Are we supposed to use this on our diy 16s prismatic cells under the cell bus bars?
Seems like a good idea?
The eve cell terminals are aluminum no?
Bus bars are typical tinned copper?
If you are using "EPS" mode, Solar will power the loads and the rest will charge the battery.
If you are in grid mode. Solar ONLY charges the battery and the grid handles the loads.
Yes. It all comes down to manipulating the On Grid EOD Voltage. This is the cutoff for the transition to and...
So disconnecting in sunlight is terrible? Or is it just frowned upon? How many disconnects matter? Cumulative of course. But is it .0015% per disconnect or .1%?
Any chance you know the reason?
I both find this odd and not surprising at the same time. Weird feeling. lol
Pretty much my exact setup.. before I got a real AIO
I still have to look at that horrible DC Home app for my batteries ...... I REALLLY wish i didnt.
I even thought about replacing the BMS in all 8 of my 50ah batteries to get rid of DC Home.
That would only be $800 or so... lol
I'm no dummy but it was more or less for me.
Only questions I had were answered by an eg4 rep right in this forum.
That said, OP is in the absolute right place.
Absolutely. That would be 248 VOC and the 18k could half that voltage with mppt and it still would work.
I have the same aptos 370 panels in a 9 series array and they are awesome!
I Got a 6s 20Ah lipo battery with one cell at 0. Should I charge it?
Or should I put it in parallel with a 6s and see what happens? Kidding. 6s is very different than 15-16s
The answer to that is yes. But not with my victon shunts SOC level. Only with the irrelevant 6000xp SOC level (due to 15S and lead acid charge profile its way off)
I am forced to automate by voltage and that has proved useless because of the flat discharge curve of lifepo4.
I didnt say or imply that. Its probably equal. The rack is simply some used, dug up, trimmed, sanded, painted 1-5/8ths fence posts with U clamps holding unistrut. I guess that was a lot of work prepping the posts. But its Green! Recycled and solar.
As I mentioned in another message, I would...
I see now. Im still thinking everything is fine. This could imply that you are a little further away from balanced tho.
Need to see what it looks like when the cells are charging and around 3.48
THIS. I purposefully stayed away from the 18KPV because inspectors dont look at settings. They might not be kind to OP and make them do an interconnect agreement. I didnt want any chance of ever back feeding. I fuggin hate the power co. mafia.
Maybe Im wrong, and overreacting.... Perhaps not
Anyone have any ideas? I think this would be the ultimate for those of us with Victron SCCs while also using the MPPTS on the 6000xp.
Is it a pipe dream to have all MPPTS on the same 3rd party monitor screen?
I know home assistant is an idea but, how to get both a Victron SCC and the eg4...
This is probably related to signal strength at the install location. I had the same problem and It forced me to upgrade my wifi router and then reconfigure the wifi.
Perhaps you can move your router closer?
You can also log into the 6000xp using Bluetooth but the range is limited.
What was your ambient temp when that was read? What amp draw? How long is the wire in question?
There is nothing to be said without knowing your wire gauge and draw.
But I suppose your question isnt "is this a problem" Its How hot is too hot.
My answer is anything over 15F over ambient temp...
Thanks for the testimonial.
I am confused tho. What do you use the chargeverter for? And why?
I am just wondering if it is something I should consider.
Its matters because that is the thing that will make your inverter unhappy. Say you are running a window ac, fridge, and start an electric burner.
window Ac could be 500 watts running 1200 watts peak for 2 seconds
Burner could be 2000 watts at 2300 peak for 5 seconds.
Fridge Could be 120 watts...
The way you stated this, it sounds like current limiting from the xp,s or one leg overloaded.
I haven't found resistive hearing elements to have a terribly high start up value.
Here is my experience that is similar...
I was happily humming along with my 1 xp. Then I added my 50 gal. water...
The pv conductor was connected to an ungrounded (at the time) combiner box. The other end was empty and 3 inches away from a grounding rod. The panels frames and rack were grounded but not near the rod. They were however connected to the rod via 8awg bare copper.