Need Advice from the Caribbean

[FullNuke]

Good Morning - I am looking for some professional advice on how I should go about changing my inverters to a Anker Solix F3800; I don't mind purchasing two because the return on investment would be achieved - I already have 20 solar panels installed and would like to plug the DC cables into my Anker Solix F3800; reason for doing so is basically; I would like to use as much harnessed sun power during the day and night and get away from the grid; I don't mind using the grid but my goal is to get my return on my investment. Running my pool motor through out the day only typically cost me about $300.00 a month; we pay about .50 cents per kwh. I also would like to purchase the smart home panel for it to be able to do the conversions from grid to off grid on its own. I do not live on the island full time.

That being said; I have the following setup and the breaker box pictured below; my plan is to purchase the Anker Solix F3800 and an expansion battery. We have outages about 3 times a week for only an hour on average. As you can see we have two inverters; and I am pretty sure we are not using the solar power efficiently. We recently upgraded the main breaker panel for the main house and the apartment below which connects to a subpanel; I labeled everything for you.

 

[DIYrich]

What is your current system not doing? Might be cheaper and better to upgrade to lifepo4 batteries.

Looks like you have 10kw of inverters, and solar panels wired for atleast 100v.

The "panel" for the Anker Solix F3800 appears to be around 40v. I couldn't find the DC voltage input range, so you might have to rewire the panels to be compatible.

 

[FullNuke]

Hi DIYrich - I don't mind rewiring the panels or at least finding what the DC Voltage is. That is a great question about what my current system is not doing... the current system is only powering the bottom right hand breakers when the power goes off; it automatically feed power to these breakers; you can see the wires going into the bottom of these breakers in the main panel box that I showed; I think I rather have a cleaner look with the Anker Solix F3800 and hope to at least power the labeled "Apartment SubPanel". Maybe the solution is to just feed the current wires into the subpanel breaker from the bottom instead of the bottom right breakers.

The apartment subpanel has 2 minisplits; a 1 HP pool motor and a small hot water tankless ecosmart water heater.

because that is where the pool motor is located; my goal would be to power the entire property with solar as much as it can to save money from the utility company.

If am need to upgrade the LifePo4 batteries; than I would rather spend the extra grand or two to get something more modern.

 

[DIYrich]

For $3,000 (price of one Anker Solix F3800) you can build a 15kWh LiFePO4 battery, 5 times the capacity of one Anker).

With 10kw of inverters, I would look at wiring the inverters to supply all your loads. You would need to do that anyway with switching to Anker.

I'm guessing you have about 4kw of panels. To store one day of production that you don't use right away, you need atleast 15kwh of battery (double that for lead acid). That would get you to close to maximizing self consumption.

 

[FullNuke]

Could you send links of what you recommend purchasing? LiFePO4 battery? with 10KW of inverters? How would these automatically switch from grid to no grid? Do I have to purchase a smart panel; I am only there half the year so it would have to be done automatically

Also how can I test or find out how many KW I get from my panels? I can simply use a voltage meter? I believe half is wired to one inverter (EMSUN) and the other to the second inverter (GINLONG); you can see the two lines (black and red) going to each inverter.

 

[DIYrich]

Do you want to do it yourself? You will have to learn how to program the inverters. Do you have an electrician or solar company you trust?

What DIY stuff can you buy locally or shipped at a reasonable cost? Specifically 5kWh lifep04 rack batteries?

Are you handy? Feel like building a lifep04 battery from 16 lifep04 cells and a bms?

You probably need an electrician to sort out the electrical wiring for the inverters to supply all your loads.

 

[FullNuke]

Yes - I would like to do it myself; that is probably why I wanted to use the Anker since it looks fairly easy but I am very handy when it comes to construction (I am a GC); and I also do have a VERY reliable electrician on hand on the island that can help me once everything is setup to do the wiring.

Since I have the solar panels installed I would just like to utilize the panels to its max to provide power during the day, use batteries during outages (happens twice a week for an hour max) and whatever the sun energy doesn't provide to power up the house I can use the energy provided from the utility company.

I don't mind spending for quality products as this home is going to stay within the family a long time; but the pool motor has to run everyday DURING the DAY. AT NIGHT THERE IS A TIMER TO SHUT IT OFF (main expense). Unfortunately the breaker that supplies the pool motor power is in the "APARTMENT SUBPANEL" but I can hook up the inverter to the SUBPANEL of the APARTMENT. Best case scenario; I would like to power the entire property including the main house and apartment with as much sun power as I can ; I do not want to add extra panels; just use these existing panels as efficiently as possible to save money from not paying the utility company 50 cents p kwh; if I can't produce enough sun power it is not a huge deal for me as my family only visits the island a few months of the year.

Shipping anything to the island is very easy from the states so that is not an issue takes about a week.

I also believe the reason why there are two inverters is because one of the inverters powered the pool motor during the day only; when you switch that nob from 2 to 1; it only turns on the attached breaker (the bottom right breakers) when there the SUN is out then goes black; that was great but during the construction the pool motor line was CUT so we had to put the pool motor to the SUBPANEL APARTMENT. We can't have this happen now during when the SUN is out because the entire apartment will be dark and the pool motor too.

 

[DIYrich]

Can you draw a diagram of how everything is connected to what?

Do you have 2 isolar inverters?

Are you split phase 120/240 like the USA? If not, what power do you have?

Does thus look like a manual for your inverter?

https://invertoare-easun.ro/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/Easun5KP.pdf

 

[FullNuke]

The last pictures that I have of the setup is attached. The EMSUN inverter is connected to the batteries (with DC solar connection coming in) and the Ginlong inverter (with its own DC solar connection coming in) is fed directly to the main-box for only 3 breakers (it was done at random when we upgraded the panel).

I read about the Sol-Ark 12K Hybrid Inverter? Is this something that I can use with these solar panels? Toss out these old inverters and just plug the Sol-Ark 12 Hybrid Inverter to the main box? With the purchase of new batteries?

It doesn't have to be the Sol-Ark since that is probably the most expensive but any other Hybrid Inverter that is recommended? The best case would be to plug both solar connections coming in from the solar panels into one Hybrid Inverter and than running the wire to the main breaker box and setup the NEW inverter to use as much sun power / charge batteries / and least amount of grid based on the time and usage? When we are not there I am pretty sure we can just use sun power and battery.

 

[DIYrich]

I read about the Sol-Ark 12K Hybrid Inverter? Is this something that I can use with these solar panels? Toss out these old inverters and just plug the Sol-Ark 12 Hybrid Inverter to the main box? With the purchase of new batteries?

yes, sol-ark would be a good upgrade. 8k, 12k, or 15k. The eg4 18kpv is also worth looking at.

If you can move 300#, the eg4 powerpro battery is worth considering, especially if you go the eg4 18kpv route.

Have your main power come into the solark, and the output replace your current grid line to the panel. Put all the solar on the inverter. Attach battery. Done.

 

[FullNuke]

Yes - this is kind of what I was thinking to make this very simple... I do not want buy something that I don't need but what would you recommend as far as 8K, 12K or 15K; I guess we know that number with is connected to my panel at the moment; attached.

What do you mean by if you can move "300#"? eg4 powerpro battery is worth considering, especially if you go the eg4 18kpv route.?

What do you mean by replace your current grid line to the panel? I am assuming this means "get on the roof" (not a problem) and wire all the panels together to one feed line and insert the new single line into the Sol-Ark; and then connect the LifePO4 batteries. (RECOMMENDATION ON THE BATTERIES)?

Last question: Do I have to measure what my solar panels produce or can I just simply plug it in to the solark? I guess there is a limit on the inverter of how much power can come in from the solar? I do not want AC Charging for the batteries.

Last Last Question: How can I find out how much sun power my current panels are producing? Can I just use a voltage meter at the end of the grid line?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

 

[FullNuke]

I looked at the EG4 18KPV Route (seems like its the best bang for my buck) and it appears as though I can buy this package below:

EG4 | PowerPro ESS | 14.3 - 28.6kWh Capacity | EG4-18Kpv & EG4-PowerPr

Elevate energy independence with EG4 PowerPro ESS: 14.3 - 28.6kWh capacity. Introducing EG4-18Kpv & EG4-PowerPro WallMount Battery. Experience innovation while anticipating EG4-9540. Optimize energy management today!

solarsovereign.com

Would this do the following to setup the inverter (thought I'd ask you first) before doing my own research which I will.

1. Harness ONLY solar energy to charge the battery EG4 Power Pro
2. Use sun power when available over grid; use grid sometimes when needed if there isn't enough sun power
3. Use the stored energy in the battery at night till it's empty (or safely with 20% left; I heard its important not to drain the batteries completely)
4. Day time comes solar charges battery and at the same time provides power to the main house.
5. Solar before Grid in any option

Thanks again!

 

[DIYrich]

Yes - this is kind of what I was thinking to make this very simple... I do not want buy something that I don't need but what would you recommend as far as 8K, 12K or 15K; I guess we know that number with is connected to my panel at the moment; attached.

The package you found makes install easy.

What do you mean by if you can move "300#"? eg4 powerpro battery is worth considering, especially if you go the eg4 18kpv route.?

The powerpro battery weighs 300 pounds. You will need some way to move/install it. With the battery and inverter being EG4, that means they will work out compatibility issues.

What do you mean by replace your current grid line to the panel? I am assuming this means "get on the roof" (not a problem) and wire all the panels together to one feed line and insert the new single line into the Sol-Ark; and then connect the LifePO4 batteries. (RECOMMENDATION ON THE BATTERIES)?

no. In the BreakerBox picture, following picture: the line that you label "main power coming in" would go to the Grid Input connection of the EG4 18kpv. The Load connection output of the EG4 18kpv would go where the Main Power Coming In line was.

Last question: Do I have to measure what my solar panels produce or can I just simply plug it in to the solark? I guess there is a limit on the inverter of how much power can come in from the solar? I do not want AC Charging for the batteries.

You need to see if the lines ("strings") from the panels are in the voltage and amp range of the PV connections of the EG4 18kPV
The EG4 18kPV can easily handle all the panels you have, as long as they are wired to the correct voltage/amperage limit of the 18kpv.

Last Last Question: How can I find out how much sun power my current panels are producing? Can I just use a voltage meter at the end of the grid line?

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!

You would need Volts and Amps for each of the lines. That will tell you the Wattage they are producing. Wattage over time (the day) is the production (amp hours). Note: Wattage varies over time, so you need to continuously measure wattage.

 

[DIYrich]

I looked at the EG4 18KPV Route (seems like its the best bang for my buck) and it appears as though I can buy this package below:

EG4 | PowerPro ESS | 14.3 - 28.6kWh Capacity | EG4-18Kpv & EG4-PowerPr

Elevate energy independence with EG4 PowerPro ESS: 14.3 - 28.6kWh capacity. Introducing EG4-18Kpv & EG4-PowerPro WallMount Battery. Experience innovation while anticipating EG4-9540. Optimize energy management today!

solarsovereign.com

Would this do the following to setup the inverter (thought I'd ask you first) before doing my own research which I will.

1. Harness ONLY solar energy to charge the battery EG4 Power Pro

Yes. That is an allowable setting.

2. Use sun power when available over grid; use grid sometimes when needed if there isn't enough sun power

Yes. Usually Sun and Battery to supply load before Grid.

3. Use the stored energy in the battery at night till it's empty (or safely with 20% left; I heard its important not to drain the batteries completely)

Ok. With LiFePo4, 10% is safe. Some people go to 0% (under 48v). Why do you want to save the power for night time? Some people want to save 20% (or whatever) incase the grid goes down.

4. Day time comes solar charges battery and at the same time provides power to the main house.

Have to decide if you want #1 (charge battery first) or #4 (self consumption first).

5. Solar before Grid in any option

Standard

Unless you have time of Use (different rates depending upon the time of day):
1) Solar for self consumption
2) Excess Solar for Battery charging
3) Solar + battery to supply load (down to x% for battery).
4) Rest from Grid.

If bad weather is coming (hurricane), you can change settings to charge up battery and hold 100% charge until bad weather passes.

 

[FullNuke]

Wow - thank you so much for your help.

PV Connections: 4 PV inputs.

Question 1: Do I just cut the XT60 connection at the end of the PV wire (I think that is what's in this inverter) going into the EMSUN Inverter? and just use the spliced wiring?
Question 2: This also has the bigger solar connector at the bottom of the Ginlong Inverter; do I cut that and just use the spliced wiring?
Question 3: The video says something about parallel for the first two PV connections and the last 2 are individual under 500 volts PV Input. How do I find out which one I have and which one to use?
Questions 4: Should I just cut 2 X red and white wires that come in from the solar and insert them in the individual connection?

As mentioned I have 20 solar panels on the roof but no idea how the lines comes into the utility room with 2 X Red and White wires for each inverter pictured below.

 

[DIYrich]

Wow - thank you so much for your help.

PV Connections: 4 PV inputs.

Question 1: Do I just cut the XT60 connection at the end of the PV wire (I think that is what's in this inverter) going into the EMSUN Inverter? and just use the spliced wiring?
Question 2: This also has the bigger solar connector at the bottom of the Ginlong Inverter; do I cut that and just use the spliced wiring?
Question 3: The video says something about parallel for the first two PV connections and the last 2 are individual under 500 volts PV Input. How do I find out which one I have and which one to use?
Questions 4: Should I just cut 2 X red and white wires that come in from the solar and insert them in the individual connection?

As mentioned I have 20 solar panels on the roof but no idea how the lines comes into the utility room with 2 X Red and White wires for each inverter pictured below.

No.
Measure the voltage during the day at each of the wire pairs. If all are above 100v and less than 500v, that passes test 1 (within voltage range of 18kpv mppt). If they are all the same voltage, that is great. Note which lines are the same.

Next, you have to know the amps of each line. Not so easily done. Maybe let your electrician friend do it. Do it on a sunny day. Note the amperage.

Here is your problem: you have 4 strings and 3 mppt on the 18kpv. Each mppt has 2 connections. Mppt1 is rated for 25 amps, and each of the other two are rated for 15 amps.

The two lines you want to wire to mppt1 have to be the same voltage, and the combined amps cannot exceed 25 amps. Also, you don't want to combine strings with different shading times.

 

[FullNuke]

Okay sounds good - this makes sense.

I looked at the Signature Solar (where I will be purchasing this bundle) YouTube video of the install it looks like the "strings" are cut at the end and simply inserted bare.

1. Should I cut the end of these strings and get rid of the adapters?
2. To measure the voltage I would have to remove each set of strings from each "old" inverter being red and white (CUT THE ENDS).
3. Test both set of strings RED AND WHITE and see what the voltage is on a Sunny Day (almost every day is sunny).

I might be confused on this but does each string have its own voltage (meaning all four (red and black) have to be tested independently . Sorry I am completely new to solar.

 

[DIYrich]

Okay sounds good - this makes sense.

I looked at the Signature Solar (where I will be purchasing this bundle) YouTube video of the install it looks like the "strings" are cut at the end and simply inserted bare.

1. Should I cut the end of these strings and get rid of the adapters?
2. To measure the voltage I would have to remove each set of strings from each "old" inverter being red and white (CUT THE ENDS).
3. Test both set of strings RED AND WHITE and see what the voltage is on a Sunny Day (almost every day is sunny).

I might be confused on this but does each string have its own voltage (meaning all four (red and black) have to be tested independently . Sorry I am completely new to solar.

I wouldn't cut anything until you are ready to install. You should be able to read the voltage by touching the connection with a probe.

 

[DIYrich]

If you are comfortable going up on the roof, I highly suggest you get the information on the panels.
Model number
Operating voltage
Max amps
Voc (voltage open circuit)

Maybe you can see how they are wired (how many in series).

Make sure they are all the same

 

[FullNuke]

Yes - I will get that information when I am back on the island. I don't mind rewiring it either; I have time there. Just worried that they won't have any of the supplies on the island to be able to wire it with new "strings" if any changes are needed. What is the recommend string to purchase here? Maybe I can ship some just in case?

Also - I am pretty sure that the inverters (at least one Ginlong) would have "generating" when the sun comes up in the morning; the wattage would fluctuate ever second. The Ginlong would display the number in watts...

The other I am not sure because I never messed with that ENSun Inverter. It was placed so high that you can't read the screen; I do have a ladder but never thought of messing with it.

Maybe I can just get these numbers off these screens and let you know when I am back on the island instead of testing them with a wattage / volt meter?