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I'm happy to share, let me get back to you after sorting an issue out to make sure I still have a working config. I was rewiring my inverter to the AC panel instead of temporary outlets last night, and noticed the system shunt came back claiming 100% SoC. I need to check through the settings...

If you're searching for manuals, etc,. It's probably called a Multiplus. The Charger on a Multiplus converts AC Input to DC Battery power, to use it you have to connect to grid or a generator for an AC source. The solar charge controller handles converting the PV input to DC battery voltage.

I guess have fun with that, I'd be looking for good inverters that have been around for awhile and are good at handling large loads. By asking about hybrids you're immediately pushing yourself into buying sketchy shit that hasn't been around very long.

Considering a standard 4AWG wire isn't even rated for 80A, it's a good change. Are you wishing you had bought a higher quality inverter now? "oops"

You need two of them for split phase. EDIT: I can't read, he just got a second one.

I understand this is the official post I'm supposed to respond to, I need to file a formal complaint because signature solar showed up in the middle of the night, broke in my house, and stole my tv... What kind of support and help can you offer timselectric? I also bought two batteries from...

VictronConnect is newer. I think it'll do the job but I haven't used it. I thought I had read recently that they had improved VictronConnect to include series/parallel inverter configurations, which sounds way more advanced that just setting up the battery charger. I'd try to connect with...

EDITed again: I'm always confused about this 2x120V inverter and think it actually does split phase--but it's only passes it through!

They are pretty good at manipulating you and playing with your emotions, I have to give them extra points for that. The way they convinced you to keep it instead of initiate the paypal dispute was masterful. They should use this thread at the factory in China to help explain how to string...

When you're using power out of the batteries it pulls the voltage down below their normal voltage for the state of charge. Were you running stuff off the inverter when you saw it drop to 50.8? That's very normal for the voltage to drop back down fast if you're actually using it. I would...

My take on this (similar to others): You should only do this on a pure sine wave inverter, modified sine is a gamble, you don't know what's going to fail. I had an air purifier that lasted being turned on a single time on modified sine, and any kind of voltage conversion equipment is also...

I'll be happy to start representing the Fortress eFlex 5.4KW battery if you can get 4 of them delivered to my location for about $6-8K shipped (apparently I couldn't get two of them here for that). That is a really awesome battery bank that you have, I love it. It already can talk to Victron I...

Yep 3 pairs sounds about right. I have no use for an inverter that burns up so much power just to be turned on.

It seems like you're giving out really bad advice.

I've seen professionally installed outback systems with LiFePO4, but I'd assume that they typically needed some tuning when installed. Do you have the mate3 panel with your inverter to set charge voltages, set the low voltage shutoff value, and set the max charging amps (for the AC powered...

The real datasheet immediately explains it only inverts 1 x 120V--thank you. I would replace all my 240V split phase stuff (same as with my 48V Multiplus II), so you can actually run those loads when there is excess solar.

I don't know anything about solarks. My Victron MultiPlus II is usually 60.1hz or 59.9hz when I'm looking at my cloud monitoring. I don't let it bother me because I don't use AC clocks, but I don't know whether it's a "problem" unique to my installation or a common occurrence. As for solarks...

The cheap inverters I buy don't have this feature. If you want to make an argument that holds water for a microsecond, you could build this amazing system you speak of and educate us all.

https://www.santansolar.com/product/blemished-unused-first-solar-460w-solar-panel/ I'm guessing he's looking at these. The photos have the panel specs.

For my fuse/fuse holder, may not be accurate for yours. I just don't see any tape here. https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/sales_sheets/980035450-rev002-web.pdf https://d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/dimensioned_drawing/5112.png...

Don't even bother with server rack batteries unless you're going to 48V... When you realize that things aren't going to work out with your 12V server rack batteries make sure to post a thread about it so we can point out that you were warned.

I mean... Then who do I ask about the massage? Very disappointed about this response from signature solar.

Use the Victron MPPT calculator to check whether your proposed array design works for your MPPT.

I do have a DC clamp meter you can borrow... Did you get this one used off facebook/craigslist? I was tempted. EDIT: Nevermind--I see the used one I was watching is 24v and still for sale.

Seems like you're still trying to convey ideas that aren't consistent with the product installation instructions, when I read this... You connect the batteries before you turn it on, not the other way. My current understanding is that this isn't an inverter that is normally operated without...

DC/DC Charger that kicks on in the evening and charges battery A from battery B? Victron Orion maybe, I'm not sure what your battery bank voltages are?

I bought a Kaiweets HT206D last year for about $40, I use it to measure 50AMPs DC regularly, the measurements make sense compared to the rest of my system operation. I had a Klein before, but I gave it to a friend.

"Everything cuts off" Get more data, what is the battery voltage when it cuts off? I'm guessing that your inverter/charger is failing, I hope that you find a better answer than that. Are the batteries getting really hot while charging? I think those need a little space between them?

You haven't posted how your system is wired. No pictures, no descriptions. Look in your inverter manual for how large the fuse is supposed to be, don't say "ohhh but maybe it will surge a lot".

I'm not talking about EG4 inverters. Nice try little buddy.

I agree about the apparent rating of the lynx devices versus the 600A busbars... The 600A option seems way bigger!

The main reason I'm anti-signature solar is because they sell low quality inverters. I don't even want to buy equipment at the same store as you basically. I enjoyed the excellent skills that you displayed when you called them out. That'll really show them...

EDITed out this whole post because I was misunderstanding the issue being discussed and mixing it up with another issue... Shutting down because you're pushing the volts too high is a good thing! And awesome that you're testing out the fine points of getting it working on customer gear when I...

I've never used this SCC but seems like a lot of people love it. Great choice with a Reliable 48v inverter, they are actually pretty good for low idle current, this one should be even less than my 3000W. That's what I buy for less expensive inverters. They don't have great surge capacity, I...

I haven't stated that you need an internet connection. They also have lan based monitoring if that's what you're into. Or you don't need it at all! It seems like you're easily confused, stating that something is possible doesn't make it required. Still waiting to hear what the perfect inverter...

It's a product that implements it's own operating system and is fully capable of restricting the types of I/O devices and brands that are used. It's absolutely at fault for poor implementation and a bad reputation for data corruption that follows.

There are a lot of people that buy into solark before they realize how much it's going to burn just to be turned on.

I have never used My Midnite, thanks for pointing this out, that is definitely created for remote monitoring. The service was available when I was configuring my Classic 200, but I never finished a necessary firmware update to try using it myself. Newer hardware shouldn't need a firmware update...

If that's a normal thing to do, I would like to learn more. I didn't know that was a normal thing to do. I don't have a normally on grid and maybe I have some huge blind spots! So how long can you leave the batteries disconnected? Months, as long as it doesn't try to use the batteries?

Tell us more about this "shop". You paid money to have the lowest quality possible fuses and circuit breakers selected? They charged you for bulk wire and bulk wire lugs it looks like, did they give you the extra supplies after charging you for them? Or just put those bulk items on every bill?

Yesterday this AC started off a Honda 2000... Now it's barely able to run on a 4500. Very entertaining that you're doing things like stacking inverters but aren't able to take a voltage drop measurement.

This is awesome news! Do you have any idea what price point they're targeting, or which island they're based on? Thank you for the update--hoping it's underway by the time I'm ready to order a couple units later this year.

This is the first time I've ever seen Hawaii Rule 14H listed, makes me wonder if anybody has ever installed one here. HELCO is notoriously bad for accepting equipment, multi-year permitting delays, etc. But I don't care about grid tie, what's the idle consumption?

The inverter setting can also charge your batteries. Post your inverter settings screens, do you have the battery charger enabled and what are the settings? I never put my multiII in charge only mode, it isn't needed, but your settings may need an update.

48v isn't "in excess of your needs". A 48v MultiplusII costs less than a 12v one last I checked. It would allow smaller wire sizes, lower amp circuit breakers, and allow you to quadruple your solar array size in the future if you get the chance. Where is the downside, if you don't have major...

This solution sounds half baked. So if you need to get a different kind of storage for this to run reliably, but they don't inform you of that, what else did they not tell you? How is it going to fail next time? They're paying you to be the beta tester for this home brew immature solution right?

There are inverters on the market with buttons and displays like you're asking for, they're lower quality units with high idle losses. Am I missing anything? Is there one on the market that fits your description? Is this the dream inverter thread? WTF? If I'm wrong, share the details! Where do I...

Have you considered plugging the numbers into the MPPT calculator for your brand of choice? Victron has one, Midnite has one. More reliable than these comments imo, as long as you give them accurate temperature/spec data... Verify spec data was correctly read from panel labels for example...

Try calling the person who sold you the inverter then?

Interesting, I did read my datasheet and trying to piece together comparable details. Circuit breaker from before midnite solar existed (I have a GJ1 but I would need to go check if I have curve 1, 2 or 3)...