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Here you go, a link why AM Solar will not install flex panels (or us either) with pictures! and alot of words too..- clicky here..

Inverter and SCC(Solar Charge Controller) are different beasts, the only thing they have in common is they're both connected to the battery- that's it. SO..... SCC: Always connect battery first before solar (PV) connecting + or - first doesn't matter. Solar down at 100+ volts will produce a...

If you series some panels you add the VOC of each panel and that 'string' uses the lowest amp panel in the series so matching amp panels is golden EXCEPT for this: Any panel in that string that is shadowed effects the entire series string so in series you want idealy no shadows on any panel...

T/S= trouble shoot.

Back to OP: 1) Not knowing how important a DC amp clamp is in a solar powered RV. 2) Ruining 4 6v batteries in my RV not knowing the on board charging circuit in the converter only charged at 1.5 amps when I constantly pulled 10+ amps. 3) Thinking the sticker on the back of a solar panel...

True and false. I never believed this as I've run a Midnite Kid MPPT off 3 155w 12v panels in series with a Xantrex C40 PWM with 2 150w and a 100w in parellel with an Airbreeze 12v wind turbine with its own controller built in all to the same battery bank and everything has been fine- amps are...

Okay I recommend watching Wills video on how to size a solar system- it uses the watt hour method: So your 12v 50ah battery is 600wh/2=300wh usable before 50% drain. Your 12v 50watt load is 50wh per hour. As SCClockDr calcuated 50watts @ 12v=4.16amps, call it 4.2a. It will use those amps if...

Just to butt in a sec and leave- the fridge is DC, figure it'll always draw just under an amp and 4-4.5a when the compressor is on- I have an Alpicool C20. For inverter size look at the power brick of the macbook (if it has one- don't know Apple stuff) to know how many watts it uses, but...

Alpicools cost less. But while I could be a jerk and say what I just did, 2 years ago I was amazed compressors came in low amp 12v units AND were affordable. Was out of the loop then and caught up, like you are now. This season saw a full-size RV fridge with seperate fridge/freezer guy got for...

Sorry guys I learned to work in real world, not paperwork. Paperwork is messy and tech support lies because most are clueless. And gel is off the table never dealt with any.

You really need the charge specs for your specific battery but: First you could try and charge the battery at 14.7 volts if your charger will let you, let that happen 2 days with no load on the battery. Bulk and absorb charge states should be around 14.7 volts then float 13.6ish once the...

Your batteries need to be equalized at 15.3v for 8 hours. Twice.

Please work in a Solar RV install shop for just one season, please SolarRat. See how batteries are abused by undercharging/over discharging and what is the fix/temporary patch? Equalizing.

More specifically (sorry gnubie) look at the 'input' of the power brick. 100-240v your inverter is 120v so you're super. I mean fine. I mean yep it'll work. Remember your inverter at 120V is the same as a power socket at home. In the US anyway. As for amps it's a 3000W inverter so that's a...

Only due to the cargo trailer here's some realities you can build on. 52v batteries= you'll need an inverter which you have that 300 watt one. You'll need a controller and battery to store the energy needed to power the inverter and charger and the tricky part you'll need solar to charge the...

Little late but the HighTec panels were brought into the shop I work at by a part time installer and turned into our best sellers out the door and to install on rigs due to size VS watt ratio. So the pros: a 180W panel and the 200W are both 9 amp panels that are actually real world 9 amp panels...

I have an AlpiCool C20 running since Dec 2018 off 2 Interstate 6v batteries- great frige, keeps frozen if needed in 110-120F weather. Uses 1a constant and 4-4.5 when the compressor runs. Your Battleborns should laugh at it for days. Rest of the stuff, eh. Enjoy your test.

Ignore the load out. If you're in a situation like I am I use load out to another controller to charge my starter battery but that's on a controller with a programmable load out and an advanced subject so for now ignore the the load out. So it goes kinda like you stated: Solar panel > regulator...

In series only 8.85 amps would be coming down at 240ish volts so depends on the length of run 10 gauge or 8 gauge would be fine. What matters is wire size from controller to batteries in your case and that's based on again the run and system voltage.

Figure 72amps. Look up a DC wiring chart for amps/length. For example this thing says for a 15' run at 30' with a 3% loss use #4.

Sorry to say but this is a real thing. I've done it with zero problems. After doing a T/S on a rig for something else found out his inverter/charger will start charging immediately plugged in but takes 2 minutes clicking on and off before charginging when the generator is on- probably a...

#6 or 8 will be fine, linked chart starts at 10 feet.

Determine your amps coming down and multiply by 1.5 that's the amp rating you need- either a fuse, resettable auto breaker (the power is DC not AC) or a circuit breaker in a combiner box. Depending on the amount of amps you could use a 60a ANL, 20a ATC, 10a mini-ATC or just an off switch that...

About watt ratings. I'm pretty sure it applies to all panels. We sell and install Sonali panels also and all of them are scanned individually and a piece of paper is taped to each one, this 200w panel is 205, that one 201, that person has a great personality so he/she is getting the 211 and so...

More details? Okay. A PWM controller is 12v in 12v out, 24v in then 24v out, they can't be mixed like I did. PWN was the original solar controller design, it simply took the 20ish VOC from the panels and well, bridged it to the 13-14v a 12v battery needed to charge while regulating the amps to...

I'll bite. Plan on insulating that thing no idea on cost. 2000W Solar sounds good but into a 4000w mppt inverter? Too many eggs in a single basket; personally, keep it simple and secure- seperate controllers to batteries as a failsafe and run a seperate inverter, just my opinion here. LifePo4...

"Please contact our Tech Support team at 909-287-7100 for any questions about the BMS." Right from the manual. Okay quick edit, it's the BMS that would do the lockout so if you don't know what a BMS is call tech support.

The Zamp is a ZS-30AP, however it's rebranded according to a Samlex controller we have that looks just like it and no one is saying where it came from. It's a small 30 amp PWM meant for RV use not residential. It's been discontinued because looking at it wrong could pop a capacitor, it's flush...

Let me simplify: My 1000w pure sign inverter uses .9 amps to power itself, 1.5a when the fan turns on. I can run a corded Dremel with it, my entire entertainment station AND charge my laptop and phone and it's not wired to the ac panel. Adapters are great for day trips, have one in my car.

Battery solenoid to the rescue.