First RV setup, 3x100w flexible Newpowa panels, Victron 100/30, Giandell 1500w inverter, 2x100ah AGM 12v batteries. Fuse / breaker / cutoff questions

[guyrelax]

Hi All, thanks in advance for any assistance.

First RV setup 2008 Lance 825 truck camper with 3x100w flexible Newpowa panels, Victron 100/30 charge controller, Giandell 1500w inverter, 2x100ah Weize AGM 12v batteries.

My main question is about cuttoff / breakers / fuses before I hook everything up. I'm not totally sure if I should use the panels in series or parallel but I figured parallel. The short circuit current of the panels is 6.29amps, volt pmax 17v, max fuse 10a. I bought 3x 10a inline fuses to go with each panel. Not totally sure if that sizing is correct.

Then I bought a 30amp fuse (or should it be a breaker?) for between the controller and battery.

I'm reading I should also have a breaker or cutoff between panels and controller. Not sure if that's accurate or what to get. In all cases I would like to have whatever I need on hand if I should decide to switch panels to series, or if I add another 100w panel and do a series / parallel combo.

Is there any reason other than cost to ever use a fuse instead of a breaker?

Is there anything else I'm missing? Apparently the inverter has built in fuses. I bought a 150a breaker before I was aware of that. I'm still pretty damn confused overall because it seems every tutorial video has different info. I also have a battery monitor I need to wire up. Somebody said I need a 200a relay between the inverter and battery 'to protect the wire' (which is confusing me more).

Any and all help is appreciated. Please dumb it down for me because this is all new including most acronyms.
Thank you

 

[mikefitz]

3x100w flexible Newpowa panels,

Three panels can be connected in parallel or series to the controller. If more than two in parallel, technically fuses are needed on each, so use the 10A you have.
A 4 panel series/ parallel would be a prefered set up. In this case fuses are optional on each of the two strings, 15A.

All cables connected to the battery positive need overcurrent protection to prevent cable, or whatever is on the end of that cable, from setting fire if there is a fault. This protection should be as close to the battery as possible.
30 or 40 amp fuse/ breaker on the controller positive feed cable, 150 or 200 amp fuse /breaker on the inverter feed cable.
If you have a 12v accessory fuse box, then a 30 or 40 amp fuse/breaker on that feed cable.
Select cable from this chart,

Part 1: Choosing the Correct Wire Size for a DC Circuit - Blue Sea Systems

Engineering high quality marine electrical components for safety, reliability and performance

www.bluesea.com

If using breakers use only a quality make, there are low cost breakers on ebay/amazon from China that just don't work, causing many issues. Quality breakers from Bluesea/Bussmann.

Between panels and controller a isolator is useful, optional on a small system with fused panels.

On a practical note using the Inverter at full power on two 100Ah AGM will give the batteries a hard and short life. Lithium is more suitable for inverter power.

 

[guyrelax]

Thanks for this.

Seems like I have most bases covered. I'm not sure about the 12v accessory fuse box or how to determine. There are two 12v dc plugs inside the camper. There's a fuse box that is stock with this Lance 825.

Not sure what you mean by the isolator or what its for in this case. Do you mean a dual pole breaker? This is what I ordered other day to cutoff solar if needed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BQP924P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What do you mean by 'full power'? I don't foresee using 1500watts with any regularity if that's what you mean. Just figured it would be better to have than 1000w. I considered lithium but I believe I would need to upgrade circuit board, shore power and possibly dc/dc charger for alternator? This 08 Lance has no Lithium capability from the factory and I am trying to keep costs down because i will probably sell it next year. I figured if I needed more power I would do a separate power bank.

One other question I have is.. how can I use the inverter to supply the 110v plugs that are already in the camper and potentially run the fridge off 110v? 110v only works through shore power currently which I haven't ever used. The fridge is a 2 way 110v / propane norcold n302r. I also thought about swapping the compressor to dc if that would use less power

 

[mikefitz]

Your existing camper system will have 12v batteries so if the two AGM are Installed as a replacement /addition in their place, then there should be an electrical path via fuses/ breaker to the accessory outlets

I ordered other day to cutoff solar

OK to use that, the overload 40A function wil, never trip as the power source, the panels, have a maximum current caperbility. Its functional as a breaker. Breaker/isolator is required for large solar arrays where high voltage is present, on a small system its a useful addition.

. how can I use the inverter to supply the 110v plugs that are already in the camper and potentially run the fridge off 110v? 110v only works through shore power currently which I haven't ever used.

You don't really have enough battery and solar to power the fridge on AC or 12v DC continually, OK for a few hours whilst mobile. Suggest running on propane or shore power. It's an absorbtion type fridge so converting to a 12v compressor system is not practical.
Using an inverter together with shore power idealy needs an inverter designed for that, with auto change over , auto grounding. Your inverter is designed for 'portable' applications where appliances are pluged directly Into the invereter.