Solar Charge Controller Sizing

[Powder57]

I am in the process of designing an expanded solar system for my travel trailer. Currently have one 160W panel with a GoPower 30A controller charging 2 flooded LA 6V Trojan T105 wired in series. I am considering the following:

Batteries: 2 X 100Ah LiFEPO4 wired in parallel
Solar Array: 6 X 100W/5A panels wired as 3 sets of 2 panels wired in series then connected min parallel to the charge controller. This would send 48V/5W X 3 to the charge controller.

If this configuration is ok, I need some help in selecting the right solar charge controller. I am currently considering the Victron Smart Solar MPPT 100/50 vs the Renogy Rover 150/60. I would prefer the Victron but want to make sure I am safe with the 100V maximum.

My current thinking is to leave the old 160W system alone to run separately from the new system. My understanding is that its output will not be maximized but that it will not harm the batteries. At some point I may replace the charge controller with one that recognizes lithium batteries.

Thanks for any input to help an OG wrap his head around this technology!

 

[sunshine_eggo]

I am in the process of designing an expanded solar system for my travel trailer. Currently have one 160W panel with a GoPower 30A controller charging 2 flooded LA 6V Trojan T105 wired in series. I am considering the following:

Batteries: 2 X 100Ah LiFEPO4 wired in parallel
Solar Array: 6 X 100W/5A panels wired as 3 sets of 2 panels wired in series then connected min parallel to the charge controller. This would send 48V/5W X 3 to the charge controller.

If this configuration is ok, I need some help in selecting the right solar charge controller. I am currently considering the Victron Smart Solar MPPT 100/50 vs the Renogy Rover 150/60. I would prefer the Victron but want to make sure I am safe with the 100V maximum.

600W/12V = 50A (low voltage)
600W/14.4V = 42A (peak voltage)

3S 100W 12V panels should be below 75Voc, so the 100/50 will work for you.

My current thinking is to leave the old 160W system alone to run separately from the new system.

Agreed.

My understanding is that its output will not be maximized but that it will not harm the batteries. At some point I may replace the charge controller with one that recognizes lithium batteries.

This really depends on the controller. If you can program it to bulk/boost/absorption 13.8-14.4V and float at 13.5-13.6V, it's fine.

Any temperature compensation should be disabled, and the batteries must have low temperature charge protection built in.