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Emergency ? Help

Since it's possible your inverter is damaged, turning it off may not actually truly turn it off. I'd consider it hazardous. To disconnect, simply remove either (or both) wires that connect the inverter to the battery (the wires are most often in the back of the inverter). Disconnecting is generally not as specific as connecting. You can worry about re-connecting later and we can help you.

You have not enough panels for the amount of battery you have. So your battery is likely getting drained. Are the batteries lithium or AGM?


Because an inverter (especially a 3000W one) will use battery power simply to keep the inverter powered on. Even if nothing is connected to the inverter, it can drain your battery in far less time than you'd think. And since it's confirmed you do not have enough solar panels to charge up your battery, it's being drained by the inverter (plus any loads you have connected, such as your mini-fridge which uses more energy than you might currently believe) and so when batteries get low, some inverters get really unhappy about this.

One possibility is that it has taken a week for your battery bank to slowly get discharged to too-low levels for your system to work properly. And/or your inverter is damaged. If your battery bank holds 30 units of power and your inverter+loads use 10 units of power every day and your panels put back in 3 units of power every day, then you an see that after enough days your battery bank will have 0 units of power.


No worries - most of us were confused when we first started too, so you're in good company. There are a lot of NOT confused people on this forum as you can see from some of the replies already.

The confusion comes from when you THINK you know how the system works and then you experience the reality of how it REALLY works. People smarter than me can help you get down to the exact reasons as to why you are having problems, but my guesses above are likely in the ballpark.

Please post your exact inverter, model # and link as well as your batteries, and solar panels. You may also not have your Renogy Rover charge controller programmed properly for your batteries, which we can help with as well. Pictures can help a lot, if you can do so easily. Pictures of your inverter, batteries and charge controller as well as the back side of your panels (so we can see the spec label).
This post is golden! Nothing more humbling then your system kicking your teeth in a few times. Take your licks and keep learning.
 
Checking back in ..... did you get a resolution?

Is the battery a DIY or pre-made? One battery or multiple? If pre-made what manufacturer ... a picture would be good.

Do you have any Bluetooth or other communications to the batteries?
 
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Checking back in ..... did you get a resolution?

Is the battery a DIY or pre-made? One battery or multiple? If pre-made what manufacturer ... a picture would be good.

Do you have any Bluetooth or other communications to the batteries?
I switched the 3000w modified sine wave inverter with a 1500w “Pure” sine inverter, but the panels still aren’t charging the batteries.
It’s a battery bank of three Renogy batteries. Made the bank myself if that’s what you mean.
The picture is from while I had the negative wire disconnected.
Renogy calls two of the batteries “Smart” and one “Bluetooth” but I haven’t been able to utilize it without WiFi.
 

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I switched the 3000w modified sine wave inverter with a 1500w “Pure” sine inverter, but the panels still aren’t charging the batteries.
It’s a battery bank of three Renogy batteries. Made the bank myself if that’s what you mean.
The picture is from while I had the negative wire disconnected.
Renogy calls two of the batteries “Smart” and one “Bluetooth” but I haven’t been able to utilize it without WiFi.
Is the controller reading any charge in the batteries?
 
What type of batteries are you using?

Check them with a multimeter and see what the voltage is.

If they are LFP and your inverter drained them to empty you may need to jump start the BMS to get them to charge.

Always connect the battery to the controller first and then the panels.
LiFe Po4, 12v 100ah
Just bought a multimeter but honestly don’t know how to use it. Is there a simple way it can be explained that’s easier to understand than its instructions?
Is LFP short for LiFe Po4?
 
Since it's possible your inverter is damaged, turning it off may not actually truly turn it off. I'd consider it hazardous. To disconnect, simply remove either (or both) wires that connect the inverter to the battery (the wires are most often in the back of the inverter). Disconnecting is generally not as specific as connecting. You can worry about re-connecting later and we can help you.

You have not enough panels for the amount of battery you have. So your battery is likely getting drained. Are the batteries lithium or AGM?


Because an inverter (especially a 3000W one) will use battery power simply to keep the inverter powered on. Even if nothing is connected to the inverter, it can drain your battery in far less time than you'd think. And since it's confirmed you do not have enough solar panels to charge up your battery, it's being drained by the inverter (plus any loads you have connected, such as your mini-fridge which uses more energy than you might currently believe) and so when batteries get low, some inverters get really unhappy about this.

One possibility is that it has taken a week for your battery bank to slowly get discharged to too-low levels for your system to work properly. And/or your inverter is damaged. If your battery bank holds 30 units of power and your inverter+loads use 10 units of power every day and your panels put back in 3 units of power every day, then you an see that after enough days your battery bank will have 0 units of power.


No worries - most of us were confused when we first started too, so you're in good company. There are a lot of NOT confused people on this forum as you can see from some of the replies already.

The confusion comes from when you THINK you know how the system works and then you experience the reality of how it REALLY works. People smarter than me can help you get down to the exact reasons as to why you are having problems, but my guesses above are likely in the ballpark.

Please post your exact inverter, model # and link as well as your batteries, and solar panels. You may also not have your Renogy Rover charge controller programmed properly for your batteries, which we can help with as well. Pictures can help a lot, if you can do so easily. Pictures of your inverter, batteries and charge controller as well as the back side of your panels (so we can see the spec label).
This is the 3000w modified sine wave. But I took that out and put in a 1500w pure sine. I can’t find it online anywhere but here’s a picture of both. I don’t know the model #s




Can’t access back of panels. They came with the partially converter skoolie so we don’t have pictures.
 

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Modified sine wave inverters do not work well or at all with some electric blankets, digital equipment, compressor motors, microwaves etc.

Sounds like you overheated the inverter probably with the electric blanket and may have damaged the cooling fan hence the noise.

Disconnect it and let it cool down completely. Recharge the batts with no load.

Try it again but not with the electric blanket.

You really need a pure sine wave inverter.
I disconnected the negative wire from the inverter until I replaced it with a 1500w pure sine wave inverter. But the batteries still aren’t charging. Do I just need to jump start them? And will I be able to use a heated blanket now?
 
Inverter likely is discharging the battery.
For SURE disconnect it.

200W is negligable for a 300Ah bank, and a 3000W inverter can drain a 3000Ah bank rapidly.
I replaced the inverter with a 1500w pure Sine. Should I sell one battery or buy an additional solar panel? Would a 30a charge controller handle that? And would that be enough? What damage is occurring to the batteries with 200-300w of solar panels?
 
What indicators do you have on the Charge controller .... any error displayed? Do you have a copy of the user manual for the Renogy Rover?

I am attaching a copy of the manual.

I don't know anything about these Renogy components, but I see on page 12 of the manual there is a section titled Lithium Battery Activation. They warn that you may have to do this if the battery are too low a charge.
There is also a troubleshooting section in the manual.

Do you have both the battery and solar led when you have sun?

If I get time I will try to read up on those batteries ... or maybe someone will check in who is familiar with those components.

It's going to be hard to help with a 2 day lapse in communications.
 
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LiFe Po4, 12v 100ah
Just bought a multimeter but honestly don’t know how to use it. Is there a simple way it can be explained that’s easier to understand than its instructions?
Is LFP short for LiFe Po4?
You need to call someone to check your system.
Or at least have a zoom call with someone who can guide you.
I really don't want to offend you, but if you don't know how to use a multimeter don't proceed with this.

It's no rocket science, but many things can go wrong and you can damage your equipment or even worse hurt yourself.
 
What indicators do you have on the Charge controller .... any error displayed? Do you have a copy of the user manual for the Renogy Rover?

I am attaching a copy of the manual.

I don't know anything about these Renogy components, but I see on page 12 of the manual there is a section titled Lithium Battery Activation. They warn that you may have to do this if the battery are too low a charge.
There is also a troubleshooting section in the manual.

Do you have both the battery and solar led when you have sun?

If I get time I will try to read up on those batteries ... or maybe someone will check in who is familiar with those components.

It's going to be hard to help with a 2 day lapse in communications.
Error 1. Read before that means dead battery. Now seeing it says to check the voltage on the batteries with a multimeter.

I can’t remember which leds were on when the sun was out. I want to say the error one was on and either the battery or panel one was flashing. Not sure. I wish I had taken a picture.

I greatly appreciate all the help.

And sorry about the gap in communications, a loved one’s been going through a mental health crisis.
 
You need to call someone to check your system.
Or at least have a zoom call with someone who can guide you.
I really don't want to offend you, but if you don't know how to use a multimeter don't proceed with this.

It's no rocket science, but many things can go wrong and you can damage your equipment or even worse hurt yourself.
Is anyone on here able to do a call to guide me through using the multimeter?
Also, should I wait to jump start the batteries until I use the multimeter?
 
Is anyone on here able to do a call to guide me through using the multimeter?
Also, should I wait to jump start the batteries until I use the multimeter?
Set the multimeter to 20 volts (20v) and touch the positive post with the positive lead which is red and the negative posts with the negative lead that is black and tell us what the reading is.

 
Set the multimeter to 20 volts (20v) and touch the positive post with the positive lead which is red and the negative posts with the negative lead that is black and tell us what the reading is.

It’s a battery bank of 3 batteries. Should I test each battery individually or a positive and negative on opposite batteries in the bank?
Sorry for the delay. Something came up
 
It’s a battery bank of 3 batteries. Should I test each battery individually or a positive and negative on opposite batteries in the bank?
Sorry for the delay. Something came up
I would test each individual battery to insure they all are working properly
 
You need a charger to wake the bms up you will have to do this for each battery individually the bms has shut down for low voltage

if possible charge each battery to full capacity then hook them back up after verification of correct voltage which should be over 13 volts once they settle out
 
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