diy solar

diy solar

Orion 12|12 18 wiring question.

Hiker

New Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2021
Messages
39
Location
Bay Saint Louis, MS
On my minivan I have two 100w panels, a Victron 75|15 MPPT controller, charging a 12v 100ah LFP battery. The system has worked great, last year I never needed shore power while running lights, fans, a TV, while charging phones, tablet, a laptop, an Ecoflow Delta Min and ebike batteries through the EF.

I saw the Orion on sale at nearly 1/2 off so I bought it. I'd like a little guidance from the group on how to wire it. I have just under 10' (one way) from starter battery to where I'll place the charger and another 3' to the leisure battery. What's the groups recommended AWG from the starter battery to the charger and from charger to the leisure battery? I'm thinking 8 or 10awg and 10 or 12awg. Will these be sufficient? What size fuses are recommended? Since my solar set up is portable I'll be running the wires from charger to fuse box with Anderson powerpole connectors. The charger will go under the front seat to the left. The charger will feed into the fusebox. (system is modified, replaced cheap fuse box with Blue Seas, battery behind panel)
 

Attachments

  • 20230108_152851.jpg
    20230108_152851.jpg
    333.3 KB · Views: 11
In the instruction manual it gives the recommended wire size and fuse size - my guess is 10awg will be just fine. 30amp fuses are recommended for 10awg wire. Have the fuses close to each of the batteries. (The fuse protects the wire not the equipment).
 
In the instruction manual it gives the recommended wire size and fuse size - my guess is 10awg will be just fine. 30amp fuses are recommended for 10awg wire. Have the fuses close to each of the batteries. (The fuse protects the wire not the equipment).
Thanks.

I haven't received the charger yet and the manual I download is generic for all models including the 30a and 50a models so I wasn't sure. 10awg sounds good as it will save me money on wire and I have crimpers that will handle ferrules, ring terminals and connectors for 10awg.
 
I have another question hopefully it will be seen so I don't have to start another thread.

I'd like to add a lighted switch to the H-L pins but I'm a little confused as to how to do it. I've already added two to my minivan and they work as designed but they also provide power so to speak, on the Orion they just have to make contact. Here's a image of the switch wiring for normal use, but what about to the Orion?
 

Attachments

  • 71mmHQsA-yS._AC_SL1500_ (1).jpg
    71mmHQsA-yS._AC_SL1500_ (1).jpg
    150.6 KB · Views: 10
what about to the Orion
The same as image, pin 1 on the switch to the Orion, to provide the control voltage. I assume you are using the control pin to activate/ deactivate the charger.
 
The same as image, pin 1 on the switch to the Orion, to provide the control voltage. I assume you are using the control pin to activate/ deactivate the charger.
OK, pin 1 to L and pin 3 to H. I saw one post on the Victron forum and he had to switch feeds, so I'll be aware of that. The reason I asked is as far as I'm aware it doesn't need power (just for the light) it's simply an open/closed connection.

I just got the Orion and will be installing in the next day or two. I'm going to add a fan which will come on with the charger or at a certain temp, still waiting on parts.
 
simply an open/closed connection.
If you connect between pins H and L then just use pins 1 and 2 on the switch, the led won't operate. ( 'a' on the attachment
As an alternative connect to the high pin, supplying a high voltage level will enable the unit, ( 'b' on the attachment). In this case the switch pins are,
1 connect to H pin.
2 concert to power.
3 connect to ground.
With this setup, the attractive led will light up.
View attachment 187992
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240110-024452_Drive~2.jpg
    Screenshot_20240110-024452_Drive~2.jpg
    80.5 KB · Views: 1
The same as image, pin 1 on the switch to the Orion, to provide the control voltage. I assume you are using the control pin to activate/ deactivate the charger.

OK, I hooked up the switch as shown. Testing the ends which would go into the L/H pins, the light worked but it showed 12v.

From what I can tell by the Orion diagram a switch would act the same as the bridge that comes installed, no voltage is needed but contact allow the Orion to charge. Without the bridge or open contact/off the charger won't turn on. For the most part I'll probably allow the Orion work as designed but I like the idea of having a switch. I guess I'll just install a simple toggle switch, that doesn't need a power leg to a light.
 
What's the groups recommended AWG from the starter battery to the charger and from charger to the leisure battery?
12 AWG may work, but I would look at the voltage loss at 12 volts for 18 amps.

For a 20' run, I get 12% loss.
For a 5' run, I get 3% loss.

If I read the spec sheet correct, up to 6 AWG can be attached.

I do recommend running the cable distance to see the total loss, and sizing up to 3%. A smaller lower amperage item, I may accept up to 10% loss.
 
12 AWG may work, but I would look at the voltage loss at 12 volts for 18 amps.

For a 20' run, I get 12% loss.
For a 5' run, I get 3% loss.

If I read the spec sheet correct, up to 6 AWG can be attached.

I do recommend running the cable distance to see the total loss, and sizing up to 3%. A smaller lower amperage item, I may accept up to 10% loss.

I believe the Orion manual covers all models including the 30A model which probably calls for 6 AWG. I ended up using 10 AWG which is right on the cusp. Can voltage drop be measured at the battery, then measured again at the far end of the wires? If I need to switch it to 8 AWG I will.
 
OK, I'll try b) (rather than a) from the Orion manual.

I haven't hooked it up to the Orion at this time but I rewired the switch according to b). It lights and expect it to work as an on/off switch.

I placed the Orion on a board to fit under the drivers seat (minivan) and equipped it with a cooling fan and a temperature control module. It took me a bit to figure out how to set thermostat. (88° on/85° off). It also has a high temp alarm which I set for 120°. I like the fact it remembers the settings, so I'm going to wire it from the Orion out terminal. I'm just waiting on a stepdown boost converter so the controller/fan have a steady 12v.
 
I've nearly finished setting up the Orion with a cooling fan, plus fuse, thermostat and 12v regulator. I'm still waiting on a 10 AWG Anderson extension that I'll be cutting in half, with one stripped/ferruled end going into the output of the Orion and the other into the fuse box of the panel with my 12v LFP.. The power to the fan mechanism will come from the output of the Orion so it's only active when the Orion is charging. I really haven't seen any complaints about a "hot" Orion 12|12 18 amp charger, only the 30 amp version but I wanted to be proactive.

While the unit will be upside down when installed, the temp in red is the ambient temp, in blue is when the fan kicks on. I'll also have a switch on the dash to turn the unit off when DC to DC charging isn't needed.

Thanks for all the help
 

Attachments

  • 20240119_124822.jpg
    20240119_124822.jpg
    368.3 KB · Views: 3
  • 20240119_124838.jpg
    20240119_124838.jpg
    299.1 KB · Views: 3
  • 20240119_125426.jpg
    20240119_125426.jpg
    335.4 KB · Views: 4
  • 20240122_104728.jpg
    20240122_104728.jpg
    368.8 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
I just did a little road test and all seems to be working well, charged about 20A on a very cloudy day (so most all from the Orion). The fan kicked on briefly and the Orion was just slightly warm to the touch. I may up the thermostat a couple degrees.
 
Back
Top