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Hi. Due to time constraints on my side I was unable to do any cell related testing

Sorry for the ignorance, but shouldn't fuses be placed as near as possible to the source / battery? The way you described, the circuit from the battery to the fuse is not protected , right?

@Nami ?? I'm about to buy BMSs for my long term living RV. How can one trust this types of batteries for an RV?? One cannot afford to be hung without any power so easily!! What have others done to prevent this??

Interesting topic. Another important aspect is the hability to be able to drill and tap a hole to join BMS cables

Thanks! Dammm I was not expecting that... Trying to learn as much as possible... why do you think that? "strange" form factor? other? Regards

Very interesting post!! Thanks for sharing! Please remember that what is in the spec sheet is 3 rods per side, which is ignored by most builders. That will allow a much spread load... Regards!

Thank you very much for your suggestions. I ended buying the ANENG AN870 (due to cost considerations) and the UNI-T UT210E. Again, thanks for your support

Setup: - 24v - 2 batteries (8x 280Ah) - max consumption 160A (from both batteries) Would you consider this 4 position rotary switch for your campervan? (to be used as disconnect, or battery switcher, if maintenance needs arise) I know that it's not the one in the forum documentation, but it...

Sorry for the slight thread highjack, but what would you recommend as a 24v LiFePO4 battery disconnect? Thanks in advance!

Also interested in this, would like to see what appears here with compression as described by EVE for their LF280k

Hi @Steve_S Is there any significant update on this? Thanks in advance

Thank you for your prompt reply! Was already open, but wanted to check your current preference. Much appreciated!

The load seems to spread in a very narrow band of the largest battery side. As the side wall is very thin, I wouldn't be very happy with this setup - but that's me... Also EVE schematics show 3 rods each side for a reason... I would suspect load spread... Hope the best for you, but would...

Regarding the fridge, I'm in the same boat as you. I've decided for a 230v AC instead of a DC one. Reasoning: the price difference will allow an extra one if this one goes bad, and extra funds for upgrading the electrical side. Also if you look closely to both spec sheets (AC one and DC one)...

@FilterGuy , I understand that you've been doing a path from breakers to fuses... do you have any advice on this particular situation? Reducing wire size and fuse due to real needs, even if equipments handle a lot more... Thanks in advance!

Nice!!! Could you please send a picture of the battery? Thanks

Trully inspiring! Thanks for the photo! Could you please post a couple more pics? Thanks in advance!

How many cells to move 4,7mm ??

Hi all. I need some insights! I'm building a system around a 24v 5000kVA Multiplus II - but this is applicable to any situation, I guess. Instructions state to use a 400A fuse and 2x50mm2 cables (under 5 meters) to battery (LiFePo4 24v 280Ah , EVE LF280k based, with a JK 200A BMS) Spec sheet...

Ahhhhh!I (in a fixed fixture) I thought that if one cell makes (let's say) 100kgf after expansion in a single cell configuration, then 2 cells in the same type of fixture would produce 200kgf... What you are saying is that 2, or n cells, will always produce 100kgf, right? I'd love to read some...

I'm quite interested in your setup, how it's doing, and latitudes you're using it, as I'm buying stuff to do something similar. I've got 1200w solar (though only 800w permanent as the third panel will be retractable), same(ish) battery size also at 24v, and a 5000w Multiplus II. Main consumers...

Same boat as you! Got a B2A8S20P, need a second one, should I go with the B2A24S20P or choose a different brand? Thanks for all your input!

If those are 2 12v batteries with 4 cells each, 230Ah, why not buy 8 extra 230Ah cells (easily available), and 2 BMS plus 2 boxes and 2 class T fuses and make 2 24v DIY batteries? Basically you would end up with 2 quite similar batteries Note: first evaluate very carefully the current...

Damm... I was about to buy JK for BMSs!! @Nami , is this after sales scenario true? Regards

Link: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Luyuan-DIY-Battery-Box-Case-set_1600872674249.html Price: 248 USD, DDT DDP Why call it cheap? Compared to other solutions (EEL, Seplos, ...) it's around half the price Edited: DDT should have been DDP

In your opinion, from the reliability / working point of view, which is the difference between both protocols? What are the up and downsides? Thanks!

Any idea on shipping costs for these? Thanks

> we're looking to keep the cells from expanding That may be you goal, but not what is specified in the EVE spec sheet for the tests - that can be found in this forum (sorry, I'm in the phone right now so can't easily make the search).

Hi Steve! Would you consider this positioning for a battery box in a vehicle environment? My thoughts are around heavy weight (cells), micro movement (expansion due to different SOC) and vibration destroying the silicone heating pad, with all the bad that could arise from that. Regards

(thought I've seen lots of builds with 6mm, and I haven't seen anyone complaining)