diy solar

diy solar

Planning a Sol Ark 15k system for our ranch, after solar company went bust.

JurassicRanch

New Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2024
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23
Location
Stanfield
Background: We got started with a now known to be fly-by-night solar company that has since gone out of business, we have 48 x 240w panels mounted on a vehicle awning which is 15 feet from the house, and 5 ft from the shop, none of them are wired to anything, cables are just swinging in the breeze. Company was supposed to be calling to dicuss what inverters, and other gear we wanted to continue with, when they blew up. So we have a fully structurally built solar array collecting dust and bird droppings.

I am thinking to order in a Sol Ark 15K, and start doing it myself, we are in a very rural area of arizona, to the west my nearest neighbor is 60 miles away, to the north, 6-7 miles, a few closer neighbors on the other side. Middle of nowhere, no city ordinances, etc...

The problem i am trying to figure out how to build my way out of, is this po dunk power company when the property was first setup, put a meter/breaker box on a power pole that only holds 3 x double breakers, and they are all in use. 1 feeds the house, 1 feeds the Well pump which is off across the property, and 1 feeds the shop building. The shop buildings breaker box is full, actually my Atlas 9KBP vehicle lift and the A/C unit are sharing a set of breakers, not proper i know, but the tiny little box the previous owner installed in the building is maxxed out, i just make sure the Shop A/C isnt running when we go to raise the lift, lowering it is just a hydraulic release and doesn't use any power.

The goal is to have the Sol Ark zero the power bill, our power company out here has a net metering program but they have a super strict lift of hardware you are forced to use, most of which is ancient and not up to date, they only accept a few applications a month, the rest roll over and right now that waiting list just to get approved to install a net metering system, is supposedly 2 years out, so my plan is to not even involve them, and just run the Sol Ark in zero bill mode, rather than trying to push power back to the grid. The power company also has a minimum bill amount of like 75 bucks, meaning if you use zero power, you still have 75 bucks in stupidity fees.

I would like to power everything off the sol ark, but at minimum the house and the well. No batteries at the moment, however im going for the Sol Ark so i dont need them initially, but can add them later on. I also have a Predator 9500 watt inverter generator for backup, having somewhere to just plug it in centrally would also be nice, but right now we have a stack of 50 and 100 ft extension cords we string out whenever po dunk power incorporated blows something up and dumps us without power for 6 hours at a time, they don't understand maintenance or upgrades apparently, several times now poles have literally fallen apart because they were so old they just began disintegrating until they fell down.

PS: IF there is someone also in AZ who is willing to help us with this, im open to it, and would pay for the help, but im done talking to all these companies that want to sell me a 30 year plan, financed at XYZ rates, i have money to do it, and I won't be talking to any more of those dumb sales people again.
 
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The problem i am trying to figure out how to build my way out of, is this po dunk power company when the property was first setup, put a meter/breaker box on a power pole that only holds 3 x double breakers, and they are all in use. 1 feeds the house, 1 feeds the Well pump which is off across the property, and 1 feeds the shop building. ...
This is not necessarily a problem if you use this box to feed The AC in of the Sol Ark and than distribute to the 3 load centers. However you may run into insufficient capacity to handle your loads. Your electrician and you will have to determine your loading needs. Think of this Utility box as a shut off point and power source for a downstream setup.
 
right but doesn't that mean i need to re-route the feeds to the shop, and the well, into a different breaker box?
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right but doesn't that mean i need to re-route the feeds to the shop, and the well, into a different breaker box?
Yes you would need to remove the feeds for the 3 load centers (House, well, shop) from that initial panel. It just becomes your main feed/power supply to AIO if used in that fashion and grid shutoff for your place. Likely you can set a adjacent place for mounting the new equipment so the present wires will long enough (might have to shorten them a bit depending on items between old panel and the new one.)
 
So then another question, Suppose i put in the 15K Sol Ark, with the grid connected to it, but setup NOT to push power back to the grid, just run myself on the solar power, and use grid only when Solar is insufficient.

If the A/C, & the well pump decide to kick in at the same time, while someone is also cooking on the stove, and i happen to strike up my welder, and we somehow manage to draw more than 15Kw, is the Sol Ark able to pass thru grid power beyond that 15K of its own rating, or would this cause an overload with bad results?
 
If the A/C, & the well pump decide to kick in at the same time, while someone is also cooking on the stove, and i happen to strike up my welder, and we somehow manage to draw more than 15Kw, is the Sol Ark able to pass thru grid power beyond that 15K of its own rating, or would this cause an overload with bad results?
If grid Connected and setup correctly you can pass through enough Grid to make up any difference the inverter can’t handle.
 
In the process you may need to install service panels with more capacity for breakers. There are always half slot breakers that you could use to expand but if you are rewiring it is just easier to install a breaker box with the capacity your need. Also bring some of those connections up to code on their own breakers for safety reasons and ease of maintenance in the future. As mentioned, the biggest limitation might be the size of the main breaker and a load analysis will tell you if that is enough. If I understand you are not adding loads, just trying to serve those loads with solar when the sun is shining.
 
that would definitely be the goal.

Priorities are:
1. Have backup power because we are super rural, and it takes a few hours just to get boots on the ground to start fixing stuff during an outage.
2. Reduce the power bill, but without feeding back into the grid, as that requires being accepted into their solar program which carries ridiculous strings, they also charge a higher per KW rate to solar customers.
 
If I understand you are not adding loads, just trying to serve those loads with solar when the sun is shining.

EXACTLY! I really wish there was someone i could just pay to come out and help me with this, literally every solar company i talk to, wants to rip me for 30,000, or wants me to pay them for the solar power as a pseudo power company, what happened to the days of finding an electrician who knows WTF they are doing and hiring them to come help do stuff.
 
I really wish there was someone i could just pay to come out and help me with this,
If you are close to Phoenix you might find an electrician that will work for time and materials. They might need a minimum of hours per day but sometimes that is how I get skilled workers.
 
I tried that route once or twice, but the guys i found knew nothing about solar some how... If anyone reading this is within driving range, the offer stands, the project is in 85139.
 
once you run the grid through the Sol-Ark you are grid tied even if your not selling back power. I suspect from my previous experience that once your bill drops significantly for three straight months they are going to show up for an inspection.
 
once you run the grid through the Sol-Ark you are grid tied even if your not selling back power. I suspect from my previous experience that once your bill drops significantly for three straight months they are going to show up for an inspection.
Yup they usually do..
 
The point is i don't want to sign their stupid net metering BS, when you do the price per KW jumps up to like $2.50, their headquarters got burned to the ground years back, with the slimy crap they pull, i am not surprised it happened. They are welcome to do a safety inspection, but if they try to force me to sign that crap the Sherrifs Dept will be escorting them off the property, i have enough land to build 5 more identical arrays without hindering my plans for horse activities, etc... If they want to start a problem, ill just build more, and then order them to remove the meter entirely.
 
The point is i don't want to sign their stupid net metering BS, when you do the price per KW jumps up to like $2.50, their headquarters got burned to the ground years back, with the slimy crap they pull, i am not surprised it happened. They are welcome to do a safety inspection, but if they try to force me to sign that crap the Sherrifs Dept will be escorting them off the property, i have enough land to build 5 more identical arrays without hindering my plans for horse activities, etc... If they want to start a problem, ill just build more, and then order them to remove the meter entirely.
Basically what happened with me.
When I first started my system I didn’t have an agreement.
I still don’t.

When my usage began to drop they sent someone out to find out why.
He sees panels in yard and commenced to tell me I can’t do this and that.
Told him to get off my property and take his meter with him.
He huffed and puffed but left the meter and went on his own way.
I thought maybe he would get the county to come out next to try to harass me but I already had it inspected so I guess he just went away mad.
That was 2 years ago.
Haven’t seen them since..
 
Here are some of my thoughts:

First, how many amps do the service entrance lines provide in total?

Second, the Sol-Ark 15K can accept 200 amp utility service directly into the inverter. 4/0 cable to be used.

You could wire your mains after the meter to the Sol-Ark 15K, then output the Sol-Ark to a new panel that can handle a breaker for the SHOP, HOUSE and WELL panels. Say you have 200 amp entrance service. That service goes to the Sol-Ark 15K. The output from the Sol-Ark goes to a panel with say a 100 amp breaker to the house panel which is now a sub-panel, a 100 amp breaker to the shop panel which is now a sub-panel and a 50 amp breaker or same as existing breaker to the well box.

This way you locate the Sol-Ark optimally, re-route the service entrance mains after the meter to the Sol-Ark in the air or underground. then output the Sol-Ark to the new panel located right near the Sol-Ark and then run the new circuits to the HOUSE and SHOP in the ground or air as the case may be.

As for a generator, if you are in the middle of nowhere, I would advise a 20-30kW liquid cooled diesel gen set. Off road fuel will save money and it will run in all conditions until long past your demise. And cost effective.

Now for your existing solar panels, in order to connect them to the Sol-Ark, you will be best served by connecting as follows:

Create 4 strings of 12 panels each in series. You size panels most likely have a Voc of 37 volts. 12 panels in series will result in about 444 volts, but only about 7-8 amps.

Take 2 of the strings and combine them in parallel using a combiner box. This will result in a Voc of about 444 volts and an Imp of about 16 amps.

This will use 24 panels. Install into the first MPPT input of the Sol-Ark

Repeat this again with the remaining 24 panels and install into the second MPPT input of the Sol-Ark.

You will only need to run solar PV wire, 10 awg to the combiner box from the panels. At the combiner box, install a solar fuse of 25 amps on the PV+ and PV- wires and a high voltage double pole DC breaker, 600 volts and 25 amps. For both strings then, your combine box would have a total of 4 fuses and 2 breakers. Output this to a double pole nema 3R disconnect switch and connect the PV+ wire across the switch. Output from the switch using 10 awg THHN/YHWN/MTW insulated wire in PVC conduit to the Sol-Ark location.

If you can get this far, then you can draw it all out, post here the design and distances, get some feed back on grounding, build out, etc.

If its too much, then look to hire a solar engineer where you can follow the plan and do the build out or if necessary, hire an experienced electrician.
 
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The shadow you see that appears inside or under the outline of the Solar Array is actually the stack of square tubing that became the awning, google maps has not rescanned the area since the awning was actually erected and welded togeather, just in case there was a question what that shadow/structure was. The solar awning when completed will be parking for some of our vehicles, currently the solar panel cords are all hanging down so we don't park under it for that reason.

I do not presently have any cables, combiner boxes, or other hardware, with the exception of 2 spare solar panels in case a panel were to fail or be damaged. So I will need to get all that together, still have not found an electrician, hoping i dont end up having to wing this all myself.
 
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So I will need to get all that together, still have not found an electrician, hoping i dont end up having to wing this all myself.
It’s not as bad as you might think.
I did mine.
Takes time but you also know it’s done right in the end.
 
AWNING DEFINITION: a sheet of canvas or other material stretched on a frame and used to keep the sun or rain off a storefront, window, doorway, or deck.

When you say awning, do you mean the ground mount the panels are attached to?
 
hopefully, but i may be counting on all of you to tell me what all gear, down to exact items, i need to buy to make this work.
When i said i live on the far end of nowhere, this is what i meant...
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