I have a 100 amp fuse that sometimes gets 80 amps. I have seen it at 130F on my thermal camera. Its an ANL fuse so not very comparable to a Class T. Im not sure which one would get warmer. Im sure someone here knows.
130F is pretty warm for sure.
Is this the base design? Is it going to be just like that with a single u clamp on a 2 inch pole?
How is the wind not going to move that? Not trying to be cynical. I have a very similar setup but with 2 masts. I am just wondering what you think of doing it the way you have.
I have been periodically changing the battery amp hours in the jk bms every once and a while.
When you change that setting it results in a guess of SOC. If you do that when its charging and the soc drift is going to cut off soon, it will charge to the BMS cell cut off voltage. and default to...
You NEED to make sure the batteries are the same or very similar voltage before you charge them.
You got 22v which is a good sign. Do you have a multi-meter?
It is almost a clone of a luxpower model but it IS different. Not sure what model or what different tho, sorry.
I am using
Luxpower Hybrid with the beta config
I just bought an EEL 280 box with the JK inverter BMS. I would go with JK all day because I have 1 in use and it has done an awesome job keeping everything balanced. I liked the JK Bms that I have used so much that I bought 2 spares for the future :)
I recently bought the EEL box with JK...
Should also happen automatically with proper
Nope not on a web browser, and it sucks. I use firefox and save the password. The android app logs in automatically
settings.
PV line was, on one end, appropriate,y connected to the breaker in the combiner box. The other end had the MC4 connector laying on the ground 3 inches away from the grounding rod.
I just upgraded my panels. I have 2 identical 3660 watt strings, wired exactly the same. They are positioned very close to each other.
I have noticed that PV2 is almost always about 50-60 watts less than PV1 even tho sometimes it has a higher voltage reading by 5-8v.
Does using 2 MPPTs...
And with 4) 2/0 and 2) 4/0 wires going to the buss bars, That junction box will probably have to be larger than you think.
Also the huge lugs for 4/0 can interfere with other cables or even might not even sit. When I used 4/0 i couldnt even put the cover on my buss bar. I see no specs on...
No, resting is ONLY required to get a GUESS on what voltage has to say about state of charge. That is the only thing a resting battery will help you with.
There is no reason to turn the solar on or off. When set correctly just let it do its thing.
That is what I was referring to. Sorry if my use of the word inverter threw you off. I should have said AIO mppt inputs.
Just so Im clear. Tell me if this works.
30 panels, 10 strings of 3 into a combiner box with ONE output. Lets call this 12,000 watts. We have 2 AIO's working in tandem...
Thats sucks....
I dont think it will.
The HIGH cell is the bad cell that raises in voltage first.
The balancer will steal from the cell that needs it in the long run, no matter when you start balancing.
My time on earth with solar has been limited. As such, I do not have any real earthly experience with Lf inverters.
I do note however, that being nice to inverters is always the best idea in this realm.
I bought my second xp for my nest not because I needed it, but because I was at 80...