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Run AC unit on solar and the rest of the house with grid at the same time

blakezeros

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Jul 13, 2024
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Texas
Hi All,

I'm new here and want to know whether it is possible to run a 5-ton AC unit with solar while powering the rest of the house with the grid, with the ability to switch to solar power for the entire house if I lose grid power during a hurricane or other emergencies. I was affected by the recent Hurricane Beryl in Houston, TX, and I want to switch to solar power. The idea is also to run my AC unit with solar during the summer. My AC unit already has a micro-air soft starter. I'm considering the EG4 12K inverter with one EG4 wall mount 14.3kWh battery and gradually expanding/scaling up.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Sounds like you would have to put in an additional panel to split off the AC and inside blower from the main panel that is hooked to solar, then have a cutover option from the 2nd panel to the first like you would for a generator when you wanted to run the whole house on solar.
 
I don't know if the eg4 12k have special features for what you want. But the way I did mine was to install a reliance 50amp transfer box to my home panel. Then have my inverter and battery as off grid system and connect to the transfer switch. You can control what breaker you want to turn on, off or line on the transfer switch.
 
The most direct option would be just to disconnect the air conditioner from the main breaker... Add a new but separate breaker panel and only have the air conditioner on that panel... Feed that panel with the inverter
No. You want something called a Transfer Switch. You can switch between inverter and grid manually without backfeeding. In the event of power outage, all you have to do is switch all the breakers to the inverter and you can power your house. If battery is low from 3 plus days of low sunlight. You switch all breakers to grid and you have power while the inverter charge/idles.
 
Hi All,

I'm new here and want to know whether it is possible to run a 5-ton AC unit with solar while powering the rest of the house with the grid, with the ability to switch to solar power for the entire house if I lose grid power during a hurricane or other emergencies. I was affected by the recent Hurricane Beryl in Houston, TX, and I want to switch to solar power. The idea is also to run my AC unit with solar during the summer. My AC unit already has a micro-air soft starter. I'm considering the EG4 12K inverter with one EG4 wall mount 14.3kWh battery and gradually expanding/scaling up.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

Thanks.
Are you looking to get Get a connection agreement with your provider(center point?) or not get a connection agreement
 
I have been running a 5-ton AC (also with EasyStart) and most of my house off inverter the past two weeks during 100-plus/110-plus heat wave, with the individual circuits connected via Reliance transfer switch. Below are the limitations I've encountered.
  1. Even with EasyStart, the starting surge current still is significant, and the battery could be a limiting factor. I have two EG4 LifePower4 batteries, which combined give 200A discharge current (same as one EG4 wall mount battery's discharge current limit). If there is solar power output available (about 2 kW or more), the inverter (SRNE ASP 10 kW) can start the entire AC system (compressor plus the inside blower) reliably. But if the solar power output is low or none, then the two batteries alone often could not start the AC system. The 200A battery discharge rate (about 10 kW) could be a limiting factor. Depending on your situation, one EG4 wall mount battery might or might not be sufficient to reliably start your AC system. The transfer switch's ability to switch individual circuits (such as the compressor) between inverter and grid power has enabled me to run all circuits (including the AC compressor) off the inverter during the day and switch the compressor to grid power late in the day (but continuing to run the AC's insider blower and other house circuits off the inverter).
  2. The running power consumption of 5-ton AC system is pretty high, and unless you have equal or greater solar power output, having the AC on continuously will quickly outstrip the incoming solar power. The EasyStart's Bluetooth app shows the compressor's running current. Multiply the running current by 1.2 and multiply again by 240V should give a good estimate of your compressor's running power consumption. The reason for the 1.2 multiplier is explained in https://diysolarforum.com/threads/microair-easystart.61390/page-4#post-1010371.
  3. There is significant difference in power consumption between using the AC to hold house temperature vs. to lower house temperature (significantly higher power consumption to lower house temperature by even just one degree during hot days). Depending on your solar power output relative to your AC's running power consumption, you might need to be very strategic about the temperature you set your thermostat to.
  4. If you want to only reduce your power consumption, running only the compressor circuit off the inverter should move the bulk of the power consumption to the inverter. But if you want the ability to run the AC during power outages, you'll need to run also the inside blower circuit off the inverter. On my AC system, the inside blower consumes about 1 kW in addition to the compressor's power consumption.
  5. If you are considering the EG4 12KPv inverter, note that the AC output is 8 kW. It might be sufficient to run 5-ton AC compressor and inside blower, but it probably won't be sufficient to run your entire home including the AC. I found that running 5-ton AC and other house circuits can regularly exceed 8 kW (or 4 kW per leg).
  6. The timing of peak AC demand relative to peak solar power can be a factor. If your peak AC demand tend to occur after solar power output wanes (some locations have hottest temperature towards the end of the day, and temperature changes in well-insulated home might lag behind outside temperature), your battery capacity (even if you have sufficient solar power generation to charge your battery to 100%) will determine how long you can run your AC late in the day/evening.
 
OK, long food for thought for someone new to this

As noted above... the first question to answer is whether you plan to get a 'connection agreement' with your local provider (Power Company/ PoCo), or not. The answer to that question will determine most of what will follow.
In general, if you chose NOT to go the route of connection agreement (whose difficulty and expense varies by location) then safety, and all kinds of other reasons, that if you get solar or a battery, you need to make sure it is NOT possible (even with end-user mis-configuration of an inverter) to send power onto the grid. And doing so properly can get complicated in older residential suburban construction (or wherever)... do NOT trust lower-cost, less mature solution firmware claiming Zero export, without doing you due diligence on how reliable that is, how well it handles end-user 'oopses' and what PoCo response is to even momentary backfeeding onto grid without permission

So with that out of the way...
- A typical hybrid inverter is capable of grid-forming (ie, run local power with battery and/or solar) when grid power is down. In a grid-down scenario, you have to either manually, or planned in advance, which circuits you have enough 'juice' (kW, in this case) to run your electrical loads. Some people go the route of critical loads panel to not power entire house, but only select circuits when grid goes down. However, depending on your specific house wiring that may or may not be easy/inexpensive.

if you plan the non-permit/ no agreement route (ie off-grid), then the safe approach is to have complete separate circuits. Powering A/C by solar in this scenario isn't a thing, unless A/C on own circuit. And then it ONLY works when there is sufficient solar power, and if not careful, you could damage equipment when power is almost, but not quite enough especially if bouncing between thresholds such as cloud goes over. No A/C from a bit before sunset until a bit after sunrise. Unless you have transfer switch to cut A/C off its connection to solar to grid power (ie change which circuit its connected to... don't ignore cost to set up such wiring).
BUT the EG4 can the power switch automatically... and it can power any/all loads connected to it (within system limits), and can mix solar and grid power... which is typically what you want... use all solar to reduce bill. If adding a battery, then depends on whether you have Time-of-Use rates or not, and your priority as to whether to maximize self-consumption (ie using solar power vs from grid) or battery backup (ie, keep battery at/near 100% all the time in case of grid-outage).. That is up to you, but your outages tend to be storm related, which you will know about in plenty of time to change setting and fill batteries 'just in case', so leaving the inverter/batteries in such a max for outage scenario is not usually necessary/recommended... but, is up to you

So, when you cay use solar to power A/C, and grid for rest of house, that typically means (to those not new around here) that you mean separate circuits and an off-grid setup. But, you comment suggests to me that is NOT what you are looking for. Sounds like you are looking for a properly permitted inter-connection setup. In which case, the first place to start is to analyze your current electricity consumption, and then go from there.
- Beware, modern hybrid inverters are relatively new, and an uncertain lifespan. And lifespan will depend, in part.. I think, based on whether using DC string inverter built in vs AC coupling micro-inverter connected PV panels.. Pro's and Con's to AC vs DC connected panels... [I'd steer very clear of anyone who tells you there is only 1 right way to do it... they are clueless].
As such, a switch to bypass the hybrid inverter if/when it fails, is a good idea. Personally, I think the safer approach is consider hybrid inverter like a water heater.. outwardly looks great right up until it isn't. Do not expect same day service/repair. As neither I nor my family would appreciate a multi-day power outage due to a failed hybrid Inverter (possibly require electrician emergency visit to manually re-wire/bypass), a simple way to bypass the Inverter myself seems more than prudent ... just a suggestion
- The reason for figuring out your current usage is that with purchase and installation expense and wiring involved (especially if you aren't someone with professional electrician knowledge), upgrading hybrid Inverter is NOT something you want to do with any frequency. So you need to understand your peak electrical loads, common heavy load state, and any planned significant electrical load changes (like going from ICE to EV, or cutting over natural gas to electrical appliances (if such applies to you)... And then what electrical circuits you are OK with NOT being powered in a grid-down situation
That will dictate the size inverter you need. For ex.. an EG4 12k would only be 'ok' for me, as I have all natural gas appliances, and low A/C usage or other heavy electrical loads. with low background loads (frig and misc others) EVSE at 16A and brand new heat pump Air Conditioner for only part of house... I'm pulling 30A, or a little more. So, for me, the 12K or any other devices only support 7-8kW continuous just doesn't give me ANY headroom for future electrification (which I expect)... I share that thought process/analysis to give you something to think about. I have family in TX, and their electrical usage is 3-4X mine, so something to consider.
For me, critical circuit panel makes no sense, as I have limited high kW draw circuits, and both of them remotely controllable, so if grid down, I can directly control them easily ... so why both with critical load panel? just power whole house by hybrid inverter ... but I recognize that is my situation, and ymmv. And in some case, some home automation to turn off system/circuits when grid-down may be easier/cheaper than setting up a critical loads panel and re-wiring

As for gradually expanding/scaling up
- recognize that if roof-mounting PV panels, most contractors won't come back to add a couple panels at a time. IF you have experience or friend who can work on roof, not damage anything, and add panels... then great... but for professionally installed roof panels, such expansion is uncommon/infrequent/rare (yes people expand, but it is a major undertaking, not something done incrementally...
again, not referring to DIY setups ... though even then, wiring, mounting systems, etc... gradually adding panels is not something one reads about (that I've seen)
- mentioned hybrid inverter sizing above
- Yes, people do add batteries over time (especially with new chemistries/technology and improving batter performance...).. but mixing battery tech over longer periods of time can be complicated to do safely and properly.. potentially major risk if done wrong.. it depends.

Best wishes to enjoying the solar journey
 
I put the compressor and the air handler on transfer switches, so they can run on grid or solar.
heatpumpcompressortransferswitch copy 2.jpeg
The compressor has an easy-start, really made a difference for the Schneider XW Pro inverters.

Air handler start and load are minimal, compared to the compressor.
HVAC_air_handler_switch_july28_2023 copy.jpeg
I found used Square-D transfer switches on ebay for a fraction of the $$$ new ones cost.

I don't sell back, just use the grid support feature when there is no PV to run the loads.
Batteries are in "standby", not used unless there is no grid or PV.
Batteries run the heat pump all night just fine, if needed.
 

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