1. the converter is powered only when shore power is turned on. Position one on switch provides power to the 30 amp breaker which feeds the 15 amp breaker. From the 15 amp it goes thru the transfer switch and then out to the converter on the RV power panel.as shown the converter will be powered off the inverter via the transfer switch, best way I've found is to have a sub panel feet the inverter power circuits and a sub panel.
2. make sure your BMS can power the surge of the inverter
3. how are you fusing the inverter and SCC?
I've been using theses 4 place ANL fuse blocks from SMD, just for installs like yours.1. the converter is powered only when shore power is turned on. Position one on switch provides power to the 30 amp breaker which feeds the 15 amp breaker. From the 15 amp it goes thru the transfer switch and then out to the converter on the RV power panel.
2. No problem with surge, the inverter has a soft start and the BMS handles my loads fine.
3. Looks like that might be a problem? I will order a 70 amp fuse to place between the scc and the positive buss bar to start with.
fuse blockDo you have a link?
It pulls a max of 920 watts when running in heat mode.150A from the battery will get you about 1500W out from the inverter. Will that run your mini-split?
When the transfer switch is put to shore power, the ac line and neutral from the inverter are cut off. Only on shore power will the converter run. When the transfer switch is put in inverter mode, the positive power lead from the 15 amp breaker which supplies the converter is cut off at the transfer switch also. The converter can only run on shore power, it has no power when the inverter is running. The ac power panel can provide 40 amps at 13.6 volts to charge the battery if I have no sun. That will be good enough until the sun comes out. If I did not run that 15 amp converter line thru the transfer switch, I would have to manually turn that breaker off every time I switched to inverter power, this way it is automatic.Are you trying to reuse the existing converter to charge the LFP battery?
1. Look up the specs if it is compatible.
2. No idea how the Transfer switch is wired inside - but you are potentially creating a loop.
You charge from the converter to the battery - then to inverter which is powering the converter.
I have a few victron solar charge controllers and and I don't have a chassis ground. I did have to return one to victron for warranty replacement. Why do they need the chassis ground? I wonder if that's why one of them failed.Which solar charge controller are you planning to use? If you're using a Victron solar charge controller, it will need a chassis ground also. My Victron MPPT 100/50 requires that.
A shunt is recommended. It's a better gauge of state of charge than is voltage.
I have a few victron solar charge controllers and and I don't have a chassis ground. I did have to return one to victron for warranty replacement. Why do they need the chassis ground? I wonder if that's why one of them failed.
It has the ground connection, I will post a new diagram. I also believe I need to ground the incoming ground wire from the shore power to my chassis?Which solar charge controller are you planning to use? If you're using a Victron solar charge controller, it will need a chassis ground also. My Victron MPPT 100/50 requires that.
A shunt is recommended. It's a better gauge of state of charge than is voltage.