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Here you go, a link why AM Solar will not install flex panels (or us either) with pictures! and alot of words too..- clicky here..

Inverter and SCC(Solar Charge Controller) are different beasts, the only thing they have in common is they're both connected to the battery- that's it. SO..... SCC: Always connect battery first before solar (PV) connecting + or - first doesn't matter. Solar down at 100+ volts will produce a...

If you series some panels you add the VOC of each panel and that 'string' uses the lowest amp panel in the series so matching amp panels is golden EXCEPT for this: Any panel in that string that is shadowed effects the entire series string so in series you want idealy no shadows on any panel...

T/S= trouble shoot.

Back to OP: 1) Not knowing how important a DC amp clamp is in a solar powered RV. 2) Ruining 4 6v batteries in my RV not knowing the on board charging circuit in the converter only charged at 1.5 amps when I constantly pulled 10+ amps. 3) Thinking the sticker on the back of a solar panel...

True and false. I never believed this as I've run a Midnite Kid MPPT off 3 155w 12v panels in series with a Xantrex C40 PWM with 2 150w and a 100w in parellel with an Airbreeze 12v wind turbine with its own controller built in all to the same battery bank and everything has been fine- amps are...

Okay I recommend watching Wills video on how to size a solar system- it uses the watt hour method: So your 12v 50ah battery is 600wh/2=300wh usable before 50% drain. Your 12v 50watt load is 50wh per hour. As SCClockDr calcuated 50watts @ 12v=4.16amps, call it 4.2a. It will use those amps if...

Just to butt in a sec and leave- the fridge is DC, figure it'll always draw just under an amp and 4-4.5a when the compressor is on- I have an Alpicool C20. For inverter size look at the power brick of the macbook (if it has one- don't know Apple stuff) to know how many watts it uses, but...

Alpicools cost less. But while I could be a jerk and say what I just did, 2 years ago I was amazed compressors came in low amp 12v units AND were affordable. Was out of the loop then and caught up, like you are now. This season saw a full-size RV fridge with seperate fridge/freezer guy got for...

Sorry guys I learned to work in real world, not paperwork. Paperwork is messy and tech support lies because most are clueless. And gel is off the table never dealt with any.

You really need the charge specs for your specific battery but: First you could try and charge the battery at 14.7 volts if your charger will let you, let that happen 2 days with no load on the battery. Bulk and absorb charge states should be around 14.7 volts then float 13.6ish once the...

Your batteries need to be equalized at 15.3v for 8 hours. Twice.

Please work in a Solar RV install shop for just one season, please SolarRat. See how batteries are abused by undercharging/over discharging and what is the fix/temporary patch? Equalizing.

More specifically (sorry gnubie) look at the 'input' of the power brick. 100-240v your inverter is 120v so you're super. I mean fine. I mean yep it'll work. Remember your inverter at 120V is the same as a power socket at home. In the US anyway. As for amps it's a 3000W inverter so that's a...

Only due to the cargo trailer here's some realities you can build on. 52v batteries= you'll need an inverter which you have that 300 watt one. You'll need a controller and battery to store the energy needed to power the inverter and charger and the tricky part you'll need solar to charge the...

Little late but the HighTec panels were brought into the shop I work at by a part time installer and turned into our best sellers out the door and to install on rigs due to size VS watt ratio. So the pros: a 180W panel and the 200W are both 9 amp panels that are actually real world 9 amp panels...

I have an AlpiCool C20 running since Dec 2018 off 2 Interstate 6v batteries- great frige, keeps frozen if needed in 110-120F weather. Uses 1a constant and 4-4.5 when the compressor runs. Your Battleborns should laugh at it for days. Rest of the stuff, eh. Enjoy your test.

Ignore the load out. If you're in a situation like I am I use load out to another controller to charge my starter battery but that's on a controller with a programmable load out and an advanced subject so for now ignore the the load out. So it goes kinda like you stated: Solar panel > regulator...

In series only 8.85 amps would be coming down at 240ish volts so depends on the length of run 10 gauge or 8 gauge would be fine. What matters is wire size from controller to batteries in your case and that's based on again the run and system voltage.

Figure 72amps. Look up a DC wiring chart for amps/length. For example this thing says for a 15' run at 30' with a 3% loss use #4.

Sorry to say but this is a real thing. I've done it with zero problems. After doing a T/S on a rig for something else found out his inverter/charger will start charging immediately plugged in but takes 2 minutes clicking on and off before charginging when the generator is on- probably a...

#6 or 8 will be fine, linked chart starts at 10 feet.

Determine your amps coming down and multiply by 1.5 that's the amp rating you need- either a fuse, resettable auto breaker (the power is DC not AC) or a circuit breaker in a combiner box. Depending on the amount of amps you could use a 60a ANL, 20a ATC, 10a mini-ATC or just an off switch that...

About watt ratings. I'm pretty sure it applies to all panels. We sell and install Sonali panels also and all of them are scanned individually and a piece of paper is taped to each one, this 200w panel is 205, that one 201, that person has a great personality so he/she is getting the 211 and so...

More details? Okay. A PWM controller is 12v in 12v out, 24v in then 24v out, they can't be mixed like I did. PWN was the original solar controller design, it simply took the 20ish VOC from the panels and well, bridged it to the 13-14v a 12v battery needed to charge while regulating the amps to...

I'll bite. Plan on insulating that thing no idea on cost. 2000W Solar sounds good but into a 4000w mppt inverter? Too many eggs in a single basket; personally, keep it simple and secure- seperate controllers to batteries as a failsafe and run a seperate inverter, just my opinion here. LifePo4...

"Please contact our Tech Support team at 909-287-7100 for any questions about the BMS." Right from the manual. Okay quick edit, it's the BMS that would do the lockout so if you don't know what a BMS is call tech support.

The Zamp is a ZS-30AP, however it's rebranded according to a Samlex controller we have that looks just like it and no one is saying where it came from. It's a small 30 amp PWM meant for RV use not residential. It's been discontinued because looking at it wrong could pop a capacitor, it's flush...

Let me simplify: My 1000w pure sign inverter uses .9 amps to power itself, 1.5a when the fan turns on. I can run a corded Dremel with it, my entire entertainment station AND charge my laptop and phone and it's not wired to the ac panel. Adapters are great for day trips, have one in my car.

Battery solenoid to the rescue.

There can be volts without amps. Get a dirt cheap amp clamp and just point the panel to the sun and short the panel leads together then amp clamp it to read the amps. Okay edit here: to check volts off MC4's don't poke the wire, touch the leads at the MC4 ends. For amps plug + into - MC4 (not...

I dare anyone to search for "Coulomb Meter" and make any sense out of what it is and repeat it in normal-person speech. Better to search "Bogart Trimetric battery monitor" or "Expion360 battery monitor" for the universal battery monitors or for Midnite controllers the "Whizbang Jr." All will...

It's Quartzsite, Az. You know rock capital of the world, Big Tent Rv Jan 14th+10 days. There's only 2 solar install shops here Discount Solar and Solar Bills however there's 4 huge BLM lands that are open from like Sept 15 to April 15 where people can dry camp for $180.00 all winter and...

Yea, Will didn't like them due to lack of distribution. I don't like them due to no user feedback. They seem niche'. Distributor was going to test them out personally and if they turned out not being crap attempt to aquire distribution rights. Problem is they'd cost as much as lithium to start...

Biggest difference: battery connector arraingment. On the 1000w Tech-On (I have it) they suck! + and - dang near touching each other with no shield like that 1500w GoWISE. The Tech-on is great through, has survived 2 summers 110+ F unshaded on the doghouse of my motorhome and never quit due to...

What those meters I mention do is not only tell the SOC% (I always ignore that and have a Whizbang Jr- there is no Sr) and voltage but also current amps in and out and amp hours remaining in real time. Real time means they track both charge AND discharge from the batteries. They're the bees...

Watts/amps/volts is a trinity calculation. Know 2 of 3 can calculate the 3rd. Just a clue to go on as I always forget which is multiply and which is divide.

Just buy a Battleborn 100ah lithium 12v (30-40lbs, forget, light though) or used Valance 40ah and you're set. BTW: lithium is "white gold"- a finite recourse tack that on with supply vs demand = high cost. Eveyone can pile on there poo-poo to this post now.

One nice thing about the 30a Kid that the Classics don't have is a up to 30a programmable load out. Can charge 2 battery banks with a cheap controller between load out and the 2nd. bank during the Kids float if one wants.

Nhh, 12-19v requires power from the adapter also so which is less? adapter or inverter? Have an Asus gaming laptop requires 19.5v input and a Acer NAV50 netbook just at 19V, the powerbrick sizes are for the amps not the volts- I'd take a pure sine inverter over adapter any day simply due to...

Just my thought on your fridge, it's a 3 way which means it's absorption which means it's a power hog on electric so keep it on propane. Also 800w ac for tea is about 80ish amps dc. So rundown: 1. dunno. 2. Basic and Later mean you're learning and heading to v3. I'd just recommend a Battleborn...

Your battery will be fine staying connected. To disconnect them means over time (less then a week in some cases) they will slowly self-discharge which will lead to sulfation. As for the voltage drop 13.8 and 13.1 are both surface charges, not deep charges and the fact your battery only hits 13.1...

Yea, quite blurry zoomed in. Is that a MPPT controller/inverter under the panels? If so : Does it have an internal transfer switch? If so: For your AC input (assuming this is a 30amp rig IE only 1 AC leg not 2 like a 50amp rig) you take out your circuit box (don't be plugged in), locate your...

Okay gnubie guess it's time for me to tell my story about why I know so much about batteries. lol. Short version, 5 seasons of RV solar installs at a place that refurbishes and sells used batteries (I hate the practice personally). Year 1: I had to test and process all the used batteries while...

Hi there. Loved Wills videos love the forum love this question. So in 2016 I needed a DC amp clamp meter under $200. This is the only one I found on Amazon, seriously this was it and it took hours to find it...

Right away getting from 13.9v surface charge to 12.1v using a 50 watt load on that battery means your battery is crap. Sorry. Now need the history of that battery to understand why it's crap. How long was it stored, how often discharged to empty how many times was it thrown against a wall in...

Rchel, I'm sorry, I typed out a lot in that message- things that I learned over years, it's confusing meant to be taken in parts I guess.. Okay new plan and this one is dead simple and will also help tell you the condition of your battery but takes more time. Keep your inverter off, make sure...

800 watts, 4 6v lead acid batteries or 2 100-120ah lithium and you're set. Unless your laptop is a 1080 Asus Strix running 16 hours then do the lithium at 800w and you might be fine without some generator time. With the right charger you can trickle charge the vehicle battery (Bluesky 3000i...

Yep. Heated the controller up a bit and wasn't effient at all but it worked. Ran it for a week that way. Why? Why not it was working. Totally pointless but proves the C40 is near bullet proof as long as it isn't shot at.

200 amp ANL is all you need. 250 amp if you wanna. You split your positive line from battery to inverter and bolt in the ANL case. Easy-peesy and about $20 or so ($50 for the ceramic ones).

Welcome to the internets. Most of the Solar stuff is about cheap crap. Zamp isn't cheap, it's expensive. Is it worth the money? No. (personal review) I install solar on RVs and see many rigs "solar ready" by Zamp as some license deal and love it as Zamp at least uses 8 gauge wire from roof to...

Interesting picture.. Didn't watch whatever video you're referencing so don't know what the thing on the right is but you should have a 2/0 line running from inverter positive, straight to battery with the ANL inbetween. Will talks about a bolt on fuse which one is the ANL - here's a 300amp...

Any opinions? Was talking to one of our lithium battery distributors and he skewed the conversation to Carbon Foam AGMs, verified they were Firefly when I asked and I know nothing about them. Edit oops forget it there's a topic in a different subforum which is odd since these are lead acid...

Good question think it just refers to the design but me no know.

Okay downloaded the slightly Engrish maual. What you have is a solar charge controller/inverter hybrid. I've never installed one so good luck with the manual that can be downloaded from the ebay link.

This came back from the dead. We still sell Zamp and let's say in 2018 something came up with Zamps MAP pricing between the same product from two different sources and Zamp said one source had A cells while the other source had B cells. Nothing is indicated on a panel what 'class' the cells are...