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Renogy DC DC Charger w/ MPPT

First post, and I'm using the DCC50S in my first system build. I've got everything installed and working, but I have questions on the best 'User' settings for my scenario.

I have the DCC50S in the back of my truck camper with a single 100Ah Renogy battery, a BT2 bluetooth module, and Renogy's 500A shunt with monitor screen. I'm only using a portable 100w solar panel at the moment, so nothing installed on the roof. I drive my truck almost daily, but only need the aux battery intermittently. Given that the DCC's Li profile will keep the battery at 14.4V, and in my use at a 100% SOC, I'm trying to understand how best to set up the 'User' profile to prevent anything beyond an 80-85% SOC. I know something like this was mentioned a few times in the thread (I skimmed through the whole thing), but I'm not sure I got the answer to my question. What Boost and Float voltages should I set in the User profile to achieve this?

For what it's worth, I wired the signal wire into a switch I have in the dash, hoping I could just turn the charger on and off manually, but this isn't how the DCC works. It will always charge if above 13.2V from the starter battery, and the signal wire only tells it to keep charging if the voltage drops below that. Worst case scenario I could install a battery isolator solenoid, but I'm trying to avoid any additional wiring/hardware if possible.
 
First post, and I'm using the DCC50S in my first system build. I've got everything installed and working, but I have questions on the best 'User' settings for my scenario.

I have the DCC50S in the back of my truck camper with a single 100Ah Renogy battery, a BT2 bluetooth module, and Renogy's 500A shunt with monitor screen. I'm only using a portable 100w solar panel at the moment, so nothing installed on the roof. I drive my truck almost daily, but only need the aux battery intermittently. Given that the DCC's Li profile will keep the battery at 14.4V, and in my use at a 100% SOC, I'm trying to understand how best to set up the 'User' profile to prevent anything beyond an 80-85% SOC. I know something like this was mentioned a few times in the thread (I skimmed through the whole thing), but I'm not sure I got the answer to my question. What Boost and Float voltages should I set in the User profile to achieve this?

For what it's worth, I wired the signal wire into a switch I have in the dash, hoping I could just turn the charger on and off manually, but this isn't how the DCC works. It will always charge if above 13.2V from the starter battery, and the signal wire only tells it to keep charging if the voltage drops below that. Worst case scenario I could install a battery isolator solenoid, but I'm trying to avoid any additional wiring/hardware if possible.
I would just install a switch or relay on the alternator input and keep the charging profile the same. It's good to have one anyways, and if you ever need to you won't have to adjust any settings to charge rapidly and fully.
 
I would just install a switch or relay on the alternator input and keep the charging profile the same. It's good to have one anyways, and if you ever need to you won't have to adjust any settings to charge rapidly and fully.
I should add... I'm using an 80 amp breaker between the starter battery and charger and using that as a switch already, but using that as a switch on a regular basis isn't ideal.

The only drawback to with this approach is if I ever end up with installed solar, I'd miss out on the trickle charge capability. Although, if I keep the SoC below 100% it won't trickle charge, anyway.

EDIT to add: I found this post which says that this charger will get the battery full, but then let the voltage drop to 13.2 (boost recover) before charging again. This would equate to around 70% SOC. For my needs, this would also work fine. I've not tested that is operates this way, though.
Nevermind the above. I set the Boost Duration for 10 minutes on the Li profile, and after 12, it was still in boost charge. So this setting doesn't appear to do anything in the Lithium profile even though it's editable in the app.
 
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so this is my first post as well so bear with me I have a DCC 50 S and a 240 W solar panel when I use the multimeter on my solar panel at the inputs I’m getting about 27.5 V the DCC 50 S says it can only handle 25 V. So I’m getting a PVT voltage fault Is there a way to reduce this?
 
so this is my first post as well so bear with me I have a DCC 50 S and a 240 W solar panel when I use the multimeter on my solar panel at the inputs I’m getting about 27.5 V the DCC 50 S says it can only handle 25 V. So I’m getting a PVT voltage fault Is there a way to reduce this?

Reducing the voltage of the current panel will require some electronics. The other ways are to:
1. Ditch the panel and get a smaller one. Smaller in terms of Voc. It needs to be well under the 25 volt limit, especially if you will use it in cold weather.
2. Ditch the Renogy. It's limiting what PV you can use.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
 
so this is my first post as well so bear with me I have a DCC 50 S and a 240 W solar panel when I use the multimeter on my solar panel at the inputs I’m getting about 27.5 V the DCC 50 S says it can only handle 25 V. So I’m getting a PVT voltage fault Is there a way to reduce this?
It is INSANE that renogy makes an mppt controller with a 25V limit!
Nobody should make on with less than 100V...
Im sure renogy does it so you are locked into buying their panels.
 
It is INSANE that renogy makes an mppt controller with a 25V limit!
Nobody should make on with less than 100V...
Im sure renogy does it so you are locked into buying their panels.

Welcome to the forum @crawllander

There is a lot of knowledge & wisdom here. What @HRTKD and @Supervstech wrote above is pretty much bang on IMO. After you get involved in this hobby a bit more & understand the relationships between the various components you will remember the two comments above & see “The Corporate Plays” that are made to push you towards “proprietary components”. AIO “All In One” proprietary boxes can also be “tricky” this way.

It is tough, as before we know about such things ,,, we don’t even know that we don’t know.


IMG_1264.jpeg


I recently purchased a Kisae 1250 ( they make a 12100 now 😳 );


IMG_1265.jpeg



So 32vdc max ,,, but is gets you out of the realm of ridiculous.


The Kisae DMT 12100 ( 100 amp ) is a little better on the PV input voltage;


IMG_1266.jpeg

The 12100 is new & if that interests you, best to contact Kisae about the specs & manual.




I do not have solar on my Promaster Van, & use the Kisae 1250 as an almost 100% exclusive charger for my van house batteries from the Alternator.




If you tell us a little more about your setup or needs/wants we might be able to help.
 
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