I'm looking at purchasing (3) 12v 200ah batteries in parallel for a 5th wheel trailer. The same brand battery offers a 100amp BMS and a 200amp BMS. The trailer is 50 amp. Is there a benefit to using the 200amp BMS? There is about a $50 difference. TIA!
LifePO4 100 vs 200 amp bms
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John Frum
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Are these the batteries?
www.amperetime.com
www.amperetime.com
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Ampere Time 12V 200ah lithium batteries are your perfect choice for solar batteries! 4000+ deep cycles, 10 years lifespan.
www.amperetime.com
Ampere Time 12V 200Ah Plus, 2560Wh LiFePO4 Battery & Built in 200A BMS
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www.amperetime.com
True, but in general, if the increased cost is reasonable, it’s ‘safer’ to allow as much headroom as you can afford.
I would not spend twice as much on 200?A BMSs over 100A BMSs, but for 10% more it would be a no-brainer (at least for me) to purchase BMSs that are designed to handle higher currents (and hence run cooler at target current).
Here is something to consider, for a Multiplus 3000, it would be better to have it at 24v instead of 12v. That would entail one more battery, and a 24v to 12v converter to run the slides and other 12v stuff - lights, etc.
If it’s doable I would highly recommend it - if not 12v works (that’s what I have in my MotorHome).
Actually instead of getting two 12v batteries and putting them in series to get 24v - get the 24v batteries if you go that route.
If it’s doable I would highly recommend it - if not 12v works (that’s what I have in my MotorHome).
Actually instead of getting two 12v batteries and putting them in series to get 24v - get the 24v batteries if you go that route.
robstrom
New Member
Are the BATTERIES any different?
If not, what makes battery A100 amp discharge, battery B 200?
It's the same battery.
A higher/lower amp BMS overlying the same structure?
I call bullshit.
If not, what makes battery A100 amp discharge, battery B 200?
It's the same battery.
A higher/lower amp BMS overlying the same structure?
I call bullshit.
robstrom
New Member
They WILL be dogshit, you WILL be unhappy, and you WILL be pissed that you bought on price alone.
I looked at the batteries - the only difference I could find are the bms 100a vs 200a and the price $649 vs $689. So is it worth $40 per battery to have a bms that has more fets so it can output more…
With a Multiplus 3000, at 12v, it might be… (because then when you are running the Multiplus at max, you are not running the bms’s at close to max - you are running them below 50%).
I would NOT get them because they appear to be missing one key feature for RV use. That is low temperature protection. I RV too many times in spring/Fall & Winter when the morning temps are below 32 degrees. I want as much cold temp protection as possible.
But I don’t know enough about the battery vendor to say if they are good or not.
With a Multiplus 3000, at 12v, it might be… (because then when you are running the Multiplus at max, you are not running the bms’s at close to max - you are running them below 50%).
I would NOT get them because they appear to be missing one key feature for RV use. That is low temperature protection. I RV too many times in spring/Fall & Winter when the morning temps are below 32 degrees. I want as much cold temp protection as possible.
But I don’t know enough about the battery vendor to say if they are good or not.
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
so far most reviews have been quite good, so explain your reasoning
ianganderton
Auckland, NZ
Just my 2 cents worth
The difference in infastructure needed between 100A and 200A is pretty significant. Not just the BMS will be different but also likely the cross section of any connections like busbars and cables.
Batteries are a significant investment with a long lifespan. I like the motto “buy well, buy once!”
My 12V 2000W inverter draws approx 180A and I’ve erred on the side of caution with any cable sizes. I would rather slightly over engineer and just do the job once than find myself trying to run the system against its limits and blow fuses or get hot wires.
A 3000W inverter at nominal 12V voltage is 250A. You need the 200A version anyway no matter how you set things up @ 12V
The difference in infastructure needed between 100A and 200A is pretty significant. Not just the BMS will be different but also likely the cross section of any connections like busbars and cables.
Batteries are a significant investment with a long lifespan. I like the motto “buy well, buy once!”
My 12V 2000W inverter draws approx 180A and I’ve erred on the side of caution with any cable sizes. I would rather slightly over engineer and just do the job once than find myself trying to run the system against its limits and blow fuses or get hot wires.
A 3000W inverter at nominal 12V voltage is 250A. You need the 200A version anyway no matter how you set things up @ 12V
He’s got 3 12V batteries in parallel, each with it’s own BMS.
Assuming 90% efficiency, 3kW sustained output will draw 280A @ 12V, but I would certainly be ready to invest 10% more to assure that my BMSs were rated for more than twice that sustained current level than a mere 107%…
I agree with you and mfg stated that there was only a $50 difference in price. I have a 3000/6000w inverter but my two 280Ah batteries each have a 250a BMS. This was because I built one and then built another later and wanted to keep the same BMS.
Whilst I have a 3000w inverter I have never been close to running it near maximum. I don’t know about others, so perhaps that is what mfg needs to consider. To some $150 is a fair whack of money.
Plenty of good information posted for mfg to make a decision
.Thanks to all for the great information. I do now understand the pro's and con's to consider.Plenty of good information posted for mfg to make a decision
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