richard cabesa
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2021
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- 185
Installed my Orion XS today. Will report back shortly . Leaving on a three week trip on Monday
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Me too, except that here in Indiana, in the winter time, the highway department sprays some wickedly corrosive stuff to melt ice that would likely destroy all the terminals in no time. I learned my lesson when I installed batteries under my truck.I'd love to mount this on the underside of my camper
Curious how the Orion XS worked out for you...Installed my Orion XS today. Will report back shortly . Leaving on a three week trip on Monday
I will report that it works great.Curious how the Orion XS worked out for you...
Came across this while researching the XSFord F-350 with 240A alternator. I'll control the charger with an upfitter switch in the cab. If I'm headed someplace with shore power (home or campground with hookups) I'll leave the XS off. Otherwise, I'll turn it on once on the highway to avoid charging at idle.
Came across this while researching the XS
I want to use it mainly on idle to charge my batteries in the cloudy winter days
So wanted to ask, why did you want to avoid charging on idle? is it bad in someway?
Heat - Alternators need to be kept cool
It depends upon the loads, alternator size, engine speed, weather, & how your system is designed.
Then, you have to consider how long an idle & if that is ok for your vehicle if (long term).
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On another note, I have a Kisae 1250 in my Travel Van & really like it as it is very user programable.
Recently I contacted Kisae about their 12100 which is user configurable from 10amps to 100amps in “10 amp increments”. It is also a dual charger “Alternator & Solar MPPT”.
Earlier this week I emailed Kisae to get the info & user manual on the 12100 (their website is a little screwed up). Here is the info I received;
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In my Van, I use the 50 amps max - However in Electrical Design, I prefer to buy equipment larger than needed and then run "The Stuff" at around about 50% ,,, heat / fans / efficiency / etc. The 12100 was not available at the time I purchased my 1250, but today I think I would buy the 12100 and dial it back to 60 amps out of a possible 100amps thus about 60% the max power.
User Manual Attached in PFF below;
To get started, Google the specs on your alternator to see how many amps the alternator is rated at.55 VDC for mppt is pretty useless with today's solar panels which are 49V open circuit at 25C
Regarding alternator - so starting my truck for 3 hours to charge the batteries is not a viable option in your opinion? (It's an old girl, c3500hd chevy 02')
55 VDC for mppt is pretty useless with today's solar panels which are 49V open circuit at 25C
Regarding alternator - so starting my truck for 3 hours to charge the batteries is not a viable option in your opinion? (It's an old girl, c3500hd chevy 02')
as I said - Because most solar panels manufactured today require a higher mppt voltage to work....you'll than need to search for older / second hand solar panels to create your array, that's all, definitely objectiveI don’t use my Kisae for solar, but the spec is what it is ,,, As you suggested panels will need to be matched to the charger. “Useless” is “Subjective” not Objective, but I believe an array could be configured to give a decent amount of energy. 35vdc @ 80a is 2800w. If you think 2800w is useless so be it ,,, I run a 300sf Cabin off a 600w array;
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As per you running the “Old Girl” @ idle for 3 hours,,, I do not have your vehicle specs nor do I understand your situation, but a Honda 2200 Generator ( ultra quiet ), can provide about 1800W continuously.
So what I believe is useless is a Solar Array without the Sun. @BartonB msybe you can expand on why you think this 55vdc max Solar MPPT is useless to you ??
Seems like 100-130A 12V...To get started, Google the specs on your alternator to see how many amps the alternator is rated at.
as I said - Because most solar panels manufactured today require a higher mppt voltage to work....you'll than need to search for older / second hand solar panels to create your array, that's all, definitely objective
Cool that's a good use caseIt is pretty common to put 150 - 250 watt ish size panels on vans.
They are available in nominal 18 and 36 volt Vmp.
My son and I have put panels on various vehicles and that size range is really convenient for lifting and mounting panels on a vehicle.
I am not endorsing the products, just pointing out that for instance on a Transit, panels that are 59 - 62 inches long x ~ 25 inches wide, mounted cross wise are pretty convenient.
as I said - Because most solar panels manufactured today require a higher mppt voltage to work....you'll than need to search for older / second hand solar panels to create your array, that's all, definitely objective
If you do not already own one, get a DC clamp style, hand held amp meter. Harbor Freight has them. Start your vehicle with no headlights on, no radio, no heater fan, no wipers or any other load devices that will draw current. Put the clamp meter around the cable that runs to your alternator. Record the amp draw. Then, turn on the headlights, record the cumulative amp draw. Do this for each of your loads, each time recording the cumulative amp draw.What's next?
Thanks!If you do not already own one, get a DC clamp style, hand held amp meter. Harbor Freight has them. Start your vehicle with no headlights on, no radio, no heater fan, no wipers or any other load devices that will draw current. Put the clamp meter around the cable that runs to your alternator. Record the amp draw. Then, turn on the headlights, record the cumulative amp draw. Do this for each of your loads, each time recording the cumulative amp draw.
Then, calculate the number of spare amps available form you alternator (= alternator rated amps minus cumulative recorded amps).
IMHO, I would not continuously draw more than 60% of the alternator's rated amps to prevent overheating the alternator.
So, the spare amps would be calculated assuming that the alternator is derated by 60%. Now you know how many spare amps you can allocate to a DC DC charger without over working the alternator.
NB: The alternator's amp capacity is much less at idle compared to higher RPM's.
Consequently, I do not run my DC DC charger when driving in town at low idle.
I am conservative and do not want to risk burning out my alternator. As a matter of fact, I carry a spare alternator in case of an emergency.
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Thanks!
Might be easier to just get a generator...
I don't drive much, driving to a place and stay for a few weeks
What is the efficiency of an alternator vs generator in fuel consumption? Is it substantial?