Renogy DC DC Charger w/ MPPT

[Jims94vmx]

No one mentions setting up for 600 watts? Since limiting amps because of the branch connectors, could a combiner box be used?

A lot of interest in this unit for sure.....still on my radar for later this year.....

 

[RandyP]

You might want to think about the current flowing in each ground cable, how it relates to where the cables are terminated. I think it is correct to use one 4AWG in the case you note above.

Can't fix my stupid too often. But I will try here. I was wrong, the ampacity of the one "-" wire from the the buss bar to the MCC50S "-" term point should be equal to the max solar panel "+" wire current plus the max Starter Battery "+" current plus the Battery Bank "+' current. That might be 3x9.85+75+65~180 amp wire. Could that be right ? Probably not, because the device only allows concurrent solar and start battery ampacity of 25A each for 50 amps total. The output to the Battery Bank is limited to 50A max. I think that the max ampacity of the one "-" wire should be 100 A. It might be a very short wire so perhaps voltage drop may not be significant (#6 AWG min wire size). I am using a #4 AWG wire for this. What do you think ?

 

[bcolins]

Will, I plan on adopting your blueprint for the 400 watt plan with the above Renogy DC to DC controller and due to very limited roof space on my Sprinter RV, wanted to use 2 x 200 watt glass panels,....You previously had a recommended set of 200 watt glass panels, but they are no longer listed. Are there no acceptable 200 watt panels available in your opinion? Brian Collins Austin, TX (Village Farm Tiny Home community)

Group,......I was looking for my above post to edit it,.....and lo and behold,.....noticed that this very topic is being discussed just above my post,.....apologies for the redundant nature of the post,....and will now go read and learn. Brian in Austin

 

[Lonesome Cowboy]

Want to buy one of the 100 amp MMPT, but they told me 6 weeks to deliver to Wyoming.

 

[RandyP]

Want to buy one of the 100 amp MMPT, but they told me 6 weeks to deliver to Wyoming.

Who are "they" ?
Is this the one, available at home depot webb order, pick up at your local home depot In Ft. Collins, July 10-15 ?

Renogy Rover Li 48-Volt 100 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller Auto LED Display RNG-CTRL-RVR100 - The Home Depot

Introducing the new 100 Amp Rover MPPT Charge Controller, the largest Rover controller that Renogy has to offer. Capable of supporting up to 1300-Watt on 12-Volt, 2600-Watt on 24-Volt, 3900-Watt on 36-Volt

www.homedepot.com

 

[harley]

Safer is a subjective judgement.
I am using HighTec Solar panels, rated at 210 w, they also have 200 W panels.

Hightec Solar 215W 36 Cell 12V Nominal Solar Panel - 5 Bus bar

Description HIGHTEC SOLAR 215W 36-cell 12V nominal solar panel is a photovoltaic module designed to convert sunlight into electrical energy. This Solar panel has a power rating of 215 watts. This indicates the maximum amount of power the panel can generate under ideal conditions, typically full...

www.continuousresources.com

Hightec Solar 200W 36 Cell 12V Nominal Solar Panel - 5 Busbar - UL Listed

Description HIGHTEC SOLAR 200W 36-cell 12V nominal solar panel is a photovoltaic module designed to convert sunlight into electrical energy. This Solar panel has a power rating of 200 watts. This indicates the maximum amount of power the panel can generate under ideal conditions, typically full...

www.continuousresources.com

You might also check out NewPowa 200 W panel.

200W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel

Newpowa 200W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel is commonly used in RV, marine, overlanding, traffic signals and various off-grid applications. Top experienced American solar panel brand. Free shipping!

www.newpowa.com

For safety, compare the panels ratings with the MCC50S specs. Stay within the MCC50S specs for safety.

Yes, run all the - circuits (as you itemized) to the - bus bar, then one negative from - BB to MCC50S controller. I suggested this before. It would be difficult to get three - circuit termlugs on the MCC50S - term point. I see that you have not added the three switch/CB's I suggested previoussly. You have not yet added a main fuse for the battery either.

Yes, run all the - circuits (as you itemized) to the - bus bar, then one negative from - BB to MCC50S controller. I suggested this before. It would be difficult to get three - circuit termlugs on the MCC50S - term point. I see that you have not added the three switch/CB's I suggested previoussly. You have not yet added a main fuse for the battery either.

Hey @RandyP thanks for your response.

here's the updated diagram. You said I don't have a main fuse for the battery in there..? I have the 60A ANL fuse (circled in pink) - not sure where else you would be talking about?? Happy to replace that 60A ANL for an equivalent rated CB to ensue the DCC50S cab be easily isolated. I got a green square in place of where I'll put the CB off the + Solar panel as you've suggested. In your most recent message you mentioned "... the three switch/ CB's you mentioned earlier" - where do you think I need another CB?

Also, I order and received another Renogy 500A monitor (RBM500) incase the indication of "inversely connected terminals" was happen due to a defective bit of gear - I hooked the new RBM500 up today and sadly, with the starter batter connected and car running (charge being sent into the DCC50S) the backlight of the RBM immediately starts blinking again (which as per the RMB500 manual indicates B- and P- terminals are "inversely connected" ((

 

[harley]

whoops sorry I think my reply seems to have been to the wrong message (I'm pretty new to forums... sorry..)

 

[harley]

You might want to think about the current flowing in each ground cable, how it relates to where the cables are terminated. I think it is correct to use one 4AWG in the case you note above.

I'm using 4AWG everywhere.

 

[RandyP]

Hey @RandyP thanks for your response.

here's the updated diagram. You said I don't have a main fuse for the battery in there..? I have the 60A ANL fuse (circled in pink) - not sure where else you would be talking about?? Happy to replace that 60A ANL for an equivalent rated CB to ensue the DCC50S cab be easily isolated. I got a green square in place of where I'll put the CB off the + Solar panel as you've suggested. In your most recent message you mentioned "... the three switch/ CB's you mentioned earlier" - where do you think I need another CB?

Also, I order and received another Renogy 500A monitor (RBM500) incase the indication of "inversely connected terminals" was happen due to a defective bit of gear - I hooked the new RBM500 up today and sadly, with the starter batter connected and car running (charge being sent into the DCC50S) the backlight of the RBM immediately starts blinking again (which as per the RMB500 manual indicates B- and P- terminals are "inversely connected" ((

View attachment 16775

OK, here's the suggestions.

 

[harley]

thanks

 

[harley]

OK, here's the suggestions.
View attachment 16810

?thanks

 

[RandyP]

Switching rated CB:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMFJIO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Main fuse at battery:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019ZBTV4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Starter Battery main switch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019ZBTV4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

 

[RandyP]

OK, here's the suggestions.
View attachment 16810

One more detail, put the chassis ground on the '-' bus, not the LiFePO4 battery '-' post. The shunt works better that way.

 

[Sgt Raven]

Can't fix my stupid too often. But I will try here. I was wrong, the ampacity of the one "-" wire from the the buss bar to the MCC50S "-" term point should be equal to the max solar panel "+" wire current plus the max Starter Battery "+" current plus the Battery Bank "+' current. That might be 3x9.85+75+65~180 amp wire. Could that be right ? Probably not, because the device only allows concurrent solar and start battery ampacity of 25A each for 50 amps total. The output to the Battery Bank is limited to 50A max. I think that the max ampacity of the one "-" wire should be 100 A. It might be a very short wire so perhaps voltage drop may not be significant (#6 AWG min wire size). I am using a #4 AWG wire for this. What do you think ?

I would use 4AWG as my minimum jumper, might step up to 2AWG. For your one short run, it shouldn't cast very much for that one.

 

[B_E_N]

Hi everyone, sorry for posting again. maybe the post got missed out.
i would like to seek some expertise from everyone here on how can i charge a solar generator using this DC-DC system that i intent to install in my vehicle.
generally i plan to have a small alternate lithium battery fixed in the vehicle to run some 12v items mainly LEDs(this battery will be permanently be in the vehicle)
but at the same time i would like to use a solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter rather than a 12v-220v inverter so i can take it out to use anywhere when i need to.

i have did a edit from will diagram which i was thinking where can i tap the solar generator into from the wiring to charge it up.
i hope someone can help me with this.

thank you.

 

[RandyP]

I would use 4AWG as my minimum jumper, might step up to 2AWG. For your one short run, it shouldn't cast very much for that one.

I used this tol :

Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems

The #4 wire & lugs just fit in the 'slot' for wire & Terms in the MCC50S. Did the #2 wire also fit ?

 

[RandyP]

Hi everyone, sorry for posting again. maybe the post got missed out.
i would like to seek some expertise from everyone here on how can i charge a solar generator using this DC-DC system that i intent to install in my vehicle.
generally i plan to have a small alternate lithium battery fixed in the vehicle to run some 12v items mainly LEDs(this battery will be permanently be in the vehicle)
but at the same time i would like to use a solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter rather than a 12v-220v inverter so i can take it out to use anywhere when i need to.

i have did a edit from will diagram which i was thinking where can i tap the solar generator into from the wiring to charge it up.
i hope someone can help me with this.

thank you.
View attachment 16827

From your post " solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter ".
You must be in Europe.
Make/model/part number of solar generator ?

 

[B_E_N]

From your post " solar generator to provide all the 220v applications as a mobile inverter ".
You must be in Europe.
Make/model/part number of solar generator ?

Hi, i am from Singapore ??, we uses 220V here as well.
I am looking at either getting the ecoflow delta or bluetti AC200.
May i know you are asking for the model is it because different generator accept different charging voltage input thus placing the generator at different part of the diagram matters?

 

[Sgt Raven]

I used this tol :

Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems

The #4 wire & lugs just fit in the 'slot' for wire & Terms in the MCC50S. Did the #2 wire also fit ?

I don't understand the question. doesn't the DCC50S just use lugged cables for their hookups? I thought this thread was about the Renogy DCC50S.

 

[RandyP]

I don't understand the question. doesn't the DCC50S just use lugged cables for their hookups? I thought this thread was about the Renogy DCC50S.

OOPs, DCC50S, not MCC50S. Yes, you are right.
The term points on the DCC50S just barely accepted my #4 wire (limited width channel) were you able to get #2 wire to fit ?
There are covers that go on the device and cover the wires. To use the covers the wire needs to fit in the slot.
I have interchanged MCC50S mistakenly for DCC50S in my last few posts. Sorry about this. I used the wrong term.