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Renogy DCC50S firstimer

Thanks boondox. Yes, you are right, will check it tomorrow and let you know. The fuse must be OK as I tried one of 60 amps and the one I have now of 80amps (I thought the 60 amps one was triggering because was ' only' 60). Thanks again!
 
Between the heat and the fact that you had the same problem with a 60 amp breaker I have a bad feeling. Still, check the input amps and double check all connections and crimps. Good luck and pretty please come back and tell us what the problem is so we can add to the knowledge bank.
 
Hi all: OK I did my home work.
I changed all the set up to the front, close to the car battery. I attached all with the Renogy 'official' cables from a 2000w inverter (I think they are 4 awg -maybe 2?- but enough for 50 amps). I tried the 80 amp breaker (and later a new one I had of 60 amps, just in case). In all cases after 1.45-2 minutes the breaker 'jumps'. My ampere only works for AC (yesterday was giving me 0.33 A and I new something was wrong so today with the manual I found out that the option for DC only measures volts :-( ) I checked volts of the car battery and were in 14.17 (at the car battery and at the charger). Leisure battery13.18V at the battery and same at the charger. All the time the battery was getting a flat 50.3 -51 amps (as per the BMS).
Not sure if I need to buy an ampere, but what can be the reason for the charger to be sucking 80 amps and 'only' sending 51 amps to the leisure battery? Malfunction? What is your recommendation? Buy an ampere, or just send back to Renogy? I bought it in March... it will not be easy.
I am not happy with them, I expend 1.000 eur and the 2 expensive items were bad, this charger and the inverter.
Thanks a lot guys.
 
markbrouwer said:
Hi all: OK I did my home work.
I changed all the set up to the front, close to the car battery. I attached all with the Renogy 'official' cables from a 2000w inverter (I think they are 4 awg -maybe 2?- but enough for 50 amps). I tried the 80 amp breaker (and later a new one I had of 60 amps, just in case). In all cases after 1.45-2 minutes the breaker 'jumps'. My ampere only works for AC (yesterday was giving me 0.33 A and I new something was wrong so today with the manual I found out that the option for DC only measures volts :-( ) I checked volts of the car battery and were in 14.17 (at the car battery and at the charger). Leisure battery13.18V at the battery and same at the charger. All the time the battery was getting a flat 50.3 -51 amps (as per the BMS).
Not sure if I need to buy an ampere, but what can be the reason for the charger to be sucking 80 amps and 'only' sending 51 amps to the leisure battery? Malfunction? What is your recommendation? Buy an ampere, or just send back to Renogy? I bought it in March... it will not be easy.
I am not happy with them, I expend 1.000 eur and the 2 expensive items were bad, this charger and the inverter.
Thanks a lot guys.
Click to expand...

Apologies if this has already been discussed but what are the quality of your breakers? I know many people here have bought cheap breakers off amazon/aliexpress only to find that they cant handle the rated current. If the breaker is not the problem, and Renogy support cannot give you better detailed troubleshooting instructions, I might pursue a return/replacement/warranty claim.

Maybe other more experienced members may be able to give you better troubleshooting advice.
 
Hi Dzl, thanks, all ideas are welcome. Not sure if they are bad.. yes are from amazon but not the cheapest ones and I tried 3 (80, 60 and 50). They seam to work, after a while they get 'cold' and you can reset them (they never feel hot). See the picture.

WhatsApp Image 2020-10-15 at 21.59.20.jpeg
 
A 12 volt 2000 watt inverter should have minimum 2/0 awg cables.
Do you have a shunt based battery monitor?
You could use that to measure the amperage.
 
markbrouwer said:
Hi Dzl, thanks, all ideas are welcome. Not sure if they are bad.. yes are from amazon but not the cheapest ones and I tried 3 (80, 60 and 50). They seam to work, after a while they get 'cold' and you can reset them (they never feel hot). See the picture.

View attachment 25097
Click to expand...
That breaker looks like cheap amazon junk.
 
hahahaha ok maybe they are :-( I am 'firs timer'. Could be the reason? Is not strange 3 of them are not working? and right away.. maybe after 1 hour of 50 amps continuously.. but always after 2 minutes.
 
Wait, I'm not super familiar with the DCC50S, or how to wire something like this but from the picture it looks like you are directly connecting "Starter Battery Positive" to "Common Negative" is that the case?
 

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Dzl said:
Wait, I'm not super familiar with the DCC50S, or how to wire something like this but from the picture it looks like you are directly connecting "Starter Battery Positive" to "Common Negative" is that the case?
Click to expand...
Hi, nono. Maybe looks in the picture. The one with the breaker goes to + car battery, other red to the leisure bettery + and the 2 negatives to the car and battery negatives (one negative is red too...)
 
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Do use the shunt and see how much the DCC50S is pulling. Or get a clamp on DC current meter, they sure are handy to have. I think we need to know the input current before we can declare the unit to be malfunctioning. It does seem to be putting out the correct current . How hot does it get?
 
Today and yesterday not hot at all. After those 2 minutes, nothing was hot, not cables, not breakers and not the charger. It went hot the first day I tried (Will also said in his video that his unit was getting hot). At that time I tried without breaker and keep it running for 10-15 minutes, giving all the time 50-51 amps to the battery. I will try the shunt or buy the DC ammeter (my bad, I assumed as was measuring volts in DC and AC will do the same with current...bought in amazon too...:censored:)
Thanks a lot guys! Will let you know
 
Hi all! OK, charger is not kaput... the breakers are crap. I run the charger through the alternator for 20 minutes and during the all time the amps didn't go above 61 amp, is that the normal? Not sure why the 80 amps breaker triggers at that current but at least is the easiest problem to fix.
Thanks all the community very much appreciated
R
Mark
 
Good to hear and thanks for coming back and letting us know. I' not surprised it was the breaker. it is easy to think that because breakers have been around a long tie that they are a simple technology. Just pick a breaker with the right amps and good to go, right? Nope. Especially with DC it isn't easy to interrupt high currents. And it isn't even as easy as picking the right amps from a good manufacturer. Look through the spec. sheet to make sure that what you are getting is capable of interrupting the maximum fault current you may experience. There are other factors too and there was is great thread here: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/circuit-breaker-orientation-question.13378/#post-149607 that has some great info.
 
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