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Parallel 6000xps transfer time. What will the increase in ms effect?

ScropusGobbleBottom

Corn Pop was a bad dude.
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As soon as SS gets them in, they will be shipping my second 6000xp.

I am a little concerned about the increase in transfer time to grid on overload or end of discharge.

Will a PS4 and computer restart on grid pass thru?
How will my window AC like it?
How will my fridge and freezer like it?

Spec sheet says <30ms for parallel
Individual says <15ms

APL setting for single 6000xp says 20ms
UPS setting for single says 10ms

let me know what to expect.

Thanks, you all!
 
It all depends on the equipment, each model of TV will react different, and will always depend on the quality of power supply the appliance has. I had 2x LV6548s and with them in parallel, the transfer time was greater than 50ms. The TVs and PS5 never cared, the microwave never lost track of time, but the RV A/Cs would always skip a step and restart. It depends on the appliance
 
The whole concept of relying on a short transfer time between external AC and battery/solar, for any inverter, is foreign to me. Victron says theirs is so fast it won't affect sensitive electronics, and I find that laughable. It's absolutely noticeable! If you have any sort of sensitive electronics (computer, modem, router, gaming device, etc.) PUT IT ON A DECENT UPS.
 
It all depends on the equipment, each model of TV will react different, and will always depend on the quality of power supply the appliance has. I had 2x LV6548s and with them in parallel, the transfer time was greater than 50ms. The TVs and PS5 never cared, the microwave never lost track of time, but the RV A/Cs would always skip a step and restart. It depends on the appliance
I sure hope I am as lucky as you!
Right now with only one 6000xp, the only thing I notice is the window ac unit chugs once.
 
I sure hope I am as lucky as you!
Right now with only one 6000xp, the only thing I notice is the window ac unit chugs once.
Interested in this exact topic as well. Now it’s great, family has no idea if grid is down or I’m testing unless it’s hot and AirCon stops or they look at the oven clock. Don’t want to elongate the transfer time by adding another
 
Interested in this exact topic as well. Now it’s great, family has no idea if grid is down or I’m testing unless it’s hot and AirCon stops or they look at the oven clock. Don’t want to elongate the transfer time by adding another
I was thinking of just not paralleling them if it is a problem.
It would certainly lessen the value of the setup tho as the unused power potential wouldn't be combined.

As it stands right now, I try not to go over 2300 watts/leg to make room for compressor surge and other unexpected things.
 
Interested in this exact topic as well. Now it’s great, family has no idea if grid is down or I’m testing unless it’s hot and AirCon stops or they look at the oven clock. Don’t want to elongate the transfer time by adding another
I think this is where the chargeverter comes in..... lol

Because the 6000XP switches everything to grid when charging starts, you cant use the charger on the 6000xp either without the transfer time.
 
Now it’s great, family has no idea if grid is down or I’m testing unless it’s hot and AirCon stops or they look at the oven clock.
YES, its a luxury that I wont let go of!
Might have to use 2 6000xps to use for a grid and then an 18Kpv to bring it all together lol
 
I think this is where the chargeverter comes in..... lol

Because the 6000XP switches everything to grid when charging starts, you cant use the charger on the 6000xp either without the transfer time.
I have my dual 6000XP’s set to SBU according to the working modes document (AC Charging = disabled, On-Grid SOC% =20%, Off-Grid Cut-off SOC%=15%) and when the battery drops to 20% the charging kicks-on with no impact to my loads. Once the Battery reaches 30% SOC charging stops and again no impact to loads. I’ve been trying to avoid Bypass Mode and this seems to work for me.

When my Air kicks on I’m getting a surge that is causing issues, but my loads (including my hot water heater) under normal conditions works fine with the above setup.
 
Why did you decided to avoid bypass mode?
Maybe avoid was the wrong word, this configuration allows me to use my solar and batteries and seems to minimize grid usage.

When my Air kicks-on I get a surge and a EPS High Voltage warning, and it switches to bypass mode for a couple of minutes. I don’t think that should happen as I have a soft start and in rush current is around 26amps.

Currently, I do notice my LED lights dim, but no impact to my sensitive stove clock, TV or other electronics. I do agree that a decent UPS should be part of the overall system.

I’ve definitely have surge issues that I’m working through, particularly trying to power on my air w/out grid present, but the above config is close.
 
Maybe avoid was the wrong word, this configuration allows me to use my solar and batteries and seems to minimize grid usage.

When my Air kicks-on I get a surge and a EPS High Voltage warning, and it switches to bypass mode for a couple of minutes. I don’t think that should happen as I have a soft start and in rush current is around 26amps.

Currently, I do notice my LED lights dim, but no impact to my sensitive stove clock, TV or other electronics. I do agree that a decent UPS should be part of the overall system.

I’ve definitely have surge issues that I’m working through, particularly trying to power on my air w/out grid present, but the above config is close.
Thanks for the testimonial.

I am confused tho. What do you use the chargeverter for? And why?
I am just wondering if it is something I should consider.
 
My plan with the chargeverter is to use it as my charger of last resort. If i loose power and no sun, I will feed my generator into the chargeverter to recharge my batteries.
 

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