diy solar

diy solar

Stud to stud connection

magghuss

New Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2024
Messages
2
Location
Virginia
Hi, what's the best way to connect two components that both have studs, do you just need to cut a very short length of cable with a lug on either end? I've seen diy bars of flat copper drilled through to create a hole-hole conductor but am having trouble finding an off the shelf equivalent.

Context being: Im designing my first system (fully off grid) and trying to make it work with a 3000w/12v inverter I already have (which I now realize was probably a bad buy).

I'm leaning towards a 6x100ah, 12v parallel bank going to bus bars, and a 9in 4/0 wire going from the bus bar to my inverter. The fuse(holder) to bus bar connection is where I have two studs and don't know a straight forward way to connect them.

Also, I am starting to question whether it's worth it to just go ahead and shift to 48v so if you want to make arguments for that feel free though I'd still like an answer to making stud to stud connections for the future.

I'm looking at this fuse per recommendations on Will's site. https://www.currentconnected.com/product/mega-fuse-holder-bundle/

Thanks!
 
Thanks! That's exactly the kind of thing I was looking for.

Though I'm realizing now that a terminal mount fuse might be more straightforward, if I can find one that's slow-blow and can handle the amps
 
If you do 12v in parallel use a MRBF rated 125% of max battery discharge rate.


Don't trust amazon for fuses of any type, to many fakes

Skip Mega fuses all together, their AIC is to low even at 12v. They also tend to heat up more than others besides ANL.

12v is maxed out at 3000w, 234 amps plus surges. Fuse at 240amps.

If you switch to 48v there is more involved than just stringing the batteries in series and buying a new inverter.

The main thing is if you need higher than 3000w.

Note, most 12v batteries will only do 4s4p at max... so with 6 batteries you either have 2 extra or need 2 more for 4s2p at 48v. And you can only go 4p unless the mfg allows more.

I suspect that prohibition is because of the minor imbalance of parallel battery resistance causing some to charge faster than others. The more in parallel the more chance of issues.

So you are short 2 even in parallel.

What you need is 2 more batteries so you can do 4p2p which is oddball or maybe just use 2 batteries for other projects?

Maybe someone else will have a better idea
 
Hi, what's the best way to connect two components that both have studs, do you just need to cut a very short length of cable with a lug on either end? I've seen diy bars of flat copper drilled through to create a hole-hole conductor but am having trouble finding an off the shelf equivalent.

Context being: Im designing my first system (fully off grid) and trying to make it work with a 3000w/12v inverter I already have (which I now realize was probably a bad buy).

I'm leaning towards a 6x100ah, 12v parallel bank going to bus bars, and a 9in 4/0 wire going from the bus bar to my inverter. The fuse(holder) to bus bar connection is where I have two studs and don't know a straight forward way to connect them.

Also, I am starting to question whether it's worth it to just go ahead and shift to 48v so if you want to make arguments for that feel free though I'd still like an answer to making stud to stud connections for the future.

I'm looking at this fuse per recommendations on Will's site. https://www.currentconnected.com/product/mega-fuse-holder-bundle/

Thanks!
If your having trouble with bus bar sizing flexible options are available shown below.Screenshot_20240709-092439~2.png
 

diy solar

diy solar
Back
Top