I need help sourcing busbars and fuses to minimize connections

[prskier17]

I am installing 2x 100Ah lithium batteries, 2x 100watt solar panels, MPPT Charger, and a 1000W inverter in a sailboat with an existing DC panel. Attached is my (nearly complete) diagram. I don't have a lot of space where this is being installed and I want to minimize connections. Busbars were recommended on my other thread where I asked for feedback on the overall system. I'm having a hard time figuring out the best way to minimize connections and keep this as compact as possible. I'm planning to add a Class T fuse immediately after the batteries unless this is overkill. If I use a positive busbar, is there a good option for integrated fuses to the other devices? I'm looking at the Victron 6 position Mega fuse holder (https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-Fuse-holder-6-way-MEGA-fuse-EN.pdf ) but the reviews are questionable. Is there anything else like this available? What are other options for a simple busbar / fuse holder? A normal busbar with separate fuse holders would add a lot of connections and bulk to this setup. Thanks!

 

[prskier17]

Any reason this isn't the ideal solution if I go: Batteries > Class-T Fuse > Disconnect Switch > SafetyHub 150 ? The SafetyHub 150 appears to be everything I need and combines the positive busbar (with fuses!) and negative busbar.

SafetyHub 150 Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems

Ignition-protected fuse blocks capable of consolidating and protecting multiple 1A to 200A circuits.

www.bluesea.com

 

[HRTKD]

Eventually, you'll probably want a shunt in the design so you can get an overall state of charge for the battery bank.

The Victron Lynx system is a step up from the two fuse holder/blocks you linked to. If you outgrow either of the linked fuse holders, the Lynx is a good system to move up to. But if you're cramped for space, the Lynx could be a challenge.\

Also, you can hang MRBF fuses off of traditional bus bars to minimize space consumption.

 

[prskier17]

Thanks - I have a shunt as part of my DC panel. I think the SafetyHub 150 is perfect and ordered it an hour ago . I don't think I'll add anything significant to this boat beyond this.

 

[HRTKD]

Thanks - I have a shunt as part of my DC panel. I think the SafetyHub 150 is perfect and ordered it an hour ago . I don't think I'll add anything significant to this boat beyond this.

Everything would have to go through your DC panel for you to get an accurate reading of the state of charge. LiFePO4 voltage is not an accurate indication of state of charge.

 

[prskier17]

Everything would have to go through your DC panel for you to get an accurate reading of the state of charge. LiFePO4 voltage is not an accurate indication of state of charge.

Good point...

 

[Skypower]

Small outboards (9.9?) have very limited charging capacity and are easily overtaxed. That DC to DC charger can draw up to 15 amps from the alternator terminal until the batteries are nearing bulk. That is probably too much for a stater in the small engine. Most have their hands full just charging the small recommended lead acid starting battery. What an alternator is claimed to output isn’t always it’s 100% duty cycle. Probably check it out if you haven’t already.

 

[prskier17]

Small outboards (9.9?) have very limited charging capacity and are easily overtaxed. That DC to DC charger can draw up to 15 amps from the alternator terminal until the batteries are nearing bulk. That is probably too much for a stater in the small engine. Most have their hands full just charging the small recommended lead acid starting battery. What an alternator is claimed to output isn’t always it’s 100% duty cycle. Probably check it out if you haven’t already.

Thanks - this is a potential concern. In an attempt to reduce multiple threads (this one was specific to busbar recommendations), I'm responding to this questions on the other thread here: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/p...l-upgrades-for-my-sailboat.62350/#post-778534