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LVX6048WP Setup Issues and Warning Codes

YotaPower

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2023
Messages
6
Location
Ottawa
Hi all,

I have recently installed 7.5kW of panels on my roof and the MPP LVX6048WP seemed like the perfect inverter for me. Now that I have it powered up, I am having issues configuring the settings and am getting a warning 13 - low battery voltage.

The system is 16 panels total, two strings of 8 in parallel, AP Systems rapid shutdown modules, a combiner box with DC breaker, surge protectors and a DC disconnect before going into the inverter. The system is grid tied, I do not have a battery. When I was configuring the settings, I have set it up for Grid-Tie, but am still getting a warning 13 for low battery voltage. The panels aren't producing as they are still covered in snow, but I would like to make sure I have everything set up correctly.

Does anyone have a list of the settings they used to set up their LVW6048WP for Grid-Tie Only?

I am hoping that it is just a setting I have missed and not something wrong with the inverter. From the looks of it, I should have done some more research before going with this unit, but I'm here now....


I purchased all of the equipment from the SolarPowerStore, they have been an absolute nightmare to work with but I'll save that story for another day.

I have been emailing MPP for the last two weeks and they still have not answered my question, they just seem to avoid answering it or answer a question I didn't ask.


Any help would be very much appreciated, I'm pretty bummed out with my first solar experience so far.

-YotaPower
 
Hi YotaPower,

I must say that I have had a similar experience with SolarPowerStore Canada. Terrible service.

As for your issue, my system is quite a bit different as I am only off grid, with a battery bank, same inverter.

The only peice of advice I can offer would be to go back through every setting and ensure everything is set up to go from the PV direct to the load.

Hopefully somebody with experience with a battery-less set up can chime in.
 
Hi YotaPower,

I must say that I have had a similar experience with SolarPowerStore Canada. Terrible service.

As for your issue, my system is quite a bit different as I am only off grid, with a battery bank, same inverter.

The only peice of advice I can offer would be to go back through every setting and ensure everything is set up to go from the PV direct to the load.

Hopefully somebody with experience with a battery-less set up can chime in.
You can set the inverter for grid tie with backup, grid tie only, or off grid. Make sure you are not in one of the grid tie with backup modes. Grid tie only should have "allow to charge battery" unchecked. You need to use the PC software to set the parameters in solarpower. See page 26 in the manual.
 
Hi YotaPower,

I must say that I have had a similar experience with SolarPowerStore Canada. Terrible service.

As for your issue, my system is quite a bit different as I am only off grid, with a battery bank, same inverter.

The only peice of advice I can offer would be to go back through every setting and ensure everything is set up to go from the PV direct to the load.

Hopefully somebody with experience with a battery-less set up can chime in.
Hey KTime, I am going through a number of issues at the moment trying to get my off grid system up and running with the same inverter, would you be up to sharing your settings, and maybe a photo of your wiring set up at the inverter? I'm off grid as well, couldn't get it to invert when connected via "PYL", changed to "USE" and now I have power from my battery bank. It will recognize my generator (honda eu6500si) and power all the loads, but will not charge the batteries. I am using OFF Grid #1 mode currently, the gen setting is enabled, and it is set at priority SUB. Any help would be appreciated.

Kevin
 
Disregard KTime, after 2 weeks of screwing around with various settings, I have managed to get the inverter to actually charge the battery bank and run all loads.

Further, I'm going to attach the settings I have had to use in hope that it will save someone else the frustration I have had to endure since installing this inverter. I've been living off grid for 12 years, this MPP inverter has had to be the most unfriendly piece of kit I have had to install and trouble shoot. It partially started with the manual in the box, it was version #1, and after I upgraded to the most current software I was on version 1.4, mind you I did not know that some of the settings had changed and or been added, which just made it all the more challenging. Couple that with poor tech support, which consists of 1 email per week when you factor in business hours and the time change to China. Knowing what I know now, I should have just gone with name brand gear and saved myself a lot of trouble, and fuel running my generator for a week straight.

I have the SOK batteries (500a bank) and managed to set them up to communicate fine, even got the 6048 to connect to them under Pylon 485, but the inverter would not power up, it had to be set to "USE". This kind of negates the whole concept of having your batteries communicate with your inverter for maximum efficiency etc. I was set on OFF Grid #1 and had made all kind of adjustments, did all kinds of research (how I ended up here), watched way more youtube videos than is probably good for one person, then stumbled upon the fix. After trying what I figured was every other option, I decided to change the off grid settings, #2 didn't fit my needs well, but I thought I'd give #3 a go, miracle upon miracles and I was in business. Why it wouldn't work on #1 or #2 is beyond me, doesn't make any sense what so ever, but after 2 weeks of this I wasn't touching anything!

I have since tried re-connecting with the batteries and Lithium settings via the supplied cables etc, still no love there, frankly I can live without that feature, the batteries BMS will take care of themselves. If anyone is interested, my Honda eu6500si powers the charger and all loads with ease, right up to the full 120 amps (tested). However, you have to start the generator with the ECO Throttle in the Off position, or there won't be enough ooomf to connect and get up and charging, it just keeps dropping out as per what you will see on the screen. I have an auto start system that allows me to start up with eco off and after 10 minutes of warm up, it will turn it on and the generator and inverter/charger adjust and keep going fine. I will be installing another 4,000 watts of solar once the snow melts, hoping to eliminate any generator use in the winter time, we'll see.

One of the worst things about this inverter is the Noise, the fans are on 24/7, it sounds like somebody walked into your home with a Leaf Blower going and just left it on the floor for you to enjoy! I actually pulled out my sound meter to get a reading, it's 70 decibels, just for shits and giggles I went outside to test the sound of my exhaust on the generator, it was 68, how crazy is that. The generator doesn't actually sound that bad, it's kind of low rumble, not the inverter, it's just down right annoying, we have to power it off at night just so we can sleep. I thought about putting this thing outside because it's supposedly water resistant, but if I'm sitting down by the lake having a beverage, I don't want to listen to it out there either. I ordered up some thermostats and a couple of Noctua fans, hopefully in a couple of weeks I will have some peace and quiet back. The fan noise is enough for me to NOT recommend this to anyone, unless this is going in an out building somewhere, even then it would suck to have to work in that space. Think twice before you buy this thing.

Kevin
 

Attachments

  • LVX6048WP Settings.pdf
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One of the worst things about this inverter is the Noise, the fans are on 24/7, it sounds like somebody walked into your home with a Leaf Blower going and just left it on the floor for you to enjoy! I actually pulled out my sound meter to get a reading, it's 70 decibels, just for shits and giggles I went outside to test the sound of my exhaust on the generator, it was 68, how crazy is that. The generator doesn't actually sound that bad, it's kind of low rumble, not the inverter, it's just down right annoying, we have to power it off at night just so we can sleep. I thought about putting this thing outside because it's supposedly water resistant, but if I'm sitting down by the lake having a beverage, I don't want to listen to it out there either. I ordered up some thermostats and a couple of Noctua fans, hopefully in a couple of weeks I will have some peace and quiet back. The fan noise is enough for me to NOT recommend this to anyone, unless this is going in an out building somewhere, even then it would suck to have to work in that space. Think twice before you buy this thing.

Kevin
Believe it or not the Fan didn't use to be that way. This is a function of the Latest firmware, before that It was relatively quiet unit unless you put it under heavy load. Now it runs 24/7.
 
Believe it or not the Fan didn't use to be that way. This is a function of the Latest firmware, before that It was relatively quiet unit unless you put it under heavy load. Now it runs 24/7.
For anyone interested, I found out that Unistrut from Home Depot works fairly well as a substantial battery rack for Seplos DIY Mason kits. The 280ah Masons are 10 inches high, and the 135ah Masons are 8 inches high. I am able to rack all seven of my batteries in one rack. (3 x 280ah and 4 x 135ah).
The rack needs to hold over 1000lbs of weight, and I have not found anything on the market that was reasonable to handle that weight and seven batteries (the signature solar rack only holds 6, and not the size of the 280ah Masons.
All together, it cost around $300 to build. (Those Unistrut feet are like $34 each!)
 

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Just to follow up on where I'm at:

I was finally able to do a firmware update after getting a RS232 to USB cable that "had the right chipset in it". This did not fix the issue, I'm still getting a 13 error code for low battery voltage, even though the system is configured for grid-tie only. MPP is telling me they can fix it with another firmware update, but can't give me a timeline on when that firmware will be available.

SolarPowerStore has been completely useless in the matter and the owners seem to be in "meetings" whenever I call and won't return phone calls.

Hopefully I'll have a more positive update in the near future.
 
For anyone interested, I found out that Unistrut from Home Depot works fairly well as a substantial battery rack for Seplos DIY Mason kits. The 280ah Masons are 10 inches high, and the 135ah Masons are 8 inches high. I am able to rack all seven of my batteries in one rack. (3 x 280ah and 4 x 135ah).
The rack needs to hold over 1000lbs of weight, and I have not found anything on the market that was reasonable to handle that weight and seven batteries (the signature solar rack only holds 6, and not the size of the 280ah Masons.
All together, it cost around $300 to build. (Those Unistrut feet are like $34 each!)
That is pretty cool. Didn't think of that. How about the actual rectangular plate the batteries are supposed to stay on, how much are those and do you have to to the one your used there?
 
That is pretty cool. Didn't think of that. How about the actual rectangular plate the batteries are supposed to stay on, how much are those and do you have to to the one your used there?
Seplos did not have a base for the 280ah kits when I purchased mine. They now do have one, but not sure how much with shipping. Since I have 3 of the larger masons, and 4 of the 135ah size, I cannot stack them anyway. I also wanted to be able to pull one out for service, so a rack made more sense.
This is going to get interesting, since the rack is exposed to the weather, so it needs to be Hurricane proof. All my components are NEMA 3R, but there are no NEMA 3R racks for 1200LBS of Seplos batteries.
The wheelbase on the bottom of the rack I found at ULINE: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-4820/Dollies/Heavy-Duty-Steel-Dolly-36-x-24
It holds the weight if needed.
Next step is to put together the DC components in the VEVOR enclosure, and build a waterproof shed around the rack. Probably going to make a plexiglass door for the front so I can see and get to the battery control panels.
 
Seplos did not have a base for the 280ah kits when I purchased mine. They now do have one, but not sure how much with shipping. Since I have 3 of the larger masons, and 4 of the 135ah size, I cannot stack them anyway. I also wanted to be able to pull one out for service, so a rack made more sense.
This is going to get interesting, since the rack is exposed to the weather, so it needs to be Hurricane proof. All my components are NEMA 3R, but there are no NEMA 3R racks for 1200LBS of Seplos batteries.
The wheelbase on the bottom of the rack I found at ULINE: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/H-4820/Dollies/Heavy-Duty-Steel-Dolly-36-x-24
It holds the weight if needed.
Next step is to put together the DC components in the VEVOR enclosure, and build a waterproof shed around the rack. Probably going to make a plexiglass door for the front so I can see and get to the battery control panels.
Regardless this is a great find, I really thank you because I have a couple of use cases for those things.
But I'm confused do you have it sitting the whole rack sitting on a wheel base or the unistrut feet?
Do you have a link to the VEVOR enclosure you are thinking of?
 
Regardless this is a great find, I really thank you because I have a couple of use cases for those things.
But I'm confused do you have it sitting the whole rack sitting on a wheel base or the unistrut feet?
Do you have a link to the VEVOR enclosure you are thinking of?
I was going to weld the Unistrut to the wheel base, but then I found the feet. I am using the wheel base for the bottom battery, which lets me keep the height of the rack a few inches lower, since I dont need the slides for that battery. The base became my sizing tool for the width ans depth of the rack, since a Mason 280ah is the same size as the base. The wheel base wheels do not have a way to lock them in position, which was an oversight on my part when I bought it. I didnt want the batteries rolling around once installed. The base is now secure inside the rack frame.

I already bought the Vevor enclosure for the DC side. It will enclose the fuses, breakers, Victron shunt, Raspberry Pi for SolarAssistant, and maybe the busbars.

 

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I was going to weld the Unistrut to the wheel base, but then I found the feet. I am using the wheel base for the bottom battery, which lets me keep the height of the rack a few inches lower, since I dont need the slides for that battery. The base became my sizing tool for the width ans depth of the rack, since a Mason 280ah is the same size as the base. The wheel base wheels do not have a way to lock them in position, which was an oversight on my part when I bought it. I didnt want the batteries rolling around once installed. The base is now secure inside the rack frame.

I already bought the Vevor enclosure for the DC side. It will enclose the fuses, breakers, Victron shunt, Raspberry Pi for SolarAssistant, and maybe the busbars.

Thanks!
 
Believe it or not the Fan didn't use to be that way. This is a function of the Latest firmware, before that It was relatively quiet unit unless you put it under heavy load. Now it runs 24/7.
Any idea how to revert back to the previous firmware? Thanks
 
Any idea how to revert back to the previous firmware? Thanks
If you have a copy of the previous ones you could try, but I don't have a copy of them. And I don't know if the firmware update software would actually let you revert.
 
New update:

MPP sent me another firmware update, the warning code and beeping have stopped, but the battery and 42V is still flashing. My guess is that they just overwrote something in the firmware to remove the error. I guess that would be fine, if the rest of the system worked as it was supposed to.

The new issue is that once I turn the DC breakers on, I now get a fault code 13 with a steady beep. The inverter shows that PV power is coming in, but nothing is going out to the grid. According to the manual this is a code for "PV ISO fault - The resistance between PV and ground is too low." When I turn the DC breakers off, the fault doesn't seem to go away.

MPP solar has requested I take a video an send it to them as the next step.

Solar Power Store is still missing in action. What a headache.
 
Just to follow up on where I'm at:

I was finally able to do a firmware update after getting a RS232 to USB cable that "had the right chipset in it". This did not fix the issue, I'm still getting a 13 error code for low battery voltage, even though the system is configured for grid-tie only. MPP is telling me they can fix it with another firmware update, but can't give me a timeline on when that firmware will be available.

SolarPowerStore has been completely useless in the matter and the owners seem to be in "meetings" whenever I call and won't return phone calls.

Hopefully I'll have a more positive update in the near future.
@YotaPower is the error you are getting a Warning 13 or a Fault 13? My story is almost identical to yours but mine was an F13 ISO fault. Also what version firmware did you upgrade too? V 1.34?
 
@kyle_wils I believe we emailed a bit after I saw some of your Youtube videos.

I was getting a warning 13 code, they seemed to have "fixed" that in the last firmware update they sent, but now I'm getting a F13 ISO fault. I am on V 1.35 firmware now.

What was the resolution for you? Was the inverter not outputting anything when you were getting this code?

Thanks!
 
I had to manually flip the breaker for each string every morning to get the F13 not to show up.

@YotaPower can you send me V1.35 firmware and I'll see what it does on my end and I'll get you update. I just upgraded for v1.34 a couple days ago using firmware link on mpp site and it solved my F13 ISO Fault for 2 days..... but now it's back.

If you do a full power cycle and turn on your Strings one at a time (wait 1-2 minutes between each string) will the F13 ISO fault still show up?

My next step is going to be moving the string to the extra port to the right for each terminal. I am curious if there is an issue with the push in connector itself of the inverter. Are your strings installed on the left port or right port currently out of curiosity?
 
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