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Suppose I want a 12v 100 AH battery w/o bms. Have any recommendations

Buy raw cells and DIY your own pack. Top balance them, don't drain them too low, and don't charge about 13.8V and you might be fine for a long time. I have a 50AH 12V pouch cell pack from JAG35 that I've been running BMS-less for almost 2 years now. I do have a balancing charger that ensures all the cells are charged to the same level. The most I've run the battery down is ~ 65%.
 
I can be done despite many doomsayers.
Our 4 cell 300Ah Sinopoly LiFePO4 motorhome/engine starting battery has survived 10 years of fulltime travel without any inbuilt BMS circuitry.

My "BMS":
No charging source exceeds 14.1V at the battery terminals at which point the battery pack is always 100% SOC without any absorption time regardless of my usual charging currents according to both the series installed Victron and Junctek shunt based battery monitors.
75A alternator, 50A solar and rarely used 30A mains powered battery charger.
20% SOC loud alarm and Victron BatteryProtect 12.5V disconnect. Never triggered in day to day use.

Unlike apparently hundreds of fellow forum users cell balancing has never proved necessary for the last 10 years. Sure I occasionally check but again despite being informed multiple times that cell capacities will drift excessively they have not, well at least for my battery or the 280Ah EVE battery that I paralleled about 18 months ago.
I have observed up to a c40mV deviation on the odd occasion but as a test a few years ago forcing all cells to within 1mv required a few seconds at 30A. Certainly no useful energy added to any cell.
I'm almost convinced that sometimes perfect cell balance is perhaps just a psychological satisfaction thing?


Forcing the battery to 14.5V about a year ago. Near enough for me.
I must check again soon.

Click to enlarge.
 

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I can be done despite many doomsayers.
Our 4 cell 300Ah Sinopoly LiFePO4 motorhome/engine starting battery has survived 10 years of fulltime travel without any inbuilt BMS circuitry.

My "BMS":
No charging source exceeds 14.1V at the battery terminals at which point the battery pack is always 100% SOC without any absorption time regardless of my usual charging currents according to both the series installed Victron and Junctek shunt based battery monitors.
75A alternator, 50A solar and rarely used 30A mains powered battery charger.
20% SOC loud alarm and Victron BatteryProtect 12.5V disconnect. Never triggered in day to day use.

Unlike apparently hundreds of fellow forum users cell balancing has never proved necessary for the last 10 years. Sure I occasionally check but again despite being informed multiple times that cell capacities will drift excessively they have not, well at least for my battery or the 280Ah EVE battery that I paralleled about 18 months ago.
I have observed up to a c40mV deviation on the odd occasion but as a test a few years ago forcing all cells to within 1mv required a few seconds at 30A. Certainly no useful energy added to any cell.
I'm almost convinced that sometimes perfect cell balance is perhaps just a psychological satisfaction thing?


Forcing the battery to 14.5V about a year ago. Near enough for me.
I must check again soon.

Click to enlarge.


The math shows with no pattern of usage - i.e. totally random times and amounts of charge and discharge the batteries will stay balanced.

When you add in time of day, so solar charging, the pattern is less random and they will drift some.

Anyone using a normal pattern of night and day with similar usage of coffee in the AM, lights all day or not, tv at night, etc, but repetative off and on with repetative similar charge times/rates at the same times of day the cells will drift quite a bit and pretty quickly.

Summary is you can manage without a BMS, but why not use one or an active cell balancer and get away from having to check them periodically or top balance once and a while?

Let the automtion do the work.
 
If I built a battery with no BMS, I'd build it with cells that have a high discharge / charge rate. For my Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, I have topbrand that can charge discharge at 2C or 3C. The higher C discharge the better.

There could be a good reason to not have a BMS, like on a wheel chair crossing the street and the power dying as acceleration is needed to get out of the way of a car and not trip the BMS that stops the chair dead in its tracks. The risk your taking is the battery pack catches on fire as soon as the wheel chair is out of the way.

Personally, think building a lithium battery without a BMS is a terrible, terrible idea that gets worst as the battery gets older. If you know what you're doing its probably a terrible idea. Might not be so terrible if you can accept the loss of the equipment and all the other damages, that point only a bad idea.
 
How does this differ from a BMS
Balancing chargers I have seen charge each cell individually to the correct voltage (3.50?)
They would provide no other protection.

The balancing chargers I have seen are for small battery hobbyist to fly a model plane or run a model car etc.
 
Balancing chargers I have seen charge each cell individually to the correct voltage (3.50?)
They would provide no other protection.

The balancing chargers I have seen are for small battery hobbyist to fly a model plane or run a model car etc.

Yep. the balance chargers monitor all cells via an attached harness, much like a BMS harness. Most have some limited balancing capability on the order of 0.5A.

They charge until a single cell hits peak voltage.
Taper current to hold that cell at peak voltage and engage balancing.

I blabbered about it as an option for top balancing:

 
Some fancier balance chargers will stop charging momentarily to measure the cell voltages. This takes wire resistance out of the equation.
 
Some fancier balance chargers will stop charging momentarily to measure the cell voltages. This takes wire resistance out of the equation.

Never seen that.

The sense leads only pass balancing current, so the voltage measurement isn't influenced by primary charge current. Stopping balance current to periodically check voltage would be sensible.
 
It's been well established that YOU are far more obsessive than the average human BMS. :)
No obsession here. Some others seem obsessed in their cell voltages being identical.
Our Victron system settings have remained unaltered for the last five or so years.
It all ticks over on its own without adjustment or intervention.
Sure I keep an eye on things and hopefully not too many others have blind faith in their often the cheapest BMS available operating perfectly for the next 15 years without checking occasionally.
I have no such faith for our perhaps unique and frequent 700A plus peak starter motor current draw requirements.
14.1V maximum, 10 minutes absorption and 13.45V while the sun still shines "float" is very easy and works for our now 10 year old fulltime RV use battery.
The "human BMS" is all but idle these days. ;)
 
No obsession here. Some others seem obsessed in their cell voltages being identical.
Our Victron system settings have remained unaltered for the last five or so years.
It all ticks over on its own without adjustment or intervention.
Sure I keep an eye on things and hopefully not too many others have blind faith in their often the cheapest BMS available operating perfectly for the next 15 years without checking occasionally.
I have no such faith for our perhaps unique and frequent 700A plus peak starter motor current draw requirements.
14.1V maximum, 10 minutes absorption and 13.45V while the sun still shines "float" is very easy and works for our now 10 year old fulltime RV use battery.
The "human BMS" is all but idle these days. ;)

Uh huh.

 
Uh huh.

Thank you for confirming my previous post unless you consider careful occasional battery monitoring is some form of obsession.

Perhaps I incorrectly assumed most others would do likewise?
If not I gladly plead guilty to all obsession charges.
 
Thank you for confirming my previous post unless you consider careful occasional battery monitoring is some form of obsession.

Perhaps I incorrectly assumed most others would do likewise?
If not I gladly plead guilty to all obsession charges.

The ratio of no-BMS bloated batteries to healthy batteries on this site is n:1.

You're 1.
 
If I built a battery with no BMS, I'd build it with cells that have a high discharge / charge rate. For my Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, I have topbrand that can charge discharge at 2C or 3C. The higher C discharge the better.

There could be a good reason to not have a BMS, like on a wheel chair crossing the street and the power dying as acceleration is needed to get out of the way of a car and not trip the BMS that stops the chair dead in its tracks. The risk your taking is the battery pack catches on fire as soon as the wheel chair is out of the way.

Personally, think building a lithium battery without a BMS is a terrible, terrible idea that gets worst as the battery gets older. If you know what you're doing its probably a terrible idea. Might not be so terrible if you can accept the loss of the equipment and all the other damages, that point only a bad idea.

I think in this case I would equip the wheelchair with a second small battery and NO contactors (the $15 ones) so if your scenario occured it would switch to the backup battery pack.

And both packs would have a BMS on them
 

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