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Victron Orion XS DC-DC chargers are shipping - Just got mine!

I sure wish they had an isolated version but otherwise looks good. I like the IP65 rating as I'd love to mount this on the underside of my camper as I have very limited space available inside.
 
I changed my mind, bit the bullet and bought these just to have some integration with the rest of my Victron equipment in our Sprinter van. I replaced the older two Victron 50A Buck Boosts with two new 50A Orions XS’s. My pocket still hurts but don’t regret it as the integration and “ACCURATE”information is exactly what I wanted. I love that I can shut them off via the VRM app when the sun is out and plentiful enough for a good charge or to keep the batteries topped off as to not tax the alternator unnecessarily when driving. I also will turn one off when the batteries are around 70-80% charged on longer trips. These kick butt and they actually work together when charging and I’ve noticed that they take turns with charging duties as they will each charge for a certain amount of time and then turn it over to the other when the batteries are getting close to getting fully charged. I’ve only noticed this because I have the Victron VRM app running in the background while I’m driving on our long trips. We have 600Ah’s of lithium onboard.
 

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Curious how the Orion XS worked out for you...
I will report that it works great.

A couple of things on my system. 22, RV.
Previously had a n Orion 12/12/30
800 w solar
600 ah lfp
12 v air con.
xs50 set to 35 amps (120A alternator at the moment155A on the way)

Usage
A lot of eastern Sierra, Central Nevada, Southern California deserts in the “shoulder” seasons
On drive days, crank the AC down to 68* and run the dash air. Arrived at camp with 100% charge.
Three days boondocked with 95* afternoons in full sun. AC bumped to 78*.Cools off in the evening so open up and turn on fans

Three days boon dock and finishing each day about 10% additional down, the next day had us back to 100% in a four hour drive. This is switching the XS off going up hill and on going down or on the flats
Bottom line, it’s working for me and I hope to get even better results when I get the new alt installed
 
Ford F-350 with 240A alternator. I'll control the charger with an upfitter switch in the cab. If I'm headed someplace with shore power (home or campground with hookups) I'll leave the XS off. Otherwise, I'll turn it on once on the highway to avoid charging at idle.
Came across this while researching the XS

I want to use it mainly on idle to charge my batteries in the cloudy winter days
So wanted to ask, why did you want to avoid charging on idle? is it bad in someway?
 
Came across this while researching the XS

I want to use it mainly on idle to charge my batteries in the cloudy winter days
So wanted to ask, why did you want to avoid charging on idle? is it bad in someway?

Heat - Alternators need to be kept cool

It depends upon the loads, alternator size, engine speed, weather, & how your system is designed.

Then, you have to consider how long an idle & if that is ok for your vehicle if (long term).

_______


On another note, I have a Kisae 1250 in my Travel Van & really like it as it is very user programable.

Recently I contacted Kisae about their 12100 which is user configurable from 10amps to 100amps in “10 amp increments”. It is also a dual charger “Alternator & Solar MPPT”.

Earlier this week I emailed Kisae to get the info & user manual on the 12100 (their website is a little screwed up). Here is the info I received;

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In my Van, I use the 50 amps max - However in Electrical Design, I prefer to buy equipment larger than needed and then run "The Stuff" at around about 50% ,,, heat / fans / efficiency / etc. The 12100 was not available at the time I purchased my 1250, but today I think I would buy the 12100 and dial it back to 60 amps out of a possible 100amps thus about 60% the max power.



User Manual Attached in PFF below;
 

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Heat - Alternators need to be kept cool

It depends upon the loads, alternator size, engine speed, weather, & how your system is designed.

Then, you have to consider how long an idle & if that is ok for your vehicle if (long term).

_______


On another note, I have a Kisae 1250 in my Travel Van & really like it as it is very user programable.

Recently I contacted Kisae about their 12100 which is user configurable from 10amps to 100amps in “10 amp increments”. It is also a dual charger “Alternator & Solar MPPT”.

Earlier this week I emailed Kisae to get the info & user manual on the 12100 (their website is a little screwed up). Here is the info I received;

View attachment 259205

View attachment 259208

View attachment 259207


In my Van, I use the 50 amps max - However in Electrical Design, I prefer to buy equipment larger than needed and then run "The Stuff" at around about 50% ,,, heat / fans / efficiency / etc. The 12100 was not available at the time I purchased my 1250, but today I think I would buy the 12100 and dial it back to 60 amps out of a possible 100amps thus about 60% the max power.



User Manual Attached in PFF below;


55 VDC for mppt is pretty useless with today's solar panels which are 49V open circuit at 25C


Regarding alternator - so starting my truck for 3 hours to charge the batteries is not a viable option in your opinion? (It's an old girl, c3500hd chevy 02')
 
55 VDC for mppt is pretty useless with today's solar panels which are 49V open circuit at 25C


Regarding alternator - so starting my truck for 3 hours to charge the batteries is not a viable option in your opinion? (It's an old girl, c3500hd chevy 02')
To get started, Google the specs on your alternator to see how many amps the alternator is rated at.
 
55 VDC for mppt is pretty useless with today's solar panels which are 49V open circuit at 25C


Regarding alternator - so starting my truck for 3 hours to charge the batteries is not a viable option in your opinion? (It's an old girl, c3500hd chevy 02')

I don’t use my Kisae for solar, but the spec is what it is ,,, As you suggested panels will need to be matched to the charger. “Useless” is “Subjective” not Objective, but I believe an array could be configured to give a decent amount of energy. 35vdc @ 80a is 2800w. If you think 2800w is useless so be it ,,, I run a 300sf Cabin off a 600w array;

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As per you running the “Old Girl” @ idle for 3 hours 🤔 ,,, I do not have your vehicle specs nor do I understand your situation, but a Honda 2200 Generator ( ultra quiet ), can provide about 1800W continuously.


So what I believe is useless is a Solar Array without the Sun. @BartonB msybe you can expand on why you think this 55vdc max Solar MPPT is useless to you ??
 
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I don’t use my Kisae for solar, but the spec is what it is ,,, As you suggested panels will need to be matched to the charger. “Useless” is “Subjective” not Objective, but I believe an array could be configured to give a decent amount of energy. 35vdc @ 80a is 2800w. If you think 2800w is useless so be it ,,, I run a 300sf Cabin off a 600w array;

View attachment 259446


View attachment 259442


As per you running the “Old Girl” @ idle for 3 hours 🤔 ,,, I do not have your vehicle specs nor do I understand your situation, but a Honda 2200 Generator ( ultra quiet ), can provide about 1800W continuously.


So what I believe is useless is a Solar Array without the Sun. @BartonB msybe you can expand on why you think this 55vdc max Solar MPPT is useless to you ??
as I said - Because most solar panels manufactured today require a higher mppt voltage to work....you'll than need to search for older / second hand solar panels to create your array, that's all, definitely objective
 
as I said - Because most solar panels manufactured today require a higher mppt voltage to work....you'll than need to search for older / second hand solar panels to create your array, that's all, definitely objective

It is pretty common to put 150 - 250 watt ish size panels on vans.

They are available in nominal 18 and 36 volt Vmp.

My son and I have put panels on various vehicles and that size range is really convenient for lifting and mounting panels on a vehicle.

I am not endorsing the products, just pointing out that for instance on a Transit, panels that are 59 - 62 inches long x ~ 25 inches wide, mounted cross wise are pretty convenient.

Less obvious is that the optimal setup for a dry sunny area is not always ideal for places with overcast winters.
 
It is pretty common to put 150 - 250 watt ish size panels on vans.

They are available in nominal 18 and 36 volt Vmp.

My son and I have put panels on various vehicles and that size range is really convenient for lifting and mounting panels on a vehicle.

I am not endorsing the products, just pointing out that for instance on a Transit, panels that are 59 - 62 inches long x ~ 25 inches wide, mounted cross wise are pretty convenient.
Cool that's a good use case
 
I installed one of these about 2 months ago. Work truck application that gets driven almost daily and used for work several times a week. Idles for hours with the XS on (the whole point of this system) while running drills etc off the inverter system. No issues. Auto start detection is all that’s used.
 
What's next?
If you do not already own one, get a DC clamp style, hand held amp meter. Harbor Freight has them. Start your vehicle with no headlights on, no radio, no heater fan, no wipers or any other load devices that will draw current. Put the clamp meter around the cable that runs to your alternator. Record the amp draw. Then, turn on the headlights, record the cumulative amp draw. Do this for each of your loads, each time recording the cumulative amp draw.

Then, calculate the number of spare amps available form you alternator (= alternator rated amps minus cumulative recorded amps).

IMHO, I would not continuously draw more than 60% of the alternator's rated amps to prevent overheating the alternator.

So, the spare amps would be calculated assuming that the alternator is derated by 60%. Now you know how many spare amps you can allocate to a DC DC charger without over working the alternator.

NB: The alternator's amp capacity is much less at idle compared to higher RPM's.

Consequently, I do not run my DC DC charger when driving in town at low idle.

I am conservative and do not want to risk burning out my alternator. As a matter of fact, I carry a spare alternator in case of an emergency.




.
 
If you do not already own one, get a DC clamp style, hand held amp meter. Harbor Freight has them. Start your vehicle with no headlights on, no radio, no heater fan, no wipers or any other load devices that will draw current. Put the clamp meter around the cable that runs to your alternator. Record the amp draw. Then, turn on the headlights, record the cumulative amp draw. Do this for each of your loads, each time recording the cumulative amp draw.

Then, calculate the number of spare amps available form you alternator (= alternator rated amps minus cumulative recorded amps).

IMHO, I would not continuously draw more than 60% of the alternator's rated amps to prevent overheating the alternator.

So, the spare amps would be calculated assuming that the alternator is derated by 60%. Now you know how many spare amps you can allocate to a DC DC charger without over working the alternator.

NB: The alternator's amp capacity is much less at idle compared to higher RPM's.

Consequently, I do not run my DC DC charger when driving in town at low idle.

I am conservative and do not want to risk burning out my alternator. As a matter of fact, I carry a spare alternator in case of an emergency.




.
Thanks!

Might be easier to just get a generator...
I don't drive much, driving to a place and stay for a few weeks

What is the efficiency of an alternator vs generator in fuel consumption? Is it substantial?
 
Thanks!

Might be easier to just get a generator...
I don't drive much, driving to a place and stay for a few weeks

What is the efficiency of an alternator vs generator in fuel consumption? Is it substantial?

Each approach has advantages and limitations.

A generator ( 120 vac version ) still needs a battery charger to work.

There are some DC generators on the market as well, so those, at least in theory, do not need the battery charger.

If you are driving, then pulling some power off of the alternator when the engine is already running doesn't have much impact on fuel efficiency or engine wear.

If you are going to be more or less just hanging out and not driving much, then idling a lot adds engine run hours, and some vehicle engines are just not designed for this type of regular idle use.

It used to not really matter that much, but drive train repairs and maintenance is a lot more expensive than it used to be. Also parts have gotten harder to source, so there can be some inconvenience.

If a generator wears out, then replacing it is usually under $4 K.

You can put some solar panels ground mount - 600 watts is usually plenty to keep the refrigerator and fuel powered heat going.
 

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