Victron Orion XS DC-DC chargers are shipping - Just got mine!

[Mercruiser]

I just received my Victron Orion XS 12-12V 50A charger. I am building an EVE LF304 4S 12V battery and want to charge it from my truck alternator while driving. I already have a Victron Orion-Tr Smart 30A charger on another vehicle and am wanting the higher charging current, the higher efficiency (98.5% vs 87%), and the lower heat output.


The increase in efficiency is significant. The lower heat generation allows them to put this in a smaller package. Less surface area is needed to dissipate the heat. They have also omitted the cooling fins present on the TR-Smart 30A model.

How did they increase the efficiency? They don't say (that I can find). So I'll speculate, based on what's happening with other power supplies. The picture shows the box that a Tr-Smart 30A uses, for size comparison. In front of the Victrons, I placed two 65 watt USB 3 chargers, that I use to charge the batteries on my Thinkpad Carbon X1. The one on the left is the Thinkpad OEM charger that came with the computer. The one on the right is an Anker Nano II that uses gallium nitride (GaN) semiconductor technology (instead of silicon-based power MOSFETs) to increase the efficiency, lower the heat output, and reduce the size. I'll speculate that Victron is using GaN semiconductors in the Orion XS.

 

[S Davis]

Where did you purchase it?

 

[AntronX]

No point in using GaN at 12V. They probably used better newer MOSFETs in bidirectional buck-boost topology.

 

[Mercruiser]

Where did you purchase it?

Bend Battery (Bend Oregon).

I also got an email from PKYS saying they received their 1st shipment of 70 units.

 

[SoggyShoes]

Well, it looks like something else to add to the list!

 

[Dooug]

Waiting for a 12/24 volt version to become available. Looks great! The adjustable output is really handy.

 

[featherlite]

to charge it from my truck alternator

What make and model is your truck?

 

[Mercruiser]

What make and model is your truck?

Ford F-350 with 240A alternator. I'll control the charger with an upfitter switch in the cab. If I'm headed someplace with shore power (home or campground with hookups) I'll leave the XS off. Otherwise, I'll turn it on once on the highway to avoid charging at idle.

 

[S Davis]

Bend Battery (Bend Oregon).

I also got an email from PKYS saying they received their 1st shipment of 70 units.

I am planning on getting one, I am using a 50amp Redarc now for two 280ah batteries and I need more charging.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

I thought of getting two to replace my older 50A Victron Buck Boost’s just for the sake of being able to monitor them more easily through VRM on my Cerbo GX in my Sprinter van but decided it wasn’t worth it. Although it is a PITA to make any adjustments via only a PC but they are rock solid. I already have the two older ones in parallel for a combined 100 amps but only really get about 80’ish to 90’ish A’s of charging when on the road from my 220A Smart Sprinter alternator as I can monitor it on my cell phone while driving. I added a second Victron battery shunt as an energy meter to them in order to get the info on my Cerbo GX screen and have GuidMods running in order to get the alternator info on my GX monitor. It works and I’m able to get the info that I need so I’ll pass for now but do like their smaller footprint and that they run cooler. I had to add fans to our buck boosts as they do run somewhat hot but not as hot as the Orion DC to DC chargers.

 

[featherlite]

I thought of getting two to replace my older 50A Victron Buck Boost’s just for the sake of being able to monitor them more easily through VRM on my Cerbo GX in my Sprinter van but decided it wasn’t worth it. Although it is a PITA to make any adjustments via only a PC but they are rock solid. I already have the two older ones in parallel for a combined 100 amps but only really get about 80’ish to 90’ish A’s of charging when on the road from my 220A Smart Sprinter alternator as I can monitor it on my cell phone while driving. I added a second Victron battery shunt as an energy meter to them in order to get the info on my Cerbo GX screen and have GuidMods running in order to get the alternator info on my GX monitor. It works and I’m able to get the info that I need so I’ll pass for now but do like their smaller footprint and that they run cooler. I had to add fans to our buck boosts as they do run somewhat hot but not as hot as the Orion DC to DC chargers.




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Wow! you really got that Cerbo GX working for you!

 

[Dooug]

Ford F-350 with 240A alternator. I'll control the charger with an upfitter switch in the cab. If I'm headed someplace with shore power (home or campground with hookups) I'll leave the XS off. Otherwise, I'll turn it on once on the highway to avoid charging at idle.

Are you going to run a heavy relay/solenoid to control the power to the the Orion or run an upfitter switch wired directly to the the Orion on off port?

 

[Mercruiser]

Are you going to run a heavy relay/solenoid to control the power to the the Orion or run an upfitter switch wired directly to the the Orion on off port?

I haven't decided yet. Either one would work for me.

I have several Tyco Electronics EV200 relays (PN EV200AAANA) that I bought used for $15 from Battery Hookup. They cost $180+ new from Mouser, Digikey, etc. These EV200 switches are really, really good. They are made for high voltage EV applications: 500A at 900 VDC. I am using one of these for my main battery disconnect on my LF304 battery. I think they can handle the Orion XS fine.

It would be easy to operate the EV200 directly from an upfitter switch. I don't even need to add a flyback diode, because this is built-in to the EV200.

I like having a physical disconnect on supply circuits. But honestly, the remote on/off input of the Orion XS would work perfectly fine for my application.

In case you are interested, I am using a Bussmann CB285-80 Surface-Mount Circuit Breaker for overcurrent protection on the cable from the F-350 to the Orion XS. The CB385 are marine rated (safe to put in engine compartment) and are only $40. I much prefer these over fuses.

I'm a recently retired electrical protection engineer. So I only like to buy electrical protection products from major manufacturers like Eaton (Cooper Bussman), Littlefuse, Tyco Electronics, Schneider, etc. I don't buy the knockoffs from Amazon Marketplace sellers. Anyone can copy an Eaton circuit breaker. But there is actually a lot of components in a breaker that require very good manufacturing quality controls. I don't think the knockoff companies can do this.

And speaking of knockoffs, I much rather have a used EV200 relay than a new Amazon Marketplace battery solenoid.

 

[Dooug]

Ive got a bussman 60 amp breaker((oversized breaker for engine temps) under the hood for my 12/24/15 and 6 gauge wire (ancor marine). I will add a continuous duty solenoid that is controlled by the upfitter. This way it shuts down when the truck shuts down (i didnt get the smart version orion...doh). I did run the on/off wires from the orion right to my cerbo relay and can control it with that remotely or program it to shut down at 95% SOC so it does not push the balancing on my cheap batteries out to lunch.

Didn't want to wire upfitter all the way to orion as it is a lot of wire and yet another connection to deal with when removing the camper.

That Tyco sounds like a nice set up, ill keep an eye out for a deal on one. No amazon marketplace stuff for me...mostly blue seas which i can find at a local dealer for sometimes cheaper than amazon!

 

[chicagoandy]

I believe they've also dramatically cut the costs? I recall the pre-orders were $800ish? Now I see then for $328, a far more reasonable price.

Hoping they make a 24v soon.

 

[Mercruiser]

That Tyco sounds like a nice set up, ill keep an eye out for a deal on one. No amazon marketplace stuff for me...mostly blue seas which i can find at a local dealer for sometimes cheaper than amazoni

That Tyco sounds like a nice set up, ill keep an eye out for a deal on one. No amazon marketplace stuff for me...mostly blue seas which i can find at a local dealer for sometimes cheaper than amazon!

Here is where I got them. I'd suggest getting an extra as a spare.

TE Connectivity EV200AAANA 500a 0-900vdc Tyco 12/24v

These were recovered from EV battery modules. These are VERY EXPENSIVE online. If you have any project that needs a high current relay this is your chance to save some money. Make a cheap 30a BMS into a 500a BMS. This will work for batteries in the 9-36v range so perfect for Lifepo4 and Lithium...

batteryhookup.com

 

[Mercruiser]

Didn't want to wire upfitter all the way to orion as it is a lot of wire and yet another connection

Same here. It just seems simpler to put the EV200 in series with the breaker

 

[Mercruiser]

I been bench testing the Orion XS for the last couple of weeks. So far, so good. But I only have a 10A supply on my bench, so I haven't tested it at full load. I did briefly run it off an old ATX computer power supply at 30A. It was brief because the ATX fan didn't come on and it was getting hot, so I didn't feel comfortable leaving it unattended. At 30A, the Orion XS aluminum backplate feels barely warm. This charger is very efficient.

I really like being able to control and see the currents, both input and output. This is a nice improvement over the Orion TR series.

One pleasant surprise from the bench testing is that the microcontroller and bluetooth are powered by both the IN and the OUT lines. This means you don't lose the History and Trends data if you shut off the charger with a EV200 (or other relay) on the supply (IN) side. And you can communicate with the XS over bluetooth, even when the IN power is off. (Maybe this feature is also present in the TR series. I have one, but never noticed this.)

 

[SoggyShoes]

I wish they had more options like 12V to 24V.

 

[corn18]

I thought of getting two to replace my older 50A Victron Buck Boost’s just for the sake of being able to monitor them more easily through VRM on my Cerbo GX in my Sprinter van but decided it wasn’t worth it. Although it is a PITA to make any adjustments via only a PC but they are rock solid. I already have the two older ones in parallel for a combined 100 amps but only really get about 80’ish to 90’ish A’s of charging when on the road from my 220A Smart Sprinter alternator as I can monitor it on my cell phone while driving. I added a second Victron battery shunt as an energy meter to them in order to get the info on my Cerbo GX screen and have GuidMods running in order to get the alternator info on my GX monitor. It works and I’m able to get the info that I need so I’ll pass for now but do like their smaller footprint and that they run cooler. I had to add fans to our buck boosts as they do run somewhat hot but not as hot as the Orion DC to DC chargers.




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What are you using for tank sensing that works with the Cerbo? I have a Cerbo Tank and bought some ultrasonic sensors that are supposed to be compatible with the Tank but they didn't work.

 

[Buzz Lighting]

What are you using for tank sensing that works with the Cerbo? I have a Cerbo Tank and bought some ultrasonic sensors that are supposed to be compatible with the Tank but they didn't work.

I’m using a second SeeLevel II monitor that is tied to the Cerob GX via a RV-C to VE Can adapter cable. The SeeLevel II monitor needs to be the 709-N2KNLP (NMEA200) version for it to work with the Cerbo. For the LPG tank reading, I’m using a Mopeka LPG Tank sensor via bluetooth to the Cerbo. Temp monitors are also via bluetooth and I’m using the Ruuvi Tags for that. Initially a headache to setup as I’m using two SeeLevel II monitors. The main one is bluetooth enabled with an app which helps out to have when dumping the tanks so I did not want to get rid of it and they don’t make one with both bluetooth and RV-C. I had to contact Garnett the manufacturer which they were quite helpful and showed me how to set up the RV-C one as the primary and the bluetooth one as the secondary. If you’re only installing one then you’re good. One thing too note is that when running the grounds and sender wires, try to avoid running them along or attach them any 120 AC wires as they will interfere and throw off the values on the tank readings.

Below is a great write up on how to do it. You can buy the kit from them if you want but I didn’t. I bought my SeeLevel II from an RV supply house and made my own cable which is a PITA to do so I would just buy one made.
https://www.vanlifeoutfitters.com/using-seelevel-tank-monitoring-with-a-victron-energy-cerbo-gx/

Now, I’m still undecided if I leave my GuiMods with all the available info on the screen that I’ve become accustomed to or Victron’s streamlined new firmware look as I’m really liking it too.

 

[corn18]

I have the Mopeka bluetooth sensors on my propane tanks so I will get them integrated on the Cerbo. It looks like Mopeka sells wireless tank sensors that work with the Cerbo as well. Going to order one and see how it works.

 

[chicagoandy]

What are you using for tank sensing that works with the Cerbo? I have a Cerbo Tank and bought some ultrasonic sensors that are supposed to be compatible with the Tank but they didn't work.

Here's a good thread on tank sensors for Cerbo GX: https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/54949/cerbo-gx-sensor-recommendations.html

They mention many different ones that work, but they all appear to use float-sensors rather than ultrasonic.

 

[Mercruiser]

I installed the Orion XS in my truck's LiFePO4 battery system. Here is the Victron Connect Status Display. The Orion XS is powered by an F-350 240A alternator at idle. The efficiency of the XS is 98% at 50A. This compares to the Victron specification of 98.5% Maximum Efficiency (probably at a lower current). I really like seeing the efficiency at full load to be that close to the specification. This is one of the reasons I like Victron - they have published specifications and they meet them.

The thermal camera image is kind of interesting. This is the back back side of the XS showing the aluminum plate with the product label sticker in the middle (shows yellow in the IR photo). Below the sticker, there is reflection of my smart phone and knuckles. Notice that the sticker temperature is 44C, but the aluminum plate is showing dark purple, meaning it is registering much cooler. Intuitively, we know the sticker and the aluminum are the same temperature because the sticker is glued right onto the aluminum plate. The reason for this discrepancy is that aluminum has a much lower emissivity than paper, meaning that it emits a lot less infrared light than does paper at the same temperature. The other problem with measuring metallic objects is they reflect IR, like from my hands. You can easily get a false temperature reading from your own reflection or even a ceiling light. A good solution is to put masking tape (or a sticker) on the metal object. Masking tape has high emissivity (0.92+) and eliminates the reflection.

Summary: So far I'm very pleased with the features and performance of the Orion XS.
(Also, the 240A alternator has no problem with this load at idle. But that's another topic.)

 

[featherlite]

The thermal camera image is kind of interesting.

I find it VERY interesting.

the 240A alternator has no problem with this load at idle. But that's another topic

Perhaps, in due course, you could share your thoughts on that topic.

Thanks for posting all of this valuable data!