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Rejuvenate old rolls batteries

Thanks - I was wondering if (last resort) it's possible to clean the plates, but I think this is not going to be practical.
What about changing the electrolyte? If the high voltage was successful in dislodging material from the plates and the electrolyte is contaminated and deficient in SO4 - is there a reason this wouldn't be doable?
 
Discharge-> sulfuric acid from electrolyte combines with lead plate (neg plate) and lead-oxide (pos plate) to create a soft mossy like lead sulfate on plate, leaving water behind in electrolye from the sulfuric acid missing its sulphur molecule.

Charging reverses process to put sulphur with water back to sulfuric acid in electrolyte and plates lead sulfate goes back to pure lead. This all assumes the batteries have not been laying around in discharge state so the lead sulfate is now hard crystals, This is why specific gravity of electrolyte drops during discharge and rises during charging based on percent of acid in electrolyte. (see table below)

Lead sulfate left for some time without recharging creates hard crystals that will not recharge. Best you can do is a controlled overcharge (equalization) and hope the vigorous bubbling and heating will knock off the hardened sulfate crystals so lead plate surface is re-exposed. The dislodged crystals work their way to bottom of cell. If lead sulfate is not fully hardened some of it will recharge back to lead and sulfuric acid with the equalization controlled overcharging.

This at least frees up the plate surface so it can participate in cell performance. Hardened sulfate coated plate surface is insulated so inactive to normal cell operation reducing cell capacity.

Any sulfate crystals that dislodge or are left on plates lock up sulphur that cannot be recharged back to sulfuric acid in electrolyte so electrolyte specific gravity will be lower than normal.

You should get a float based hydrometer. Not one of the crappy auto parts store plastic junk units.View attachment 77989
Before you start measure battery voltage and specific gravity for each cell. Record the readings.
Start with a normal charge cycle as manf. recommends but instead of stopping at absorb voltage (like 14.5v) keep going up to 15.5-16.5v.

This is the controlled overcharge called equalization. Leave battery caps off and expect a great deal of vigorous bubbling,. The bubbling is oxygen coming off the positive plates and hydrogen off the negative plates, so it would not be a good time to smoke a cigarette while doing the equalization. This eats up water from electrolyte so have distilled water to replenish it. Never let electrolyte drop below surface of plates as viewed down cell cap ports. As the bubbles pop they may spit some electrolyte acid around area of battery so be careful. Don't wear good clothes as they will have acid holes in them afterwards. I normally do for no more than 2 hour at the high voltage or until battery gets uncomfortably warm to touch. Let it cool back down than check specific gravity of electrolyte again to see if you have raised it any. If after three attempts you don't see any increase in SG you have gone about as far as you can go. Further equalization will just shed lead from plates contaminating electrolyte and ruining battery.

There is a semi-legit last ditch option but I am not a real believer in it. Epsons Salt will react with and dissolve lead sulfate crystals. It does contaminate electrolyte somewhat however. There are some Youtube videos with procedures for this process

View attachment 77990
Thanks, lots of good info. Is a float based hydrometer one with a separate float and measuring cylinder? My hydro meter is for home brew and doesn't go high enough. I've got a "hydro volt" coming, hopefully that will be ok? It seems to be purpose made for renewable energy applications. 1641123702630.png
 
Thanks, lots of good info. Is a float based hydrometer one with a separate float and measuring cylinder? My hydro meter is for home brew and doesn't go high enough. I've got a "hydro volt" coming, hopefully that will be ok? It seems to be purpose made for renewable energy applications. View attachment 78024
Same basic thing. What I like about an unattached float is it is simple and pretty accurate if calibation scale insertion was done correctly, Anything with a mechanical hinge or pivot is prone to have problems.
 
What about changing the electrolyte? If the high voltage was successful in dislodging material from the plates and the electrolyte is contaminated and deficient in SO4 - is there a reason this wouldn't be doable?
Changing electrolyte rarely improves anything, I got a brand new battery that was severely overcharged to point it shedded lead into electrolyte. Electrolyte looked like it had graphite mixed in. Because it was new there was little chance of any sulfation. I thought if there was any chance of recovery the electrolyte would need changing, but no joy,. It is also very messy process and all the top case compartments makes getting all the electrolyte out difficult. Also the separators soak up a lot of electrolyte that will not come out.

Most important thing to realize is once cell is filled with electrolyte it becomes an intertwined system. Any discharge and sulfation has converted electrolyte sulphur from the acid to plates.

The best that can be done is after as much sulfate is knocked off plates and battery is working but less capacity then some small amount of electrolyte can be removed and replaced with concentrated acid to re-establish normal electrolyte SG. This is effectively replacing the sulphur that has been taken out of the system by being locked up in the sulfate crystals that broke off and dropped to bottom of battery case.

Deep cycle batteries have thicker lead plates and space at bottom of battery below plate stack to allow for the sulfate droppings to collect.
 
Thanks, lots of good info. Is a float based hydrometer one with a separate float and measuring cylinder? My hydro meter is for home brew and doesn't go high enough. I've got a "hydro volt" coming, hopefully that will be ok? It seems to be purpose made for renewable energy applications.
The Hydrovolt is an excellent hydrometer, it's also temperature compensating which is nice ;)
 
Op hasn’t given any specific information about the current condition of them.
If they have enough charge to tell if a cell is shorted I would walk away. I have spent lots of hours trying to recover from a shorted cell. Depending on conditions I would definitely charge in a protected area. Exploding batteries are a mess.
Epson salt is right up there with eating Tide pods. Just because they do it on the internet doesn’t make it a good idea.
Lots of equalization in your future.
 
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