diy solar

diy solar

Need help with fuses and safety of system

bbanjoboy

New Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2023
Messages
10
Location
Arkansas
So after posting my first thread here I found I had a lot to learn. After tweaking my power needs, I believe I have an idea of what may work now. Here's my issue now: I have six brand new LPF12110 12v 110Ah rechargeable sealed lead acid batteries. I need to get fuses for each positive terminal and plan to connect them in parallel. I want them to go to bus bars then to a T class fuse then to my inverter. Am I missing any safety fuses? My biggest question is what size fuses do I need for the positive terminals and what size T fuse and what size bus bars should I get? Any links would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all so much for sharing your wisdom!
 
What kind of loads will you be connecting to the battery bank? What size of inverter?

Is this in an RV? If not - consider going 24v.

For bus bars - you need thick tin- plated copper bars - do NOT get brass ones.

Blue sea makes a good one. My favorite is a Victron PowerIn (you can add fuses lookup how on YouTube). The Power In has both the positive and negative in one device. It only handles 4 - but you can add on.

Fuses protect the wires - not the devices. So to know what size of fuses - we need to know what size of wires.

My assumptions:
#2 wire between batteries and bus bars - use 100a fuse.
After bus bar - use 4/0 wire & 400a fuse.

After your battery buss bar - you should have on the positive wire the fuse and a switch to turn the system off. On the negative cable you should have a shunt based battery monitor - like a Victron Smartshunt or BMV712. That way you can know how full/empty the batteries are.

Then you should go to a distribution bus bar - inverter, Solar charge controller(s), other loads, etc go on this bus bar - anytime you go to a smaller wire - say #6 to the solar charge controller- it needs fused.50a for #6 or a #14 for a light - #14 needs 15a fuse.

If you get a short in any wire - the fuse for that wire will pop at the wires rated capacity.

Did my novel make sense? Or did I screw up the way I typed something…

Good Luck
 
What kind of loads will you be connecting to the battery bank? What size of inverter?

Is this in an RV? If not - consider going 24v.

For bus bars - you need thick tin- plated copper bars - do NOT get brass ones.

Blue sea makes a good one. My favorite is a Victron PowerIn (you can add fuses lookup how on YouTube). The Power In has both the positive and negative in one device. It only handles 4 - but you can add on.

Fuses protect the wires - not the devices. So to know what size of fuses - we need to know what size of wires.

My assumptions:
#2 wire between batteries and bus bars - use 100a fuse.
After bus bar - use 4/0 wire & 400a fuse.

After your battery buss bar - you should have on the positive wire the fuse and a switch to turn the system off. On the negative cable you should have a shunt based battery monitor - like a Victron Smartshunt or BMV712. That way you can know how full/empty the batteries are.

Then you should go to a distribution bus bar - inverter, Solar charge controller(s), other loads, etc go on this bus bar - anytime you go to a smaller wire - say #6 to the solar charge controller- it needs fused.50a for #6 or a #14 for a light - #14 needs 15a fuse.

If you get a short in any wire - the fuse for that wire will pop at the wires rated capacity.

Did my novel make sense? Or did I screw up the way I typed something…

Good Luck
What kind of loads will you be connecting to the battery bank? What size of inverter?

Is this in an RV? If not - consider going 24v.

For bus bars - you need thick tin- plated copper bars - do NOT get brass ones.

Blue sea makes a good one. My favorite is a Victron PowerIn (you can add fuses lookup how on YouTube). The Power In has both the positive and negative in one device. It only handles 4 - but you can add on.

Fuses protect the wires - not the devices. So to know what size of fuses - we need to know what size of wires.

My assumptions:
#2 wire between batteries and bus bars - use 100a fuse.
After bus bar - use 4/0 wire & 400a fuse.

After your battery buss bar - you should have on the positive wire the fuse and a switch to turn the system off. On the negative cable you should have a shunt based battery monitor - like a Victron Smartshunt or BMV712. That way you can know how full/empty the batteries are.

Then you should go to a distribution bus bar - inverter, Solar charge controller(s), other loads, etc go on this bus bar - anytime you go to a smaller wire - say #6 to the solar charge controller- it needs fused.50a for #6 or a #14 for a light - #14 needs 15a fuse.

If you get a short in any wire - the fuse for that wire will pop at the wires rated capacity.

Did my novel make sense? Or did I screw up the way I typed something…

Good Luck
Thanks SO much for the reply.. I'm sorry I haven't gotten back sooner, but this project is on the back burner.. I have been ordering a few things and I have run into a small stumbling block.. The fuses I ordered to put at the positive battery terminals were these: https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Curre...8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I have found that the holes are a bit too small but I can purchase smaller bolts, no problem.. My question is though, that when looking for alternative fuses I found some similar were rated 100 Amp but 32 volt or even higher.. WIll this be an issue for me since I will be running a 12 volt system? Thank you so much!
 
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