meetyg
Solar Enthusiast
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2021
- Messages
- 1,093
Another update:
Finally got around to mounting the battery and solar components in a plastic ammo box.
I mounted the SCC, fuse/distribution box and breaker on a melamine coated piece of plywood.
I found that piece in the trash, which was used as a shelf for a bathroom cabinet. The fun part is that I didn't need to cut it at all. It fit perfectly in the ammo box.
I decided to use XT60 connectors between the SCC, MC4 connectors and fusebox, and between fusebox and loads, so that it would be easier to dismantle should I need to do some changes or maintenance.
I do regret not mounting the breaker (connected to the battery positive) in a more accessible location, like maybe on the lid if the ammo box, so that power could be disconnected without opening the box.
I might do that change in the future.
Here is are pictures of the box with the battery and shunt too.
I still have to add some double sided tape to hold the battery in place, and maybe add some foam between the SCC and the battery to prevent movement.
I have MC4 connectors on the back of the ammo box, connected to the SCC.
On the front, I have an XT60 for loads. This will be connected to the DC-DC boost converter box as posted previously. The problem is that I have run out of XT60 connectors, and I need one with a long cable to connect the two.
Anyways, I like how it turned out, because I can also use this as a portable solar generator, currently supplying only 12v DC loads up to 20A but in the future I would be able to add a small DC-AC inverter if I want to.
As you can see, I have a 30A mini-ANL fuse on the battery (in addition to a 30A breaker) and all connections are also fused accordingly, as they are connected to the fuse box (including the shunt's VIN line).
I powered the box just to see if all is connected well and surely enough the Juntek shunt displays voltage. I still need to test with loads/charging, to see that I can view proper current draw with the shunt.
That's it for now...
I have ordered some more XT60 connectors, but until they arrive I still can't install in my car.
But I will be doing some more testing with both "solar box" and with DC-DC converter box.
I still need to figure out how I can view both shunts from one display screen. The Juntek supports thus using addresses, but I need to learn how to set it up.
Finally got around to mounting the battery and solar components in a plastic ammo box.
I mounted the SCC, fuse/distribution box and breaker on a melamine coated piece of plywood.
I found that piece in the trash, which was used as a shelf for a bathroom cabinet. The fun part is that I didn't need to cut it at all. It fit perfectly in the ammo box.
I decided to use XT60 connectors between the SCC, MC4 connectors and fusebox, and between fusebox and loads, so that it would be easier to dismantle should I need to do some changes or maintenance.
I do regret not mounting the breaker (connected to the battery positive) in a more accessible location, like maybe on the lid if the ammo box, so that power could be disconnected without opening the box.
I might do that change in the future.
Here is are pictures of the box with the battery and shunt too.
I still have to add some double sided tape to hold the battery in place, and maybe add some foam between the SCC and the battery to prevent movement.
I have MC4 connectors on the back of the ammo box, connected to the SCC.
On the front, I have an XT60 for loads. This will be connected to the DC-DC boost converter box as posted previously. The problem is that I have run out of XT60 connectors, and I need one with a long cable to connect the two.
Anyways, I like how it turned out, because I can also use this as a portable solar generator, currently supplying only 12v DC loads up to 20A but in the future I would be able to add a small DC-AC inverter if I want to.
As you can see, I have a 30A mini-ANL fuse on the battery (in addition to a 30A breaker) and all connections are also fused accordingly, as they are connected to the fuse box (including the shunt's VIN line).
I powered the box just to see if all is connected well and surely enough the Juntek shunt displays voltage. I still need to test with loads/charging, to see that I can view proper current draw with the shunt.
That's it for now...
I have ordered some more XT60 connectors, but until they arrive I still can't install in my car.
But I will be doing some more testing with both "solar box" and with DC-DC converter box.
I still need to figure out how I can view both shunts from one display screen. The Juntek supports thus using addresses, but I need to learn how to set it up.