ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
If you can, yes.
wzrelb pure sine wave 5000w 24v power inverte
- Thread starter cojonuo1
- Start date
Ok, so that I understand, I can either keep what I have and get a 12v inverter or upgrade my solar panel to one that has at least 40v charging output ? I am also concerned that I might have bought a controller that is too small.
| Brand | Renogy |
| Voltage | 24 Volts |
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
Just buy one more solar panel like the one you have. You will probably want more power in the future and this idea would help. 2, 21v VOC panels in series would be plenty of voltage for a 24v setup
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Or you could add a second identical (or highly similar) panel to your first and place it in series. You would then have 2X "12V" panels in series producing a "24V" array suitable for your 24V battery.
The controller may be too small.
At 24V, If it is 10A, it can handle about 280W. If 20A, 560W. The manual should indicate max wattage for a given battery voltage.
Thank you. I am now kicking myself for returning the other one! So is there a special plug to bridge the two together? Not sure that both terminals will fit in controller ports. They are pretty small holes.
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
You would never have any doubled up connections with a series panel setup. Look up how that is wired. One of the panels neg would be going to the other panels POS. You could probably do this with the existing MC4 connector on the panels.
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Most panels come with MC4 connectors and can be "chained" in series. You would wire the panels using the same technique as your battery - panel #1 (-) to the controller, panel #1 (+) to panel #2 (-) and panel #2 (+) to controller.
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
In summary:
The above two systems should allow your system to function normally; however, it may not meet your needs. I can say with reasonable confidence that if you do get about 400W of solar on the system, and you get unshaded sun on the panels from 9a-3pm, you will likely be able to at least feed your inverter the power it needs to stay on 24/7. The amount of loads you can run may be limited.
- Individually charge your 12V batteries to full with a 12V battery charger.
- Provide a 24V array suitable for charging your battery, either 2X "12V" panels in series or a single "24V" panel like the 390W you linked.
- Ensure all devices are connected properly.
The above two systems should allow your system to function normally; however, it may not meet your needs. I can say with reasonable confidence that if you do get about 400W of solar on the system, and you get unshaded sun on the panels from 9a-3pm, you will likely be able to at least feed your inverter the power it needs to stay on 24/7. The amount of loads you can run may be limited.
Still not completely sure on how to connect the 2 batteries together and where the controller terminals go. I have the cable from the positive inverter terminal going to the 2nd battery positive, bridged the negative from the 1st battery to the 2nd battery positive, then the negative from the 2nd battery to the converter negative. The controller is connected to just the 1st battery's + & - , which I understand is incorrect? But when I try putting the positive of the controller to the unbridged positive of the 2nd battery and the same to the unbridged necative of the 1st battery the controller battery icon flashes as if it is incorrectly connected.
I was a little confused with this as they both have a positive and a negative plug. I guess the 1st panel negative stays unplugged?
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Per the image @Mattb4 posted:
You wire them in series for 24V.
All your inverter/charger connections go on the two circled connections.
The solar charger may need to be configured to operate at 24V and is objecting because it's configured for 12V.
You are setting yourself up for additional failure because you're assuming you can run the bug zapper with a modified setup. Have you confirmed this?
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
same concept as batteries:
the circled terminals represent the leads you would connect to the controller's input.
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
No, first panel negative to charge controller, first panel positive to negative of second panel, positive of second panel to charge controller.
Could be that it is incorrectly connected with polarity reversed. Or it might be that the voltage from the batteries in series is too low because you only charged one while draining from two. Follow the advice to individually charge each battery. You can even do this with your present setup from the SCC. if wired to one battery at a time over the next few days (no other thing wired to the battery!!) make sure your SCC is set properly for lithium batteries.
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
This is what I think may have happened.
sunshine_eggo
Happy Breffast!
Let's try this:
Thank you so much guys for all the feedback. So after reviewing all the threads on here, the culprit was the controller. The settings were off. I changed the volts to 24 and the battery setting to lithium and the flashing on the controller went away. Now the indicator is showing low charge on battery which would be correct since it was not wired correctly. I guess now I can see how long it would take for both batteries to get a full charge. Here are the readings after the correction...
They are only 50ah each
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
You NEED to make sure the batteries are the same or very similar voltage before you charge them.
You got 22v which is a good sign. Do you have a multi-meter?
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
They are fine. you have about 1200 watt hours, You could mostly charge that (80%) on a good sunny day with 2 100 watt panels.
They are both the same size and type
ScrotpusGobbleBottom
Corn Pop was a bad dude.
VOLTAGE .. size and type has nothing to do with current voltage or general health.
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