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DJI drone charging

Joelfred

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Jun 7, 2023
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sdotroenSp15729hgcm343g199ta448gu8l1g6llffcl447138m3a2af051f ·

looking to size and build a mobile charging station in my truck for a 1100 watt charger being able to charge minimum 10 x 6000 mAh (TB60) batteries for drone inspections on the go. Any thoughts on options? I would like to be able to top it off in hotel parking when I'm away or charge off the generator as solar is never guaranteed where I'm at. looking for components that can handle vibration and battery sizing and voltage options.
 
I believe they make a battery station case for the Matrice 300 which charges quite a few batteries. I'd get 1 or 2 of those then you can easily transport into the hotel room to charge and when on the road plug it into a cheap inverter that's connected to a LFP battery thats connected to a DC-DC charger off the cars alternator. Size the battery larger than the case and even when parked you'd just drain the battery to the case then when you drive it'll recharge the battery.
 
I just went through this with a coworker doing a wildlife survey drone service. The 'easy button' is simply to use a large-ish 'solar generator' and plug your chargers into it. It will have some/slow ability to charge from the 12v system of the vehicle, and the ability to charge quicker from an AC or higher voltage DC (aka 'solar') input, and you can carry or wheel it into your hotel room to charge.

The big hole in it is if you really want to aggressively charge it from the vehicle you're using. That would require the extra step of a large step-up converter such as a 12 to 48v step up converter to feed to the solar generator's solar panel input, or a separate 12v to 120v inverter large enough to support the generator's ac charge rate.
 
sdotroenSp15729hgcm343g199ta448gu8l1g6llffcl447138m3a2af051f ·

looking to size and build a mobile charging station in my truck for a 1100 watt charger being able to charge minimum 10 x 6000 mAh (TB60) batteries for drone inspections on the go. Any thoughts on options? I would like to be able to top it off in hotel parking when I'm away or charge off the generator as solar is never guaranteed where I'm at. looking for components that can handle vibration and battery sizing and voltage options.
For battery bank sizing you would probably need to convert everything to watt hours. Watts = Volts x Amps. If you have 10 6Ah batteries at 53v, that's ~3200 watt hours, times 1.25 for conversion inefficiency. ~4000 watt hours.

4000wh/12v 333ah. So you would probably want a 400ah battery bank at 12v, or 200ah at 24v. If you don't have any 12v loads to run might as well go with 24v.
 
That's a crucial factor, since i hadn't looked up or known that these were ~53v batteries..

That amount of Wh is on the very large end of solar generators. If that's enough to dissuade you against them, you could do something like a 51.2v 100ah battery and a 48v inverter or all in one inverter/charger. Basically a 'hand truck' style build. It will weigh a good 120-150lbs and cost $2k though. In terms of pure ergonomics you may still want to consider one of the types of solar generators that can take 'expansion' batteries for purposes of getting it all in and out of a truck bed without the risk of hurting yourself.
 
sdotroenSp15729hgcm343g199ta448gu8l1g6llffcl447138m3a2af051f ·

looking to size and build a mobile charging station in my truck for a 1100 watt charger being able to charge minimum 10 x 6000 mAh (TB60) batteries for drone inspections on the go. Any thoughts on options? I would like to be able to top it off in hotel parking when I'm away or charge off the generator as solar is never guaranteed where I'm at. looking for components that can handle vibration and battery sizing and voltage options.
I'd go with something like a Delta 2 max combined with a Honda eu2200i inverter generator.
 
Thanks all, I'm doing my research and yes it is a lot of wattage, when I said generator I meant Alternator as I need the capability to charge on the go. Right now I'm thinking the below setup. is there a quality vibration resistant all in one that has an alternator input? I'm already doing two trips up to the hotel with drone equipment and I don't want to do another with batteries so I'm putting a solid canopy over it all. What would really be nice is to plug into the E/V chargers as there at all hotels these days

-https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=435_436&products_id=195508
-https://www.amazon.com/Litime-LiFePO4-Battery-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B0BYH8J176/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=AY4FSZOGCPMW&keywords=litime%2B12v%2B230ah%2Blithium%2Bbattery%2Bself-heating%2Blow%2Btemperature&qid=1706017456&sprefix=litime%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.2b70bf2b-6730-4ccf-ab97-eb60747b8daf&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
-https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Sinewave-Inverter-VE-Direct/dp/B07P7RNRJ5/ref=sr_1_59?crid=3BRBZ1YLOXA67&keywords=inverter&qid=1706017648&sprefix=inverter%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-59&th=1
 
Ah, that does clarify things a good bit!

If you want to do alternator charging while on the go, it sort of behooves you to stick with a 12v system so you can use a fairly simple device called a DC-DC charger to accomplish this. What it does is 'step up' the voltage from your car's stock 12v electrical system so that it will FULLY and RAPIDLY charge the slightly higher voltage lithium batteries. Since you will probably be looking at having 200-400ah of batteries for this task, you would probably want the largest common size of such chargers which is 60a. Charging 400ah from empty with a 60a source would take ~7hrs, charging 200ah from empty would take ~3.5hr. Of course, there's a decent chance the batteries wouldn't be EMPTY anyway so charge time would be reduced in that case.

60a DC-DC chargers are available from right around $100 up to perhaps $400 for the most expensive ones. I bought a Ximaka on amazon for ~$71 with a coupon but havent installed it yet to say whether i liked it or not.

Using EV chargers is a bit tricky as there is a little bit of coded 'handshake' between the EVSE (the charge cord) and the vehicle/recipient before power will flow. It is possible to emulate that and get this done but it may not be something you are comfortable with DIYing, that's up to you. I believe I've seen a link to a pre-made conversion cable that would 'trick' the charge cord into becoming a normal 240vac extension cord.

One thing i would recommend in terms of batteries is that you try to stick to one single large battery for this project because unlike lead acid batteries, if you ever get two lithium batteries that are at different states of charge and connect them to each other in parallel, so much current can flow that it can be destructive to connections/cables. So to avoid the situation of you accidentally plugging two differently charged lithium batteries to each other, it would be preferable to have just one larger battery so that it wasn't even possible. However, a ~400ah 12v battery will weigh close to 100lbs. I have bought some 280ah in the past which weighed 55lbs and i found that manageable, personally.
 
For your application I think you might want to consider a separate components for dc-dc and mppt since that unit is limited to 50A output. The wiring is simple and those components don't take up much space.

It'll take a lot of juice to keep a 400ah battery charged. I would recommend figuring out what the maximum output your alternator can safely sustain and get a dc-dc charger that matches that.
 
60 amps is the largest *common* DC-DC size because that can equate to 100a on the input side in the worst case, which is right at the limit of most stock alternators. If you need something larger than that it is probably cheaper to buy two smaller units vs finding one oddball large unit.
 
Great info, thanks guys.
I'm looking at
-60 Amp DC-DC charger looking like Renogy has a good one
-200-400ah/12v heated battery, Li Time has a 200ah I was hoping for a little bigger, any recommendations?
-2000 watt minimum Inverter, any recommendations?
 
There are a fair number of 200-something Ah batteries on the market, 220-280ah for example. If i had to pick between them, all else being equal i would buy one with a metal case with a removable lid, so that if it did have a minor problem on the inside it would potentially be repairable. The all-plastic cases are basically 'melted shut' which means if it has any kind of internal problem whatsoever it takes a whole lot of careful effort to get into it without butchering the enclosure.
 
Victron dc to dc converters are the best option and pretty cheap. The 70-85a one is under 150. You just need to be careful of how much amperage you have with the stock alt.

They make j1772 to 120v 15a adapters so you can easily use an ev charger with the adapter to turn it into a normal plug.
 
Eco Flow Delta Pro would do everything you want and is portable, can be charged at free EV charging stations also with adaptor. I have used one in my Rv for two years on very rough roads without a problem. I use it to charge my electric dirt bike, drones along with running my complete RV. Recently selling for $1600 refurbished.
 

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Thanks all, I'm doing my research and yes it is a lot of wattage, when I said generator I meant Alternator as I need the capability to charge on the go. Right now I'm thinking the below setup. is there a quality vibration resistant all in one that has an alternator input? I'm already doing two trips up to the hotel with drone equipment and I don't want to do another with batteries so I'm putting a solid canopy over it all. What would really be nice is to plug into the E/V chargers as there at all hotels these days

-https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=435_436&products_id=195508
-https://www.amazon.com/Litime-LiFePO4-Battery-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B0BYH8J176/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=AY4FSZOGCPMW&keywords=litime%2B12v%2B230ah%2Blithium%2Bbattery%2Bself-heating%2Blow%2Btemperature&qid=1706017456&sprefix=litime%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.2b70bf2b-6730-4ccf-ab97-eb60747b8daf&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1
-https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Sinewave-Inverter-VE-Direct/dp/B07P7RNRJ5/ref=sr_1_59?crid=3BRBZ1YLOXA67&keywords=inverter&qid=1706017648&sprefix=inverter%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-59&th=1

I have a Kisea 1250 ,,, Love it

I had to copy & paste your link to see what you referenced.

For my opinions, I would need to know about your vehicle

Kisae “soon” if not already has a 12100 ( the 12 is alternator voltage & 100 is max amperage ).

I assume your already charger is 120vac @ 1100W max.

So in my mind you need a decent setup something like;

LFP batteries ( that can fuel the inverter & at capacity for your needs )
Kisae 1250
Decent inverter



The AIO units like the Eco Flow, might have gotten better now, but were quite limited by alternator charging. I prefer DIY design/building over these proprietary AIOs. But DIY is not for everyone. There are Pros & Cons to all decisions regarding “AIO” vs DIY.

If you are interested in a hybrid solution @HarryN might be able to build you something like an AIO but “serviceable“ & component replaceable / upgradable. You could message him.


Also, that Kisae is a dual ( Alternator & Solar ) charger ,,, so if you have some solar panels you can get the batteries replenished a bit with the sun’s cooperation 😁👍.


Info I would need from you to analyze;

1) Vehicle Alternator and available power to the “Kisae” or similar DC2DC charger.
2) The Charger “Draw” ,,, is it 1100W ? 120vac ( or somewhat less ?? )
3) Energy needed to replace ,,, how many Watt Hours ? ( total before including multiple charges prior to getting the LFPs topped back up)? This info will assist in battery selection.

Please forgive me if the above info has already been provided. I find it best on these forums that the OP states direct ,,, it is important for clarity. I am asking specific questions ,,, note wording “available power” above, you may not know this for your vehicle & it can change upon conditions. So, if you answer those questions I will have some ideas of your needs, rather than just blindly recommending equipment.

The Kisae 1250 is capable of about 14v @ 50a or 700W power from an alternator ,,, the 12100 is capable of about 1400W power I assume ( manual attached fir your reading ). The Kisae units are very user programmable ,,, very ,,, you can tailor them to your alternator & batteries.

For what I assume your needs are, I would be looking at something like this Epoch ( note 300 amp capable discharge - 1BMS & can easily run a 2000W inverter “roughly 67% of it’s capability” or if all you are drawing is 1100W about 35% of its capability“ - I don’t like “redlining“ electrical gear );

IMG_0878.jpeg


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I take a Ecoflow delta and have it plugged into the car to charge. Car has 120v inverter but limited to 500 watts so just leave it charging the whole time we're driving (and adjust charge rate in ecoflow app). Takes about 45 minutes to charge a battery, so I only need a 4 battery charger to be able to fly continuously with no downtime. Plus there's a million other portable uses for the ecoflow. It runs my camping refrigerators, etc.
 
This is definitely an ideal use case for an ecoflow or any other power stations. Simple and easy to bring into a hotel room if wanting to recharge.
 
I have a Kisea 1250 ,,, Love it

I had to copy & paste your link to see what you referenced.

For my opinions, I would need to know about your vehicle

Kisae “soon” if not already has a 12100 ( the 12 is alternator voltage & 100 is max amperage ).

I assume your already charger is 120vac @ 1100W max.

So in my mind you need a decent setup something like;

LFP batteries ( that can fuel the inverter & at capacity for your needs )
Kisae 1250
Decent inverter



The AIO units like the Eco Flow, might have gotten better now, but were quite limited by alternator charging. I prefer DIY design/building over these proprietary AIOs. But DIY is not for everyone. There are Pros & Cons to all decisions regarding “AIO” vs DIY.

If you are interested in a hybrid solution @HarryN might be able to build you something like an AIO but “serviceable“ & component replaceable / upgradable. You could message him.


Also, that Kisae is a dual ( Alternator & Solar ) charger ,,, so if you have some solar panels you can get the batteries replenished a bit with the sun’s cooperation 😁👍.


Info I would need from you to analyze;

1) Vehicle Alternator and available power to the “Kisae” or similar DC2DC charger.
2) The Charger “Draw” ,,, is it 1100W ? 120vac ( or somewhat less ?? )
3) Energy needed to replace ,,, how many Watt Hours ? ( total before including multiple charges prior to getting the LFPs topped back up)? This info will assist in battery selection.

Please forgive me if the above info has already been provided. I find it best on these forums that the OP states direct ,,, it is important for clarity. I am asking specific questions ,,, note wording “available power” above, you may not know this for your vehicle & it can change upon conditions. So, if you answer those questions I will have some ideas of your needs, rather than just blindly recommending equipment.

The Kisae 1250 is capable of about 14v @ 50a or 700W power from an alternator ,,, the 12100 is capable of about 1400W power I assume ( manual attached fir your reading ). The Kisae units are very user programmable ,,, very ,,, you can tailor them to your alternator & batteries.

For what I assume your needs are, I would be looking at something like this Epoch ( note 300 amp capable discharge - 1BMS & can easily run a 2000W inverter “roughly 67% of it’s capability” or if all you are drawing is 1100W about 35% of its capability“ - I don’t like “redlining“ electrical gear );

View attachment 191623


View attachment 191624


1. From what I know it sounds like 60 Amps is the max most vehicle alternators can distribute so I was thinking a 50 amp DC to DC charger would be good.
2. yes, drone batt charger draw is 1100 watts at 120v AC
3. from another post this looks right, 10x6Ah batteries at 53v, that's ~3200 watt hours, times 1.25 for conversion inefficiency. ~4000 watt hours. my work schedule with the drone is normally 1.5 Hours vehicle off .5 drive to next location 1.5 off on average however if the drive time is shortened I could just idle the vehicle if need be but not ideal. my thoughts right now are something between 12v 200ah-400ah and would like heating for the cold days, your recommendation looks good.
 
1. From what I know it sounds like 60 Amps is the max most vehicle alternators can distribute so I was thinking a 50 amp DC to DC charger would be good.
2. yes, drone batt charger draw is 1100 watts at 120v AC
3. from another post this looks right, 10x6Ah batteries at 53v, that's ~3200 watt hours, times 1.25 for conversion inefficiency. ~4000 watt hours. my work schedule with the drone is normally 1.5 Hours vehicle off .5 drive to next location 1.5 off on average however if the drive time is shortened I could just idle the vehicle if need be but not ideal. my thoughts right now are something between 12v 200ah-400ah and would like heating for the cold days, your recommendation looks good.

So let’s look at it 👍;

#3) 4000Whr including inverter efficiency is your daily energy need 👍

#2) 1100W / say 80% efficiency would give you a 1375W power ,,, so a 2000W inverter should be plenty ,,, thus for easy math drop a zero & you can expect your typical current from a 12vdc battery to be less than 200 amps.

#1) So this is where you issue will be. The only source that you can get this spec/info from is the vehicle manufacturer. Alternators & available power to charge your system depends upon many variable; temperature, rpm, other vehicle needs ( like charging the starter battery or HVAC or etc ). I have a Promaster van with a 220A alternator & the “van” can use more than 180A itself under the right conditions. It is important for you to “figure this out to the best of your ability”. You could consider a 2nd alternator just to charge your DIY system.

So if You DIY or buy an AIO unit really comes down to #1 & the “available power” that can go to the DIY system.

Now that being said, AIO are getting better, but you would need to look at the specs & understand their operations & limitations. If you have a particular Make / Model in mind you can post it here & it can be reviewed in light of your application. Pros & Cons to all decision.

Some of the Cons to AIO in the past;

1) Very slow alternator charging capability ( anything off a cigarette lighter / power plug by definition is dismal ). Some new AIO are better now, but depends upon which model

2) Self energy consuming ,,, idle energy use ,,, might not matter if the unit is turned off, but this spec & how a unit functions really matters in the equasion.

3) Upgrade or serviceability


If you do not have the “alternator power” available to recharge a DIY or AIO for the timeframe of your driving, then you will need grid power 120vac or solar ( & the Sun’s cooperation ), or a generator.

Aquire the “specs” of your vehicle & alternator, but if it is a 60 amp alternator I am not sure what the auxiliary power would be ,,, but I highly doubt 50 amps ,,, I’m guessing more like 10A, 20A, maybe 30A if the vehicle loads are light.

So 140W / 280W / 420W ,,, & You need 4000Whrs 😳 ,,, Back to the drawing board.

Even @ 50A @ 14V = 700W you would need to drive about 6 hours to replenish 4000Whrs

Unless I misunderstood your scenario, I highly doubt you will achieve alternator charging 4000Whrs ,,, DIY system or AIO and shore power / grid ( or generator ).


Not that Drone Batteries are inexpensive ,,, but another way of looking at it is just double your drone battery quantity ( & chargers ) & go to the field work with more drone batteries. I don’t totally understand your scenario, but more Drone Batteries might be your solution 🤷‍♂️? When looking at the economics of this ( all batteries ), like tires on a car are a consumable. More drone batteries you have cuts out the middleman or in this case the middle electrical equipment. If you are a commercial operator, time is money & more drone batteries = less waiting to charge, less down time, more redundancy, more grid charging where you are way less limited. I am guessing plugged into a grid 120vac, you have your 4000Whrs charged up in about 4hrs. Double your drone batteries / charger then you have 8000Whrs in 4hrs @ your hotel room.

Again; I do not fully understand your needs, but you are considering a DIY or AIO & alternator to charge drone batteries by having LFP batteries. Maybe just double your drone batteries 🤷‍♂️?


OR;

Buy what you need for field capacity in LFP batteries & assume recharging them by EV Plug In & Grid, if that is available. At that point, I’m guessing you are looking at 48v battery bank ( maybe 24v ), and an ( Inverter / Charger ) unit ,,, and any alternator / solar input is going to be a drop in the bucket assistance to you.
 
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Consider adding a receiver hitch trailer, and a portable inverter-gen (your choice of fuels). In the field, fire up the gen and support any array of drone battery chargers (no inverter needed at this stage). These hitch frames hold upwards of 500lbs, and you can build a secure frame around them (or move stuff into the vehicle at night, while at a hotel).

I'd still build a portable "solar generator", as here you can get the battery-bank sized to fit your personal requirements in the field. No need to charge at hotel (or lug stuff back & forth) because the gen can recharge the battery-bank. It always seems that you get more capacity for your money if DIY, whereas with the vendor solar gens, you get more show-features at higher cost & smaller capacity.

Hope this helps ...
 
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