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Solar Panel Fusing Options

myrkr

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Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
63
Hello, I've been trying to come up with a solution for how to fuse my 3 panels in parallel. My original intent had been to just use an MC4 3 to1 branch connector with inline 15A MC4 fuses on the positive side. My 3 Panasonic panels use 12AWG and I'm running 8AWG after the branch to my disconnect switch, and then to my Victron MPPT. After reading others experience and learning more about the differences between the only true MC4 (Staubli) and then all the MC4-like versions coupled with problems interchanging them I'm really wanting to just move away from the MC4 connectors and use some simple Blue Sea Busbars with a fuse for each panel on the positive side. The issue I'm running into is a fuse holder. All the larger fuse types (MEGA, ANL, etc.) that would allow for easy busbar to busbar fusing (like a Victron Lynx) are only rated up to 48V, most stop at 32V. So my other options are pigtail type inline cylinder fuse, or blade fuse holders, or din rail mountable cylinder fuse holders. I can't seem to find a source for a quality version of the pigtail inline types, most of the Amazon ones are random low quality ones and I'd gladly pay more for a known brand like BlueSea or Victron I can trust.

Here are the specs for my panels in case it helps

Panel Specs
Max Power (Pmax) 325W
Short Circuit Current (Isc) 6.03A
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc) 69.6V
Maximum Power Current (Ipmax) 5.65A
Maximum Power Voltage (Vpmax) 57.6V
Max system Voltage 600V
Series Fuses 15A

For context this is mounted in a DIY junction box on the roof of a van, so while I do have access if necessary, I won't routinely have easy access to inspect the connections. This is part of the reason why I'd rather not use the MC4 style connectors as it seems safer to just use fuses and bus bars that I can trust.

TL;DR Looking for high quality fusing options for my DIY junction box, using fuses between bus bars for my 3 solar panels connected in parallel. I'd like to find name brand fuse holders meant for something like a boat (or camper) with the intended use being a mobile application subject to vibration. The mounting location for the junction box is under the panels on the roof of my van, so while I do have access if needed I don't have easy regular access for inspection.

Looking for any advice. Thanks!
 
Thanks! Looks like a viable option for sure, I just need to do a little digging on the dimensions to see if I could pull off fitting a din rail and one of these in my enclosure.


Along with some 10x38 fuses: https://www.solar-electric.com/mnatm.html
15 amp max, 10 amp minimum.
Cool! I hadn't seen these before, so this might be an option for a lower profile version in case the DIN rail fuse holder is too tall to fit in my enclosure. Thank you!
 
Looked further into the options above and the touch safe fuse holder is unfortunately too tall for my junction box (Interior height of about 2"), so I started looking into the the Littlefuse 3 fuse holder blocks and they will fit. My question has to do with the wire connection type for these types of fuse blocks. I haven't used them before and am concerned with vibration since this will be van mounted and have ongoing vibration. I looked at Littefuses info and found the 3 options as follows, Screw with Pressure Plate, Screw, and Box Lug. I'm using 8AWG Ancor Marine wire and am wondering what wire connection type would be most resistant to coming loose from vibration? I originally envisioned using ring terminals on the wire ends and torquing the connection screw to spec, but maybe box lug is better?

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