Total Newbie looking for Guidance

[Ampster]

I'm afraid I don't know what you mean. When I tested what?

I meant tested the 20 Amp adapter which you could do at home. That would establish a baseline to know what to expect when you plug it into a Bluetti. Anytime one goes from 240 volts (30 Amp adapter) to 120 volts (20 Amp adapter) assumptons need to be checked. That is what I implied earlier when I suggested the possibiliy that only half the circuits would work.

 

[svetz]

... I can recharge it either via my truck's cigarette lighter...

Most cigarette lighter sockets won't output more than 15 amps, at 12 volts thats only 180 watts. So, 1700 wh / 180w = 9.5 hours of charging.

... That is what I implied earlier when I suggested the possibiliy that only half the circuits would work....

From the explanation above, if the 20-30 amp plug converter doesn't bond L1 and L2, the plug is safer as L1 and L2 can't be accidentally shorted...but as Ampster says, then typically half the 120 sockets won't work (for example, if L2 isn't connected than any sockets connected to it wouldn't work). If that is the case you should be able to find one that does have L1 and L2 bonded.

Update: BTW, L1 & L2 bonded is perfectly safe when used with 120V, and it shouldn't be possible to plug it in to a 240V source, so don't worry about a bonded one.

 

[DASH]

But, if 120V is the input power source as you want to do, then all it does is make 120V available to the wires on L1 and L2. This means that no 240V devices will work, but all the 120V sockets would work.

Most RV's with 50 amp connections is because of the dual A/C units. There is not enough current to run all the appliances including the two A/C units with a 30 amp connection. The 50 amp connection provides 2 120 volt power sources. 1 of the 120 volt power source powers one of the A/C units, plus some other 120 volt appliances or outlets, the second 120 volt power source provides electric to the other A/C unit and other 120 volt appliances or outlets. I believe using your reduction lines from 50 to 20 amps, and the Bluetti, You'll end up powering one of the two grids built into the RV and You'll have power to some areas but not all. Hope this helps.

 

[svetz]

...You'll end up powering one of the two grids built into the RV and You'll have power to some areas but not all.

Hey Dash,

Do you mean that just the 240V appliances won't work, or that half the 120V sockets will be dead?

I'm definitely not an RV guy (or hardware guy), but isn't it just a matter of getting a converter plug where L1 & L2 on the 30 amp side are shorted as shown here:

 

[DASH]

Hey Dash,

Do you mean that just the 240V appliances won't work, or that half the 120V sockets will be dead?

I'm definitely not an RV guy (or hardware guy), but isn't it just a matter of getting a converter plug where L1 & L2 on the 30 amp side are shorted as shown here:

Like You, I"m not a RV guy, but I've been told that several appliances and or outlets in the RV will not have power if You use a 30 amp reduction plug plugged into the 50 amp power cord of the RV as the 30 amp plug only powers one side of the 50 amp plug which is 120 volts.

 

[svetz]

The only difference seems to be if L1/2 were bonded or not. A 20 amp male to 30 amp female connector should be safe since the RV should be a male connector and the power source a female connector. Probably need a "real" RV guy/gal to explain it. Could just be some Darwin-award style engineering created a lawsuit that forced bonded commercial versions out of existence.