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The "ultimate" Starlink setup - Take ideas from it and expand as you see fit!

Watts Happening

I call it like I see it.
Joined
May 3, 2022
Messages
811
I'm sure there are plenty of other awesome setups, I didn't have much of a plan going into this other than wanting to tick as many boxes for as many scenarios as possible. This is a VERY flexible setup while saving a fair bit of power which I think will help a lot of people out there trying to run on solar. This setup can run direct from your 48v lithium battery setup, or even from your 12v system. In our case we will usually run the OEM Starlink power adapter because we're so "overpowered" in our trailer/house it makes no difference consumption wise and keeps everything running perfectly in spec. That said, I sincerely think this 'build' can help a lot of people, there wasn't much solid information I could find on the subject, just snippets here and there so I wanted to be thorough and provide as much detail as possible. Parts list at the end (not affiliate links, buy whatever works for you).

I picked up a Starlink Gen3 Standard at Best Buy, already had a GL.iNet GL-MT3000 Wi-Fi 6 travel router that we use for all of our travels (which can take an internet input such as Starlink, it can also rebroadcast an existing Wi-Fi network such as a hotel or RV network, and can also tether to your phone and use it's internet so it's very flexible and has excellent built in support for VPN's and things like that). I also happened to have a Trendnet 6 port industrial/hardened PoE Switch that supports a 48vDC input (very expensive but I had it sitting around, I'm sure there are other much more affordable options and most people won't even need a switch of any kind, let alone a PoE switch).

Everything was installed inside a small $12 "pelican" case from Harbor Freight as you'll see below. Bottom right you see an XT60 port bringing power in from the outside, this then hits an XT60 3-way splitter and provides power directly to the Yaosheng PoE inserter, the XWST 48v-5v USB-C converter and somewhat hard to see the PoE Switch under the prior items. You do NOT need to modify your Starlink cable at all, simply plug and play. The USB-C runs up and plugs into the router which is velcro'ed into the lid. The PoE side of the inserter heads to a weatherproof Cat6 pigtail/port that is drilled through at the bottom left (you plug your dish into this). The LAN side of the PoE inserter feeds into the WAN port of the router (taking internet from Starlink and providing it to the router). The LAN side of the router then heads out to the PoE switch which is COMPLETELY optional and probably 99% of you don't need any of that.

Typically I'll either power the system with the OEM Starlink power supply (via an adapter linked below which is plug and play), or direct from a 48v e-bike battery I had sitting around. But, if I need to use a 12v source I can quickly reconfigure the XT60 plugs and at the top left you can see a 12v-56vDC converter. The inputs and outputs of it have XT60 ends and in about 10 seconds can be reconfigured to take in 12v from the XT60 port and then feed 56v to the system instead of taking in the 54-57v the other options provide.

Yes, the new Starlink Gen3 Standard runs at 57 volts DC, most 48v systems run close enough to that number that it's meaningless, 54-57v works fine, I would assume but have not tested that 60v would likely be fine as well.

Now, why would I want a PoE Switch? Well, it provides a lot more flexibility. We can use an external wireless access point, or camera among many other things. Via the internal Wireguard VPN settings we can send that camera feed back to our home Ubiquiti network and it records just like it was local. We can also watch shows from our Tablo TV as though we're at home. Endless options really, but again not required. This is a really small box which is great for portability, but not so helpful for clean wiring, please forgive the mess, the XT60 adapters were quite long. Here's a picture of the gun case:

rich text editor image

Now, I looked at the Starlink travel cases and just couldn't make sense of the cost. I already use stackable storage totes in our RV (converted cargo trailer I use for work, 1,600w of solar, 48v battery system etc, which can be another 120v/48v input as a 48v lithium battery runs very close to the 57v the Gen3 Starlink runs on so we can go straight to battery or 120v, doesn't matter).

I read that a 15 gallon storage tote from Lowes fit well so I snagged one. I removed the original Starlink packaging from the box and was amazed, it fit like a glove, and had the PERFECT amount of room below it to put the gun case, e-bike battery, extra Wi-Fi access point and even a camera with room to spare. Will we use the e-bike battery often, no, but it was at this moment I had an epiphany - it's an EXCELLENT ballast. I then realized I had extra waterproof passthrough ports and then it became magic. Everything fits in this case and within 30 seconds you have a completely turn key setup, the dish fits on the lid, quick plug of the cable into the port and boom, you're off to the races on battery power. A quick check of the current draw and I'm confident we could run on battery power for about 12 hours. Just set this thing down in a parking lot or in the desert and you're up and running.

I'll add another XT60 port to the 15 gallon case to I can send power in from the OEM charger and/or a 12v source but I think it turned out incredibly.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have, happy to help! More pictures below:

XT60 input port
rich text editor image


OEM Starlink power supply with adapter to XT60
rich text editor image


48v e-bike lithium battery with XT60 connector for battery only operation
rich text editor image


Resting battery voltage, works perfectly with zero complaints from Starlink
rich text editor image


Entire system sitting on the roof of my car for testing, pulling 50 watts during normal operation, I've seen it spike to 75w or so
rich text editor image


e-Bike battery specs, it's just something I had laying around, I'm sure they are readily available.
rich text editor image


Main parts sitting in side the 15 gallon tote
rich text editor image


Cat6 ports in tote (top one for dish, bottom one to provide network connectivity/PoE to a device
rich text editor image


Ports passing through to the gun case inside
rich text editor image


Using foam from the gun case to make a level surface for the dish/packaging
rich text editor image


Starlink dish with original packaging (power adapter and cords below dish as normal). Remaining foam from gun case on top to pad from the lid, it's amazing because the foam had differing thicknesses which was perfect to account for the shape of the back of the dish
rich text editor image


Lid installed, perfect very light pressure fit
rich text editor image


Dish on top, fits like a glove.
rich text editor image


Side view, single Cat6 cable running to the port on the side. This is a full operational setup, completely wireless for ~12 hours or so.
rich text editor image

Parts list (not affiliate links, buy wherever you want):

Router (sold out on Amazon right now, I'm sure it'll be back in stock soon): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPSGJN7T

PoE Switch: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Hardened-Industrial-DIN-Rail-TI-PG541i/dp/B01D6ABXLU

Harbor Freight Gun case: https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-weatherproof-protective-case-small-black-64550.html

15 Gallon Storage tote: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-15-Gallon-PS-Commander-Storage-Tote/5013943289

48v-5v USB-C converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GKBGMPB

12v-56v converter (for using a 12v input source such as a car): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JGF6H7M

XT60 pigtails to standardize the wiring/make it easy to swap around): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4H5CCR3

XT60 Bulkhead/port for cable entry to gun case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX81BHKJ

XT60 splitter for connecting everything that needs power: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJ4R9ZF5

200w PoE injector (needs ~57vDC as an input): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSBYJLPV

Cat6 waterproof bulkhead/ports for Dish/PoE output: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDMW2XLT

Adapter to plug OEM/Original Starlink power adapter into the system for 120v use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TZJMLHD
 
I wonder what's the PoE voltage range starlink radio will accept? Could be possible to run direct from LFP battery without dc-dc for better efficiency.
 
I wonder what's the PoE voltage range starlink radio will accept? Could be possible to run direct from LFP battery without dc-dc for better efficiency.
As I mentioned, that's exactly what our PoE inserter is doing when connected direct to the batteries (or in the case of the photos, the e-bike battery). There is no conversion at all there, it's direct from battery to dish.

I've heard they struggle at a legitimate 48v (which is the more common PoE voltage). But I've seen absolutely zero issue running at 54v or more, fires right up and runs great.
 
I wonder what's the PoE voltage range starlink radio will accept? Could be possible to run direct from LFP battery without dc-dc for better efficiency.
This is what I’m doing. I replaced the Starlink router with a POE injector connected to my battery. My battery absorbs at 55.2V but I believe the limit for the dish is 57V. However my cable run is so long (190ft or so) that the dish won’t be seeing that voltage.
 
I'm sure there are plenty of other awesome setups, I didn't have much of a plan going into this other than wanting to tick as many boxes for as many scenarios as possible. This is a VERY flexible setup while saving a fair bit of power which I think will help a lot of people out there trying to run on solar. This setup can run direct from your 48v lithium battery setup, or even from your 12v system. In our case we will usually run the OEM Starlink power adapter because we're so "overpowered" in our trailer/house it makes no difference consumption wise and keeps everything running perfectly in spec. That said, I sincerely think this 'build' can help a lot of people, there wasn't much solid information I could find on the subject, just snippets here and there so I wanted to be thorough and provide as much detail as possible. Parts list at the end (not affiliate links, buy whatever works for you).

I picked up a Starlink Gen3 Standard at Best Buy, already had a GL.iNet GL-MT3000 Wi-Fi 6 travel router that we use for all of our travels (which can take an internet input such as Starlink, it can also rebroadcast an existing Wi-Fi network such as a hotel or RV network, and can also tether to your phone and use it's internet so it's very flexible and has excellent built in support for VPN's and things like that). I also happened to have a Trendnet 6 port industrial/hardened PoE Switch that supports a 48vDC input (very expensive but I had it sitting around, I'm sure there are other much more affordable options and most people won't even need a switch of any kind, let alone a PoE switch).

Everything was installed inside a small $12 "pelican" case from Harbor Freight as you'll see below. Bottom right you see an XT60 port bringing power in from the outside, this then hits an XT60 3-way splitter and provides power directly to the Yaosheng PoE inserter, the XWST 48v-5v USB-C converter and somewhat hard to see the PoE Switch under the prior items. You do NOT need to modify your Starlink cable at all, simply plug and play. The USB-C runs up and plugs into the router which is velcro'ed into the lid. The PoE side of the inserter heads to a weatherproof Cat6 pigtail/port that is drilled through at the bottom left (you plug your dish into this). The LAN side of the PoE inserter feeds into the WAN port of the router (taking internet from Starlink and providing it to the router). The LAN side of the router then heads out to the PoE switch which is COMPLETELY optional and probably 99% of you don't need any of that.

Typically I'll either power the system with the OEM Starlink power supply (via an adapter linked below which is plug and play), or direct from a 48v e-bike battery I had sitting around. But, if I need to use a 12v source I can quickly reconfigure the XT60 plugs and at the top left you can see a 12v-56vDC converter. The inputs and outputs of it have XT60 ends and in about 10 seconds can be reconfigured to take in 12v from the XT60 port and then feed 56v to the system instead of taking in the 54-57v the other options provide.

Yes, the new Starlink Gen3 Standard runs at 57 volts DC, most 48v systems run close enough to that number that it's meaningless, 54-57v works fine, I would assume but have not tested that 60v would likely be fine as well.

Now, why would I want a PoE Switch? Well, it provides a lot more flexibility. We can use an external wireless access point, or camera among many other things. Via the internal Wireguard VPN settings we can send that camera feed back to our home Ubiquiti network and it records just like it was local. We can also watch shows from our Tablo TV as though we're at home. Endless options really, but again not required. This is a really small box which is great for portability, but not so helpful for clean wiring, please forgive the mess, the XT60 adapters were quite long. Here's a picture of the gun case:

rich text editor image

Now, I looked at the Starlink travel cases and just couldn't make sense of the cost. I already use stackable storage totes in our RV (converted cargo trailer I use for work, 1,600w of solar, 48v battery system etc, which can be another 120v/48v input as a 48v lithium battery runs very close to the 57v the Gen3 Starlink runs on so we can go straight to battery or 120v, doesn't matter).

I read that a 15 gallon storage tote from Lowes fit well so I snagged one. I removed the original Starlink packaging from the box and was amazed, it fit like a glove, and had the PERFECT amount of room below it to put the gun case, e-bike battery, extra Wi-Fi access point and even a camera with room to spare. Will we use the e-bike battery often, no, but it was at this moment I had an epiphany - it's an EXCELLENT ballast. I then realized I had extra waterproof passthrough ports and then it became magic. Everything fits in this case and within 30 seconds you have a completely turn key setup, the dish fits on the lid, quick plug of the cable into the port and boom, you're off to the races on battery power. A quick check of the current draw and I'm confident we could run on battery power for about 12 hours. Just set this thing down in a parking lot or in the desert and you're up and running.

I'll add another XT60 port to the 15 gallon case to I can send power in from the OEM charger and/or a 12v source but I think it turned out incredibly.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have, happy to help! More pictures below:

XT60 input port
rich text editor image


OEM Starlink power supply with adapter to XT60
rich text editor image


48v e-bike lithium battery with XT60 connector for battery only operation
rich text editor image


Resting battery voltage, works perfectly with zero complaints from Starlink
rich text editor image


Entire system sitting on the roof of my car for testing, pulling 50 watts during normal operation, I've seen it spike to 75w or so
rich text editor image


e-Bike battery specs, it's just something I had laying around, I'm sure they are readily available.
rich text editor image


Main parts sitting in side the 15 gallon tote
rich text editor image


Cat6 ports in tote (top one for dish, bottom one to provide network connectivity/PoE to a device
rich text editor image


Ports passing through to the gun case inside
rich text editor image


Using foam from the gun case to make a level surface for the dish/packaging
rich text editor image


Starlink dish with original packaging (power adapter and cords below dish as normal). Remaining foam from gun case on top to pad from the lid, it's amazing because the foam had differing thicknesses which was perfect to account for the shape of the back of the dish
rich text editor image


Lid installed, perfect very light pressure fit
rich text editor image


Dish on top, fits like a glove.
rich text editor image


Side view, single Cat6 cable running to the port on the side. This is a full operational setup, completely wireless for ~12 hours or so.
rich text editor image

Parts list (not affiliate links, buy wherever you want):

Router (sold out on Amazon right now, I'm sure it'll be back in stock soon): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPSGJN7T

PoE Switch: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Hardened-Industrial-DIN-Rail-TI-PG541i/dp/B01D6ABXLU

Harbor Freight Gun case: https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-weatherproof-protective-case-small-black-64550.html

15 Gallon Storage tote: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-15-Gallon-PS-Commander-Storage-Tote/5013943289

48v-5v USB-C converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GKBGMPB

12v-56v converter (for using a 12v input source such as a car): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JGF6H7M

XT60 pigtails to standardize the wiring/make it easy to swap around): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4H5CCR3

XT60 Bulkhead/port for cable entry to gun case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX81BHKJ

XT60 splitter for connecting everything that needs power: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJ4R9ZF5

200w PoE injector (needs ~57vDC as an input): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSBYJLPV

Cat6 waterproof bulkhead/ports for Dish/PoE output: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDMW2XLT

Adapter to plug OEM/Original Starlink power adapter into the system for 120v use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TZJMLHD
A lot of info and I can follow some of it. My question, if you have time, is how easy is it to convert starlink gen 3 (just go today) to run on 48 volt lithiuk battery bank in my van? Thanks for your time.
 
I'm sure there are plenty of other awesome setups, I didn't have much of a plan going into this other than wanting to tick as many boxes for as many scenarios as possible. This is a VERY flexible setup while saving a fair bit of power which I think will help a lot of people out there trying to run on solar. This setup can run direct from your 48v lithium battery setup, or even from your 12v system. In our case we will usually run the OEM Starlink power adapter because we're so "overpowered" in our trailer/house it makes no difference consumption wise and keeps everything running perfectly in spec. That said, I sincerely think this 'build' can help a lot of people, there wasn't much solid information I could find on the subject, just snippets here and there so I wanted to be thorough and provide as much detail as possible. Parts list at the end (not affiliate links, buy whatever works for you).

I picked up a Starlink Gen3 Standard at Best Buy, already had a GL.iNet GL-MT3000 Wi-Fi 6 travel router that we use for all of our travels (which can take an internet input such as Starlink, it can also rebroadcast an existing Wi-Fi network such as a hotel or RV network, and can also tether to your phone and use it's internet so it's very flexible and has excellent built in support for VPN's and things like that). I also happened to have a Trendnet 6 port industrial/hardened PoE Switch that supports a 48vDC input (very expensive but I had it sitting around, I'm sure there are other much more affordable options and most people won't even need a switch of any kind, let alone a PoE switch).

Everything was installed inside a small $12 "pelican" case from Harbor Freight as you'll see below. Bottom right you see an XT60 port bringing power in from the outside, this then hits an XT60 3-way splitter and provides power directly to the Yaosheng PoE inserter, the XWST 48v-5v USB-C converter and somewhat hard to see the PoE Switch under the prior items. You do NOT need to modify your Starlink cable at all, simply plug and play. The USB-C runs up and plugs into the router which is velcro'ed into the lid. The PoE side of the inserter heads to a weatherproof Cat6 pigtail/port that is drilled through at the bottom left (you plug your dish into this). The LAN side of the PoE inserter feeds into the WAN port of the router (taking internet from Starlink and providing it to the router). The LAN side of the router then heads out to the PoE switch which is COMPLETELY optional and probably 99% of you don't need any of that.

Typically I'll either power the system with the OEM Starlink power supply (via an adapter linked below which is plug and play), or direct from a 48v e-bike battery I had sitting around. But, if I need to use a 12v source I can quickly reconfigure the XT60 plugs and at the top left you can see a 12v-56vDC converter. The inputs and outputs of it have XT60 ends and in about 10 seconds can be reconfigured to take in 12v from the XT60 port and then feed 56v to the system instead of taking in the 54-57v the other options provide.

Yes, the new Starlink Gen3 Standard runs at 57 volts DC, most 48v systems run close enough to that number that it's meaningless, 54-57v works fine, I would assume but have not tested that 60v would likely be fine as well.

Now, why would I want a PoE Switch? Well, it provides a lot more flexibility. We can use an external wireless access point, or camera among many other things. Via the internal Wireguard VPN settings we can send that camera feed back to our home Ubiquiti network and it records just like it was local. We can also watch shows from our Tablo TV as though we're at home. Endless options really, but again not required. This is a really small box which is great for portability, but not so helpful for clean wiring, please forgive the mess, the XT60 adapters were quite long. Here's a picture of the gun case:

rich text editor image

Now, I looked at the Starlink travel cases and just couldn't make sense of the cost. I already use stackable storage totes in our RV (converted cargo trailer I use for work, 1,600w of solar, 48v battery system etc, which can be another 120v/48v input as a 48v lithium battery runs very close to the 57v the Gen3 Starlink runs on so we can go straight to battery or 120v, doesn't matter).

I read that a 15 gallon storage tote from Lowes fit well so I snagged one. I removed the original Starlink packaging from the box and was amazed, it fit like a glove, and had the PERFECT amount of room below it to put the gun case, e-bike battery, extra Wi-Fi access point and even a camera with room to spare. Will we use the e-bike battery often, no, but it was at this moment I had an epiphany - it's an EXCELLENT ballast. I then realized I had extra waterproof passthrough ports and then it became magic. Everything fits in this case and within 30 seconds you have a completely turn key setup, the dish fits on the lid, quick plug of the cable into the port and boom, you're off to the races on battery power. A quick check of the current draw and I'm confident we could run on battery power for about 12 hours. Just set this thing down in a parking lot or in the desert and you're up and running.

I'll add another XT60 port to the 15 gallon case to I can send power in from the OEM charger and/or a 12v source but I think it turned out incredibly.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have, happy to help! More pictures below:

XT60 input port
rich text editor image


OEM Starlink power supply with adapter to XT60
rich text editor image


48v e-bike lithium battery with XT60 connector for battery only operation
rich text editor image


Resting battery voltage, works perfectly with zero complaints from Starlink
rich text editor image


Entire system sitting on the roof of my car for testing, pulling 50 watts during normal operation, I've seen it spike to 75w or so
rich text editor image


e-Bike battery specs, it's just something I had laying around, I'm sure they are readily available.
rich text editor image


Main parts sitting in side the 15 gallon tote
rich text editor image


Cat6 ports in tote (top one for dish, bottom one to provide network connectivity/PoE to a device
rich text editor image


Ports passing through to the gun case inside
rich text editor image


Using foam from the gun case to make a level surface for the dish/packaging
rich text editor image


Starlink dish with original packaging (power adapter and cords below dish as normal). Remaining foam from gun case on top to pad from the lid, it's amazing because the foam had differing thicknesses which was perfect to account for the shape of the back of the dish
rich text editor image


Lid installed, perfect very light pressure fit
rich text editor image


Dish on top, fits like a glove.
rich text editor image


Side view, single Cat6 cable running to the port on the side. This is a full operational setup, completely wireless for ~12 hours or so.
rich text editor image

Parts list (not affiliate links, buy wherever you want):

Router (sold out on Amazon right now, I'm sure it'll be back in stock soon): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPSGJN7T

PoE Switch: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Hardened-Industrial-DIN-Rail-TI-PG541i/dp/B01D6ABXLU

Harbor Freight Gun case: https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-weatherproof-protective-case-small-black-64550.html

15 Gallon Storage tote: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-15-Gallon-PS-Commander-Storage-Tote/5013943289

48v-5v USB-C converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GKBGMPB

12v-56v converter (for using a 12v input source such as a car): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JGF6H7M

XT60 pigtails to standardize the wiring/make it easy to swap around): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4H5CCR3

XT60 Bulkhead/port for cable entry to gun case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX81BHKJ

XT60 splitter for connecting everything that needs power: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CJ4R9ZF5

200w PoE injector (needs ~57vDC as an input): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSBYJLPV

Cat6 waterproof bulkhead/ports for Dish/PoE output: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDMW2XLT

Adapter to plug OEM/Original Starlink power adapter into the system for 120v use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TZJMLHD
Nice setup. I have a Gen 2.

Not sure if I can just buy a gen 3 router and plug into dishy or comes as complete package.
 
A lot of info and I can follow some of it. My question, if you have time, is how easy is it to convert starlink gen 3 (just go today) to run on 48 volt lithiuk battery bank in my van? Thanks for your time.
More or less you could follow what I did. You just need a PoE injector (linked above) and a router of your choice, which really could be anything. The rest is just "extras" you don't have to have.
 

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