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Possible Voltage Spikes from Victron Orion DC-DC Frying My Truck Electronics?

What were the codes?
Four different shops read the codes, two of which were full service Chevy Dealers, The codes said both the the shutter control and throttle body motors were bad. The Chevy Dealer mechanic i chose to work on the truck told me that he physically inspected the old throttle body motor with his tester after he removed it and confirmed the motor was not responsive. The shutter control motor also would not respond to his inputs but he was not able to remove the shutter because they had to order one.

I wanted to watch him test the throttle motor after he removed it but was not allowed back in the work area. The throttle body has already been replaced. The shutter control will be replaced next week when the part comes in.

After the mechanic installed the new throttle body, I cross examined him the best I could and feel reasonably satisfied that he is experienced, skilled and honest.

I would have replaced the throttle body myself but I do not have the equipment necessary to reset the ECM.
 
Four different shops read the codes, two of which were full service Chevy Dealers, The codes said both the the shutter control and throttle body motors were bad. The Chevy Dealer mechanic i chose to work on the truck told me that he physically inspected the old throttle body motor with his tester after he removed it and confirmed the motor was not responsive. The shutter control motor also would not respond to his inputs but he was not able to remove the shutter because they had to order one.

I wanted to watch him test the throttle motor after he removed it but was not allowed back in the work area. The throttle body has already been replaced. The shutter control will be replaced next week when the part comes in.

After the mechanic installed the new throttle body, I cross examined him the best I could and feel reasonably satisfied that he is experienced, skilled and honest.

I would have replaced the throttle body myself but I do not have the equipment necessary to reset the ECM.

Right.

There are several different codes each component can set on their various circuits, that's why I asked for the specific code.

For instant "actuator motor power short to ground" "actuator ground short to power" "actuator position sensor high short/open".

In other words the shutter probably has a motor portion and a sensor to tell the computer the position of the shutter etc.

The sensing circuit would be most susceptible to damage from voltage spikes or whatever and not the servo itself, if that makes sense.

Also, as a complete aside, check for signs of rodent chewing.
 
Also OP, a quick cursory check of my online resource (subscription service for information for technicians) shows throttle body and shutter motor failures are extremely common on that truck so I probably wouldn't be worried your Victron is the issue.

The work they will do will be under warranty so I wouldn't worry about it unless you get a repeat failure of the same components during the upcoming camping season.
 
a quick cursory check of my online resource (subscription service for information for technicians) shows throttle body and shutter motor failures are extremely common on that truck so I probably wouldn't be worried your Victron is the issue.
That makes me feel much better!
Thank you! (y)
 
I yhink it is stupid to have these darn shutter grilles and even dumber they cost so much.

Helps with fuel economy which saves you money but the cost to replace this crap at the 100k mark when it breaks completely nullifies and probably exceeds any $$$ it saved a guy on fuel.
 
Helps with fuel economy which saves you money but the cost to replace this crap at the 100k mark when it breaks completely nullifies and probably exceeds any $$$ it saved a guy on fuel.
But how much mpg does it really save? 0.1?
 
The work they will do will be under warranty
Thanks for the warranty reminder!

My truck is a 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500, with 78k miles.

My understanding is that the Active Grille Shutter (also known as Radiator Shutter Assembly) regulates frontal airflow in the vehicle to reduce aerodynamic drag. The shutter also offers improved fuel mileage to help address rising fuel economy standards and the need to reduce vehicle emissions.

My truck has three warranties, as far as I can tell. The first two have definitely expired.
I am not sure if the third warranty applies.

1. Bumper-to-Bumper (Includes Tires). Coverage is for the first 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.
2. Powertrain Coverage is provided for 5 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first.
3. Federal Emission Control (System Warranty Federal Warranty Coverage) ‐ 2 years or 24,000 miles and 8 years or 80,000 miles for the catalytic converter, vehicle/ powertrain control module, transmission control module or other onboard emissions.

I presume the throttle body is not covered by the third warranty, but I will ask the dealer.
As for the shutters, I will find out if they are covered under the third warranty because they help reduce emissions.
 
But how much mpg does it really save? 0.1?

Not enough to offset its initial or replacement cost.

Honda is the same way. They have these fancy electromagnetic motor mounts to cancel out the vibration produced when it switches from running on 6 to 3 cylinders.

Those mounts are toast at 100k to the tune of $1500.00 all to support a system that nets maybe an extra gallon of highway fuel economy.
 
Thanks for the warranty reminder!

My truck is a 2018 Chevy Silverado 1500, with 78k miles.

My understanding is that the Active Grille Shutter (also known as Radiator Shutter Assembly) regulates frontal airflow in the vehicle to reduce aerodynamic drag. The shutter also offers improved fuel mileage to help address rising fuel economy standards and the need to reduce vehicle emissions.

My truck has three warranties, as far as I can tell. The first two have definitely expired.
I am not sure if the third warranty applies.

1. Bumper-to-Bumper (Includes Tires). Coverage is for the first 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first.
2. Powertrain Coverage is provided for 5 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first.
3. Federal Emission Control (System Warranty Federal Warranty Coverage) ‐ 2 years or 24,000 miles and 8 years or 80,000 miles for the catalytic converter, vehicle/ powertrain control module, transmission control module or other onboard emissions.

I presume the throttle body is not covered by the third warranty, but I will ask the dealer.
As for the shutters, I will find out if they are covered under the third warranty because they help reduce emissions.

I mean the replacement parts will have a warranty.

I did not mean that the initial new vehicle warranty might cover their replacement now.
 
Not enough to offset its initial or replacement cost.

Honda is the same way. They have these fancy electromagnetic motor mounts to cancel out the vibration produced when it switches from running on 6 to 3 cylinders.

Those mounts are toast at 100k to the tune of $1500.00 all to support a system that nets maybe an extra gallon of highway fuel economy.
Oh I know. I disabled that stupid VCM so hopefully my mounts don't break.
 
If the system voltage has been high that should show up in the diagnostic trouble codes of the body module as a history code. That will be separate to the failed component codes.
 
You do have a smart alternator controlled by the ECU. Many of the Silverados do have voltage sensing on the negative ground battery cable. It is a red plastic box around the cable.

Not looking to have such problems I am installing a second alternator on my Silverado to keep all the house charging on its own.
 
You do have a smart alternator controlled by the ECU. Many of the Silverados do have voltage sensing on the negative ground battery cable. It is a red plastic box around the cable.

Not looking to have such problems I am installing a second alternator on my Silverado to keep all the house charging on its own.
On the diesels it is easy to just tie in at the aux battery, the sensor is on the main battery. I charge at 50 amps with no issues and am stacking units to add 50amps more.
 
So I think I understand what you did, you modified some of the stock wiring in the 7-blade plug from the truck to add your dc-dc charger.
My thoughts on this situation, I would put that back to stock, and possibly add a shut-off for the "AUX 12V+" if it was even hooked up.
Run a hot and negative from the truck battery to the orion, from the orion to an anderson connector or something, then hot and negative to the camper battery.

Every time I've seen someone try to use the charging through a 7-blade, it eventually ended badly.
 
I just ordered an Orion XS. Gonna hook replace my Victron 12/12 18A that is installed in the trailer and connected to the 7 pin factory line from the truck. That line is 10ga with a 30A fuse.

I'm gonna set the input current on the Orion XS to 30A and see what happens. The 12/12 18A draws 22A from the truck to make 14.2V @ 18A on the output. I'm guessing the best I will see from the Orion XS is 14.2V @ 22-24A. Then I will do what you recommend and see if I can actually get 50A from the Orion XS. My alternator is only 160A and it's dumb. That should be enough to handle the Orion XS with proper wiring.

Geesh, just ran the voltage drop calculator and it recommends 2 ga wire for the 20 ft run.
 
just ran the voltage drop calculator and it recommends 2 ga wire for the 20 ft run.
I just watched a very good youtube with a detailed comparison of the old Orion vs the new Orion XS. One of the key takeaways for me was that when smaller wire is used, the voltage drop in the wire causes both Orions to draw more current from the alternator so that the Orion can step up the voltage to charge the battery at the specified settings. The additional load put on the alternator can be quite significant.
 
I just watched a very good youtube with a detailed comparison of the old Orion vs the new Orion XS. One of the key takeaways for me was that when smaller wire is used, the voltage drop in the wire causes both Orions to draw more current from the alternator so that the Orion can step up the voltage to charge the battery at the specified settings. The additional load put on the alternator can be quite significant.
In my case with the factory 30A fuse on the 10ga wire, the Orion XS cannot put more than a 30A load on the alternator.
 
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