appears that my charge controller is this one without the optional meter.
https://www.solaris-shop.com/morningstar-tristar-ts-45-pwm-charge-controller/ https://www.solaris-shop.com/content/TS-45%20Specs.pdf
I could buy the meter to adjust it to LiFePO4 batteries or maybe I could buy one of these and use my laptop to do that?
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Chipset%EF%BC%8CDB9-Serial-Converter-Windows/dp/B0759HSLP1/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb
What I'm not sure of is what size load it will handle. Or better put, what volts can be entered from the solar panels; ie can it handle 2-400 watt panels on top of the 2 presumably 100 watt panels already installed on my rv?

The TS-45 is a good charge controller. The meter will not help you adjust it. Download the manual and MSView software from Morningstar and use a DE-9 (everybody says DB9, but they are wrong) RS-232 USB converter cable. In my experience, buying one with an FTDI chip works best.

The absolute maximum rating is 125V. I would leave it a bit of headroom.

It can charge up to 45A. I would leave it a bit of headroom.

What you will find about PWM is that it is probably more efficient to keep the voltage low and the current high, so using panels in parallel is probably the better bet.

If you want to switch to lithium, you will need to put the controller into custom mode and program the settings with the software.

 

[DouglasPaul]

The TS-45 is a good charge controller. The meter will not help you adjust it. Download the manual and MSView software from Morningstar and use a DE-9 (everybody says DB9, but they are wrong) RS-232 USB converter cable. In my experience, buying one with an FTDI chip works best.

The absolute maximum rating is 125V. I would leave it a bit of headroom.

It can charge up to 45A. I would leave it a bit of headroom.

What you will find about PWM is that it is probably more efficient to keep the voltage low and the current high, so using panels in parallel is probably the better bet.

If you want to switch to lithium, you will need to put the controller into custom mode and program the settings with the software.

Great information, thank you. I already ordered a cable, but I only have a lower end laptop these days, hope I can make it work. I was in chat with Northern Arizona wind and sun about it but as soon as the rep figured out I wasn't buying one he dropped off and disappeared.

 

[DouglasPaul]

I am going LiFePO4 no matter what so if I can't make this system work I'll get new components. I'm going to order one of the Weize 12 volts based off of Will's video and will expand from there. I would love to get server rack batteries but, for the price I think I can make these work.

 

[DouglasPaul]

One more Weize 12 volt and one of these WZRELB Reliable 3000 watt/24 volt inverters

https://www.amazon.com/Reliable-RBP-3000S-LED-3000w-Inverter-Display/dp/B0154ECBSK/ref=sr_1_8?crid=77WP1AJ12KXG&keywords=Pure%2BSine%2BWave%2BPower%2BInverter%2C%2B24%2Bvolt&qid=1668780271&s=electronics&sprefix=pure%2Bsine%2Bwave%2Bpower%2Binverter%2C%2B24%2Bvolt%2Celectronics%2C237&sr=1-8&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb&th=1

Any thoughts on this set up? I'll have to figure out how and where to hook up the inverter and still keep my original system intact. Obviously going to have to install a couple new receptacles.

 

[DouglasPaul]

The TS-45 is a good charge controller. The meter will not help you adjust it. Download the manual and MSView software from Morningstar and use a DE-9 (everybody says DB9, but they are wrong) RS-232 USB converter cable. In my experience, buying one with an FTDI chip works best.

The absolute maximum rating is 125V. I would leave it a bit of headroom.

It can charge up to 45A. I would leave it a bit of headroom.

What you will find about PWM is that it is probably more efficient to keep the voltage low and the current high, so using panels in parallel is probably the better bet.

If you want to switch to lithium, you will need to put the controller into custom mode and program the settings with the software.

Does anyone know if the LED display can be unplugged or is it soldered or otherwise permanently installed? I cannot fit the end of the RS 232 cable past the LED 's, and the CC will not charge higher than 13 volts using the panels.

 

[justgary]

Does anyone know if the LED display can be unplugged or is it soldered or otherwise permanently installed? I cannot fit the end of the RS 232 cable past the LED 's, and the CC will not charge higher than 13 volts using the panels.

I use a pair of DE-9 "gender benders," One male and one female. They fit easily and stack beyond the LEDs. They should be cheap and easy to find.

 

[DouglasPaul]

I use a pair of DE-9 "gender benders," One male and one female. They fit easily and stack beyond the LEDs. They should be cheap and easy to find.

View attachment 122445

Hey, thanks!