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Solar Panels Direct Wired to Baseboard Heater

StuBoston

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Joined
Mar 29, 2022
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So my 700 sq ft. off-grid cabin is pretty cold all winter long. The winter temps are between 25 down to -5F. I want a way to keep the building passively warm while I'm there throughout the winter. The wood burning stove works well but because of very rocky remote roads, getting firewood to the property is very difficult in any significant quantity. So here's my thought. I've got some extra SanTan Solar 250w panels and I'm thinking about doing something like this for my off-grid cabin:


Basically it will go as follows:
6 panels in series - exterior 60a fused disconnect box - interior shut off swtch - direct wired to baseboard heater

6 panels wired in series
VOC: 225.6v, VMP: 181.8v
ISC: 53.1a, 1,750w

60a/240v fused disconnect switch

Dimplex 50" Linear Convector Electric Baseboard Heater Model: LC5020W31), 240V/208V, 2000/1500W White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017082EO4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1B85DPT9C95G3HM6D8XR

I've also thought about adding a 2,000w micro inverter inbetween the panels and the disconnect switch similar to this:


If I feed the heater directly with DC I will remove the thermostat on the baseboard heater and wire directly to the DC resistive elements. If I use the micro inverter I will leave the thermostat on. So as long as the sun is shining I would have heat produced from the heater, right? During the night I'll use the wood burning stove. Any significant dangers or problems I may run into? Cost is a large factor so I'm trying to do the best with what I have. Advice?
 
Why do you need AC, you have the correct or pretty close voltage. Hook it up with a suitable disconnect and fuse, leave the line voltage thermostat in as it might surprise you. Its a resistive load does not care if its AC or DC.
 
Notice the words... grid detection certificate. That means it won't work unless grid power is detected.

If you take David's amps and multiply them by 250, that is the watts which could be obtained with a power point controller. At least in my world there are lots of overcast in winter. With direct connect using a resistance value almost twice the ideal will get you more consistent heating or have a disconnect which will switch one parallel heating element out. Direct connect has horrible performance, but it is a no brains solution. I do a lot of PV heating. Too bad there aren't inexpensive options out there.
heater1.JPG
 
He does not need an inverter for DC and direct connection as I suggested and he did also?
 
I played with some AC heaters run in DC this past winter. One thing to consider is that some devices have an emergency overheat device to open the circuit in case it is run away and getting too hot. I would not depend on such a device when running on DC.
 
One thing to consider is that some devices have an emergency overheat device to open the circuit in case it is run away and getting too hot. I would not depend on such a device when running on DC.
Thats a great point, I hadnt thought of that. If my max PV wattage output is under the rated heater wattage I should be fine tho right? Unless there was some kind of fault surge in the system.
 
Why do you need AC, you have the correct or pretty close voltage. Hook it up with a suitable disconnect and fuse, leave the line voltage thermostat in as it might surprise you. Its a resistive load does not care if its AC or DC.
Good idea, maybe I'll look at the thermostat and board wiring and determine if removing the thermostat is even necessary. It would be great if the heater were controlled by the built in thermostat, not a wall mounted on/off switch. I don't plan on buying a separate DC thermostat because I wouldn't want to spend the extra $. If it gets too hot in the cabin I would just flip the inside switch. Manual temp control. (I doubt it will get too hot)
 
I'm going to try my original theory. It may take me a month or 2 but I'll report back on the success/failure.
 
Reporting back doesn't have much value if you don't have data. Anything burning up would be of interest. I'd like to see an accumulating wattmeter added to the system to get the actual watts produced with a direct connect system compared to what a solar calculator predicts. Nobody ever gives real data on direct connect performance. Power point heater controls will give pretty close to all the power a panel will produce all day. Direct connect will produce half the total power.
 
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