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Safe cheap transfer switching with LVD in small system

SWSL

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Joined
Apr 15, 2023
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47
Location
US/Mexico
Hi. I built/am improving a small system with 12V 230ah LFE / 2000 watt Voltworks PSW inverter/ Victron smart 15A charger/ Victron Smartsolar 75/15 SCC and only 100 watts panel (will add more eventually) Also I have a $40 shunt that is yet to be installed.

I have a few goals with this in order of priority:
1) power my fridge and some electronics during frequent power outages in Mexico
2) condition power to fridge to get voltage up in a double conversion UPS sorta way
3) make use of any solar I'm capturing

Battery runs for maybe 35 hours by itself, and since I don't have much solar panel, it will not keep up if the power is out for days, depends on the solar gain and amount of time grid is down. Last hurricane power was out for 3 days but normally it's a half day or so.

I have been using the basic setup for a few months to run the fridge and not had issues except once when I was fiddling with it. Won't get into that.
Problem is - I'm leaving for a couple months later this summer. I would like to leave this new system in the loop but am concerned about depending 100% on the battery + inverter. For one thing, the inverter will not come back on automatically if battery drains low enough to trigger it's fixed 11v disconnect. That 11v could be under fridge motor startup before battery was actually too drained. I could end up in worse trouble if power goes off after a big storm, low solar and the fridge draws it down until inverter disconnects then nothing even when grid is back.

I saw the MOES ATS and thought it could be perfect but looking harder I see that not only could I end up with the inverter off situation but also the chance of back-feeding and burning out my inverter. And it's a device that is reported to fail often enough.

So I looking at a simpler but safer transfer switch that detects V in the primary source and goes to secondary source (grid) if primary is down. I have not looked hard yet, but something like this: Mini Dual Power Automatic Transfer Switches

That should more safely keep me on the inverter unless and until battery gets low. At that point, either due to a failed (or shut down) inverter, BMS or drained battery it will go to grid. Assuming the ATS does not fail, I will have the grid connected no matter what happens to my battery system...I think. If the battery/inverter system is out AND the grid is down, need to verify that it will connect to the grid once that's back up.

Then, to avoid having the system drain my battery down to the inverter's LVD nor depend on the BMS LVD (which would also leave the inverter off ) I am thinking to manage a relay that interrupts after the inverter to drop out the major load on the battery but keep the inverter on with battery power. Yes it will slowly drain the battery but much slower, giving time for power to come back on or the sun to bring up the battery.

So, I install a relay that can close a 20 amp AC circuit with 12v on actuator side. NO. Dime a dozen, right? I could then trigger that off the load output from my Victron SCC giving me an adjustable LVD after the inverter but before the ATS. I could also trigger other relays with same signal, such as an NC from grid to ATS if that made any sense as a failsafe.

Anybody see a problem with this ? It's a cheap solution and seems least likely to leave me without power once the grid is up, won't ever back-feed my inverter (correct?) nor depend on the reliablity of something complex like the MOES. I feel far better trusting my LVD to Victron and managing the actual amps with a dumb relay feeding a fairly dumb ATS.

Does that ATS look good or which do you guys like without getting spendy ? Max current is 20amps though it will actually operate <10. Low budget system or I would have just bought a multiplus.

Thanks
-
 
make use of any solar I'm capturing
You need at least 400-600W of panels to
power my fridge and some electronics during frequent power outages in Mexico
….and 230Ah @ 12V nominal is maybe one day of a typical newer residential fridge.
So I looking at a simpler but safer transfer switch that detects V in the primary source and goes to secondary source (grid) if primary is down. I have not looked hard yet, but something like this: Mini Dual Power Automatic Transfer Switches
Does that ATS look good or which do you guys like without getting spendy ? Max current is 20amps though it will actually operate <10. Low budget system or I would have just bought a multiplus.
For $38 buy it and rest it.

First things first though you need to add 600W of panels minimum imho. Eliminate the possibility of going dead.
Battery runs for maybe 35 hours by itself
At 50% ‘headroom’ that’s basically 24hours.

In a perfect world all you need is one more battery and more panels.
 
Hi. Thanks for you input and overview of my system. I probably explained more than necessary and derailed the answer focus.

I do understand that the usual system design goal is to have adequate input to indefinitely sustain a system. That's what I did for my van in the US.

In this case, I have "shore power" 95% of the time and typically lose it for less than 6 hours. 15 hours is outside range in a typical year. It's not cost-effective so far to add panels up to sustainable level. A multi-day emergency ( every 5 years) can be dealt with in other ways. I can boost charge my battery with the alternator- especially when low. There are generators that will be running near me I can charge from. The energy efficient refrigerator (12 cf) can be off at night.

Not to disrespect your excellent advice, but there can be different goals- especially for a backup and/or power conditioning system that reduce the "buy-in" cost. It doesn't have to be all or nothing. Mainly I can use my fridge and run my power tools to keep working even on afternoons the power is out. That happens.

My current focus is on the transfer switching and how to make it work safely and cheaply for a "usually on inverter" system. By default, I'm hearing that it sounds like a reasonable plan to get a more reliable MOES type switching by triggering a relay before an AC detectng transfer SW by using the SCC .
And gotcha - I can try the $40 switch and if it fails, go for a name brand one. Maybe cheaper to buy the name brand first but maybe the cheap ones last. Mostly just looking to make sure there are no big concerns in this approach. I was about to buy the Moes until I read about the back-feed concerns here and read ALL the reviews.
 
I use one of those electromechanical switches similar to the one in the link above but it's the standard size one. Cost about $14 and works as designed.
 
i just use an adjustable power supply set for 12.5V, which prevents battery from getting discharged more than about 15%. no transfer switch needed
 
I'm off-grid, and I use westinghouse propane gens ... these are auto-start/auto-choke, and have an ATS smart port built in. Couple that gen (various models) with the westinghouse ATS box (sold separately), and you have automatic ATS power when the monitored power source goes offline. As we are off-grid, and didn't need grid ATS operation, we added an inexpensive digital timer power box into the mix, and the gen now starts on a periodic schedule.

This has worked to keep our inverter/battery-bank full, and things humming along, while we were on vacation ... this was like a whole-house Generac backup gen & ATS solution, at a fraction of the Generac infrastructure, complexity, and cost.

The advantage to the westinghouse ATS box is that it is all engineered for you, and works with the westinghouse gens ... no head-scratching involved. All off-the-shelf components (gen, ats box, digital timer) ...

Perhaps this might fit into your scenario in some fashion, as I couldn't fully understand all the requirements ...

Hope this helps ...
 
I use one of those electromechanical switches similar to the one in the link above but it's the standard size one. Cost about $14 and works as designed.
Got a link or description I can chase down? I like $14 over $40 if it's worked for you. I should add that line power here is 115V. Seems there are more inexpensive 220V than 110V on the market.
 
I'm off-grid, and I use westinghouse propane gens ... these are auto-start/auto-choke, and have an ATS smart port built in. Couple that gen (various models) with the westinghouse ATS box (sold separately), and you have automatic ATS power when the monitored power source goes offline. As we are off-grid, and didn't need grid ATS operation, we added an inexpensive digital timer power box into the mix, and the gen now starts on a periodic schedule.

This has worked to keep our inverter/battery-bank full, and things humming along, while we were on vacation ... this was like a whole-house Generac backup gen & ATS solution, at a fraction of the Generac infrastructure, complexity, and cost.

The advantage to the westinghouse ATS box is that it is all engineered for you, and works with the westinghouse gens ... no head-scratching involved. All off-the-shelf components (gen, ats box, digital timer) ...

Perhaps this might fit into your scenario in some fashion, as I couldn't fully understand all the requirements ...

Hope this helps ...
Thanks. $350 is a little out of range for me but probably worth it for reliability and interface with your gen.
Cheers
 
Another question- any preference for electronic vs mechanical contactors? Seems like electronic makes a lot of heat but tends to last longer? And uses less power to close? This is for the SCC managed LVD relay that I'm going to put before the transfer switch.

Plan is- I will set my load disconnect /reconnect voltage on the Victron SCC app and then it cuts power from inverter to the ATS, which then goes over to "shore power". I think it's a better approach than depending on a Battery V triggered transfer switch like the Moes. That way, low battery OR inverter down will both effect a switch over.
 
Great, thanks. I was depending on Amazon to sort out the junk products. Harder to tell on Ebay. Concern is buying "too good to be true" products cheating with undersized contacts and getting away with it on ebay. What brand has worked for you?
If it has a brand name it must be on a sticker on the back side which is inaccessible right now. I think all of them that look alike and have the same specs are probably the same. I have taken it apart to examine the inner workings and it seems like a pretty simple and solid design.
 
If it has a brand name it must be on a sticker on the back side which is inaccessible right now. I think all of them that look alike and have the same specs are probably the same. I have taken it apart to examine the inner workings and it seems like a pretty simple and solid design.
Gotcha. Thanks!
 
Ooof. Don't think I'd rely on that. Relying on Amazon to not sell junk makes for a poor quality control system.
Ebay is worse ! Zero reviews is not better! I don't rely on Amazon per se, I rely on being able to sort through feedback. There are ways to sort and get past the fake reviews.

If you depend on a seller's Ebay rating (vs the actual product listing on Amazon), then you want to be sure that they have a high sales count at 99-100%, that they are mostly selling what you are buying. A clothing or plastic crap seller who also lists some electronics their brother brought home from the reject bin now and then will have a 98% rating and you won't find any feedback for that item. Also on Ebay there's no going back later to report that product burned out the day after you posted a positive seller review.
Basically, the option online is sorting through reviews on Amazon or buying blind on Ebay. Um, what's worse?

There is no doubt that I can pay 5x for a name brand (chinese-made) object with good quality control. On the other hand, there are good off-brands. Example: I need a 200 amp DC breaker. There are ones on Amazon for $10 that I won't trust no matter the reviews. I can also buy Bussman for $50, Blue Sea (rebadged Bussman) for $80. But in-between, people have good experience with T Tocas, Will recommends them and that's $30. The one I will buy. I don't know which brands for ATS are reliable (that's why I'm asking) but a Westinghouse ATS for $350 is too much while the $10 one on Ebay with a seller rating of 1 is the other end.

cheers
 
i just use an adjustable power supply set for 12.5V, which prevents battery from getting discharged more than about 15%. no transfer switch needed
Same here. Except I have a smart charger that will do a better job. That is the bulk of my charging power. Solar is supplemental.

Scenario is: Power goes off while away and runs through battery, hitting LVD of Inverter, which switches off. Power then comes back on and fridge was fine off for a few hours or even a day but now no power gets to it even after battery charges back up. Two months later, return to an ugly mess all that expensive freezer food gone.
A transfer switch in the loop just goes over to shorepower and fridge is running off grid until batteries back up. At the least, I have not lost my fridge due to having it on the inverter. It's a "inverter if it's good, back to grid otherwise" setup.

Or Inverter just fails. Or charger fails. Or BMS shuts down battery due to a cell going bad, I don't know. But I've got grid to the fridge.

Adding a simple 12v coil/110V AC relay increases the chance that the inverter won't switch off due to batt drain. Set it for 12.5 or so.
 
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