Hooking up a 24 volt battery to a mppt charge controller input and it works !! It’s charging a 12 volt battery. What’s the long term affect?

[ArkCabinMan]

Thank you , so victron doesn’t recommend it but as long your within specs , why not?!! The only odd part on the 24 volt solar charger on the panel display , it shows 0 volts to battery.. but the battery charging icon show it’s charging

Got a fire extinguisher nearby?? ?
Just sayin'

 

[sirslayer]

Victron also dont recommend using diy batteries , that means any one using diy batteries period are in risk besides if it’s victron or not !! Then if that’s the case , most of this website user total have enough firepower to split the moon in half

 

[Tecnodave]

That's a Midnite Solar? Victrons seem to have it.. what else is there we care about?

Nope....not a Midnight.....that’s an Outback.....Same crew designed both of them

 

[brum]

If you have a decent MPPT charger that you don't need and you feel OK with the risk of trashing it - go with that approach. If you are starting from scratch - get a DC to DC charger. The Victron DC-DC charger is exactly that. And in general DC-DC chargers are a lot less expensive compared to MPPT chargers with the same power rating.

 

[sirslayer]

Here is my update on my project, having a current control to the mppt solar input would come in handing. I don’t have that option on my Ooycyoo solar charger but what I could mange is the max voltage cutoff to the 12 volt batteries. There is two concepts I can use for the 12 volt side, the first is using the 12 volt side as auxiliary 12 volt supply. I set the max voltage on the mppt at 13.3 volts and use a constant 400 to 500 watt load on the charger load output connection. It keeps the 12 volt battery safe and increase the longevity of the batteries and 450 watts is enough to power your living room setup , like tv, dvr, nvr, 250 watt audio and broadband internet. Or the 2nd concept is the use the 12 volt solar charger as a battery charger and set the max voltage of the mppt to 14.6 and when you buy a bunch of 12 volt batteries , you can set up in parallel and charge them to your heart content .. as long you don’t over draw the 24 volt batteries , a balance of how many 24 volt batteries vs how often you use the 12 volt side is up to the user ..I have been using my setup for over 1 month and a half with no issues but again not to draw the 24 volt side is not for a noob to learn from

 

[schmism]

Have fun.
If I ever get my Ford lighting, I'll be trying out a couple of SCC's on the 300+ battery.
And yes, everything will have OCP.

I think you'll find being able to access the 300v mains to be impossible for any meaningful use.

 

[timselectric]

I think you'll find being able to access the 300v mains to be impossible for any meaningful use.

The Ford lighting is designed to output the battery voltage through the DC fast charging port. The ford pro charger is made for this purpose.
The function is already activated for the extended battery model. But the dealer can activate it on the short range battery.

 

[schmism]

The Ford lighting is designed to output the battery voltage through the DC fast charging port. The ford pro charger is made for this purpose.
The function is already activated for the extended battery model. But the dealer can activate it on the short range battery.

Its my understanding that the inverter is still on the truck, and converts the high voltage DC to 220v AC that the normal level 2 charger on the wall takes. The marketing being the truck can backfeed your house if the grid is down. However it would seem that requires the charging station on the wall to be grid sense aware and have other ATS aware features. You wouldn't want to be bleeding back to the grid when it was down. (unless the grid was up, and you were using it to grid balance)

But the point is, have seen no docs that suggest that high voltage DC is designed to come out of the charging port with a home lvl2 charger. (what your saying would mean there is a 300v dc inverter on the wall and again I'd be interested to see the links to the specifications of that hardware.)

 

[timselectric]

Its my understanding that the inverter is still on the truck, and converts the high voltage DC to 220v AC that the normal level 2 charger on the wall takes. The marketing being the truck can backfeed your house if the grid is down. However it would seem that requires the charging station on the wall to be grid sense aware and have other ATS aware features. You wouldn't want to be bleeding back to the grid when it was down. (unless the grid was up, and you were using it to grid balance)

But the point is, have seen no docs that suggest that high voltage DC is designed to come out of the charging port with a home lvl2 charger. (what your saying would mean there is a 300v dc inverter on the wall and again I'd be interested to see the links to the specifications of that hardware.)

Yes, there's an on board inverter for the on board outlets. But, it has the ability to output the 300v DC through the charging station. And then be connected to an inverter and ATS. The extra equipment is provided by Sun Run Solar. But, I'm not buying the inverter from them. I'll be hooking it up to my system. All that I need is included with the truck.