More on 50 amps versus 30 amps with adapter

[LarryJForman]

Since I am going 100 percent electric, I wanted more than 30 amps and CamoGreg showed me a 50 amps splitter cable with 30 amp male connector and a 20 amp male connector. I like this as an option if the 50 amp service is not available. I will likely normally use 50 amp service, but if that is not available, it would be nice to have 30 amps plus 20 amps (or maybe 15 amps for a total of 45 or 50 amps). My question is if anyone has successfully used the Y splitter cable. The cautions and user comments are that this Y splitter setup will trip GCFI. A couple of listed cables state that as a caution and others posted negative reviews when just the cable alone was plugged in a tripped the GCFI. The comments were that it simply does not work. I hope someone has successfully gotten this approach to work. Thanks.

​

 

[A.Justice]

Here's a good discussion about that. If it were me, I wouldn't use the splitter.

Can 20 amp and 30 amp be used simultaneously? - iRV2 Forums

Please settle this for me. As if it's possible to settle anything on the Internet If the post has separate 30 amp and 20 amp breakers can they both be used simultaneously?

www.irv2.com

 

[JeffreyD]

I have used this splitter and successfully ran 2 roof AC units. The thing to remember is you have 2 separate circuits in a "50 amp" coach that each deliver 50 amps for 100 amps total available. But I emphasize....there are two different lines and different things draw from those two lines.

 

[CamoGreg]

I have used this splitter and successfully ran 2 roof AC units. The thing to remember is you have 2 separate circuits in a "50 amp" coach that each deliver 50 amps for 100 amps total available. But I emphasize....there are two different lines and different things draw from those two lines.

The OP does not have a 50amp coach. He has a 30amp rig and trying to gain more than a regular 30amp pedestal supplies.

 

[JeffreyD]

The OP does not have a 50amp coach. He has a 30amp rig and trying to gain more than a regular 30amp pedestal supplies.

Sorry, he said he "I like that as an option when I don't have 50 amp" so assumed he has a 50 amp coach as I do.

 

[time2roll]

I recommend a separate inlet and transfer switch to power a single item such as the air conditioner. The transfer switch will separate the neutrals to avoid tripping the GFCI. Use a common extension cord (#12 wire) from the 20 amp GFCI to the inlet.

20 amp KISAE transfer switch $70

power inlet $40

Shop around

 

[JeffreyD]

I recommend a separate inlet and transfer switch to power a single item such as the air conditioner. The transfer switch will separate the neutrals to avoid tripping the GFCI. Use a common extension cord (#12 wire) from the 20 amp GFCI to the inlet.



20 amp KISAE transfer switch $70



power inlet $40



Shop around



This is a great point. If you use the 30/20 amp splitter with a GFCI it will trip.

 

[LarryJForman]

Here's a good discussion about that. If it were me, I wouldn't use the splitter.

Can 20 amp and 30 amp be used simultaneously? - iRV2 Forums

Please settle this for me. As if it's possible to settle anything on the Internet If the post has separate 30 amp and 20 amp breakers can they both be used simultaneously?

www.irv2.com

This is a WONDERFUL discussion. I now understand the issue with the GFCI and even more concerning possible issues with tripping breakers that might not be accessible to me and potential damage with some older wiring. There are enough gotchas that this is not worth risking. I agree with you about not using the splitter. My situation is that my coach is currently a 30 amp service but since I have removed the propane tank and added a lot of 120 VAC appliances (for a 22 ft 1969 Class A RV and no slide outs) I am planning on migrating to 50 amps but wanted another option. Having found that and not wanting to take the risks, I'll make my breaker panel for 50 amps. FWIW, I have 600 Ah of LiFePO4 Battle Born GC2s, a 3000 W pure sinewave AIMS inverter/charger/transfer switch and after installation 800 watts of HQST glass solar panels.

 

[A.Justice]

This is a WONDERFUL discussion. I now understand the issue with the GFCI and even more concerning possible issues with tripping breakers that might not be accessible to me and potential damage with some older wiring. There are enough gotchas that this is not worth risking. I agree with you about not using the splitter. My situation is that my coach is currently a 30 amp service but since I have removed the propane tank and added a lot of 120 VAC appliances (for a 22 ft 1969 Class A RV and no slide outs) I am planning on migrating to 50 amps but wanted another option. Having found that and not wanting to take the risks, I'll make my breaker panel for 50 amps. FWIW, I have 600 Ah of LiFePO4 Battle Born GC2s, a 3000 W pure sinewave AIMS inverter/charger/transfer switch and after installation 800 watts of HQST glass solar panels.

I built a tiny "camper" trailer over the last few years. I didn't like that I could only run large loads on 30a shore power, so I added a charger that's under 15a AC so I could charge the batteries continuously, and use larger loads off the inverter.

If you want to squeeze all the extra power you can out of a specific plug, I would get a battery charger that pretty much maxes it out, and run that all the time.

 

[JeffreyD]

This is for the experts, but if your coach is wired for 30 amp, and you up the breaker to 50 amp without upgrading wire runs inside the coach that may only be sized for the cumulative 30 amp draw, don't you run the risk of fire? I know that the wire inside of the 50 amp cord from my coach to the pedestal is much heavier than that of the cord on my former 30 amp Class C. Maybe the breaker panel sorts it to multiple 15 and 20 amp circuits in a fashion that is safe, but be a bit careful here. My solution on my former Class C was to simply run a separate extension cord from the pedestal into my bedroom window to run an additional portable air con unit.

 

[Supervstech]

This is for the experts, but if your coach is wired for 30 amp, and you up the breaker to 50 amp without upgrading wire runs inside the coach that may only be sized for the cumulative 30 amp draw, don't you run the risk of fire? I know that the wire inside of the 50 amp cord from my coach to the pedestal is much heavier than that of the cord on my former 30 amp Class C. Maybe the breaker panel sorts it to multiple 15 and 20 amp circuits in a fashion that is safe, but be a bit careful here. My solution on my former Class C was to simply run a separate extension cord from the pedestal into my bedroom window to run an additional portable air con unit.

Correct.

 

[Supervstech]

This is a WONDERFUL discussion. I now understand the issue with the GFCI and even more concerning possible issues with tripping breakers that might not be accessible to me and potential damage with some older wiring. There are enough gotchas that this is not worth risking. I agree with you about not using the splitter. My situation is that my coach is currently a 30 amp service but since I have removed the propane tank and added a lot of 120 VAC appliances (for a 22 ft 1969 Class A RV and no slide outs) I am planning on migrating to 50 amps but wanted another option. Having found that and not wanting to take the risks, I'll make my breaker panel for 50 amps. FWIW, I have 600 Ah of LiFePO4 Battle Born GC2s, a 3000 W pure sinewave AIMS inverter/charger/transfer switch and after installation 800 watts of HQST glass solar panels.

What have you added.
3600W from a 30A input will power quite a lot.
Use high efficiency items. Moderate simultaneously operating loads to stay under the wattage draw, and it is doable...

 

[time2roll]

This is for the experts, but if your coach is wired for 30 amp, and you up the breaker to 50 amp without upgrading wire runs inside the coach that may only be sized for the cumulative 30 amp draw, don't you run the risk of fire? I know that the wire inside of the 50 amp cord from my coach to the pedestal is much heavier than that of the cord on my former 30 amp Class C. Maybe the breaker panel sorts it to multiple 15 and 20 amp circuits in a fashion that is safe, but be a bit careful here. My solution on my former Class C was to simply run a separate extension cord from the pedestal into my bedroom window to run an additional portable air con unit.

Yes to migrate to 50 amps a new power center should be installed, new 50 amp cord, new 50 amp wire from the panel to the cord entrance.

 

[corn18]

We camp a lot at state parks where there is only a 30A hookup. We can run both 15k air conditioners off a 30A connection. Both have microair soft starts in them. Each one draws 1625W. I cannot run any other AC loads, though. With one AC running, we can run the microwave. But we cannot have the electric griddle going. And if momma fires up the hair dryer, then all bets are off

Switching to 50A would require new wiring to the panel and a new panel, as mentioned. Then you would need to split the loads so both legs had a generally equal share of load. Here's my panel. The stuff on the left is on L1 and the stuff on the right is on L2:



Another option is to install a Victron Multiplus 12/3000 that has the power share capability. When you need more than 30A, the MP will kick in some inverter power to help out. I use that when we are on our small 1800W genset. Haven't had a chance to use it on 30A shore power, but it will be handy. This could be installed on a 30A or 50A system.

 

[rmaddy]

When you need more than 30A, the MP will kick in some battery power to help out.

Fixed that for you.

 

[LarryJForman]

This is for the experts, but if your coach is wired for 30 amp, and you up the breaker to 50 amp without upgrading wire runs inside the coach that may only be sized for the cumulative 30 amp draw, don't you run the risk of fire? I know that the wire inside of the 50 amp cord from my coach to the pedestal is much heavier than that of the cord on my former 30 amp Class C. Maybe the breaker panel sorts it to multiple 15 and 20 amp circuits in a fashion that is safe, but be a bit careful here. My solution on my former Class C was to simply run a separate extension cord from the pedestal into my bedroom window to run an additional portable air con unit.

Thanks for the warning. I will be redoing ALL the 110 wiring inside the coach. I will replace the 3 circuit breaker panel that exists with about 8 circuit breakers for every run. I will be adding a 50 amp input socket and running to the AIMS 3000 watt pure sinewave inverter/charger/transfer switch. I am thinking of running one side of the 50 amp service to the roof A/C and the other half of the 50 amp service to everything else.

 

[CamoGreg]

Here's my panel. The stuff on the left is on L1 and the stuff on the right is on L2:

View attachment 84108

Another option is to install a Victron Multiplus 12/3000

Are your breakers in the OEM position or did you move them around for more critical loads serviced by the multi on L1?

 

[corn18]

Are your breakers in the OEM position or did you move them around for more critical loads serviced by the multi on L1?

OEM. The MPII I have is split phase so it services both L1 and L2.

 

[LarryJForman]

I recommend a separate inlet and transfer switch to power a single item such as the air conditioner. The transfer switch will separate the neutrals to avoid tripping the GFCI. Use a common extension cord (#12 wire) from the 20 amp GFCI to the inlet.

20 amp KISAE transfer switch $70

power inlet $40

Shop around

Thanks for that idea. I need to review how the AIMS 3000 W inverter/charger/transfer switch works or if I need to add another transfer switch. That might be a great solution. I am planning on having our battery bank drive the AIMS 3000 W inverter for the roof A/C when on the road, so I am not sure how to wire in another transfer switch. It might be simple, just not sure right now.

 

[LarryJForman]

Thanks for that idea. I need to review how the AIMS 3000 W inverter/charger/transfer switch works or if I need to add another transfer switch. That might be a great solution. I am planning on having our battery bank drive the AIMS 3000 W inverter for the roof A/C when on the road, so I am not sure how to wire in another transfer switch. It might be simple, just not sure right now.

So I looked up the KISAE transfer switch and I think I understand. While it says to only use with a KISAE 2400W and below inverter, it seems that it would work for my AIMS 3000W inverter/charger/transfer switch. This would take the separate 20 amp input and transfer it to the roof A/C, when power comes from that 20 amp source and otherwise would take the output from the AIMS 3000W inverter/charger/transfer switch. I think this means that I would be required to run the roof A/C from either the 20 amp input or the batteries. So I could run the rest from the 50 amp service or optionally use a 30 amp adapter if 50 amp service was not available. There should not be any issues with the GFCI so this gets me where I wanted to go as long as I have that second 20 amp input for the roof A/C. This means I could power from state parks without 50 amp and run 20 and 30 amp service with no GFCI issues, if I am correctly understanding how this works.