Hart 3 stall horse trailer with LQ converted to toy hauler w/ 3kw Solar roof.

[riecraig]

Hi everyone!
This is only my second post, but I’ve been on here lurking trying to learn what I can.

I started with a 2007 Hart 30’ gooseneck 3 stall trailer with front living quarters and have been in the process of converting it for dual purpose as a toy hauler for my gf and me to tour the States. Here’s a shot of the trailer prior to start;


I think in hindsight I would have gone with victron for such a mobile system, but probably on the next build
The current state of the equipment room:

And the roof:


Also decided to remove the Coleman/mach rooftop unit and switch to a mini split heat pump. What’s interesting is it’s 48v DC input, so hoping for an efficiency gain.


Plenty more photos to come as I start on the inside LQ, and I know I’ll have questions to ask!

 

[42OhmsPA]

Nicely done!

 

[HarryN]

Those hotspot split units are supposed to be top notch. Looking forward to hearing how they work out.

Are they both heating and cooling?

 

[riecraig]

Those hotspot split units are supposed to be top notch. Looking forward to hearing how they work out.

Are they both heating and cooling?

Yes it will both heat and cool, though I forget off the top of my head on how low it will go. Keeping the propane furnace as backup on low PV days or breakdown. I’m excited to get it up and running. Will report back on wattage used.

 

[riecraig]

I went with a chargeverter instead of the built in unit in the 6000XP for a couple of reasons:

1. Takes the fear of if I will have 240v available to charge, as the 6000xp will only charge on split phase. With the chargeverter I can throw 120v 15a all the way up to 240v 30a (really 27a) at it. Doesn’t need to be clean either. A crappy old non inverter style generator will work just fine. Also allows me to carry a smaller, quieter generator.

2. Pesky float neutral problem. The 6000xp has the ability for a dynamic neutral bond, but it’s not automatic. I would have to constantly be switching it on and off via the menu depending if I was on shore power, or if I was running off batteries. I know myself too well to know that I would definitely forget lol.

3. Redundancy. A quick jumper cord and I could be up and running on shore power if the chargeverter failed, albeit only on 240v.

Just wanted to explain my thought process on all this stuff!

 

[eXodus]

you installed a EV charger?

Also decided to remove the Coleman/mach rooftop unit and switch to a mini split heat pump. What’s interesting is it’s 48v DC input, so hoping for an efficiency gain.

with the roof unit gone - why did you space the panels that much?

I removed most vents in my RV and made the panels as flat as possible. I always thought LQ-Horse trailers would be ideal for conversions - sturdy aluminum roof - far less penetrations then an RV.

Pesky float neutral problem. The 6000xp has the ability for a dynamic neutral bond, but it’s not automatic. I would have to constantly be switching it on and off via the menu depending if I was on shore power, or if I was running off batteries.

I solved this very analog - my RV power cord is plugged into the Generator outlet in the bay while I am on battery power - the generator creates the ground-neutral bond. - As the grid usually does.

You could just have dummy outlet where your cable stores - where you plug it in and has ground-neutral bonded. You are only without a ground-neutral bond when you move the plug from one power source to another. Usually 1 minute or less.

 

[riecraig]

with the roof unit gone - why did you space the panels that much?

I have ideas for some sliding storage, along with still wanting to use the rear stall vents. It still has to be able to transport a horse here and there. I have even been toying with the idea of a sliding solar awning!

I solved this very analog - my RV power cord is plugged into the Generator outlet in the bay while I am on battery power - the generator creates the ground-neutral bond. - As the grid usually does.

I definitely considered that route. I just liked the idea of being a bit more flexible in my input power both voltage and “cleanliness”

I often try to design my stuff with as little steps as possible, as I’m always forgetting to do them! Haha

I always thought LQ-Horse trailers would be ideal for conversions - sturdy aluminum roof - far less penetrations then an RV.

It’s a really solid unit! Super stout. I mean it’s designed for 3000lbs*+ of horse in the back, so couple of these aren’t anything to it:

They’re also why I put the charger in. I’m hoping with solar assistant/home assistant I can come up with a routine that puts any overage from the array into the scoots. Also, when the trailer is sitting idle at my house I can charge them.

 

[eXodus]

This is how we roll, we have 2 horses and tow them across country. One of our horse is 1200lbs - your 3 horse trailer is probably rate for around 5000lbs of living and moving payload.

They’re also why I put the charger in. I’m hoping with solar assistant/home assistant I can come up with a routine that puts any overage from the array into the scoots. Also, when the trailer is sitting idle at my house I can charge them.

love the BMW scooter, we haven an i3 EV car - and I just plug it into the 120V outlet of the RV to use the solar when parked at home
Don't do any managing, it's just not charging fast enough.

But I do not take the EV with me on trips. Our short distance transportation eats grass and hay, no need for charging