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(re)Wiring battery to distribution panel - negative straight to ground?

dpgator33

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Looking for some guidance here, because I'm not 100% sure of what I'm seeing here. I'm nearing the end of a solar/battery/inverter charger upgrade to my travel trailer. Everything I've read and come to learn and understand about how to wire the battery to the distribution panel involves both positive and negative leads from the battery going (eventually) to the positive and negative posts on the DC side of the panel.

Yesterday I was working on pulling out the existing battery wiring, cutting to new length where needed, terminating, etc. On the positive side, the existing lead from the battery goes to a terminal block on the chassis near the front of the trailer, which also has positive leads from the trailer level motor and breakaway detection thingy. From that terminal block, a wire is ran to the battery cutoff switch, and the output from the cutoff goes directly to the positive on the distribution panel. That all makes complete sense to me, as you want to still be able to have your leveler and breakaway operational even if the battery switch is off.

Now, I was expecting the negative lead from the battery to be routed similarly, but it's not. It goes straight to the chassis where it's screwed in with a ring terminal. At the distribution panel, the negative is connected to a bus bar, along with the negative leads from the DC powered devices in the trailer. From the busbar there's also a wire that is screwed into the chassis. So basically on the negative side there is no "direct" connection from the panel to the battery, other than the chassis itself - which is metal and therefore a conductor so I guess that's OK? Seems a little cut rate or downright dangerous, but I'm not an electrician, so I really am not sure.

What I'm thinking I need to do is eliminate the wire going from the busbar at the distribution panel to the chassis, and run a new cable from the main busbar(Lynx distributor) to the panel busbar. And also the wire that went from the existing battery negative to the chassis - that cable is just loose now as the existing battery has already been disconnected. My one and only DC ground is going to be from the Lynx Distributor to the chassis. Does that sound right?

For reference, my project plan will follow the guidance here except I won't have a DC-DC charger from the alternator and my capacity for both battery and solar is a little less than shown.
 
Optimal grounding would see everything go to a single bus bar, including the battery, and have a large "ground" cable to chassis.

Going straight from the battery to chassis, then devices to chassis is an automotive thing which can work but frankly sucks compared to the alternative.

It's not dangerous in itself but it often makes for some bad connections between the battery and your devices.
 
Your trailer uses the chassis as the return path.
Not optimal but saves the manufacturer some cash.

This thread is a good read for your setup.

One possible problem with having a dc/dc charger in parallel with the tow cable is you have 2 paths back to the starter battery/alternator.

One will be serious having guage wire and the other will be 10 awg at best.
If the dc/dc charger negative becomes disconnected the tow cable return will likely melt.

Which dc/dc charger did you buy?
 
I mentioned at the end that I will not have the DC-DC charger, so will not be charging the battery with the alternator. I will be pulling the fuse for alternator charging in the engine compartment. I'm not actually 100% clear on whether I need to do that. I think the reason for including the 30A DC-DC charger is because the alternator just won't effectively/quickly charge a large battery bank. And with a 30A charger, the OEM cable from the alternator just isn't big enough (typically 12AWG) to safely perform that function, and therefore I would need to replace the existing alternator charging cable with 6AWG ran all the way from the engine compartment, which I really just didn't want to do. Not as part of this project anyhow. I THINK I can still charge the batteries with my alternator and not pull the plug, it just won't charge very quickly. But to be safe I'm just going to pull the fuse and rely on solar or shore power for charging. I plan to monitor the battery over time and occasionally "top up" with solar as needed when we go stretches when we're not using the trailer.

After thinking about it a minute, I think maybe the reason for not using the alternator for battery charging in this setup is due to the specific battery composition and charging profile/requirements that make it necessary to have a charger specific for lifepo4. I could be wrong, but I'm not gonna chance it unless and until I'm certain of it.
 
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Optimal grounding would see everything go to a single bus bar, including the battery, and have a large "ground" cable to chassis.

Going straight from the battery to chassis, then devices to chassis is an automotive thing which can work but frankly sucks compared to the alternative.

It's not dangerous in itself but it often makes for some bad connections between the battery and your devices.
Thanks for the confirmation! Guess I'm ordering some more cable :)
 
I wire my systems as this. Battery negative -> shunt -> Negative BusBar -> chassis connection (Plus) neg BusBar -> other devices. I always run a dedicated negative cable to critical devices such as inverter, solar charge controller, and mains connect charger.
 
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