Suggestions for Emergency/Temporary connection of RV Power System into House Elec Panel?

[PopDBop]

I'm only asking for suggestions for wiring in my Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM via an 30' extension cord/pigail into the house electrical panel only for critial loads during extended power outages (think hurricanes).

Here's the house electrical panel, with mains coming into the two 125A breakers. The panel is full. But I'm hoping I can make enough room with some tandem breakers of similar.



Suggestions anyone?

 

[timselectric]

It would need to be connected to a breaker, directly under the main breaker. And you have to install a breaker interlock plate. (This makes it so that both breakers can't be on at the same time)

 

[timselectric]

Like this
Siemens ECSBPK02 Generator Standby Power Mechanical Interlock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLCCM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_YJ1060H279M1GRWJJBJD

 

[timselectric]

Video

Siemens ECSBPK02 Generator Standby Power Mechanical Interlock https://www.amazon.com/vdp/52e9c8a10fb44c91aacb22bc700c7b8f

 

[time2roll]

To breakout critical loads only I believe a subpanel is needed.

Interlock is probably easiest to power the main panel direct but you will need to self manage the loads.

 

[timselectric]

They said temporary. So I suggested the cheapest and easiest solution.

 

[time2roll]

They said temporary. So I suggested the cheapest and easiest solution.

Yes combined with "critical loads" and "panel is full"

 

[timselectric]

A quad breaker AKA double twin (Same as the existing lower left breaker), will make room.

 

[chrisski]

I’m curious how much power you’re sending in the house and what a max wattage and overall KWH requirement is for the house?

Also what from the RV is providing power? A couple of golf cart batteries powering a 1000 watt inverter or a 5kw generator?

 

[time2roll]

Looks like the main bus has been replaced including extending the mains to reach. I would be inclined to start with a new panel instead of another patch. Is there a main box with a critical load subpanel as one unit?

 

[timselectric]

I’m curious how much power you’re sending in the house and what a max wattage and overall KWH requirement is for the house?

I'm assuming that it will only be a couple of lights. Since it will be powered by a 15 amp extension cord.

 

[PopDBop]

WOW. Great suggestions guys. Thank you.

Okay, to clarify a bit about my loads and needs, since some of you asked...

* To reiterate, this is only for TEMPORARY emergency use, such as an extended outage due to storms and such; not a permanent wired solution
* max input is single-phase 120vac @ 30 amps via a RV umbilical cord (extension cord) from a 3000W AIO inverter (Growatt at the moment) which I want to wire into the panel, in a safe, professional manner.
* 'critical' loads are: lights (low wattage, dimmable LED's, energy efficient fan(s), and a single inverter-type window AC (eg Midea U 8000 BTU drawing 500watts max), occasionally cooking appliances (inverter microwave, induction cooktop in low power settings). I haven't tried running all these loads together yet, but should probably test that today and see what the concurrent load looks like.
* Max concurrent load should not exceed 3000 watts max continuous output of the inverter, factoring some losses. So, a safe assumption is that I would try not to exceed 2400 watts concurrent continuous loading.

I don't know if that will change of your recommendations. But some people asked for a bit more info.

The top suggestions so far IMO are...
* The mechanical interlock for safety
* The quad 'double-twin' breaker for making more room (sometimes you just don't know what things are called.

So, if I understand correctly, if I can make room for two more free breakers, one on each 120v leg in the panel, I could wire my umbilical extension cord from the RV inverter into the two new breakers (hot from from the inverter to each of the breakers for each 120v leg of the panel). These two new breakers must be located next to the mains so I can utilize a mechanical safety interlock on the mains breakers as suggested. If that's correct, then the last question is how to handle grounding?

The panel of course is earth grounded, as are all the circuits in the panel. So the inverter voltage and ground reference may float in relation to earth ground, especially with the RV insulated from earth by tires. So how should I handle the ground and neutral in this scenario?

 

[PopDBop]

A follow up question...

In this temporary emergency connection, should the Growatt's ground be connected to the panel's earth ground bar (since the panel and it's circuits are is earth grounded) and the neutral to the panel's neutral bar?

I don't thing that earth and ground should be bonded together, or there may be problems with earth grounded reference voltage.

 

[timselectric]

In this temporary emergency connection, should the Growatt's ground be connected to the panel's earth ground bar (since the panel and it's circuits are is earth grounded) and the neutral to the panel's neutral bar?

Yes

I don't thing that earth and ground should be bonded together, or there may be problems with earth grounded reference voltage.

Only in the house panel, as it already is.
(When connected to house)