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When to know you have to equalize AGM batteries?

fcparks

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Hi all, I have 4 x 12V Kilovault PLC 2100 AGM batteries that might need to be equalized. I bought them new, but they were stored for ~9 months due to building my house and a 3 month warranty replacement part for my solar setup.

The installation manual says that they can be stored for 6 months and that they have a maintenance free 2 year shelf life. However, it also says that equalization is only recommended if the batteries were stored more than 3 months. So how do I actually know if I need to run an equalization on the batteries or not?
 
Almost never and only if you do it strictly according to the manufacturer's criteria and process.

AGM are highly resistant to sulfation due to their low self discharge rate and higher concentration of electrolyte.

Equalization is truly only for flooded lead acid where you can replace the lost electrolyte. Equalization of AGM carries a very high risk of shortening battery life due to permanent electrolyte loss. That's why it's critical that
 
Almost never and only if you do it strictly according to the manufacturer's criteria and process.

AGM are highly resistant to sulfation due to their low self discharge rate and higher concentration of electrolyte.

Equalization is truly only for flooded lead acid where you can replace the lost electrolyte. Equalization of AGM carries a very high risk of shortening battery life due to permanent electrolyte loss. That's why it's critical that
I was wondering since the tech said it was dealers choice if I wanted to not and they do have an equalization voltage (56.4V for 48V system) but only give a max time that you can equalize and don’t have a very good listed procedure.
 
56.4V sounds like the absorption voltage as well.

That's pretty typical - you're just holding at the absorption voltage for much longer - some desulfation benefit with low risk of electrolyte loss.

If the batteries are doing their job, all are at or near peak absorption voltage (and never over) when the 48V absorption voltage is reached, I wouldn't equalize without a specific reason, e.g., if adverse conditions prevent the batteries from full charge for a full week or more.
 
Hi all.
I was going to start a new thread, but this thread subject is very close to my issue. Purchased a complete DIY system from the AltE store which was delivered December of 2021 and installed late summer of 2022 in my 100% off grid cabin in Northern Wisconsin and commissioned Labor Day weekend of that year. My system includes a pre wired CC/Switchgear/Inverter board, fairly common Midnite Solar Classic 150, Conext SW4048 with prewired switchgear in between those two components. Battery bank is (4) kilovault plc 2100s. Battery charging via (4) 375 watt mono panels wired series/parallel (2 strings of 2) panel output is 18.72 amps of 80.2 volts resulting in 1500 watts at peak.
Full disclosure, due to inexperience, I did not meter the batteries upon delivery as I probably should have. Being delivered in December I had stored them in heated space (my home) until March of the following year when I delivered them to my cabin and stored them there until time of installation that September. Never metered during that time. I relied on the spec sheet write up with regard to storage life, as mentioned previously in this thread. Once everything was connected and fired up it all worked well through the end of November. I can't really recall what the readings were at various times of the day through that time period as it performed as expected through the end of November (deer season). At the end of that time period, I left the cabin, leaving the inverter and everything "on". I returned a week later (a week with no sun) to find the panels had accumulated 4" of snow. Inside the inverter had gone into "Low Battery Cut-Out". I believe it was set 43v or 42v. At that time I metered the batteries and found 3 of them to be in the low 11s and one just over 9 volts. At that time I shut the system down, loaded up the batteries, took them home, placed in heated space and slow charged individually, monitoring/recording the soc on each several times a week until spring of the following year. After full charges, SOC held steady on all 4 "at rest" batteries at around 12.7v. Reinstalled the batteries and fired the system up in March of '23. The system performed as expected through summer and then things started to downgrade with 3 of the batteries holding a consistent equal charge among them and equal discharge rate, and what I am assuming is the battery that was discharged down to 9 volts will not charge above 11.5v and seems to discharge rapidly thus dragging down the rest of the system. For example, minimal load, intermittent use of a couple LED lights, phone charger, and of course the draw of the inverter itself, fairly quickly brings the cumulative battery level down below 48v. As read previously, that value is not necessarily alarming but this is less than an hour after loss of sun exposure and not applying any other largish loads such as the micro wave. Anything over say 5 amps, even momentary, will draw me down below my current LCBO setting of 47 volts. I realize I can safely set that lower but this performance does not seem as it should be and getting noticeably worse.
So after the long-winded background, my questions would be:
1. Is it reasonable to assume that I have a "bad" battery?
2. Can I run an equalization charge on just this battery? (this was recommended by AltE tech support, as well as a local solar installer)
3. Can I "mix" in a different (brand name) battery that would have similar parameters as the 3 plc 2100s that seem to be working?
4. Should I just go with a completely new battery bank?
5. If new bank, any suggestions/posative reviews? Due to temperature considerations, I cannot do Lithium. We regularly have ambient overnight temps well below zero in winter. This facility is not heated 24/7/365. I would like to stay 180-200 ah. and AGM type.
Note: I did build a "warm box" and left these AGMs in the building all winter with the inverter turned off and the CC left on and monitoring every week. The bank seemed to hold decent charge throughout. This was another suggestion from AltE support in that the charged batteries would generate enough heat within an a small insulated enclosure to keep them safe. I did use the system 3 or 4 times on weekends over the winter months but as mentioned more draw down than what I would consider acceptable and noticeably getting worse.

Thanks in advance for any pointers

NWC
 
1. Is it reasonable to assume that I have a "bad" battery?
Yes
2. Can I run an equalization charge on just this battery? (this was recommended by AltE tech support, as well as a local solar installer)
No i wouldnt, its likely to get hot. I would assume it has a shorted cell causing the lower voltage and self discharge.
3. Can I "mix" in a different (brand name) battery that would have similar parameters as the 3 plc 2100s that seem to be working?
In theory yes, but i dont recommend it. Different brands, capacities and designs all have different charge and discharge characteristics. It will likely end in disappointment.
4. Should I just go with a completely new battery bank?
 Yes
5. If new bank, any suggestions/posative reviews? Due to temperature considerations, I cannot do Lithium. We regularly have ambient overnight temps well below zero in winter. This facility is not heated 24/7/365. I would like to stay 180-200 ah. and AGM type.
I recommend Trojans Solar premium line or Full River AGM. Id also recommended using 6v batteries. 12v lead acids dont handle the cycles like you want. Consider using flooded lead acid vs AGM if you are able to service the water a few times a year. They just seem to be more robust.
Note: I did build a "warm box" and left these AGMs in the building all winter with the inverter turned off and the CC left on and monitoring every week. The bank seemed to hold decent charge throughout. This was another suggestion from AltE support in that the charged batteries would generate enough heat within an a small insulated enclosure to keep them safe.
Keeping them warm improves the charge/discharge speed while in operation. Insulated box is a good idea but not required if kept charged. Turn inverter off when youre not there, but keep the charge controller active to keep batteries full. All good advice.
 
Hi all.
I was going to start a new thread, but this thread subject is very close to my issue. Purchased a complete DIY system from the AltE store which was delivered December of 2021 and installed late summer of 2022 in my 100% off grid cabin in Northern Wisconsin and commissioned Labor Day weekend of that year. My system includes a pre wired CC/Switchgear/Inverter board, fairly common Midnite Solar Classic 150, Conext SW4048 with prewired switchgear in between those two components. Battery bank is (4) kilovault plc 2100s. Battery charging via (4) 375 watt mono panels wired series/parallel (2 strings of 2) panel output is 18.72 amps of 80.2 volts resulting in 1500 watts at peak.

100A max charge current recommended for those batteries, so you're well under that.

Full disclosure, due to inexperience, I did not meter the batteries upon delivery as I probably should have. Being delivered in December I had stored them in heated space (my home) until March

Better to store lead acid in cold temps provided there is no risk of freezing. Colder temperature further slows the loss of charge.

of the following year when I delivered them to my cabin and stored them there until time of installation that September. Never metered during that time.

Yeah. Not best practices. ;)

All four batteries should have been charged and held at 14.1V until current dropped to about 2A.

I relied on the spec sheet write up with regard to storage life, as mentioned previously in this thread. Once everything was connected and fired up it all worked well through the end of November. I can't really recall what the readings were at various times of the day through that time period as it performed as expected through the end of November (deer season). At the end of that time period, I left the cabin, leaving the inverter and everything "on". I returned a week later (a week with no sun) to find the panels had accumulated 4" of snow. Inside the inverter had gone into "Low Battery Cut-Out". I believe it was set 43v or 42v.

42V is a very common cut off as this corresponds to 10.5V/12V battery = depleted.

At that time I metered the batteries and found 3 of them to be in the low 11s and one just over 9 volts.

Pretty imbalanced. The 11s had a measurable amount of charge, but the 9V was beyond empty.

At that time I shut the system down, loaded up the batteries, took them home, placed in heated space

25°C is optimal.

and slow charged individually

Very much not a good idea. lead acid needs to be charged at a minimum value to prevent forced sulfation during charge. The absolute lowest charge rate for batteries of this size would be 9A, and that's the minimum charge rate referenced in the manual.

monitoring/recording the soc on each several times a week until spring of the following year. After full charges, SOC held steady on all 4 "at rest" batteries at around 12.7v.

12.7V is a little low for fully charged AGM.

Reinstalled the batteries and fired the system up in March of '23. The system performed as expected through summer and then things started to downgrade with 3 of the batteries holding a consistent equal charge among them and equal discharge rate, and what I am assuming is the battery that was discharged down to 9 volts will not charge above 11.5v and seems to discharge rapidly thus dragging down the rest of the system. For example, minimal load, intermittent use of a couple LED lights, phone charger, and of course the draw of the inverter itself, fairly quickly brings the cumulative battery level down below 48v. As read previously, that value is not necessarily alarming but this is less than an hour after loss of sun exposure and not applying any other largish loads such as the micro wave. Anything over say 5 amps, even momentary, will draw me down below my current LCBO setting of 47 volts. I realize I can safely set that lower but this performance does not seem as it should be and getting noticeably worse.
So after the long-winded background, my questions would be:
1. Is it reasonable to assume that I have a "bad" battery?

Did you at any time, when you were charging to 56.4V confirm that all 4 12V were at 14.1V?

Is your charger temperature compensated?

2. Can I run an equalization charge on just this battery? (this was recommended by AltE tech support, as well as a local solar installer)

Equalization is just an extended absorption charge. Per the manual:

1713891315881.png

You meet two of three of the criteria.

3. Can I "mix" in a different (brand name) battery that would have similar parameters as the 3 plc 2100s that seem to be working?

Yes, but this usually doesn't work as well as using the same brand, particularly with these specialized AGM. It is VERY rare for a 180Ah AGM to be able to tolerate 100A of charge current. MOST AGM want to be charged to much higher than 14.1V, and most AGM have much less than 3000 cycle life with 50% DoD.

4. Should I just go with a completely new battery bank?

Maybe. I would personally put all four in parallel and hold at 14.1V for 24 hours. Then string in series and re-assess regular logging of individual 12V voltage throughout the operating range.

5. If new bank, any suggestions/posative reviews? Due to temperature considerations, I cannot do Lithium. We regularly have ambient overnight temps well below zero in winter. This facility is not heated 24/7/365. I would like to stay 180-200 ah. and AGM type.

These are great batteries. IMHO, you likely set them up for failure in not following best practices in initial storage, installation and poor monitoring. Repeat the same on any other brand, and you will find yourself here again.

Your "preference" for 180-200ah should be driven by ONE criterion - how much energy do you use per day. I assume your probably thinking more about portability and weight management - important but secondary. 180-200Ah of batteries can only deliver about 4.8kWh/day. This means you can't use more than that, and that's not very much.

  • Lead acid batteries can only deliver about 50% of their capacity between charges without reduced cycle life.
  • Lead acid batteries need to be fully charged as often as possible - daily is preferred.
  • They must actually meet the fully charged criteria, i.e., in your case, they are fully charged when the bank is at 56.4V, each is at 14.1V and the current has dropped to 1.8A or lower. Failure to get to this point means the batteries are not fully charged and life will be reduced.
  • They must be charged with temperature compensation if not in a constant 25°C environment. Colder than 25 and batteries need to be charged to HIGHER voltages. Higher than 25 and batteries need to be charged to LOWER voltages. Failure to use temperature compensation will reduce battery life.
 
Did you at any time, when you were charging to 56.4V confirm that all 4 12V were at 14.1V?

Is your charger temperature compensated?
Part 1 - I can't say for certain that this was ever confirmed. This weekend I will place on generator charge which charges to 56.4v and meter all batteries. One thing I do remember is during gen charging sessions last fall, my reading on the SCP was 56.4 volts. When the system sensed full charge and stopped drawing on the generator, the system(SCP) reading fairly quickly fell back to 51.2v. This took place at night. (no sun)
Part 2 - Yes. I can't recall for certain but I may have briefly had t-comp set to the kilovault misprint value. I'm 99% certain I currently have t-comp set to -3mv/c and not the -30mv/c misprint in the integration guide.

Maybe. I would personally put all four in parallel and hold at 14.1V for 24 hours. Then string in series and re-assess regular logging of individual 12V voltage throughout the operating range.
For this would it be best to charge with an actual battery charger and not via Charge Controller with batteries completely disconnected from the system? With my situation explained to a local (Green Bay, WI) solar installer, a "NOCO Genius 10" battery charger was recommended for equalization.

Your "preference" for 180-200ah should be driven by ONE criterion - how much energy do you use per day. I assume your probably thinking more about portability and weight management - important but secondary. 180-200Ah of batteries can only deliver about 4.8kWh/day. This means you can't use more than that, and that's not very much.
I guess I based my system on about 3kwh/day. Running lights/t.v./phone chargers/occasionally a c-pap. Momentary use of a toaster and microwave with these two appliances only run ahead of good charging .ie in the morning of sunny days. Also momentary use of power tools during the day only.
I see most 12 volt lead acid/agm batteries highest ah ratings are in that 200 ah range. To configure for more ah one would have to add another string of batteries and configure 2 parallel strings, correct? If so, do you see any issues with the second string being a different brand name?
I'm not sure my current system could merely take on another battery string. I guess I'm not sure if I have my math correct in my o.p.
Solar panel array is (4) REC 375TP2SM72
Each Panel -375w, Charge Current 9.36 amp-(?), Max Power Voltage 40.1 so wired series parallel my math shows:
Total Charge Current:18.72 amps - (The plc 2100 manual recommends 100 amp charge current. I believe I am misunderstanding this as far as the 9.36 amps that the plc manual is calling "Max Power Current")
Total Max Power Voltage: 80.2 volts
1500 watts.
I believe I would need more charge current for additional batteries which in turn would mean either rewiring my solar array(series), or adding panels, which in turn would mean the need for a higher voltage capacity CC (currently 150 volt). Does that seem correct?
 
Part 1 - I can't say for certain that this was ever confirmed. This weekend I will place on generator charge which charges to 56.4v and meter all batteries. One thing I do remember is during gen charging sessions last fall, my reading on the SCP was 56.4 volts. When the system sensed full charge and stopped drawing on the generator, the system(SCP) reading fairly quickly fell back to 51.2v. This took place at night. (no sun)

4S 12V AGM under load should fall below 52V almost instantly.

Part 2 - Yes. I can't recall for certain but I may have briefly had t-comp set to the kilovault misprint value. I'm 99% certain I currently have t-comp set to -3mv/c and not the -30mv/c misprint in the integration guide.

You would have noted substantially odd voltages - like well over 60V, especially in the cold.

For this would it be best to charge with an actual battery charger and not via Charge Controller with batteries completely disconnected from the system?

If you can configure your MPPT to operate at 12V and specify a 14.1V absorption and 14.1V float, this would be great. Put the four batteries in parallel connecting the charger to (+) of battery 1 and (-) of battery 4.

With my situation explained to a local (Green Bay, WI) solar installer, a "NOCO Genius 10" battery charger was recommended for equalization.

I hate NOCO with a passion. They are overpriced and portray themselves as the shit. They are basically shit.

You need the ability to hold all 4 batteries at 14.1V for 24 hours. Can you tell me if the NOCO will do it? I highly doubt it.

I would prefer a 30V/10A power supply if I was going to buy a separate piece of hardware to do it. That will allow me to set the exact voltage and read the actual current.

I guess I based my system on about 3kwh/day. Running lights/t.v./phone chargers/occasionally a c-pap. Momentary use of a toaster and microwave with these two appliances only run ahead of good charging .ie in the morning of sunny days. Also momentary use of power tools during the day only.

Sounds like you're right-sized then.

I see most 12 volt lead acid/agm batteries highest ah ratings are in that 200 ah range. To configure for more ah one would have to add another string of batteries and configure 2 parallel strings, correct? If so, do you see any issues with the second string being a different brand name?

No.

I'm not sure my current system could merely take on another battery string. I guess I'm not sure if I have my math correct in my o.p.
Solar panel array is (4) REC 375TP2SM72
Each Panel -375w, Charge Current 9.36 amp-(?), Max Power Voltage 40.1 so wired series parallel my math shows:
Total Charge Current:18.72 amps -

Panel values don't matter. They're on the other side of the MPPT. What matters is power out at battery voltage.

375W * 4 / 56.4V = 26.6A

PROVIDED your MPPT is capable of that output.

(The plc 2100 manual recommends 100 amp charge current. I believe I am misunderstanding this as far as the 9.36 amps that the plc manual is calling "Max Power Current")

100A is a max. There's also a chart of various charge curves that include C/5 and C/20. C20 is the lowest charge rate you should use as that risks low current charge induced sulfation.

Total Max Power Voltage: 80.2 volts
1500 watts.
I believe I would need more charge current for additional batteries which in turn would mean either rewiring my solar array(series), or adding panels, which in turn would mean the need for a higher voltage capacity CC (currently 150 volt). Does that seem correct?

You have a small surplus. If you can find similar size AGM that accept a similarly low charge rate, that should work.

I don't understand your comment about the charge controller as you don't have to add more panels in series to get more power. You can add more strings. What controller?
 
I guess I was just assuming that with additional storage, I would need additional charge current. What is throwing me off is the recommended charge current at 100 amps per battery in parallel. So what I'm seeing is that with my bank being all series, the value would be "per 1" and therefore 100 amps (recommended).
1713969961492.png
vs what my math showing coming out of my array is 18.72a. Perhaps that is 2 different things and I am correlating incorrectly. Or my math, or configuration I am using that math on, is incorrect. Perhaps it is compensated by the circled setting in the snapshot below? Anyway I was reasoning that if I needed more charge current, I would need more panels, or to wire my panels all parallel (I may have said series). If they were all parallel that would cut the voltage output in half which I believe would be insufficient?

I feel have a pretty good understanding of how my simple system works and why most of the settings below need to be set as listed. (You may think otherwise by some of the questions I'm asking:)). It's modifications and add-ons where I get fuzzy. Probably stems from the paranoia of inadvertently frying something.

I'm 99.8 % certain I have everything set to the parameters shown below for 48v on both my CC and My Inverter/Charger EXCEPT for the LBCO. I currently have that at 47v. (Recommended by tech support at AltE.) Recalling from earlier in this thread that you are saying this can be set much lower. I do remember some discrepancies in this value among the kilovault documents. I seem to remember having it set in the low 40s at some point. Last fall I had it at 48v(as recommended below) but was experiencing LBCO blackouts and AltE said I could go to 47.
The circled item, I believe, also relates to charge current. Please enlighten me if I am wrong. If my math is correct and output charge current is 18.72a, the "percentage" of 45amps, to add to result in 100a, would be 1.81%?
I do have these settings recorded but I am going to double check all my settings this weekend and make sure nothing inadvertently defaulted. I will come back on early next week and resume discussion armed with the knowledge of settings as-is at this point in time.
1713970457535.png
 
I guess I was just assuming that with additional storage, I would need additional charge current. What is throwing me off is the recommended charge current at 100 amps per battery in parallel. So what I'm seeing is that with my bank being all series, the value would be "per 1" and therefore 100 amps (recommended).

That entire line pertains to "MAX CHARGE CURRENT"

140A is the absolute MAX charge current.
100A is the recommended MAX charge current.


Page 13:

1713984415611.png

Since the manual is referencing charge currents, one can presume they are safe. There are no cautions about minimum charge currents.

C/20 is 180/20 = 9A.

This is the minimum I would consider acceptable for this battery, and it's consistent with other manufacturers' recommendations.

vs what my math showing coming out of my array is 18.72a. Perhaps that is 2 different things and I am correlating incorrectly. Or my math, or configuration I am using that math on, is incorrect. Perhaps it is compensated by the circled setting in the snapshot below? Anyway I was reasoning that if I needed more charge current, I would need more panels, or to wire my panels all parallel (I may have said series). If they were all parallel that would cut the voltage output in half which I believe would be insufficient?

Your array provides PV voltage and current to your MPPT. Your MPPT provides battery voltage and battery current to the battery.

PV_voltage * PV_current = BATT_voltage * BATT_current
Power in = power out.

It's the charge current that matters.

I'm 99.8 % certain I have everything set to the parameters shown below for 48v on both my CC and My Inverter/Charger EXCEPT for the LBCO. I currently have that at 47v. (Recommended by tech support at AltE.) Recalling from earlier in this thread that you are saying this can be set much lower. I do remember some discrepancies in this value among the kilovault documents. I seem to remember having it set in the low 40s at some point. Last fall I had it at 48v(as recommended below) but was experiencing LBCO blackouts and AltE said I could go to 47.

47V is likely overly restrictive as loads can easily pull a battery at > 50% SoC down to 47V.

The circled item, I believe, also relates to charge current. Please enlighten me if I am wrong. If my math is correct and output charge current is 18.72a, the "percentage" of 45amps, to add to result in 100a, would be 1.81%?

The maximum output of the inverter/charger to the batteries is 45A. Should be 45A since generator charging @ 45A + PV charging (max of about 27A) is still < 100A.

Your generator needs to be able to handle 45A * 56.4V = 2538W. For optimal efficiency and life, generator should be rated for about 3600W.

What is your PV charger?
 
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