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Sunny Island and Sunny Boy 7.7 heat generation

SilverbackMP

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How much heat would you say these produce in non quantative terms? I have four of each shoved in a 12x12 shed which will also house several smaller servers and switches.

Trying to decide between a 6000 and a 9000 BTU inverter mini split. Couple inches of spray foam in walls, ceiling and floor and Rockwool filling most of the remainder.

I’m thinking the 9000 (Alpine Blueridge relabel of the Gree Sapphire 38 SEER and close to a 4 COP). I think it will ramp down far enough and also give me headroom.
 
I’m guessing the price between a 6k and a 9k BTU mini split is pretty small. When in doubt, I would upsize. That way you get a little extra cooling buffer on the abnormally hot days and a little extra heating on the abnormally cold days.

With the inverter A/Cs you’d be surprised how far they are able to ramp down
 
I’m guessing the price between a 6k and a 9k BTU mini split is pretty small. When in doubt, I would upsize. That way you get a little extra cooling buffer on the abnormally hot days and a little extra heating on the abnormally cold days.
That’s what I’m thinking too. And the 9,000 BTU is “Gen 5” with 38 SEER vs the 6000 BTU which is “Gen 4” 26.5 SEER (and requires an add on wifi unit).
 
You also don’t have to keep the shed at human comfort levels. The Sunny Islands are rated for their full capacity at 77 degrees. Way easier to keep a building at 77 instead of 70.
 
Sunny Boy is 98% efficient. Sunny Island is 95% efficient (maybe 98% for battery charging?).
During the day, 4% of power harvested and used to charge battery will be turned into heat, and of what feeds load 2% will be turned into heat.
At night, 5% will be turned into heat.

How efficient are those servers and switches? I'm going to go out on a limb and say 0%
Day and night, 100% of the power they consume will be turned into heat.

Does the system power anything outside the shed?

Figure 105% of power used by server and switches will be heat inside shed. Size A/C to deal with that.
If powering anything outside the shed, add 5% of that. Add 5% of A/C consumption.

What is outside temperature? If hotter than inside, heat will soak in and have to be removed. Estimate by average insulation value including walls, roof, doors, windows.
Is sun beating down on it? I'm not sure the approach to calculate, but in summer you could measure surface temperature and use that instead of ambient.
 
Sunny Boy is 98% efficient. Sunny Island is 95% efficient (maybe 98% for battery charging?).
During the day, 4% of power harvested and used to charge battery will be turned into heat, and of what feeds load 2% will be turned into heat.
At night, 5% will be turned into heat.

How efficient are those servers and switches? I'm going to go out on a limb and say 0%
Day and night, 100% of the power they consume will be turned into heat.

Does the system power anything outside the shed?

Figure 105% of power used by server and switches will be heat inside shed. Size A/C to deal with that.
If powering anything outside the shed, add 5% of that. Add 5% of A/C consumption.

What is outside temperature? If hotter than inside, heat will soak in and have to be removed. Estimate by average insulation value including walls, roof, doors, windows.
Is sun beating down on it? I'm not sure the approach to calculate, but in summer you could measure surface temperature and use that instead of ambient.
Most of the switches SHOULD be fairly efficient. TP Link Omada targeted towards small-medium businesses. The big one (16 port) is fiber only. There’s another 8 port POE that will have a handful of cameras, local Wi-Fi etc.

Servers will be as low power as I can make them. One synology dedicated to cameras, one or two storage units on late Gen Intel I3 or I5 running with drive spin down enabled, and maybe later a video rendering server on a high tier desktop processor or a smaller thread ripper and lower power graphics card and all SSD but will be wake on LAN (deep sleep mode) for video ingest (YouTube video creation) and short term storage.

The system will power a 36x48 foot shop with wood working stuff and temp living quarters, my mom’s house, and possibly another (future) business building and my house (until we start running close to max current and amps, then I’ll build another system).

Shed is partial shaded (dappled) but has a 8x10 insulated garage door (and I’m going to build a removable wall in front of that for more insulation.
 
It’s this shed/system:

 
Most of the switches SHOULD be fairly efficient. TP Link Omada targeted towards small-medium businesses. The big one (16 port) is fiber only. There’s another 8 port POE that will have a handful of cameras, local Wi-Fi etc.

No such thing as "efficient" in the same sense as power conversion equipment. My point was that 100% of the electrical power delivered to the equipment is turned into heat.

Servers will be as low power as I can make them. One synology dedicated to cameras, one or two storage units on late Gen Intel I3 or I5 running with drive spin down enabled, and maybe later a video rendering server on a high tier desktop processor or a smaller thread ripper and lower power graphics card and all SSD but will be wake on LAN (deep sleep mode) for video ingest (YouTube video creation) and short term storage.

How many watts consumed in the shed?


The system will power a 36x48 foot shop with wood working stuff and temp living quarters, my mom’s house, and possibly another (future) business building and my house (until we start running close to max current and amps, then I’ll build another system).

What is the highest continuous wattage consumed outside the shed?

Shed is partial shaded (dappled) but has a 8x10 insulated garage door (and I’m going to build a removable wall in front of that for more insulation.

Yes, poorly insulated portions might be improved with an airtight insulated panel behind. Maybe foil coated board to reflect heat back, especially if door exposed to sun. (That would be inside door). Or, walls outside I think is what you describe.

Electronics will last longer kept cool and dry. Batteries, too. Lithium are pretty efficient so shouldn't add much heat.

It’s this shed/system:


I think the trees will shade pretty well, especially with leaves.

Does it get very hot inside?
How about just forced ventilation, no A/C? The SMA equipment can probably handle that just fine.
Batteries may benefit from cooling. How about the computer stuff? If you do use A/C, maybe blow cool air of batteries with thermostat to keep them at optimum temperature and rest of equipment gets the benefit too, while dumping their heat to the room.

Think about heat sources in a closed space is the air recirculates and they keep getting warmer and warmer. Sealed room needs to be large enough that surface area conducts the heat to the outside.
Could draw outside air into inlet. Or exhaust outlet to outside. Or pass exhaust air through a heat exchanger, dumping its heat outside before recirculating inside (to avoid drawing in moisture.)

If exhaust air is hot, imagine putting that through a radiator outside, then feeding to an A/C and back into room.
 
Rough math: Assuming you've got each of the SunnyBoy's maxed, 4 x 7.7 x ~97% efficient = ~900 watts of heat for a few hours during the middle of the day plus whatever else is in there and what the external environment is trying to add.

.9kW x 3413 BTUs/kw = ~3100 BTU's just for what the SunnyBoys are dumping in there.

I don't think I go less than a 12,000 BTU minisplit since they are very good at varying thier speed to match the load.
 
Depending on your cells, the REC will be the hottest component as it’s balancing.

I have my batteries in a sealed enclosure other than an exhaust fan, and an air inlet from an air conditioned room in my house.

I have an extra fan directed at the REC.

I think you will benefit from placing fans to direct air across the top vents of the SMA gear also.

(I use small mains voltage fans switched on by an ink bird temp switch at 30°C)

The cool air comes in at a low corner on one side and the exhaust fan is diagonally opposite.

Using closed loop refrigerated cooling I’d still use extra fans to even out the air temp, or at least direct the flow at the REC and top of the SMA units.
 
Rough math: Assuming you've got each of the SunnyBoy's maxed, 4 x 7.7 x ~97% efficient = ~900 watts of heat for a few hours during the middle of the day plus whatever else is in there and what the external environment is trying to add.

.9kW x 3413 BTUs/kw = ~3100 BTU's just for what the SunnyBoys are dumping in there.

I don't think I go less than a 12,000 BTU minisplit since they are very good at varying thier speed to match the load.
Well shit, I should have put the Sunny Boys on the outside of the shed. Actually will be using just three for the time being. The fourth is a backup and for future expansion. There is space for six total. If I expand, I just might put three on the outside and keep the three on the inside....which would free up space for more batteries should I need more.

I appreciate the rough load calcs.

Now I'm encountering inaction paralysis. Debating between the higher SEER rated 9k and 12k Gree based units (Blueridge Alpine), which are more efficient on paper, or the (likely better constructed) Mitsubishi Hyper Heats which are available but out of stock in their kumo cloud wifi boards with a six - eight week wait time (and much more expensive with potentially less support for DIY). I could build a home assistant control board, but I got more than enough projects.

I want to go with one brand for all of my installs in order to figure out their quirks and to integrate automation without beating my head against gethub a half a dozen times.

I had actually called three different Mitsubishi top rated installers (twice each), and could never get a call back which started me going down DIY. They pissed me off. Also tried a few others and they wanted to charge me $5k for a rebaged Midea (Carrier) for a super easy install. Nope, I aint supporting their meth/opioid habits.

Already bought most of the tools so it's too late now.

I'm on a rant. These HVAC guys on various forums...act like they are building the damned space shuttle. It aint rocket science. These things hang on every shack in every third world country. Gate keeping SOBs and the "top tier" manufacturers are as bad...at least in western markets.
 
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Duct Sunny Boy exhaust outside? (draws in outside air, might be humid).
Duct outside, through heat exchanger, back in and straight to A/C?

Any duct would impede convection, unless it formed a chimney. So a trade-off. Outside on shady side might be best. Sunny Boy doesn't derate much. Sunny Island does (per specs).
 
Duct Sunny Boy exhaust outside? (draws in outside air, might be humid).
Duct outside, through heat exchanger, back in and straight to A/C?

Any duct would impede convection, unless it formed a chimney. So a trade-off. Outside on shady side might be best. Sunny Boy doesn't derate much. Sunny Island does (per specs).
Pretty humid in the summer (Missouri) and can get over 100 degree F. And a duct set up would require major surgery. And then in the winter it CAN (but doesn't always) stay in the single digits or below for weeks at a time in the winter. Which led me down the the high SEER/EER/COP mini split route. Probably won't go with the hyper heat style units on some other buildings where I don't really need the heating ability.
 
I ended up ordering a Mitsubishi 12k BTU Hyperheat. Also ordering this stuff for the line sets: https://iscsales.com/item/isotech-uv-refrigerant-single-insulated-line-sets-corrosion-resistant/

Looks like the best stuff. Apparently some of the commodity crap is developing pin hole leaks in the thin assed copper after a year or three (mostly the white insulated covered line sets).

Probably going to get 164' of the 1/4 and 3/8th as I've got multiples of these to install over the next year and this looks like the cheapest price with the least waste.

I expect this install will be better than 90% of the "pros" as I am a picky SOB. Went with Mitsubishi for multiple reasons, but the thing that closed the deal is that they've got all sorts of manuals and very specific troubleshooting guides for all of their stuff online.
 
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