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nicoleresstel

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I got 800 watts eco worthy 12v solar system. Planning to install on the ground since my roof is on the shade and 50ft away from the sunlight.
Have 3000w_6000w inverter, 800w lead acid battery, 8 0 mppt solar charge controller, going to install panels in parallel, have lots of mc4 connectors, battery voltage reader and control, fuse box, 130amp fuse 80a fuse breaker and everything else that's on Will list.
But. Because my panels are not on the roof and to far from my main system I can't figure out the gauge to the wire +/- from the panels to mppt control, does anyone can help me? Thank you.
Ps I hade another account with some answers but is all gone. svetz was helping me before but I lost eve6
 
That's my material and the details for the panels
I got 800 watts eco worthy 12v solar system. Planning to install on the ground since my roof is on the shade and 50ft away from the sunlight.
Have 3000w_6000w inverter, 800w lead acid battery, 8 0 mppt solar charge controller, going to install panels in parallel, have lots of mc4 connectors, battery voltage reader and control, fuse box, 130amp fuse 80a fuse breaker and everything else that's on Will list.
But. Because my panels are not on the roof and to far from my main system I can't figure out the gauge to the wire +/- from the panels to mppt control, does anyone can help me? Thank you.
Ps I hade another account with some answers but is all gone. svetz was helping me before but I lost eve6
In attach is some off the components I have
 

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Thank you. I thought was more simple. Like wire the 8 panels together and run a +/- panel wire to the l80 mppt controller charge, (follow the 800 watts system setup from Will) and add the 8 12v 100ah lead acid batteries to charge controller and will have power
 
80A Solar Charge Controller 12V 24V Auto, Solar Panel Charge Regulator with Load Timer, with LCD Display USB 5V 1500mA and fit for Lead-Acid Batteries

  1. 80A Solar Charge Controller 12V 24V Auto, Solar Panel Charge Regulator with Load Timer, with LCD Display USB 5V 1500mA and fit for Lead-Acid Batteries

  2. Thank you. I thought was more simple. Like wire the 8 panels together and run a +/- panel wire to the l80 mppt controller charge, (follow the 800 watts system setup from Will) and add the 8 12v 100ah lead acid batteries to charge controller and will have power
 
OUCH! Your charge controller isn't an MPPT, it's a PWM. Which I think means the panels will all need to be in parallel.

Quick Facts
  • 8x 100 Watt panels, 18V @ 5.55 amps
  • 80 Amp PWM
  • Question: What gauge wire to run from the panels to the controller (48' span between them)
If you parallel all at the panels you'd have 45 amps at 18V. From www.renogy.com/calculators#tab_solar-cable at 4% loss you'd need a pair of copper wires at AWG 0.

Let's see what other folks think, they may have a solution I'm not seeing.

Here's what I see as options:
  1. Return the PWM and get an MPPT, put the panels in series (1 string with 8 in series would be 8x8+20%=180V@5.5amps, that would be the cheapest wiring
  2. Get a NEMA3r Enclosure (e.g., build a doghouse) for the PWM, batteries, and inverter and store it next to the panels. This would be 120V back to the house over the 50' run and probably your cheapest option.
 
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Personal preference but I get the heebie geebies when DIYers start playing with those sorts of voltages. If something is a bit crook and an arc forms at 180v it's going to be able to sustain itself across quite a good gap and set things on fire.
 
OUCH! Your charge controller isn't an MPPT, it's a PWM. Which I think means the panels will all need to be in parallel.

Quick Facts
  • 8x 100 Watt panels, 18V @ 5.55 amps
  • 80 Amp PWM
  • Question: What gauge wire to run from the panels to the controller (48' span between them)
If you parallel all at the panels you'd have 45 amps at 18V. From www.renogy.com/calculators#tab_solar-cable at 4% loss you'd need a pair of copper wires at AWG 0.



Let's see what other folks think, they may have a solution I'm not seeing.

Here's what I see as options:
  1. Return the PWM and get an MPPT, put the panels in series (1 string with 8 in series would be 8x8+20%=180V@5.5amps, that would be the cheapest wiring
  2. Get a NEMA3r Enclosure (e.g., build a doghouse) for the PWM, batteries, and inverter and store it next to the panels. This would be 120V back to the house over the 50' run and probably your cheapest option.
Thank you. But return time expired on Sept Sept 15th. I will see I can get someone to buy this new system Will is talking about . I'm looking to expand later by February to 2800 watts what si
OUCH! Your charge controller isn't an MPPT, it's a PWM. Which I think means the panels will all need to be in parallel.

Quick Facts
  • 8x 100 Watt panels, 18V @ 5.55 amps
  • 80 Amp PWM
  • Question: What gauge wire to run from the panels to the controller (48' span between them)
If you parallel all at the panels you'd have 45 amps at 18V. From www.renogy.com/calculators#tab_solar-cable at 4% loss you'd need a pair of copper wires at AWG 0.


Let's see what other folks think, they may have a solution I'm not seeing.

Here's what I see as options:
  1. Return the PWM and get an MPPT, put the panels in series (1 string with 8 in series would be 8x8+20%=180V@5.5amps, that would be the cheapest wiring
  2. Get a NEMA3r Enclosure (e.g., build a doghouse) for the PWM, batteries, and inverter and store it next to the panels. This would be 120V back to the house over the 50' run and probably your cheapest option.
My return time is expired. What do you think if I get one off those all in 1 mppt that will is talking about? I'm planning to add 2000 watts more by February what size all in 1 I should get it?
 
Im not a fan of all-in-one systems. All you eggs in one basket kinda thing. Ive had a few devices go south but as i spread the lpad across multiple controllers the loss was minimal until i could get it resolved. But I can also see the advantage in maintaining such a system too.
 
Hey Nicoleresstel!

Think of me more as a theory guy, I just don't have the sort of practical experience to make a specific hardware recommendation. But a lot the members actually have this sort of gear (and situation!) so I'm hoping they'll chime in.

Quick Facts
  • 8x100 Watt panels, 18V @ 5.55 amps
  • 80 Amp PWM
  • 3 kW inverter
  • Adding 2000-2800W in 1Q20
  • 48' from panels to house, don't have wiring yet
  • Question: Should I get an MPPT or all-in-one to handle my future power needs?
All in ones are really nice as they make the setup a snap. But, as @Newenough pointed out; when they die you end up eating the cost of replacing everything. Plus you already have a 3 kW inverter which an all-in-one would include.

Problem
I know you have enough current problems, but you've a future problem too. By now you've probably realized how essential planning is.

When you get your new solar panels, chances are they're going to be different from from your old panels. That could be a problem.
The All-in-Ones or an MPPT with multiple PV inputs is going to want the power from the panels to be balanced; so you won't be able to put 800 watts on one input and 2 kw on the other without taking some big power hits. In fact, there might not be a practical way to balance your existing panels with your future panels at all. In which case you might have to put your old panels and charge controller up on eBay. I believe you can put two MPPTs onto a single battery bank, so conversely you could just set up the system now, and then add new panels with a new MPPT later. Anyone know if you can put an MPPT and PWM onto one battery?

Selling the old system on eBay might not be as bad as it sounds. There is a nice economy to those bigger panels. For example, when I look at altE, 100W panels are $1.49/W whereas the ~300W panels are as low as $0.55/W. So, with those prices 800W of 100W panels is ~$1000, whereas 3000W of ~300W panels is $1650. Sure they weigh a lot more, but it'll be your husband shlucking them around, right? ;)

Options
While you're thinking about how you want to handle that problem, let me give you some $ numbers on other things so you can compare options.

Wire Cost with existing PWM
DogHouse -
Since everything is at the panels, the 48' run is AC wire carrying a max of 25 amps, so 10 AWG copper (~$60+conduit$). There's also the cost for getting a NEMA3R case (or building a small structure that looks like a doghouse) to hold the controller, batteries, and inverter).

Wire Cost with new MPPT
180V@6 Amps
- 1 string of 8 in series: 14 AWG for a 2% loss. That gauge is fairly inexpensive (don't forget you want DC wire, not AC wire).
100V@20 Amps - 2 string of 4 in series: 10 AWG for 2% loss, 12 AWG for 3% loss. Still fairly inexpensive

What I suggest you do now is to take a look at what you think you're going to want for future panels and ask some hard questions like is 3 kW all I've need? Is 120V enough, or should I get an inverter I can run my 240V water pump off? Then work backwards with all you've learned to decide what components you want to keep and what you're going to put up on ebay.
 
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Doing with thevdig house system. How do I carry the power to my house? Can I just get an extension cord from the inverter to the house?
 
Going with the dog house system. How do I carry the power to my house? Can I just get an extension cord from the inverter to the house?
Most people put the wire in conduit and bury it to some depth; otherwise the lawn mower is an expensive accident waiting to happen.
1563556-right-1
 
I think this has been made clear, but your main issue is carrying your DC load from the panels at the distance you need. You should consider either getting the panels closer to the inverter, or getting the inverter closer to the panels. Will and I are both in the process of building solar sheds (shed to house all the batteries and stuff), and there is a section for that on the forum. If you had a small shed at the panels, you can house everything in the shed, and run AC the 50 feet, which is 90% cheaper wire (I made that number up but it's probably close). I am at about 65' with mine, if you include the distance to go underground into the conduit. No problem with romex.
 
Hey Nicoleresstel!

Just finished typing up What wire gauge should I use? Most of that is about DC wiring and won't impact you if you with a dog house (or shed as @Schlagger suggests).

While I was looking at that I ran across something called UF-B which is rated for direct burial (no conduit needed) and 50' of 14 awg is $25 at HomeDepot. You'd want two conductors with a ground.
 
Svetz, is it acceptable to ground the panels and inverter together by virtue of the grounding rod and 2 different clamps?
 
Funny you ask! I had typed some grounding stuff into my original response, then deleted it.

Not an electrician or EE, but here is how I think it works - hopefully someone will correct me if I've got it all wrong.

Every time you drive a grounding rod into the ground, it'll have a voltage difference with another grounding rod. It's just life and why code says all those grounding rods must be tied together. Finally the panels and inverter should be grounded

I think you can treat the doghouse/shed as a subpanel in an outbuilding, that is neutral should not be bonded to ground at the doghouse/shed.

In which case Nicoleresstel would drive a ground rod, bond the panel frames and inverter to it. Now here's the fun part, the UF-B wire has two conductors and a ground, so she's got a hot, neutral, and a ground. So, when she ties the inverter's AC ground of the 50' wire into the ground of the house, she's also connected the two grounding rods as well as grounded her gear.

There's also the concern with someone driving a car over the buried cable causing a rock to nick it causing a ground fault. She's got a really nice Giandel, but no GFCI as far as I know. But if there's any sort of fault seems like the inverter would trip...so I'm thinking it's probably not needed.
 
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Regs vary a lot from country to country for separate earth points. If you want to see just how much effort into determining what you can and can't do in the UK view John Ward's youtube channel. He goes into details of how they have to do multiple ground rise measurements between earth points etc.
 
Funny you ask! I had typed some grounding stuff into my original response, then deleted it.

Not an electrician or EE, but here is how I think it works - hopefully someone will correct me if I've got it all wrong.

Every time you drive a grounding rod into the ground, it'll have a voltage difference with another grounding rod. It's just life and why code says all those grounding rods must be tied together. Finally the panels and inverter should be grounded

I think you can treat the doghouse/shed as a subpanel in an outbuilding, that is neutral should not be bonded to ground at the doghouse/shed.

In which case Nicoleresstel would drive a ground rod, bond the panel frames and inverter to it. Now here's the fun part, the UF-B wire has two conductors and a ground, so she's got a hot, neutral, and a ground. So, when she ties the inverter's AC ground of the 50' wire into the ground of the house, she's also connected the two grounding rods as well as grounded her gear.

There's also the concern with someone driving a car over the buried cable and nicking it causing a ground fault. She's got a really nice Giandel, but no GFCI as far as I know. But if there's any sort of fault seems like the inverter would trip...so I'm thinking it's probably not needed.


You explained that nicely, thanks!
 
Regs vary a lot from country to country for separate earth points. If you want to see just how much effort into determining what you can and can't do in the UK view John Ward's youtube channel. He goes into details of how they have to do multiple ground rise measurements between earth points etc.

I'm in the USA, and I have no inspections, but I want everything to be safe.
 

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